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Messages - blair.streit

Pages: 1 ... 33 34 [35]
511
Beer Recipes / Re: Maibock Recipe
« on: April 05, 2016, 05:11:44 PM »
Probably going to mash around 150*. I think I would prefer it to be a little dry, but not completely set on that yet. I recently listened to Jamil talk about Maibocks on his BN show and he was pretty adamant about no crystal in this. Might take the carapils out. I'll also have to check out what malts the lhbs uses.
Jamil's Brewing Classic Styles Maibock is mashed at 156. I accidentally undershot this when I brewed it so I was at 153 for about 15 mins until I added enough boiling water to get to 156. I thought it came out just the right compromise between  sweet and dry. The flavor was more like cookie dough but the body/mouthfeel wasn't too chewy. In my experience mash temp is highly dependent on your system. Since this one is at the high end of the range I would set your target there and err on the side of a little too low. Better to have a sweet flavored lager turn out a little too thin than a little too chewy in my opinion.

I've never used CaraPils but most Wyermann specific recipes seem to include it, so I'm probably not the best source. As I mentioned earlier, I get plenty of sweetness out of the Munich I use, so I have no need for additional Crystal. YMMV


512
Beer Recipes / Maibock Recipe
« on: April 05, 2016, 03:37:05 PM »
Looks pretty tasty. I've made a similar one, but I go more like 70/20/10 Pils/Munich/Vienna. I get a little too much cherry flavor out of the Avangard Munich that my LHBS carries so I often cut it with Vienna. If you're using Wyermann  your mix may be more appropriate. Definitely worth playing around a bit with that as I've had drastically different experiences with different Munich malts.

What mash temp are you targeting?

Minerals and pH look right to me. I think Braukaiser has a recipe on this so you may want to check his mineral and pH targets.

513
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My latest peeve....
« on: April 03, 2016, 07:19:43 PM »
Maybe it means the same thing that Juicy Couture means. I'm no expert on that either, but I think it's an Atlantic City dialect that roughly translates to "look at my butt". I'm not sure how that translates to describing flavors in beer, but maybe that was your point?

514
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing a Lager for the first time
« on: April 03, 2016, 03:53:11 PM »
I don't lose any sleep at all. I know my sanitation is good and that I'm going to be pitching a big healthy starter.

Yeah, it's just my OCD tendencies. I've done plenty of batches via slow chill and saved them for months so I'm not concerned about contamination.

To me it just feels like driving 475 miles of a 500 mile trip and then deciding to stop for the night. I'm too close to the finish line to quit.

515
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing a Lager for the first time
« on: April 03, 2016, 01:05:25 PM »
What's the best way to get the wort to 48-50F, set it in the fermentation chamber until you hit that range and then pitch? I never lagered either but I want to start.

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I've had great success with whirlpooling the wort around the immersion chiller (aka the Jamil method). It does require a pump for max impact, but I can chill 6G of boiling wort to 70-80F in 10 mins or less (depending on my water temp).

Then for lagers I switch from tap water on the input to recirculating ice water through a bucket with a sump pump in it. That will get me down to 45 in another 15 mins or so.

I realize I could dump it in the chamber and wait, but I don't sleep well when my wort has no yeast in it

516
General Homebrew Discussion / New Brewer With Some General Questions
« on: April 02, 2016, 10:59:43 PM »
Moving to a secondary vessel after some arbitrary period is old advice that was misappropriated from commercial brewing.

If you have several hundred (or several thousand) pounds of liquid putting pressure on your yeast you have to be careful of autolysis. For homebrewing scale, it's a non issue. Transferring to another vessel is just an opportunity to contaminate or otherwise stunt your fermentation.

Palmer is updating How to Brew to stop people the world over from doing this. Don't worry, I did it for my first several batches because that's what I read too

517
For some lagers I actually start with a 1 gallon test batch, then repitch the yeast from that into a 2.5G and then into a 5. Decanting starter wort makes me sad

518
D-rest is just accelerated by higher temps. If you left it there longer than you usually do and you're not smelling or tasting diacetyl from a warm sample the you're done :-)

519
I brew at night after I put the kids to bed. If I'm really organized I can dough in around 7:45 put them to bed while the mash goes and then start running off about 9.

Seems like I'm usually in the fermentor between midnight and 1, but then I have about an hour of cleanup so it's always at least 2am before I'm done.

520
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing a Lager for the first time
« on: March 30, 2016, 02:42:26 PM »
Yes, I was referring specially to the conditioning/clearing phase. At a high level kettle finings like Whirlfloc help minimize trub transfer from kettle to fermentor. Biofine or gelatin are basically used as "liquid time" to hasten conditioning. If you can lager your beer for months you can achieve this clarity without finings. If you're in a rush, in my experience this is a great solution.


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521
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing a Lager for the first time
« on: March 30, 2016, 12:45:15 PM »
Also given the timeframe you may want to consider using gelatin or some other fining to accelerate clearing before you package. Look at the Brulosophy article on gelatin - it's a great resource.


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522
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 leaked out, beer ruined?
« on: March 29, 2016, 11:55:26 PM »
I experienced the same in the past when breaking in new kegs.

Best advice I ever received was to initially pressurize without clamping down the lid. Just grab whatever you can hold (pressure release valve if ball lock) and then crank the pressure to let the pressure seat the lid. That will allow it to "find its groove". Then if you over pressurize to around 25 psi you can spray and check for leaks. If none, clamp it down, then give the dial a few cranks to lower the pressure and finally purge the headspace. Then you'll be all good with sealing and purging at the same time.


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