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Messages - redzim

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151
All Grain Brewing / Re: atringency
« on: January 02, 2013, 09:31:46 AM »


If you're batch sparging with water that's 180*+, it'll raise the temp of the grain bed, so I doubt your run-off is actually over 170*F.
This is what I was thinking, which led me to think he's over sparging.  But he did say that he took temperature readings of 175F+.

Ok so how do I stop "oversparging"....  try to balance my first run-off and 2nd run-off?

For instance on the Altbier I'm drinking right now, which got me thinking about this, I ran off 6.0 gal, then sparged to collect another 11.5gal to reach 17.5 gal, which I needed because I wanted to do a 75 minute boil....  I guess that is pretty unbalanced, and I could mash a lot thinner to get that balanced out (I doughed-in at 1.5 qts/lbs, then did an step infusion to get my sach rest, this left the mash at 2.15 qts/lbs, then I did a decoction mashout). 

My 2012 Oktoberfest was more balanced in the run-offs; I collected 7 gal first, then sparged 9 gal more to get 16 gal total which is all I needed for a 60min boil.  Still had a mildly unpleasant astrigency about it....

152
All Grain Brewing / Re: atringency
« on: January 02, 2013, 09:25:34 AM »
Red - I acidify may sparge water to 5.5 or so.

Same here and I think this could be your problem.  The combination of high temperature and relatively high alkalinity is what causes tannin extraction.  If your sparge water is below 5.7 or so the temperature is less important.

I had the exact same astringency issue awhile back and it went away once I started acidifying my sparge water.  I routinely sparge at temperatures greater than 170F.

So how do I acidify sparge water? I've never done that... any tips on formulas & chemicals would be appreciated... my tap water is around 7.5-7.8 pH, but on some brews I use 50% or more (up to 100%) distilled water with some minerals added in....  I guess the pH of that water will still be at least 7 or more though, as distilled water has pH of 7, right?


153
All Grain Brewing / astringency
« on: January 02, 2013, 06:25:56 AM »
I've been noticing a little astringency (dry puckery aftertaste that lasts a little too long for my liking) in only a few of my beers this past 6 months.  After looking thru my brewing notes I noticed that this flavor was pretty much confined to high-attenuating, medium-bittered amber-ish beers (ales & lagers). Here's my theory, you tell me if I'm on the right track:

I think I've been sparging with too-hot water (I batch sparge a la Denny).   Somewhere a while ago I read that one should sparge with 180F water but I'm kind of sloppy about it and often hit 185 or 190 (I log this every batch.)  I then often hit a mash-tun temp of 175+ before I start running off my second runnings (but I only leave the mash at that temp for 5 mins, max).  Now searching online for sources of astringency, I find a lot of people saying that sparge water should not be above 170F...  Which I definitely have not been heeding...  So how possible is it that this hot sparge is extracting tannins?

I think I am doing this for all my beers but my theory is that I only notice it in certain beers like Alt and Oktoberfest because they finish out pretty dry (~1.010) and are not aggressively hopped.... in my recent Pilsners, Pale Ales, and IPAs I have not noticed this because they have a lot more hops in. Also in other slightly " sweeter" beers like Porters and Bocks I don't notice it because of more malty flavors, higher F.G., etc.   Is this a good guess?

Also: is it worth checking the pH of the mash at sparging time? Currently I only check the mash about 5-10 minutes into the first rest, I aim for around 5.3 to 5.6 (at room temp) and pretty much get there all the time... but I do boil in a large-diameter steam kettle and need to collect 16 gallons of liquid to boil down to 11 gal of wort; I often run-off only 6.5-7 gallons of first runnings, and then sparge with 9+ gallons more; could this by somehow messing up the pH of the sparge by diluting the buffering power of the grain and making the mash pH jump up to 5.8 or higher?

One more thing could be that I'm milling too fine... is it true that too much "flour" in the grist will extract tannins? I'm using a BarleyCrusher set on about 30-32 mil (measured with an automotive feeler gauge) but I do see a fair bit of flour.... my brewhouse efficiency usually hits around 85%; lower for 1.060+ beers, but I do hit 90% on some decocted or low-gravity brews. 

thanks
red

(edited to correct misspelling in post title)

154
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German Lager flavor, round 2
« on: January 02, 2013, 06:05:46 AM »
Thanks for posting, nateo.  That was an interesting read.  I used to decoct a lot of my German lagers.  I stopped doing that last summer, opting for single-infusion mashes instead.
Any difference? I did a Vienna a couple weeks back, just an infusion. Will see what I think in a few months.

The Vienna recipe I use (it started as a Negro Modelo clone from one of the Szamatulski [sp?] books but I've tweaked it over a few years)   has just a single infusion at 150F; I've been quite happy with it over 4 or 5 batches....

-red

155
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German Lager flavor, round 2
« on: January 02, 2013, 06:02:29 AM »


Here's one response I found interesting (my translation, from http://hobbybrauer.de/modules.php?name=eBoard&file=viewthread&tid=16789)



Gee thanks Nate!  ;)  Now I have to follow yet one more brewing forum, only it's in German!   Actually that site looks really interesting and I'm going to have to spend some time there...

-red

156
Equipment and Software / Re: Digital refractometer
« on: December 29, 2012, 08:26:17 AM »
I have the Hanna.
I like to use the refractometer during the brewing process because it's quicker (smaller samples, don't have to wait while the sample cools, etc.)
I've seen Sean's spreadsheet and it works.
I just use the hydrometer for the FG reading because I always have!
Besides, then I can drink the hydrometer sample!

I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Digital-Refractometer-Analysis/dp/B002NX0WHI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356794437&sr=8-2&keywords=hanna+refractometer

Piece of cake to use during brew day to see how close I'm getting to OG. I used to use it a lot more than I do now though, I guess because my recipes and process have become pretty standardized over the last 2 years.   Probably overkill, there are better things to spend your $166 on... I still go with a trusted hydrometer during fermentation though

I use it more for maple sapping / syrup season.... it's a breeze to carry in the sugar bush and spot check the trees... and you gotta get your syrup to 66 Brix in the boil house... now that's a time of year coming on soon here in upstate NY!

-red

157
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German Lager flavor, round 2
« on: December 29, 2012, 07:47:08 AM »
Couple things from reading this summary:

#1. This (and the previous thread of same title) is probably the most valuable and informative thread I've seen on this board.   Thanks for everyone's input!

#2. IME I can nail any amber or darker German lager (at least in my own blind tests). Maibock, Dunkel, Schwarz...  I seem to have no trouble getting a beer I'm really really happy with.  It's the Pilsners (both German and Bohemian) that are hard to hit. Obviously this has a lot to do with my water: it's moderately hard, and I use it 100% for Schwarz, and dilute it 50/50 with distilled water to brew Maibocks and Dunkels. But I use 100% distilled and add in minerals to brew Pilsners. 

#3. +1 to the idea that extended lagering is very key... the closest matches I've had to Jever Pils and Pilsner Urquell (the two styles I've been trying to copy; brewed probably five 10-gal batches of  each over the last 2 years) tasted the best at 8+ weeks in the keg. But both of these were not in primary for more than 18-20 days.... I've never tried the lagering on yeast cake thing and not sure I want to try

#4. Decoction: Probably psychological but I like to do at least a mash-out decoction on all the German styles... makes me feel more authentic, and its fun.... I do Hochkurz on Bo Pils and am going to try a triple on my next Bo Pils just for the hell of it... and of course the beer tastes better; I put an extra 2+ hours of work into it!

#5. Happy New Year to all...

-red



158
Ingredients / Re: Multi-Step Infusion & Water Adjustments
« on: December 27, 2012, 07:08:36 AM »
You should add them all to the mash at the beginning. For the most part pH is a function of grist and the total amount of (pH active) minerals present. Hence the suggestion to add them all at the beginning.

Kai

But you still add the fraction of minerals for sparge water with the sparge water, correct?  At least, your spreadsheet breaks it down into "mash" and "sparge" amounts....

Hope everyone had a merry Christmas, and a happy New Year to all....  I'm brewing Jamil's Traditional Bock today.....

-red


159
Ingredients / Re: Weyermann Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt?
« on: December 20, 2012, 07:32:19 PM »
Even with a triple decoction, they don't seem to recommend a protein rest with this malt:

http://www.weyermann.de/downloads/pdf/Voigt_Poster_Trends%20in%20Brewing%20Ghent%202010.pdf
An average Kolbach Index of 38.4% is given, which isn't undermodified enough to require a protein rest.

As a follow up, was looking at the mashing chapter in New Brewing Lager Beers and Noonan stated that anything over 37 does not require a protein rest. Thanks for the info, will make the day shorter.

Warming up an old thread: did you ever use that triple decoction schedule in the link higher up this thread, Jeff? And if so, what were the results? 

thanks
red

160
All Grain Brewing / possible Hochkurz decoction screw-up
« on: November 17, 2012, 08:59:45 AM »
I did a Hochkurz decoction the other day on a German Pilsner (a recipe I got from Pawtucket Patriot) and while reviewing my notes today I noticed that I forgot to hold the first decoction at ~150F for 10 min or so before bringing it to a boil....  I had the mash at 148F, then pulled the first decoction and ramped it right up to a boil.....  is this going to make a huge deal?

-red

161
Beer Recipes / Re: covert FWH to boil hops
« on: October 16, 2012, 05:11:15 AM »
I'd like to brew Denny's Waldo Lake Amber based on the recipe of NB's Kit (I won't buy the kit, but just follow their recipe.)  It is hopped as follows:

1.00oz Cascade @ FWH
0.75 Magnum @ 60min
1.00oz Centennial @ 0min

How would I convert the Cascade amount to boil hops?  My work schedule for the next few weeks won't allow me to have 6 hour un-interrrupted for brewing, but I've had good luck chilling my wort (after mashing)  in a walk-in cooler for up to 48 hours before starting the boil. But somehow I don't think that leaving FWH hops in for 48hours is going to work... or maybe it will?

Advice?
tx red

If you do what you propose, it will be a different beer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Right, if I change FWH to boil hopping, it will be different. And if I leave FWH in the wort for 48 hrs, that will probably also be different.... but what about the theory of putting the FWH in when I'm heating the wort up to boil, and "steeping" them there for 20 minutes or so at around 140F, which is almost exactly what happens when you FWH right out of the mash cooler (my wort is usually 130-140F, and I have it boiling within 30 minutes....) It's just that the wort has been chilled for some time between, and then reheated thru mash temps to boiling.  Is there some enzymatic activity coming out of the mash that has been halted or slowed by the chilling of the wort that will effect the FWH?

-red

162
Beer Recipes / Re: covert FWH to boil hops
« on: October 15, 2012, 07:22:18 AM »
If you're bringing your wort to a boil from cooler temps, just add the FWH once you hit mash temp range (140ish). I do this with extract brews a lot and it works pretty well.

This is why I love this forum.... great solid suggestions that I hadn't though of... so as I bring the wort to a boil, toss in the FWH hops at 140, then they will have (at least on my system) about 10-15 minutes to steep before it hits the boil...  I could even slow down the heat input to give it 20+ mins of steeping as Don suggests...  I'm going to try this. 

-red

163
Beer Recipes / covert FWH to boil hops
« on: October 15, 2012, 05:22:13 AM »
I'd like to brew Denny's Waldo Lake Amber based on the recipe of NB's Kit (I won't buy the kit, but just follow their recipe.)  It is hopped as follows:

1.00oz Cascade @ FWH
0.75 Magnum @ 60min
1.00oz Centennial @ 0min

How would I convert the Cascade amount to boil hops?  My work schedule for the next few weeks won't allow me to have 6 hour un-interrrupted for brewing, but I've had good luck chilling my wort (after mashing)  in a walk-in cooler for up to 48 hours before starting the boil. But somehow I don't think that leaving FWH hops in for 48hours is going to work... or maybe it will?

Advice?
tx red

164
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: September 13, 2012, 01:09:36 PM »
Just got back from two weeks in Germany (near Jena in Thüringen if anyone knows the area) and of course took the opportunity to "recalibrate" the palate.  Interestingly,  I found, while sampling a number of regional and national German Pilsners, some in bottles, some "vom Fass", (Köstritzer, Ur-Krostitzer, Wernesgrüner, König, Saalfelder, Jever, Radeberger, Bitburger are the ones I can remember)  that what I am chasing as a German Pils aroma over here in the US seems to be mostly muted or subdued in Germany, and in some cases it is non-existent (for example in Ur-Krostitzer which I had from the tap at a reputable place run by friends of my brother, that I know plows through the stuff, so I know it was quite fresh).

I've heard/read some comments along those lines but would be interested what others who have been to Germany recently think on this issue....  is it possible that some of what we are discussing here is just a bit of oxidation, perhaps some light- and heat-struck issues, etc, rather than an actual "good" component of a beer that we should be trying to emulate?

Just a thought...

-red

165
Kegging and Bottling / Re: how long does dry hopping last?
« on: August 24, 2012, 04:56:57 AM »
BTW: If IPA doesn't move fast with your buddies then  it may be time to get new buddies. ;) OTOH I think I could move 10 gallons of IPA myself in 4-6 weeks.

Hey they are connoisseurs and critics of all the Pilsners, Helles, and Bocks I make, so I think I will keep them.... more IPA for me!  ;)

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