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Messages - Wesbrau

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16
Equipment and Software / Re: Banjo Burner Issue...
« on: December 31, 2012, 06:21:20 PM »
Sweet.  And an easy fix at that. 

17
Ingredients / Re: Combination of hops to create an "orange" flavor
« on: December 31, 2012, 06:19:59 PM »
Amarillo

18
Equipment and Software / Re: Banjo Burner Issue...
« on: December 26, 2012, 04:09:31 PM »
I think cutting holes in the burner shield might not be the answer.  It looks like you already have a sizeable opening in the shield on the corner where the burner assembly comes in.  I think the problem might be that you're trapping the exhaust in the diamond shaped part of the frame, between the burner and the kettle bottom.   

The diamond part of the frame appears to be 2" thick.  Cutting holes in the shield below it would thus be 2" lower than might be needed, because hot exhaust wants to rise up.

You could probably test this theory by setting your pot off center to create a gap between the diamond part of the frame and the kettle.  If that opening serves as a flue for the exhaust, it might tame the runaway flames and result in the burner going back to normal.  If so, I would think that would mean the diamond part of the frame is the part that is in the way.  You may have to cut out the midpoints on the sides of the diamond.

I'm no expert on this subject by any means, so take what I say with a grain (or bag) of salt.  I'm just throwing out ideas.  Definitely get a second or fifth opinion before you do any cutting.

19
Equipment and Software / Re: Banjo Burner Issue...
« on: December 26, 2012, 01:17:22 PM »
This could just be a perspective thing, but from the picture, it looks like there is no where for your exhaust gas to go.  The diamond in the frame that is supporting the kettle and surrounding the burner appears as though it would trap a lot of the exhaust gas (CO2, etc.) between the frame and your kettle bottom.  If that exhaust gas cannot escape, it could then choke your flame.  Or it wouldn't combust until it escaped around the frame.

You could try setting your burner off to one side to create a gap between your frame and your kettle bottom and see if that helps.

20
Hoppy red and a classic American pilsner

21
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs vials?
« on: September 24, 2012, 02:26:56 PM »
From the fine print on Whitelabs.com Customer Club site:

"Club Members can only redeem vials twice per year."

Anyone know what this means?  Can we only send in two redemption forms per year?  Or, are we limited to receiving two coupons for free vials per year?  Thanks,

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 19, 2012, 11:30:35 PM »
One thing that stands out to me is the heavy Simcoe additions.  I use Simcoe only as an accent to other hops I'm using for flavor and aroma.  However, I do not get a "dirt" taste from Simcoe.  Rather, it's more of an onion, garlic note.  I usually add Simcoe as a fraction of my other flavor hops and I still get a pretty strong Simcoe flavor from those additions.

You also have a lot of Chinook in there relative to the other hops and it can be a bit coarse, although not something I would call "dirt." 

If you haven't already tried this, you flip the late hop amounts in your recipe by doubling the cascade and centennial and halving the simcoe and chinook and see what you get. 

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 9/7
« on: September 09, 2012, 10:04:39 PM »
Hosted a learn-to-brew party for 8 folks.  We brewed a 20 gallon extract batch of IPA with Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, and Simcoe hops.  We also brewed a 20 gallon all grain batch of the White House Honey Porter.  I wanted to show the crew what a mash looked like, so we converted the President's extract recipe to all grain, including adjustments to the hopping for a full wort boil.  It was a good day.  Having them back over for a tasting in about a month.

24
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: White House Brew Recipe
« on: September 02, 2012, 09:24:27 AM »
What is "amber crystal malt"?

25
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Old Extract?
« on: August 30, 2012, 09:47:10 PM »
Also when did you put your LME in the beer? Adding LME at the end of the boil will have huge positive effects on your beer. We are currently validating in store putting LME in after the boil. Since you only need to sanitize it, our theory is that if we keep it above 160F for 15 minutes we will be fine. So far we have had luck at keeping LME above 180 for 30 minutes with no problem. Just some food for thought.

I may have to try that.  For both batches, the one with the old LME and the subsequent one with the DME, we added the extract after removing the steeping grains (at about 160F).  The heat was off and we stirred them in well before ramping up to boiling.  The DME batch smelled like normal all grain wort, whereas the LME batch had that molasses aroma and was much darker than expected. 

Not trying to knock Morebeer.  I've been very pleased with them over the years.  Just a bad batch of extract, I guess.

26
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Old Extract?
« on: August 30, 2012, 01:52:00 PM »
The version I re-brewed with DME has finished active fermentation.  Drew a sample last night and this beer has none of the problems I noted in the prior LME beer. 

The LME I used in the prior batch was from Morebeer, which I'm pretty sure is from Briess.  MB touts their turnover and so I was surprised to get old extract. 

27
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Old Extract?
« on: August 27, 2012, 12:14:29 AM »
Did the same recipe today substituting DME for the LME and what a difference that made.  My pale ale is actually pale, instead of the red ale the LME gave me.  Smelled much more like my all grain batches, too.  Thanks, everyone, for the tip.

By the way, on the last beer I made with the LME, the molasses character in the LME carried over into the finished beer.  Way too thick, sweet and with a flavor and aroma of molasses/syrup.  Dumper batch.  Not doing LME again.

28
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Old Extract?
« on: August 20, 2012, 10:47:21 AM »
Thanks, guys.  I can handle the color.  But the stale, molasses/syrup thing is no good.  Funny thing, I bought it from a place that touts their high turnover on extract, ensuring that they provide the freshest.  Switching to DME for any future extract beers. 

29
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Old Extract?
« on: August 18, 2012, 09:17:09 AM »
Recently, I brewed an extract batch using LME (pale/gold and munich).  When we opened up the extract, both the pale and the munich LME had a very noticeable molasses-like aroma too it and was a lot darker than we anticipated.  We were shooting for a very light colored pale ale and wound up with something very red.  The molasses/syrupy character also appears in the finished beer.  Since switching to all grain brewing, I haven't used extract for many years and I have long since forgotten what extract should smell like.  Does this sound like it was old extract?  Thanks very much,

Wes

30
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Yeast for an Oatmeal Stout?
« on: July 03, 2012, 03:24:55 PM »
I made one recently with 007 that is fantastic.  I used Golden Naked Oats (crystal oat malt) instead of flaked oats and I believe this helped keep the beer from drying out too much.  Alternatively, you could raise the mash temp.  I like 007 a lot.

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