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Topics - wamille

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46
All Grain Brewing / First Time Lagering This Weekend
« on: May 23, 2011, 11:20:47 PM »
I'm going to brew a lager for the first time this weekend.  How long is the typical fermentation time... guessing that depends on the ABV, right?  How long should the beer condition?  I'm thinking about making a beer with an ABV around 7%.  Also, I was thinking about hopping the heck out of it.  This is a science project more than anything else.  Any advice or insights would be appreciated.

47
All Grain Brewing / Infusion v. Step-mashing
« on: May 09, 2011, 06:16:53 AM »
If a recipe calls for a mash temperature of 156F in an infusion mash, but one were to use a step mash method whereby the temperature was slowly raised over the course of two hours from approximately 120F to 164F, would one still attain the same results?  The majority of the mash temperature was at 150F with the last 30 minutes or so slowly raised to 164F.  I'm guessing you wouldn't have the same results as the lower temps early on would convert a lot of the starches to highly fermentable sugars leaving near no dextrinous sugars... my limited understanding of the conversion process.  Any enlightened responses would be appreciated.

48
Kegging and Bottling / Pliny Clone Kegged in Two Separate Kegs
« on: May 01, 2011, 10:19:36 PM »
I made 10 gallons of a Pliny the Elder clone a couple months ago.  I filled two 5-gallon Cornelius kegs.  One is already gone... and it was quite tasty.  However, I just cracked the other one open... maybe I had a soapy glass, but the beer tasted soapy.  I usually rinse the keg out first.  Then I wash it with a brush and dishwashing liquid.  I then rinse it again, and add boiling water and seal it up for a couple days.  Then I add iodaphor to the five gallons of water inside (the previously boiling water that's cooled).  Then I drain prior to use and rinse again. I undo the gas and beer ports... and tubes... and clean them as well.  I think I did everything right.  I'm just wondering if anyone might be able to tell me why my beer tastes soapy now?  I have had the second keg of Pliny setting in the fridge for over a month now.  Perhaps I drank a big taste of yeast at the bottom of the keg?  But I've never heard that yeast tastes soapy.  Cheers, Bill

And by the way... HUUUUUUAHHHHHHHHHH... Bin Laden bit it!!!!

49
Beer Recipes / Northwest Hop Pilsner
« on: April 24, 2011, 06:01:10 PM »
Has anyone ever tried to make a northwest hop Pilsner?  I'm getting ready to make one soon, but figured I'd solicit any pitfalls/issues that might be involved.  I typically put about 8 oz of hops in my 5-gallon batches.

50
Ingredients / Does Gypsum Addition Help Hop Aroma/Flavors?
« on: April 16, 2011, 05:19:15 AM »
We just finished brewing one metric ton of an American style IPA here in lovely South Korea just over a month ago. It's affectionately called Jirisan Moon Bear IPA in honor of a Korean mountain and the native bear that inhabits that area.  We added a total of 15 pounds of hops for the boil (2 lbs Chinook (60 minutes); 4 lbs Centennial/3 lbs Cascade (15 minutes); and 2 lbs Centennial/4 lbs (flameout)).  We also dry hopped 3 lbs total of Cascade and Centennial.  I would've thought this enough to give a really nice hop flavor/aroma.  The hop bitterness was surely there, but no great floral/citrusy flavor or aroma.  I was wondering if adding gypsum to the mash water next time would help accentuate the hop flavor and aroma.  I must note that the grain bill on this one was modified due to a lack of crystal malt... the local brewers substituted a small amount of dark malt to achieve the color we wanted without consulting us if that were a good idea.  This might also have taken away a bit of the hop flavor/aroma?  The dark malt was mashed the entire 60 minutes also.  Anyway, enlightened thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Bill

51
Beer Recipes / Sweetwater IPA Clone... anyone have a good recipe?
« on: April 15, 2011, 04:42:05 AM »
One of my favorite IPA's is Sweetwater's version.  I've looked all over the internet for a cloned recipe - found one.  But I'm not sure if it's close.  The guy said he used the following grain bill... and all Simcoe hops:

10.5 lbs 2 row
1 lb Munich
.5 lbs Wheat
.5 lbs Cyrstal 80

Anyone wanna throw in on this one?  I've got all the grain to make this one, but want to have a better feeling about it.

Cheers,
Bill

52
All Grain Brewing / Is This A Problem?
« on: April 09, 2011, 02:17:52 AM »
I developed a pretty bad cold shortly after brewing yesterday.  I'm truly whooped - no energy, beat, tired.  I had finished the boil and was cooling the wort before the cold hit me hard.  My wort now sits quietly in my fridge along with my yeast starter.  I really just don't have the energy to deal with it now.  Are there any concerns if I let the wort set in the fridge for a day or two before pitching my yeast? 

53
All Grain Brewing / IPA question
« on: April 02, 2011, 06:42:35 AM »
Folks,
We recently brewed our first commerical IPA in Korea... and dry-hopped it too.  I got a chance to taste it Wednesday.  The beer was supposed to taste like Sierra Nevada's Celebration Ale, however, in my opinion, tasted very similar to Avery's DuganA - which I do not like.  The beer was supposed to have a grain bill of 88% 2-row and 12% Crystal 40L.  However, the local brewers did not have the Crystal malt and used some dark malt instead to give the beer it's color... perhaps 10 lbs (I can't remember what the exact grain bill was in pounds for the entire beer).  I looked up Avery's website and saw that their DuganA has a grain bill that includes an aromatic dark malt addition.  Perhaps this is why this beer tastes like the DuganA and very unlike the SN Celebration Ale?  Also, the hop aroma is not nearly what I expected.  I'm obviously not that pleased with the beer, but at least we're moving forward... baby steps like Billy Murray said in that movie "What About Bob".

54
Kegging and Bottling / How Long Will It Last?
« on: March 23, 2011, 04:46:18 AM »
I've got a homebrew competition on 14 May but wanted to tap into the five-gallon keg of my Big, Black, and Burley Stout this Friday with some friends.  The carbonation is rougly 15-psi after a couple weeks on my corn sugar mixture and I can always add CO2 to keep the beer at 12-psi and it will never come into contact with oxygen.  But seeing that I would like some validation, does anone know why I should not crack into the beer Friday seeing that I will be putting it into a competion on May 14th and will never be touched by oxygen?  I figure the biggest threat to this beer is me drinking it before the event, huh?

55
We just brewed the first commercially produced IPA in the history of South Korea this past Saturday at a small 7-bbl brewery northeast of Seoul.  We used 15 lbs of hops in the boil kettle (60/15/flameout shedule).  The South Korean brewers' heads about exploded at the amount of hops we used - they had never seen that kind of massive hop addition.  From my understanding, they use 4 lbs at most for the five regular beers they brew.  I tried telling the head brewer that we also needed to dry-hop the beer.  He was really confused and hesitated about it.  However, he has since been told that we will be dry-hopping the beer when the gravity is under 1.020 and to just do it basically.  My only concern is how to hop a beer in a 20 hecto-liter fermenter?  I have three pounds of leaf hops (2 lbs Cascade/1 lb Centennial).  I figure we'll just rip open the foil bags and toss them in the top.  But how will we drain the fermenter later?  I'm guessing that most of the leaf hops will stay on top... and a few will drop to the bottom.  I watched them attach a large hose (with a small glass piece inserted near the tip) when emptying that same fermenter... and subsequently cleaning it out.  The beer that was in the fermenter was bled of the yeast into a large plastic bucket.  When the beer was running clear, they pumped it into a bright tank.  As these guys have never dry-hopped, and I've never dry-hopped at this level, what are the concerns?  I'm guessing we just blow out the yeast and hops in the bottom of the conical fermenter and let the clear beer flow into the bright tank until it fills to the top... or 10 hecto-liters.. and then discard the rest of the beer so we don't introduce hop particles into the bright tank???  I'd appreciate any advice for our first commercially-produced IPA... and first dry-hopped beer in South Korea!!!   :o  Cheers, Bill

56
All Grain Brewing / Imperial Stout with Pacific Gem Hops
« on: January 15, 2011, 04:44:39 PM »
Has anyone used Pacific Gem hops yet?  I just got them a month or so ago and figured they'd go good in a big stout.   I'm thinking about putting those hops in at the 60-minute point and then Simcoe at the 30-minute point.  I've heard Pacific Gem has a blackberry flavor.  The Simcoe has a woody, earthy character (I understand) and thought the two would go well together. 
75
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

By the way... before anyone asks, the recipe for five gallons is:

20.25 lbs 2 row
2 lbs Smoked Cherrywood
1 lb Belgian Debittered
1 lb Roasted Barley
.75 lb Carafa III
.5 lb Black Patent
1 lb Carapils
2 lbs Flaked Barley
1 lb Flaked Oats
.5 lb Flaked Rye

Yeast   Wyeast 1450  Denny's Favorite

57
Yeast and Fermentation / Wyeast 1007 for IPA's???
« on: January 11, 2011, 06:16:22 PM »
In another topic thread, Denny mentioned that Wyeast 1007 (Alt yeast) might be a good strain for IPAs.  I was wondering why he - and others - might believe this.  I'm all about making my favorite beers better.

58
Does anyone know where I might be able to find a website to help me determine what minerals (and proper amounts per 5 gallon batch) I would need to make a stout with a Dublin water profile?  I'm going to make a huge 30lb high-gravity stout and want to see how it tastes with the Dublin water mineral content.  Any help would be appreciated.

59
Yeast and Fermentation / Conditioning Questions
« on: January 01, 2011, 03:46:51 AM »
I have a 1.083 OG (now 1.013) IPA just recently kegged 11 days ago.  I kegged it shortly after finding out the beer was at it's 1.013 mark.  After kegging, I set it on my porch where the temperature stays around 40 - 45 degrees.  Here's the conditioning questions... conditioning refers to secondary fermentation?  Is conditioning complete once the final gravity has been hit or should it remain in the fermentor for an additional time period prior to kegging?  I was wanting to make sure any/all off flavors would be completely removed in the conditioning phase.  I just want to fully understand if I did this when I kegged my beer or if I jumped the gun and should've left the beer in the fermentor longer.  By the way, the beer was in the fermentor a total of 38 days.

60
Yeast and Fermentation / Fermentation Temps
« on: December 28, 2010, 07:51:36 PM »
Ok... I'm guessing I'm ignorant.  I always assumed that fermentation temperature referred to the temperature of the location where the fermentor was located.  So, if the fermentation temperature for a given yeast was listed between 65 - 72 degrees, I figured the termperature of the room where my fermentor was located had to be between 65 - 72 degrees.  So from what people are tellling me on the forum, I need to adjust my fermentation temperatures to include a 10-degree factor to allow for the heat generated from the fermentation activity?  So the room where I'm conducting my fermentation has to be between (in my example) between 55 - 62 degrees???  I'm a bit confused.  Then all my beers have been brewed way above the proper temperature range... however, I've had very few beers that tasted bad in my opinion.

Any input would be appreciated.

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