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Messages - dunngood

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31
General Homebrew Discussion / Patco Antifoam
« on: March 23, 2011, 03:20:16 PM »
This is made by Birko and is a food grade canola product. It is suppose to break down into a yeast nutrient.
I now see where Brewers should not use silicone-containing antifoam for unfiltered beers. The FDA allows active silicone to be used up to 10 parts-per-million (ppm) but stipulates that the silicone must be removed prior to packaging by either filtration or centrifugation. In the case of unfiltered beers, use a food grade, non-silicone antifoam.
I have been using Fermcap but would be interested if anyone has experience with this product.
                                                                                                                                              Cheers

32
Equipment and Software / Re: A burning question
« on: March 07, 2011, 01:37:48 AM »
Euge, is your burner outside? And Gordonstrong Thanks I will try that after all I am trying to work the bugs out.  ::)

33
Equipment and Software / Re: A burning question
« on: March 06, 2011, 08:36:20 PM »
Both burners are the 20 nozzle 200,000BTU burners. With the natural gas set up there is no shutter or regulator. The air source is a hole at the base of the nozzles.
I was thinking about adding a regulator and adjusting the gas to get a good clean flame like propane but don't know much about natgas
Also one guy tried to go to propane and still had this problem..

34
Equipment and Software / A burning question
« on: March 06, 2011, 03:01:00 PM »
Two brewers in my area are having the same problem. Both have 20 gal. brew stands indoors that run on natural gas. Both are having problems with the flame turning the pots black with shoot and a yellow flame.
Both have tried different nozzles with no luck. One says his flame is ok till he puts a pot on it. It sounds like a gas to air problem but with natural gas there is no regulator. Both have fans for air in and air out. Anyone have any ideas cause I really like drinking there beers.

35
General Homebrew Discussion / Brewers Clarex and Gluten
« on: December 29, 2010, 06:45:26 PM »
 I just heard of a product that when added to the fermentation reduces the gluten levels to .0005 percent. That should be low enough for any celiac person to tolerate.

The product is an enzyme called Brewers Clarex. It is now offered by White Labs.
http://www.whitelabs.com/DSM.html

Here is more infro.

http://www.examiner.com/beer-in-national/gluten-free-beer-reduced-gluten-beer-offers-real-beer-taste-for-celiac-impaired

Has anyone tried this. As I have friends with this problem I might try it.

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Too Cold?
« on: December 08, 2010, 06:09:38 PM »
You can always take a thermometer or probe and cover it with insulation like styrofoam and tape it to the side of the  fermenator. It should read with in a degree or two of the wort inside.
I like that yeast and always ferment it under 50F. Just remember to pitch enough yeast . Lagers take almost twice as much yeast as ales.

37
I would say dropping carboys. I can still see the wave of Stout flowing across the carpet and crashing into the couch. I had to pull up the carpet and pad to clean up.

Then I dropped a 61/2 gal carboy slippery from cleaner. No beer loss but dangerous.

In my early days I had a container full of fermenting wine detonate next to my white germen shepherd. It actually stained the dog. Of course we called him spot for a week or so.

38
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 26, 2010, 01:33:06 PM »
Well I did the haze test suggested by Wyeast and it seems my problem is protein.
I used a White Labs tube full of the problem beer and added the caustic. Any haze cleared and so did the specks.
I use an IM chiller. In the winter I run a garden hose through the snow then through the chiller. I can get the wort down to 70F in 15 to 20 mins.

I have tried cold crashing and gelatin but it did not seem to work with this problem.

I will send out a sample to Wards for an water test. .


39
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 23, 2010, 10:19:49 AM »
This has happened with many different yeasts. Lager or Ale. A friend has some castic to use in the test I sent on this post. I will post the results.

40
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 22, 2010, 11:04:30 PM »
No I batch prime with corn sugar.

41
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 22, 2010, 09:30:22 PM »
Yes, all the beers are bottle conditioned. I have been doing that for many years with no problem till now. This is what wyeast said.
: Many times protein haze may be mistaken for non-flocculating yeast. First confirm that it is yeast in suspension and not protein by performing a Haze Test. Haze Determination Test Decant 50 ml of hazy beer into a clear sample container. Add 2ml. caustic (40-50%). Shake. If beer turns clear, the problem is protein in suspension. If beer remains cloudy, yeast is still in suspension. Flocculation and clarification are very complex. Many times clarification problems have nothing to do with the yeast, but instead with the environment that the yeast is in. Yeast will flocculate and sediment given time unless something inhibits this. A combination of environmental factors including pH, alcohol content, temperature, sugar concentration, and ion content can negatively affect flocculation and sedimentation. Environmental conditions will affect the flocculation abruptly, showing large differences in subsequent fermentations. It is also possible for yeast to mutate to a less flocculent form. This is usually a very gradual process, over the course of many generations. Every time a brewer harvests their yeast, they have the opportunity to select for a slightly different population. Over a number of generations, the population can show a change in flocculation and thus probably population. It is important for the brewer to try to harvest yeast from the same area in the fermenter to minimize possible changes.   I will try this soon. Maybe that will help.  Thanks

42
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 22, 2010, 08:16:13 PM »
All grain, batch sparge. I have tried a secondary and cold crashing with gelatin. I use Whirrfloc.
I have a good IC chiller and get to pitching temps in 20 mins or less.

I believe my starter sizes and fermentation temps are good.
I really watch my cleaning and use Star San.
I have used different water with no luck.

The beer is very clear when bottled. These flakes or clumps form in the bottle latter on.

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 22, 2010, 07:10:33 PM »
I have a photo but don't know how to attach it. The beer tastes great. I just took 1st. place at the New York State fair with some of the bottles that were clear. I see on the wyeast site they say to mix castic in a sample if it clears it might be protiens, if not it can be yeast. Most troublesome.Just can't nail this one down.

44
General Homebrew Discussion / Haze, Flakes and clumbs
« on: September 22, 2010, 04:42:38 PM »
I am having a problem with specks or clumps floating in my beers.Sometimes it looks like a shaken snowdoom. When I bottle the beer is very clear but in about two weeks these specks appear.

It happens with all different styles and ingredients. Sometimes the clumps are even bigger but never seem to settle out.The rest of the beer is very clear.

Do you have any ideas?



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