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Messages - morticaixavier

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16
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Another Starter Question
« on: April 18, 2014, 08:19:35 PM »
Like so many things, we are working with sub optimal equipment, knowledge, and facilities in the homebrew world

Commercial brewing is the bastardization of homebrewing, not the other way around.  I really feel that they are the ones in the sub-optimal position.
To rephrase something Forest Gump said, maybe both is true at the same time. I love what both said. I wonder what homebrewers said to the first guy who sold a beer.

it was probably a gal rather than a guy.

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: Was it something I did?
« on: April 18, 2014, 11:05:01 AM »
The two major parts of brewhouse efficiency are mash/conversion efficiency and lauter/extraction efficiency. if you carefully measure your grain and your strike water you can use tools on line to calculate a pretty accurate estimation of your mash efficiency. this is where the crush comes in, if that is good you should be pretty close to 100% mash efficiency. The Lauter efficiency will not be close to 100%, well, it might be but not AS close. What you are seeing is the difference between mash efficiency and lauter efficiency. 1.004 is not usual. pretty low actually.

18
All Things Food / Re: Beer Bread revisited
« on: April 18, 2014, 07:47:29 AM »
very nice. now work some spent grain in there and really make the yeasties happy.

19
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is my starter too old?
« on: April 18, 2014, 07:45:55 AM »
I made a 1.5l london ale starter about 3.5 weeks ago. After it settled down i put it in the fridge. I was planning on brewing tomorrow. Should I Make another starter, start over, or just decant and pitch?

wouldn't hurt to make another starter. what are you brewing?

20
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conditioned lager
« on: April 18, 2014, 07:45:17 AM »
Thanks for the suggestions.  I think I will try to make a slurry and save the batch.  I am hoping to avoid oxidation....so quick hands...quick hands. ha.

So two additional questions. 

1. Could I just pick up a vial of whitelabs and and pipette from the vial into the bottles?  I'm thinking I will try to use the same yeast as I don't want any additional yeast flavors.
2. How much yeast are we talking?  1 ml per bottle? 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Live and learn, I guess.

Cheers!

sure a white labs vial will work but you won't use the whole thing. maybe have a starter ready to pitch the rest into. grow it up and stick in the fridge for the next brew day.

I think the proper amount will turn out to be, just some. doesn't really matter how much. it can likely be a vanishingly small amount and still work. 1 ml sounds about right, maybe even more than you need.

by the way, what temp did you condition the bottles at?

21
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC Seattle
« on: April 17, 2014, 03:42:59 PM »
Anyone get score sheets yet?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

no Jim took them all home and is adding quipy remarks before sending them out.  ;D

22
Ingredients / Re: thoughts on a wheat beer(non hefe)
« on: April 17, 2014, 02:33:26 PM »
sounds tasty either way.

23
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Another Starter Question
« on: April 17, 2014, 02:32:25 PM »
I've always been curious what peer review really means. If it means what it sounds like it means, as someone who understands what evidence is, I don't think peer review is evidence.

peer review is the process in which another (or more than one other) expert in the subject matter reviews the procedures and results of a study or experiment for validity. sometimes it will go so far as to mean that another person or persons expert in the same subject matter have validated the results through independent experimentation or study. not perfect but that's the scientific scholarly method for you.

24
Equipment and Software / Re: Torn between purchases
« on: April 17, 2014, 01:45:30 PM »
It might be two weeks or so before I can spend that kind of money. But I'd do have a batch I am brewing tomorrow. I am not worried about this one because it stays at 67-68 degrees in my closet. Have you guys had much luck using a rubber tub and frozen water bottles?

yeah, that's fine. more labor intensive and hands on but that's not a bad thing perse. be aware that the temp can drop quite a bit that way. also be aware that the stick on fermometer thermos will stop working if submerged in water (or at least they used to). with 67f in the closet if you have decent airflow I'd go with an evaporative cooler for now. less possibilty of mess and ideal performance. have the tub with only about 4-6 inches of water in it and put the fermenter in it. drape a cotton t-shirt or towel over the fermenter and pour water over it to wet it. now as long as the air flow is good and the bottom of the cotton is in the 4-6 inches of water it will continue to wick up more water as it evaporates. these types of coolers will get you ~5-10 degree drop from ambient which is more or less exactly what you want if starting at 67-68. plus you don't have to monitor and switch out ice bottles or worry about dropping the temp way too low.

25
Equipment and Software / Re: Torn between purchases
« on: April 17, 2014, 12:12:19 PM »
fermentation chamber, hands down. a mill is nice to have but will not significantly increase the quality of your beer. temperature control will make an orders of magnitude difference in the quality of your beer. it's not even a question.

if you are worried about efficiency most good HBS places, whether local or online, will double crush your grain for you but none of them can keep your beer cool for you.

26
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Another Starter Question
« on: April 17, 2014, 10:58:51 AM »
Those who claim that the use of a secondary fermentation vessel to clear and age beer is out of date and more harmful than beneficial have yet to put forth any real scientific data supporting their thesis.

Nor have you supporting yours.

I do not have to prove my claim.  There is ample peer reviewed scientific data available that shows that leaving beer with the trub is not beneficial to flavor.  It is those who are making claims against this body of evidence that have to support their claim via peer reviewed data from scientifically-executed experiments.

If performed correctly, there is little to no oxygen pickup during racking.  Dissolved CO2 is off-gassing during the racking operation.  CO2 is heavier than air; hence, off-gassed CO2 forms a protective barrier between the surface of the green beer and the air in the secondary fermentation vessel.   Additionally, any oxygen picked up during the transfer will be consumed by the yeast culture and used for respirative reproduction via a phenomenon known as diauxic shift.  Oxidation really only becomes a problem when the yeast culture is in bad health or has been filtered out of the beer.

I don't see anyone claiming NOT using a secondary is beneficial, just that USING one doesn't seem to be beneficial either. You assume racking is done correctly which is not a safe assumption in my experience. you also assume that most brewers, especially new brewers, are able to accurately determine when their beer has reached final gravity, this is also not a safe assumption. The main reason I advise against transfer to secondary is because so many brewers complain about slow or stuck fermentation after racking to secondary on day 3 or 4 because the recipe and instructions said to do it. Combined with under pitching prematurely removing the beer from the YEAST cake (not so much the trub) tends to negatively impact a lot of brews. The protective blanket of co2 argument is not accurate as in a dynamic situation like racking there will be significant mixing of gases in the head space. and remember that often the yeast culture is in less than optimal health in a homebrew situation. Like so many things, we are working with sub optimal equipment, knowledge, and facilities in the homebrew world and we have to take that into account when deciding how we are going to brew and how we are going to advise new brewers with questions.

I am not trying to discourage you from contributing to this conversation because I think that your perspective is important but you can't assume optimal conditions and draw conclusions about best practices from that when the real world situation is not optimal.

27
The Pub / Re: Wanna see some puppies?
« on: April 17, 2014, 08:08:30 AM »
AWWWWWW

28
Hop Growing / Re: Organic Rhizomes vs. Non Organic
« on: April 16, 2014, 10:20:37 PM »
It depends on why you care about organic. if it's just purely for you peace of mind knowing that what you eat/drink is relatively free of pesticides etc. then non organic root stock is fine. if you want to encourage as much commercial organic agriculture as you can because you want to prevent so many pesticides etc. from being sprayed on the earth in general than organic root stock is the way to go. I don't think that one will grow any better than the other. that depends far more on how you take care of them once they are your responsibility.

29
Events / Re: NHC Awards
« on: April 16, 2014, 02:33:44 PM »
well the posted results are the real results. it's possible your cover sheet was mismarked. you could try to contact the local organizer and see if they have any input on it.

30
Events / Re: NHC Awards
« on: April 16, 2014, 02:27:25 PM »
what was your score? it has to be at least 30 to advance.

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