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Messages - Wesbrau

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31
Equipment and Software / Re: GIve Up on ProMash??
« on: June 28, 2012, 10:19:15 PM »
I'm running Promash on Windows 7.  No trouble yet.

32
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: One Week beer
« on: June 28, 2012, 10:08:13 PM »
Using a highly flocculant yeast would be my only comment as well, unless you plan to filter.  With that low of a gravity, I would consider using 002 to avoid a thin body.  Start it cool, say 64/65F, then let it rise on its own to 70 and it will finish quick, drop quick, and be ready to drink quick.

33
Small amounts of carafa, roast barley, or black patent can give a boost to the color without much contribution to flavor.  I'd go with the darkest one you can get, probably carafa special III, and use just enough to get the color you want.  The flavor impact should be less than using crystal to get the same color, and it definitely will not add the sweetness you're getting from the crystal.  There also are the new Blackprinz and Midnight Wheat malts available, but I haven't tried those.

34
Kegging and Bottling / Re: O2 Barrier caps... Really?
« on: April 29, 2012, 09:19:34 AM »
I've heard that Sierra Nevada changed their bottles from screw off caps to pry off caps just so theycould switch to O2 absorbing caps.   Those guys know their sh*t.

35
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerate Starter?
« on: April 06, 2012, 03:30:10 PM »
I use a stir plate, but hadn't considered continuously aerating it in addition to stirring.  If I were to add continuous aeration to the stir plate, wouldn't that increase the final cell count over what I'd get from stirring alone?  If so, wouldn't that result in a higher yeast count than what Mr. Malty's calculator predicts?  Would there be a potential for over-pitching here? 

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Honey IPA - when to add
« on: April 02, 2012, 09:35:41 PM »
If you're kegging and can keep the kegs cold until consumed, you could "dry honey" the beer in the keg.  Just add the honey to some 190-200 degree water to dissolve it, add the mixture to your keg, and rack onto it. 

37
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: To decant or not to decant??
« on: January 27, 2012, 05:20:06 PM »
I would start it at 64 or 65F and then let it rise over the course of fermentation to around 67F.  This fermentation profile has resulted in very clean beers for me.  It can go colder, but these temperatures strike a good balance.  I've heard it will go a lot colder, but I haven't tried it. 

38
Brewed a session IPA.  4% abv but tons of late hops as though it was an IPA.

39
Equipment and Software / Re: Heating a Fermentation Fridge
« on: October 22, 2010, 01:26:38 PM »
If you are really set up to screw in a light bulb as a heat source for your box, you could substitute an Infrared emmiter used for keeping pet snakes and turtles warm. e.g. http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/2533/product.web.

This is what I do and it works great.  I purchased at a pet store a ceramic terrarium heater "bulb" (I forget the wattage at the moment).  Right next to the ceramic bulb in the store was a socket rated for the wattage of this cerabmic bulb, which had a wire cage around it for safety.  It works great plugged into my dual stage controller -- I set the temp for each stage on my controller to my desired ferm temp and set the differential to 1 degree F.  My ferment temperature is always spot on.

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