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Messages - morticaixavier

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3271
Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 06, 2013, 10:59:35 AM »
Whoa, those aluminum cam locks are a lot less expensive than the stainless.

Edit:  Millstone, I've heard that aluminum doesn't play well w/ hard cleaners, such as PBW, Oxiclean and Starsan.  Not sure if this is true or not, but have you had any issues using these cleaners with your aluminum cam locks?

I do use all three chemicals in my setup, I also have an aluminum 15 gal HLT and a 20 gal BK along with those aluminum camlocks. When the brew day finishes I pump either Oxi or PBW through all pots and lines, with camlocks attached, for about 30 minutes. I do not do long soaks, hours, with the chemicals. The camlocks don't show any deterioration or pitting, still has some of its shine, not that dull look like the inside of an aluminum pot. I did change out the rubber washer that came with them to silicone O rings from oringsandmore.com, nice fit and no leaks.

tom

I could well be wrong but I am pretty sure that the dull look of the inside of an aluminum pot is the passivation layer and is actually protecting the pot from reactive agents. on any contact surface you want that dull finish.

3272
Equipment and Software / Re: Overkill?
« on: August 06, 2013, 10:52:50 AM »
But I already have the chiller. I saved $7.99!

score!

3273
Beer Recipes / Re: Kona Big Wave Golden Ale Clone
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:15:58 AM »
not had the beer in question but look tasty.

nice and simple.

3274
Equipment and Software / Re: Overkill?
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:13:39 AM »
In the kitchen that's called using Excalibur to peel a carrot

3275
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:12:56 AM »
nice.

Here is the promised artichoke photo



they sure are pretty when the go by.

and some coriander. You can't quite make it out in this picture but they are sort of pearlescent before the are all the way dried.



and finally my wonderful, ever lasting perennial tree collard


3276
In light of my recent thread regarding wlp565 and it's attenuation levels, it got me wondering about natural carb.

How does one determine the amount of gravity points a beer needs to drop to naturally carb? I believe some lambic breweries do this, but how is it calculated? If I want 3 volumes in my Saison, and I expect it to attenuate another 8 points, is there some formula to figure out what kind of co2 that will produce if bottled?

the other half of your answer is the forced (or fast) ferment test or FFT. This takes a sample of the wort and using the same yeast as in the primary fermentation only more of it, and given perfect environment for the yeast to do it's thing, hopes to determine the absolute lowest gravity that beer with that yeast can achieve. This is your true (or as close as can be determined) FG. Now you know that if you bottle at that gravity + ~4 gravity points you are good to go.


3277
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 05, 2013, 03:13:04 PM »
Does anyone out there add water after the mash period is ended, just to attempt to equalize the batch sparging volumes to be run off in the two batch sparges?  If so, that would impact the calculation, using Denny's system - maybe just have a lot of extra sparge water just in case and brew tea with it?

not just for that reason but I will often add some hot water before runoff because I do no-sparge and I don't want the actual mash ratio that high.

3278
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: vigorous fermentation
« on: August 05, 2013, 02:24:59 PM »
by floatys I  mean a layer of cloudy material from the grains, clean then a layer in middle then clean and another at the bottom  before I even pitched. my original plan was primary 1 wk, secondary 3 wk,  bottle conditioning 2-3 wk.  should I pitch more yeast,  then after another week or two secondary?

just don't secondary. let this one ride until two gravity readings taken 3 or so days apart agree and then bottle. Might take two weeks, might take four. Might be done already.

If it has only been a week and it is really done wait another three - five days, then bottle condition for 2-3 weeks.

I can't say if you should pitch more yeast because I don't know what the gravity is right now. I would guess the answer is no but you will have to measure the beer and see.

While you are at it taste it.

Don't be too disappointed if it doesn't taste amazing warm and flat.

3279
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: vigorous fermentation
« on: August 05, 2013, 10:54:38 AM »
the strain was us-04  European ale 11.5 oz package,  not sure on age  and when I put the carboy in water  the temp only want down a couple degrees.  it is still bubbling though just astronomically slower,.  can I still dilute and repitch  when I rack to secondary?

a little under pitched but not much. DON'T MOVE IT TO SECONDARY. if you have under pitched and stressed out the yeast you don't want to them remove most of them from the beer. Let them stay to clean up after themselves as much as possible.

Take a gravity reading. it's the only way to know what is going on in there.

I would not try to dilute anything at this point. Let it work. you've just got a somewhat stronger beer than you intended. Blend at serving time with a smaller beer or sparkly water if you must.

I don't know what you mean by two layers of floatys. but I don't think anything is wrong.

3280
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: August 05, 2013, 09:22:28 AM »
Little Miss Can't Be Wrong - The Spin Doctors

3281
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 565 higher than expected attenuation?
« on: August 05, 2013, 09:18:29 AM »
Well then. Wish I would have known this before bottling. I figured 2 weeks without any movement would be acceptable.  Then bottled a week later so I guess you could say 3 weeks without any movement. 

Should I worry that this hit of corn sugar will make the yeast attenuate even further than the desired carb level?

you should for sure keep a close eye on them. I suspect that they will become over-carbed. try putting one bottle somewhere warm (like the cupboard above the stove) for a day or so. Then chill and pop it open. I suspect you will see some gushing.

I suppose it's possible that it will be fine if you started with a very unfermentable wort. you didn't share recipe details but if there was enough crystal and/or a high enough mash temp you might be okay.

Took a different approach and tried an American-esque Saison. 10 lbs 2 row, we lbs flaked wheat.  Mashed in at 150 degrees, sparged with 180 degree water.

I'de be willing to put a small amount of money on one of two things:
1) You are going to have severely over-carbed bottles in the next couple weeks
OR
2) your thermo is WAY off at mash temps and you actually mashed around 160 and it's done and you won't have over carbed bottles.

either way, monitor and when desired level of carb is achieved chill those bad boys down just as cold as you can. remember to warm them back up to 50ish before serving (my preference, yours may vary)

3282
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 565 higher than expected attenuation?
« on: August 05, 2013, 08:49:28 AM »
Well then. Wish I would have known this before bottling. I figured 2 weeks without any movement would be acceptable.  Then bottled a week later so I guess you could say 3 weeks without any movement. 

Should I worry that this hit of corn sugar will make the yeast attenuate even further than the desired carb level?

you should for sure keep a close eye on them. I suspect that they will become over-carbed. try putting one bottle somewhere warm (like the cupboard above the stove) for a day or so. Then chill and pop it open. I suspect you will see some gushing.

I suppose it's possible that it will be fine if you started with a very unfermentable wort. you didn't share recipe details but if there was enough crystal and/or a high enough mash temp you might be okay.

3283
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 565 higher than expected attenuation?
« on: August 05, 2013, 08:43:20 AM »
First of all, there is a pretty wide range of attenuation for a given yeast strain depending on a whole lot of factors - fermentability of the wort, oxygenation, fermentation temp, etc. If a strain is listed with an attenuation of 75%, then I'd say anything 3-5% above or below that is within a normal range.

Secondly, WLP 565 can easily hit 95% attenuation if you handle it properly. A lot of times there can be a lag of a couple of weeks where it stalls out before it eventually finishes up. Are you 100% sure that it has finished out? I'd be scared as hell to bottle any Saison strain at 1.012 unless it was rock solid at that number for at least 2-3 weeks. Please be very cautious of bottle bombs. Check your bottles frequently, and if you start seeing any signs of overcarbonation, chill them and drink them ASAP.

It held at 1.012 for 2 weeks without moving.  Just out of curiosity, why does WL state a 75% attenuation if it can roll to 95?

attenuation stats on yeast are based on a standardized wort. This provides the user with an ability to compare strains to each other. beyond that they are not useful. Compare a 75% AA yeast to a 65% AA yeast and you can be fairly sure that the first will attenuate more than the second. How much it actually attenuates though depends far more on the wort you pitch it into than the yeast you pitch.

3284
The Pub / Re: Oxygen and liquor
« on: August 05, 2013, 08:01:38 AM »
I think ABV has something to do with it. I had a bottle of the northcoast old stock reserve that took nearly a week to finish and it was just as good on day 5 as day 1. damn that was tasty. perhaps also tannins? anti-oxidants? red wine lasts longer than white (red = anti-oxidants). Oak aged beers last longer than non-oak aged? I don't know if that is true. just a thought. Do dark beers last longer? I know a kolsch can start tasting a little iffy if you don't finish the glass within an hour or so. whereas a nice dry stout can sit and breath for a while and still be quaffable.

3285
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Popping My Homebrewing Cherry
« on: August 05, 2013, 07:55:21 AM »
Thanks so much for the feedback- I do have a quick question. The equipment kit came with small packets of CBrite cleanser (which I'm assuming is for cleanup). I'd like to start the sanitizing process today...is there a product you'd recommend for the stainless steel brew kettle and plastic fermenters?

Thanks!

no need to sanitize your kettle. plastic fermenters get star san or idophore or similar. don't sanitize too far in advance of brew day because it doesn't stay sanitary for long.

I'm not familiar with CBrite but if you look at the package instructions it should be fairly clear. you will need that after the brew day to clean up your kettle and after the batch is fermented to clean out your fermenters. It's like oxiclean so you mix it with hot water and soak/scrub. Be gentle with plastic because it scratches and becomes difficult to sanitize in the future.

all that being said, I am of the somewhat heretical opinion that, short of blatant disregard for common sense, sanitation is less important than temperature control. Figure that part out now.

Sanitation is easy, clean everything so it LOOKS clean, hit with a good cleanser CBRite, PBW, oxi-clean, whatever. and a good sanitizer and your done. but even without these steps, you can make great beer. it just might not stay great for long.

Without good temp control it's hard to make great beer. So look at your home environment. Where will you be keeping this beer while it ferments? It wants to be dark and the temp wants to be steady. If the temp is steady in the low-mid 60's then you are golden. if it's in the 70's you can still be okay with a big tub of water and some ice or even a simple swamp cooler (little tray of water with a cotton towel or shirt that covers the fermenter and sits in the water).

If, like me you live somewhere with stupid hot summers and no AC, and have ambient temps that swing wildly from the low 100's to the mid 50s day to night, you use a fridge with a temp controller or you ferment saisons exclusively.

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