I think it should work. the munich isn't as diastaticly powerful as pale malt so if you're using much in the way of non-diastatic adjuncts besides roast grain you might want to include a bit of pale malt for enzymes. Or mash longer
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I'd recommend that you use a pitch rate calculator like mrmalty.com. That should eliminate the guesswork and give you an ideal recommendation for the beer you're brewing.
Hello gentleman, I'm a first time brewer in Rushville, IN. I pitched Safale American yeast into my wort then into my 5 gal. fermenting bucket. Twenty-four hours later it began bubbling. After three or four days it has stopped completely. Tomorrow, Mar. 7 is 7th day fermenting. My question is, should I bottle it tomorrow?
I don't have a hydrometer. All advise and suggestions welcomed.
Before going to the trouble, I'd do a fast ferment test to determine that you actually have some fermentables left in the Old Ale. If there aren't, you can just blend the finished beers to taste.
Is the fast ferment test basically adding a crap load of yeast to see if the gravity changes?
Hooch in a haggis
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This sounds like a fun brew. I may have to give it a go - I use a BIAB set-up but I'm thinking I could transfer some of the wort into a second kettle and boil it down before the main boil. What % do you usually reduce?
I'm worried you may have taken too long to cool your wort in the first place. Perhaps something fell in if it didn't have it mostly covered while in the tub. Definitely get that picture up: it might not be anything bad..
Something like that?
. I like to think about alternatives.
Seems I recall one of my buddies who is RPCV from west Africa somewhere that they used grain husks in adobe bricks for building.
Maybe spent grains from brewing has too much goopy stuffs still in it? ie, not pure husks.
Just blabbing out loud here like a BFI thread, but it seems that stuff might not lend itself to a solid composition? Maybe drying it would render it more useful.
Thanks guys, the bicarbonate was calculated using John Palmer's spreadsheets to hit the desired SRM. I'm new to water treatment. I just read the book Water: A comprehensive guide for brewers and some of Palmer's other stuff within the month as an introduction so I admit I may well be making some rookie mistakes. I basically use beer smith and Palmer's spreadsheet/range guidelines as my guide.
Try Bru'nwater. I get much more accurate results with it than others.
The bjcp just published a scoresheet guide here: http://www.bjcp.org/docs/BJCP_Scoresheet_Guide.pdf
It shows how they are graded and could really help test takers and actual beer judges with their form(s).
I have no clue to your actual question... But I can say the spent grains I spill in my parking lot (live in a condo) seem to dry into concrete on the parking lot... ;-)