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Messages - redzim

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61
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC
« on: January 29, 2014, 12:57:03 PM »
Thanks all. I'll bottle up 6 or 7 of everything, I think

red

62
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC
« on: January 29, 2014, 06:42:53 AM »
somewhat related question: how many 12-oz bottles are needed to be sent into NHC?  I put for 4 slots and need to save enough of those 4 beers now, otherwise they'll probably be gone by March....


63
All Grain Brewing / Re: SNPA grain bill
« on: January 24, 2014, 09:41:35 AM »
Thanks for the various ideas.  I'm not too concerned about it, but it was just interesting looking back at my notes, because my 2 previous batches in 2013 were pretty much spot on matches to SNPA, and this one was not. A perfectly fine beer though.  I've always used Briess C-60 but the base malt has been a big variable (Canada, Rahr, Briess, etc.)

red

64
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pils - hop and malt questions
« on: January 24, 2014, 07:03:08 AM »
FYI

Jever, Germany water profile:

Ca: 60   
Mg: 5   
Na: 15   
SO4: 75   
Cl: 30   
HCO3: 105

The alkalinity would have to be neutralized for use in a G Pils, but the sodium, chloride, and sulfate levels give you an idea of an appropriate balance and intensity for those ions.

Just re-reading this thread, and noticing this statement from martin. Any idea how one would go about neutralizing the alkalinity, assuming I am building this water from the ground up starting with distilled?

A portion of the alkalinity is knocked down by pre-boiling. That can bring the bicarb down to the 60 ppm range. The rest of the alkalinity is neutralized with lactic acid (acid malt in Germany). AHA members will see more of this approach in the Mar/Apr 2014 Zymurgy.

If starting with low alkalinity water, neutralization to the degree above would not be required.

So if I were to try to emulate this using BrunWater, I would start with distilled (or my H2O diluted w/ distilled), add various salts to get the mineral concentration as above, and then adjust the pH if necessary by either adding lactic acid in line 26 of the "Water Adjustment" tab or by adding acidulated malt to the grain bill in the "Mash Acidification" tab? And of course if starting with 100% distilled, I am finally understanding that the acid (either lactic or acid malt) is uneccessary?

I'm definitely looking forward to your article; just renewed my AHA membership....

red

65
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pils - hop and malt questions
« on: January 23, 2014, 01:38:05 PM »
if you are starting with distilled you won't have the alkalinity to neutralize.

OK so when shooting for this water profile, I can just adjust to get my minerals correct, and not worry about the alkalinity?

66
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pils - hop and malt questions
« on: January 23, 2014, 01:02:12 PM »
FYI

Jever, Germany water profile:

Ca: 60   
Mg: 5   
Na: 15   
SO4: 75   
Cl: 30   
HCO3: 105

The alkalinity would have to be neutralized for use in a G Pils, but the sodium, chloride, and sulfate levels give you an idea of an appropriate balance and intensity for those ions.

Just re-reading this thread, and noticing this statement from martin. Any idea how one would go about neutralizing the alkalinity, assuming I am building this water from the ground up starting with distilled?

67
All Grain Brewing / SNPA grain bill
« on: January 23, 2014, 12:42:05 PM »
I'm sure this is covered in approx 1,000 other threads but I just need some quick reinforcement: my SNPA-like pale ale, which I've brewed unchanged for about 6 batches over 3 years, suddenly tastes too caramelly compared to the real thing.  I do 93% pale ale malt and 7% caramel 60.  should I drop that to caramel 40? or what do you guys do?

also for hops, I do about 25 IBUs of Magnum at 60min, 10 IBUs of Centennial at 30, 8 IBUs of Cascade at 10min, and about double that amount of Cascade at flame-out. Sound good? I know SN uses Perle instead of Centennial but I don't use Perle in any other beer I make so I've subbed Cent in. Would any hops from the following I stock be better: Tettnang, Willamette, Columbus, or Hallertau?

-red

68
All Grain Brewing / Re: German Pilsner water?
« on: January 21, 2014, 11:55:34 AM »
I have a German pils on tap that I made using the Jever (boiled) profile from Bru'nwater.  I'm loving it!   Not only that, but it was on tap 4 weeks to the day after I brewed it.  That included only a week of lagering.  At 4 weeks, it was crystal clear and delicious.

Where is the Jever profile? I have Brun Water 1.16b and don't see it....

69
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: how long would you lager a Trad Bock?
« on: January 15, 2014, 06:08:38 AM »
Thanks for all the tips. I am usually in the "wait at least 4 weeks but 6 is better" camp, for my lagers, so I figured a bigger-than-normal (for me) lager like bock would take longer. but all your advice is giving me an excuse to tap the keg tonight and check it out!


70
General Homebrew Discussion / how long would you lager a Trad Bock?
« on: January 14, 2014, 09:42:02 AM »
It was in primary for a little over 2 weeks, then I kegged it a little over 5 weeks ago, it's been under 11PSI @ 34F since then. So it's fully carbed by now, just want to know when I should tap it.  O.G. of 1.070 and F.G. of  1.016.


71
Equipment and Software / Re: Plate Chiller and Hops
« on: January 10, 2014, 06:58:05 AM »
First off, it can't be easier to clean and sanitize. You can inspect visually to see if it is clean, or to see if any patina needs removed with an acid (vinegar works) soak.

I use 50' of 1/2" ID copper as an IC; I can get 11 gallons from boiling to 60F in about 7 minutes right now (my groundwater temp is 46F here in the Hudson Valley). [Takes longer in the summer, of course]

Anyway I love the IC for the reasons Major mentioned but I do have trouble with cleaning it. After 6-8 batches the copper does pick up a brownish patina from all the boiling, and so far I have been soaking it in a PBW solution for a few hours, which removes most of that BUT then the PBW leaves a chalky residue which I have found very difficult to remove, I basically have to manually scrub the entire coil with an abrasive green 3M scratchy pad thing. PITA of course.  Very interested if vinegar is going to do a better job. Would you soak in pure 5% vinegar? Or dilute? And hot, or cold? Any info appreciated.

-red

72
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: January 04, 2014, 10:40:18 AM »
Finally cracked a bottle of Old Bardstown. And I mean cracked. F'ing wax on a screw-cap. Honestly it was a messy struggle to open the bottle.

Anyway. Nice bourbon and really smooth at 101 proof. To me it is kinda like Scotch. Think this one will be savored.

Just kegged my Bourbon Porter today.  I used Old Bardstown for 5 gal, and Buffalo Trace for the other 5 gal.  I consider these very solid bourbons. I think both will be great.

In line with the rest of the post, for those considering budget, take a look at Rebel Yell.  Around here, same price (or slightly cheaper) than Evan Williams and a whole lot better.   A couple years ago I split my porter with Evan in one keg and local small batch bourbon from Tuthilltown in the other. The Evan was noticeably more raw and rough in the beer.  The Tuthilltown was nice but at $40+ for a 375ml bottle I won't be trying it again (that one was a gift...)

red



73
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: low level infection?
« on: January 04, 2014, 05:54:52 AM »
Vegetal doesn't suggest infection to me. I think a low level infection is more likely to strip flavor and produce extra carbonation.

So what does vegetal suggest to you?

Also, I keg and force carbonate, so it would be hard to tell if an infection is producing something that would be a "gusher" in a bottle....

74
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: low level infection?
« on: January 04, 2014, 05:54:02 AM »
Sure there are low level infections. If you store your beer cool it will slow down most organisms alot. Plastic can harbor bugs and bugs can (maybe) become resistant to star san. try replacing your buckets and tubing. I doubt it's the hops but out could be. How do they smell?

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2

The hops smell fine, so I'm also skeptical, but like I said, some are old....

75
All Grain Brewing / Re: Decoction yields greater?
« on: January 03, 2014, 11:55:51 AM »
Decoctions have always increased my efficiency as well. My normal range is 70-76% depending on the gravity. The double decoction schedule I usually follow for most of my german beers will put me around 82-86% efficiency.

Me too. Even a single mash out decoction bumps my efficiency about 80%, compared to a single-infusion mash of the same amount of grain that would be in the low 70% area

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