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Messages - morticaixavier

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3316
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Well carbed but no head
« on: October 23, 2013, 01:55:24 PM »
If you pour straight down the middle of the glass from say 6 inches above the rim does a head form? In other words are we talking about head formation or retention.

It could well be the high ABV although that doesn't seem high enough to cause a total lack of foam. I believe pH can cause foam creation issues which is why many sour beers don't foam well.

It's certainly not too little co2.

I would say if no foam forms even from the pour described above you are going to have to look at the recipe.

I suppose it could be the flavoring you are using. Another experiment you could try to narrow it down is to carb the next batch up fully before adding the rootbeer flavouring and see if you get some foam then.

likely ingredients of a rootbeer flavouring extract would include wintergreen oil, and oil of cassia, and who knows what other oils so that could well be having an effect.

If that is the case you might have better luck adding the flavor at a different point in the process. There is a guy on here that makes a coconut milk stout that has actual coconut milk in it and he says he had no head retention problems so maybe see when in his process he adds the fatty stuff.

3317
Beer Recipes / Re: Nov/Dec 2010 Barleywine recipes
« on: October 23, 2013, 11:18:52 AM »
...and religiously control fermentation temp. Slowly raising then holding the temp near the end of fermentation will help drive attenuation and reduce diacetyl/acetaldehyde....

Temperature control is an area that I've not done much with at all. My (unfinished part) basement holds very steady between 68 - 70°F, and that's all I do. Without getting too much off topic, what are some good ways to control fermentation temp without investing in a new refrigerator and temperature controller (or is that it)?

evaporative cooling works pretty well if it is not too humid. This is where you put you fermenter in a tub or shallow pan and cover it with a cotton shirt or towel. The cotton should hang down into a couple inches of water in the tub or pan so that it can wick this liquid up and the evaporation from the shirt will reduce the temp of the fermenter by a couple degrees from ambient. This will also help dump the heat created by the fermentation. Remember your big barley wine fermenting in 68-70 degree ambient will likely have an internal temp at the height of fermentation ~75-80 which is not great.

you can also get a bigger tub and fill it so that the water is close to the line of wort in the fermenter and use ice or frozen water bottles/ice packs to lower the temp of the water.

you can aslo create an insulated space (small box, tub, barrel etc) that you can put ice packs/frozen water bottles in to keep the air cool.

3318
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: October 23, 2013, 07:32:21 AM »
Personally I like yous.  As in... Yous a bunch a bioregionalists! :P

Coool on the barley trials.  If it does not work out, you can always turn the chickens out on it. ;)


Anyone know if you can eat those giant pumpkins?  They are cool for decor, but dumping them seems like a big waste.

you can probably chop them up and feed them to the chickens.  ;D

I had a realization the other day that most of the stuff on earth is actually made of chicken food.

3319
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning a cold plate
« on: October 22, 2013, 10:28:56 AM »
to be clear, neither idophor nor star san are cleaners. the only cleaner you have listed is PBW and I think that if you mixed up some hot PBW and ran that through a couple times it would clean everything out nicely.

3320
The Pub / Re: First Beer Sale (sorta)
« on: October 22, 2013, 10:26:18 AM »
Wow!  Excellent show. Over 100$? 

Is that legal in the USA?
I always thought Denny could auction a keg of his own famous RIPA and generate some coin!

it will be in California Jan 1 2014

3321
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Messed Up Scottish Export
« on: October 22, 2013, 10:24:22 AM »
I'de skip the pumpkin pie filling. the spices would be fine to add to secondary though.

3322
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question about Saison Brett
« on: October 22, 2013, 10:23:00 AM »
how does it taste? that is the only way to really answer your question. I find that you get a nice brett character pretty quick but your situation is different than mine and brett is a fickle beast.

the film is likely from the brett, unless you got some other form of infection as well. and you are fine to leave it for a while, or keg half of it and leave the other half longer.

3323
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: October 22, 2013, 09:35:29 AM »
Add some active compost inside the greenhouse and your cooking with gas.
;D I steamed my sunglasses the other morning turning the pile.

I would love to have a greenhouse/chicken coop combo!
Since I am dreaming, I need a root cellar as well. ::)
 

Whatcha planning for that winter barley?

probably mostly get wasted as I try to figure out malting. that's assuming it actually grows and produces grain  ::) I've got plot about 15X20 to plant ready and waiting so with lots and lots of luck I might see 10 lbs of grain, maybe 20 but I'm really not holding my breath.

3324
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: October 21, 2013, 01:16:08 PM »
I'm glad we're done for the year.
:P, Dang, a whole bushel of poblanos!  Wow.

I too am glad to be about done.  I hauled out the frozen and dead tomato plants this weekend.
Eating some delicata squash.  I like it; not too sweet which is how I find most squash.

Need to get the garlic in the ground.

RIP garden.   Prairie is starting to get green again ....its confused   :o

Crazy year with the intense monsoon here.  All kinds of stuff is re-blooming on the desert.
Got my hay cut. :o 18 October. Amazing, but this is the first dry stretch we have had. Now or never.

Anyone garden 4 season style?  Hothouse, greenhouse?  Not you Punatic. ;D
I got some lettuce last night and thought I should have a greenhouse setup.

I don't have Carl's advantages but I can get a few hardy things through the winter here in northern cali without any assistance, hearty greens like collards, kale, and chard, broccoli, peas. Lettuces are sort of a risk but not a very big one. I'm going to try to get some winter barley in this year if I can get ahold of some seed in the next couple weeks.

Back east in Vermont where I grew up there are a lot of folks getting cold season crops to grow even in the early/late winter months using cold frames and insulated greenhouses.

I did a lot of research at one point on insulating the ground under a greenhouse. You sink that rigid foam insulation board at the perimeter of your green house sloping slightly out. Then put a moisture barrier around the outside of the greenhouse. If you can keep the ground dry (moisture barrier) and reflect some of the heat lost through the soil itself (insulation) you are supposed to be able to keep the ground from freezing even in sub zero weather. With some solar gain during the day you can even keep the ambient temp out of death range for some hearty crops.

Add some active compost inside the greenhouse and your cooking with gas.

3325
Other Fermentables / Re: Juice & Strain Method
« on: October 21, 2013, 11:47:26 AM »

Theory of the DME:
The yeast will eat all the simple sugars from the fruit and hopefully "forget" how to process the maltose of the DME.  This will leave some sweetness behind, and also the dextrins in the DME will leave some body.  I just did two 1 gallon batches of cider, one with DME and one without DME, and the with DME had a better all around taste and body.  It was less tart/dry and some more subtle complexities.  So, this is my scaled up version of the DME version.

Please write back on how this turns out.  If your DME theory is good, wouldn't it work better if you added the DME after you've passed the bulk of your fermentation activity?

I suspect it's the dextrins alone that are adding your mouthfeel, body and sweetness. I still don't think I buy the whole lazy yeast hypothesis.

3326
works now

3327
Ask the Experts / Re: Ask the Experts: Gordon Strong
« on: October 21, 2013, 10:40:53 AM »
Gordon,

Are there any plans within the BJCP to institute a way for a judges ranking to be keyed to the on going quality of their judging?

I have seen in contests where I was stewarding or participating judges with quite high ranking sometimes make glaring mistakes throughout a flight, not simple disagreeing on a particular entry but misapplying guidelines or making comments to others at the table that they have no sense of smell etc.

I am sure this is a complex proposition and the big focus is increasing the pool of available judges but it seems like maintaining a pool of Quality judges would be even more important to the goals of the organization.

Thanks,
Jonathan Fuller

3328
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Correct volume for boil
« on: October 21, 2013, 09:51:45 AM »
I am going to brew a partial extract this morning. The recipe that I am following asks me to steep my grains and boil the extract and hops in 1 1/2 gallons of water and then add 2 gallons of chilled water to the glass carboy and then top up to 5 gallons. Is there anything magic about the 1 1/2 gallons for the steeping and the boil or could I just use 5 gallons since I have a wort chiller?

What I would do is steep in the 1.5 gallons for the designated time, add the additional 2 gallons for the boil and add approximately 1/3 of the extract at the start of the boil and follow the recipe's hop additions. Add the remainder of the extract at the end of the boil. Cool and rack to primary and then top off.

The split extract additions will help maintain a truer color to the beer and prevent some caramelization of the wort. The increased boil volume will also help minimize this as well as you will lose about a gallon to boil off over 60 minutes. If you wanted to do a full boil you would need to reduce the amount of hops due to better utilization in a full boil


I get it all except the part about having to cut back on the hops if doing a full boil. If you boil hops for say 60 minutes, isn't it the time of boil not the boil volume that dictates hops utilization?

the gravity of the solution also affects utilization. a higher gravity wort is less capable of isomerizing the hop acids so you get less IBUs (taste and analysis confirm this) the higher the gravity of the wort.

3329
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 21, 2013, 09:50:16 AM »
you could eliminate/confirm yeast health and actual wort fermentatbility by doing a fast ferment test (or forced ferment test maybe)

take a portion of your wort, or even 'finished' beer and hit it with lots of yeast, like lots and lots. and swirl it like you would a starter and keep it really warm like upper 70's 80's basically make an environment that the yeast will want to be really really active in. when that has all settled down you should be at a real maximum apparent attenuation given the wort and yeast you are using.

If it is lower than you have been seeing consider looking at your yeast health factors. If it is more or less the same as you are seeing in the full batch you know that there is something funky going on in your mash process and your yeast is likely fine.

3330
Beer Recipes / Re: Temperature for Conditioning
« on: October 21, 2013, 08:05:35 AM »
I wouldn't worry then. It may simply be how Hill Farmstead does it. I do like a week of cold conditioning when a beer is finished, really finished and tastes clean a week at ~32 will drop a lot of yeast out and make it even cleaner.

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