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Messages - morticaixavier

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Beer Recipes / Re: Temperature for Conditioning
« on: October 21, 2013, 07:37:20 AM »
and 52 isn't going to help much with clarity anyway. Are you sure it's not saying to ferment at 52 and then cold condition for a week?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 21, 2013, 07:36:18 AM »
I've not noticed a problem sparging hot and getting good attenuation. On the tannin front, if you can acidify your sparge water somewhat you will avoid extracting tannins even with very hot water, my sparge water is just under a boil when I turn off the heat so probably 180+ when it hits the grain.

Equipment and Software / Re: Directly heating Erlenmeyer flasks
« on: October 21, 2013, 07:30:59 AM »
Sure. I put 3 oz of DME in each quart jar. I fill with warm water to an inch from the top. I wipe off the mouth and put a new canning lid on. I shake till there's none stuck to the bottom. I adjust the lid ring to finger tip tight. From there follow your pressure canner instructions. I process mine at 20 psi for 15 min.
I usually make this on a non brew day and can up a case or two.

Wort ends up about 1.035 which is great for building buddies. On the day I make my starter I sanitize my flask, stir bar, a funnel, and a chunk of foil. I put the yeast in and a couple quarts of premade wort. Bingo.

I actually do this even when I'm not planning on storing long term, minus the pressure part. I just process in a water bath. If you do it a night or two ahead of time it's perfectly safe to leave it on the counter or pop it in the fridge.

Or mash a couple extra pounds on the next AG brew and run off the last bits into quart jars and pressure can. If you are making a 1.050+ beer you probably don't even have to add any grain, just run an extra gallon of near boiling water through your grain after your last batch (or last runnings)

Equipment and Software / Re: How to tell volumes in opaque vessels
« on: October 20, 2013, 05:10:02 PM »
WHy dont you calibrate a stick or some such on your BK to know how much is in it before you chill?  then just calculate how much wort you lose to hoses etc with water and you are there.

+1.  My method. Cheap and effective.

except he wants to measure beer out of a fermenter into a keg.

Equipment and Software / Re: 70qt coleman extreme dead space
« on: October 20, 2013, 01:03:32 PM »
I don't think it's more than a cup if you tilt the far end up a couple inches. It does depend on your level of patience though as it will keep trickling out for a while after I call it done.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Change in WLP007 Behavior (washed yeast)
« on: October 19, 2013, 05:15:11 PM »
if you are washing you are likely getting the least flocculent cells carrying over each iteration so it's not too surprising that it's getting less chunky.  If you want the chunky behavior start over with a fresh culture. Or you could let it ride and see if you can develop your own house yeast.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: combining old yeasts
« on: October 18, 2013, 01:27:02 PM »
should be fine. if the starter is active and you see growth. hard to say just how many cells you have but if you are doing a pretty low gravity brew it'll likely be fine.

Equipment and Software / Re: How to tell volumes in opaque vessels
« on: October 18, 2013, 09:12:29 AM »
If you had crashed the beer cold enough to start with that should work but if it's close to ambient it would probably not work as well.

Equipment and Software / Re: How to tell volumes in opaque vessels
« on: October 18, 2013, 09:00:19 AM »
OK, admittedly the answer is probably 'You can't,' but we're a creative bunch.

The specific issue is that I recently bought a stainless conical from Stout Tanks.  I have always used gallon marks on my Better Bottles or my Speidel fermenter to see when I need to shut off the transfer from the fermenter to the keg so as to not have beer bubble out of the pressure relief valve on the corny keg.  The issue is that I want to do all my transfers with no exposure to air, so I can't just look inside.

So now as I see it, the only way to be sure of that is to watch the volume going into the conical from the boil kettle - one step removed hence a greater chance of mistakes.

I know this isn't a critical issue, but I have some time to work out the details of using the conical since I can't use it until I purchase an upright freezer for a fermentation chamber.  How do you all make sure of the volume going into your keg from a conical?

put the keg on a scale? watch the weight till it hits ~40lbs less the tare weight of the empty keg (with connection to the conical in place).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Puree vs. Autolysis
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:55:05 PM »
This is what we used:  One can roughly split between two carboys.

I've always added them while fermentation was evident, but like Trey said, we didn't get them in quick enough.  I would have assumed introducing more sugar would have roused the yeast.  I don't have the OG but we mashed at around 155, IIRC.

it might have but 1 can in 10 gallons could have done it's think in a couple hours. you wouldn't have the same kind of lag period as when your first starting out.

Ingredients / Re: Gimme some sugar!
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:52:37 PM »
I brewed a beer once years ago using 100 percent maple sap as the liquid. Wasn't good but I did it. Not sure there was much sugar in it.

well about 1/20th as much as maple syrup right? so 3.5% or so?

I've often considered this and I think I would want to use partially boiled sap instead of straight.

Ingredients / Re: Gimme some sugar!
« on: October 17, 2013, 02:55:16 PM »
I've used:

evaporated cane juice (natural sugar)
Maple syrup
Coconut sugar
Date sugar

I guess that's about it. suddenly I feel so un-experimental  ;D

**Edit to Add **

also plain old brown sugar (dark and light)and molasses although I don't know if that counts.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Puree vs. Autolysis
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:31:22 AM »
well, I'm not sure what you expected to see. How long had the beer been at 1.020? had the yeast dropped clear? What was the OG, if us-05 stopped at 1.020 it must have been a pretty big beer to start with. Is it possible you missed the renewed fermentation? it probably didn't take very long as you weren't adding much sugar.

To answer your actual question it's not going to hurt anything to add more yeast now. it might not accomplish anything either though.

Autolysis is not something you need to be concerned with given the time periods we are looking at.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Globs in Secondary Fermentation
« on: October 16, 2013, 09:28:23 PM »
Thanks morticaixavier (go Aggies!). Smells like good, a little fruity. Haven't tasted it yet.

sounds good. nothing like a big hoppy mess. enjoy.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Globs in Secondary Fermentation
« on: October 16, 2013, 09:21:59 PM »
can't be 100% sure but it looks like yeast floccing out to me. How does the beer smell/taste? likely it's fine.

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