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Messages - morticaixavier

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3331
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off flavors in La Petite Orange?
« on: October 13, 2013, 03:05:20 PM »
Didn't see where the orange is supposed to come from.

Is this your first belgian? If so it could well be an unfamiliar yeast character. Belgian yeast can be interesting. It may well drop out after some ageing.


3332
Ingredients / Re: Honey to help dry a saison
« on: October 13, 2013, 03:00:26 PM »
@morticaixavier

What flavor type contribution are you getting from honey in your saisons and how much are your using?

The flavour contribution depends a lot on what type of honey you use. Mostly for me it's blackberry or orange blossom. Blackberry has a distinct blackberry hint to it which is really nice. Orange blossom is more subtle but it's a cross between sweet orange and flowers.

I use ~1 kilo to 40 liters or about 1 lb to 5 gallons. I add it after the first 3-5 days of fermenation but if I forget I have added it later. The saison yeast is not like a british yeast in that once it starts to drop out there is no going back. even if it's been more than a week the fermentation will kick right back into action. I consider honey sanitary by nature so I just pour 1/2 a 2 lb jar into each bucket and let her go.

It's a subtle flavor note. It's not going to jump right out at you. I have as times wondered if it's even worth the money but when I do it with plain sugar I miss it.

I recently found that for a more pronounced honey character an ounce or so of chamomile flowers and leave (bulk chamomile tea) at flame out adds a really intense honey like aroma and flavour. More than honey does in my opinion.

3333
Ingredients / Re: Honey to help dry a saison
« on: October 13, 2013, 09:36:32 AM »

Thanks for all the responses guys.  Having never used honey before I thought it would impart some type of distinctive dryness.

nope, just like sugar on that front.

3334
Ingredients / Re: Honey to help dry a saison
« on: October 12, 2013, 07:20:15 PM »
I wouldn't worry to much about it drying out enough as erock says. But I really like some honey late in fermentation with a saison. I don't worry about table saisons drying out to much. you can always make up for any lack of mouthfeel with higher carbonation. but yeah for drying out purposes plain sugar is way cheaper.

I don't bother dissolving or stirring either. just plop the honey right in primary.

FWIW, I doubt mouthfeel will be much of a problem with 3711. It leaves behind a mouthfeel that is much fuller than what you'd expect in a beer with such a low FG.

very true. I love the way you can make a 5% saison with an FG of 1.000 and it just fills your mouth with every sip.

3335
Ingredients / Re: Honey to help dry a saison
« on: October 12, 2013, 01:38:10 PM »
I wouldn't worry to much about it drying out enough as erock says. But I really like some honey late in fermentation with a saison. I don't worry about table saisons drying out to much. you can always make up for any lack of mouthfeel with higher carbonation. but yeah for drying out purposes plain sugar is way cheaper.

I don't bother dissolving or stirring either. just plop the honey right in primary.

3336
Beer Recipes / Re: Critique my "American Bitter" recipe
« on: October 10, 2013, 02:25:08 PM »
1 oz. of wheat malt is pretty much useless.  I'd leave it out, but leaving it in won't have much affect.  Hops look good to me.  And you might as well call it an APA or AIPA.  I think that's what was throwing Mort off...he expected to see a beer that matched the name.  I'd change the name to match the beer.

yeah that's it. As an AIPA it's probably fine, but I would get in trouble quick if someone says 'here, it's a bitter' and I drank like it was a bitter.

It's probably much simpler to change the name than the recipe  ;D

And that's why I have trouble with a "Black IPA" or a "pale stout"!

Amen,

I say Waltersian Black Ale and...gosh I don't even know what a pale stout would be. cream ale I guess?

3337
Beer Recipes / Re: Critique my "American Bitter" recipe
« on: October 10, 2013, 01:22:28 PM »
1 oz. of wheat malt is pretty much useless.  I'd leave it out, but leaving it in won't have much affect.  Hops look good to me.  And you might as well call it an APA or AIPA.  I think that's what was throwing Mort off...he expected to see a beer that matched the name.  I'd change the name to match the beer.

yeah that's it. As an AIPA it's probably fine, but I would get in trouble quick if someone says 'here, it's a bitter' and I drank like it was a bitter.

It's probably much simpler to change the name than the recipe  ;D

3338
Beer Recipes / Re: Critique my "American Bitter" recipe
« on: October 10, 2013, 12:50:52 PM »
This is such a personal taste issue I hesitate to suggest anything. The recipe is fine.

If I were brewing it I would leave out the acidulated malt and use liquid lactic acid if I needed a pH adjustment. I'm not familiar with cara-vienne but I'm sure that will be fine. It's basically a light crystal malt right?

When I think bitter I think session and 1.058 is not session in my book. I would drop the 30 minute hop addition, move the 60 minute to First Wort and drop enough two row to bring your gravity down to 1.040 then add enough table sugar to get it back up to 1.048 and bump the crystal a little for body and sweetness.

So you see, My suggestions make a more or less totally different beer.  :o

3339
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Clean your bottles !
« on: October 10, 2013, 12:44:57 PM »
Triple rinse after pouring is my method. Fill it about a quarter of the way, shake, empty, repeat 2 more times. Seems to work well.

This is what I have been doing as well, and I believe that I read this technique in Palmer's How To Brew.

After reading everyone's response, is it pretty accepted that that method is inadequate?

it's perfectly adequate... until it isn't. I have not had a problem with the rinse right after use method but I don't really re-use bottles over and over. If it held sour beer I just recycle it. Saison yeast also tends to coat the bottle really really well. All that being said, if you sterilize your bottles in the over before use the beer is not going to get infected from any residue left inside the bottle. possible flavor effects are a different story though.

3340
All Things Food / Re: Peppers
« on: October 10, 2013, 12:40:54 PM »
I loved this time of year when I lived in New Mexico and all the chili roasters were going full blast. The whole world smelled of roasting chilies. 

3341
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit flies in airlock
« on: October 09, 2013, 03:19:24 PM »
fruit flies are attracted to CO2 so the belching airlock is like a landing light for them. They aren't good at swimming though so the liquid should prevent anything nasty from happening to your beer.

That being said fruit flies are amazingly good at squeezing through tiny tiny openings and if there is a way they will likely find their way into your beer so beware! nothing might come of it at first but let that beer at just a little o2 and you may start to get some vinegar growth. This is assuming a fly actually got into your beer which is unlikely.

3342
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking
« on: October 08, 2013, 12:03:53 PM »
I could never become adept at filling a tube with water/sanitizer to start the siphon.  It would always take several attempts and I would make a mess.  Maybe I need to watch someone do it on YouTube or something.

I use an autosiphon.  I clean it and my tubing by doing a PBW soak using a wallpaper tray, then a StarSan soak in the wallpaper tray (I know you don't need to soak in StarSan, but it is easy to immerse it in the tray while I do other things.

It's not too tough really.

1 - Lower your tubing into a bucket of sanitizer ensuring that it is filling completely
2 - Attach one end to the racking cane and cover the free end with your thumb
3 - Put the racking cane into the fermenter and the tubing into a pot or pint glass
4 - Release your thumb and watch science happen right before your eyes.
5 - If steps 1-4 fail, take a swig of booze and start the siphon with your mouth.  ;)
 
When I used this method I dump into a pint glass until all sanitizer was free, I then pull an additional 8oz for testing and tasting.

I only used this method when fermenting in buckets.

this is my method as well. The only difference is I place the racking cane in the fermenter first. Gently placing the tip on the bottom. I also tip the fermenter slightly so that I will get the maximum amount of clear beer out.

3343
Equipment and Software / Re: Directly heating Erlenmeyer flasks
« on: October 08, 2013, 07:24:10 AM »
I'm still a fan of pressure canned starter. Wicked easy. Always waiting for me in the pantry.

yup.

I just captured two new strains of saison yeast a couple weeks ago because I had a few jars of wort in the pantry ready to go. easy peasy.

3344
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: October 08, 2013, 07:17:24 AM »
ahh northern California.

The peas are starting to come up gangbusters, still got a couple eggplants, peppers and tomatoes hanging around. greens, greens, and more greens. A couple potatoes starting to poke their heads up, a few intentional and a few we missed earlier.

Chickens are eating up the excess greens, and scraps and making 4 eggs a day. so my cholesterol is doing well  ::). (nah they mostly forage so it's healthy cholesterol)

3345
Kegging and Bottling / Re: cold crash question
« on: October 07, 2013, 12:44:13 PM »
Hi! is there a big difference if i cold crash at 35ºF instead of 32ºF to precipitate all the yeast, proteins and quit the cold haze? what is the recommended time to do it?

thanks!

can you get to 32? if so I would go for it. if not 35 will work just fine. I usually try to let it go at least 2 days but a week is better.

There is actually math you can do to determine when the finest particles will get from the top of the fermenter to the bottom but I don't remember what it actually is.

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