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Messages - BairsBrewing

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91
Wood/Casks / Re: New barrels
« on: August 27, 2015, 08:14:46 PM »
How much was the big one? Did you go up to Woodinville to buy them?

92
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Just joined this forum
« on: May 29, 2015, 12:51:27 AM »
Welcommen!

93
Homebrew Competitions / Re: Aaaargh!
« on: March 07, 2015, 03:51:42 PM »
I use Irish moss, 1 tbls at ten minutes left in the boil. As I'm chilling I circulate the wort so the sediment stays in the middle.  I also changed my pickup type from straight down to angled to keep away from the sediment.  This last batch I tried gelatin and it's crystal clear.  I agree with the others regarding aroma though, not as strong as usual. Only difference is the use of the gelatin.

94
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Head Question
« on: March 06, 2015, 03:49:50 PM »
I have been using carapils in my AG batches for the past year. I usually go 10% of the grain bill.  I get very good head (beer gutter minds, ) when it's properly carbonated.

95
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash pH
« on: February 28, 2015, 04:54:11 AM »
Go to wards labs.  Google it.  You can send a a sample spend $20 and get a full detail of your water.  Then plug that into beer smith or whatever else you may use and no more guessing.

96
All Grain Brewing / Ugh
« on: February 28, 2015, 04:31:35 AM »
Ok, rushing to do a batch for a competition, always a big mistake.  Put my false bottom upside down, several stucks. First time using my mill, maybe too fine of a crush, then I remembered the upside down bottom. Fly sparse into the kettle, boil, OG spot on. Pitch the starter, rolling in 12 hrs. Wednesday, four days after brew day, SG is at 1.016! Last night try the gelatin fining. Today kegged with dry hops (whole), tomorrow, I will taste/check carb levels, and then bottle three on Sunday for the competition delivery.  Pretty crazy how it went. It's a local brewery competition that I won last time so hopefully I will win again.  News to come....

97
I keg so I can adjust my head.... But I used to use pbw, extra hot rinse water, then star-San sanitize

98
All Grain Brewing / Re: Rimms question
« on: February 22, 2015, 09:29:13 PM »

The sensor has to be immediately downstream of the element in order to avoid overheating the wort. The PID cannot control the wort temperature unless the control-feedback loop is very small. You want the sensor as close as possible downstream of the element for best performance.

I also recommend that you include additional thermometers in your wort circuit so that you can monitor temperatures at the top and bottom of your grain bed. That gives you the ability to know when your mash has reached equilibrium after a mash step.

Thanks Mabrungard, I thought about a small digital therm on the output valve. My sensor tip is about 1/2" from the end of the heating element.

99
All Grain Brewing / Rimms question
« on: February 22, 2015, 04:08:41 AM »
Do you have the temp sensor on the output to the top of the mash or do you have it on the input from the bottom of the mash?  Did I do this right? 

100
Ingredients / Re: 2-Row Bulk (Ordering and Storing)
« on: February 10, 2015, 06:42:40 AM »
I hope everyone here has full sacks, just sayin, lol.  Sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity...

101
All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Mill Gap Setting
« on: January 22, 2015, 03:14:11 PM »

Well there are a few things to consider when setting your gap.

First, what type of brewing to you do? Typical all grain / BIAB ??
Second, if typical all grain, do you use a false bottom, manifold, or SS braid?

That being said, IIRC the default gap is approx 0.50, and I wold start from there, you might fall into the if it aint broke don't fix it category.

Before you crush anything, make sure you get a good gap measurement, and if you adjust, I would suggest dropping only 0.02 between batches.

Brew a batch, see what your efficiency numbers look like, also pay attention to your run off speed and how well your lautering goes.

If you BIAB or have a SS braid, you might be able to get away with starting in the 0.40 gap range.

In all cases, crush slow, it will keep the husk intact better.

I only do all grain, have a false bottom, and RIMMS system.  I have feeler gauges, best thing I ever bought when I was 16, and set the gap on both sides to .040. Crushed some brown rice and was happy with the results.  Maybe I will stop at my LHBS and get a pound of 2-row to test before brew day.

102
All Grain Brewing / Grain Mill Gap Setting
« on: January 22, 2015, 03:32:35 AM »
I have a cereal crusher mill and have never used it before, any suggestions on a good gap setting to start off with?

103
All Grain Brewing / Re: Buying Grains Online
« on: January 21, 2015, 04:07:35 PM »
What is you're efficiency like?  Mine is adjustable and was set, I say was because like any guy, I had to figure out how the thing worked. 

104
All Grain Brewing / Buying Grains Online
« on: January 21, 2015, 03:43:23 PM »
I'm curious to know who does what.

I buy my base grains locally in 55 lb. sacks. Specialty grains online, usually in 5 or 10 lb. bags, shopping around for prices. More Beer has good prices and free shipping when you buy $60 or more. I keep a supply of grains and hops on hand, so that I can brew anything I want whenever I have time, when the fancy hits me.

I crush all my grains at home on brew day.

What gap setting do you use on your mill?  I'm starting the same thing and don't really have any idea on a starting point.  I bought myself a Cereal Killer mill as a late birthday present.

105
Equipment and Software / Re: Share your brew stands!
« on: December 29, 2014, 06:28:55 PM »
LOL Pinski! 

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