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Messages - morticaixavier

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3361
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: US-05 at low temp
« on: August 12, 2013, 09:02:12 AM »
Quote
could just be starch/protein haze instead of yeast. or perhaps the us-05 is just slowly chewing away at those dextrins. Majorvices posted about having issue with us-05 over carbing in the bottles for him regularly. maybe it's more capable of metabolizing more complex sugars/starches then we generally think?

Thanks Morticaixavier, I agree this is looking like a starch/protein issue.  The FG stayed for two weeks prior to bottling - so I'm pretty sure not much fermentation was going on, though.  Drank some over the weekend and it tastes and smells terrific (about 5.5 oz hops in this small beer, about half chinook).  I'm wondering how this might relate to the experimental 160 degree mash temp - though I did do a successful iodine test because of these exact concerns.  Did the high temp not play well with the rye proteins, perhaps?  The recipe included 8 lbs MO, 1 lb Munich, 1 lb rye, and 8 oz C20.  I'll just have to see if it settles out in the bottles.  I plan on sharing it with the band soon, so it should move quickly, anyway :)

The rye will give you cloudiness (protein) and the hops will give you cloudiness. It's not the mash temp though I mash at 162 for my small beers and the drop bright just fine. I use a bunch of Irish moss in the boil. did you dry hop?

3362
Ingredients / Re: fruit puree
« on: August 12, 2013, 07:28:37 AM »
What are they going to pair it with?

3363
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Have I botched my barleywine?
« on: August 10, 2013, 01:21:43 PM »
It may have been that bottle. I opened another that I chilled and it seems fine.

It does bring up another question, though. Was there something to the fact that the brewer from the class specifically said for me to chill one for 2 weeks? The first one (chilled for 2 weeks) did not have any sediment try to sneak out into the glass, but the one I opened yesterday (chilled for 2 days) did. I made sure today to pour it without getting any sediment from the bottle. Could that have contributed to the 'off' taste?

yeah that could well have.

COuld the flavour have been brothy or meaty? couild be some yeast autolysis flavours that are confined to the actual yeast 'cake' in the bottle.

Could just be yeasty bite.

3364
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Mould Issue
« on: August 10, 2013, 01:06:00 PM »
It's probably cross contamination from prior beers with WLP670 which I use a lot.
I will label my current buckets "Farmhouse" and get some new ones and a new siphon.

I just did this myself. Except i've been bitten by the sour bug hard enough at this point that I just labeled the two new buckets 'Clean'

3365
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Mould Issue
« on: August 09, 2013, 10:11:36 AM »
+1 to pellicle and getting fresh plastic. Acetobacter?
Reserve a few ounces of wort from the next batch and do a wort stability test to make sure the contamination is not happening on the wort production side of the process.

Do you open the fermenter often to take samples, etc?

I don't open them at all.  I don't think Acetobacter simply because there is no smell or taste of vinegar at all but maybe a different species than acetii.  No sourness etc. 
Would it really be as thick as you see on the starter if it's a pellicle?

My common practice is to boil at least 60 mins and then straight into a clean, sanitized fermenter.  Depending on the batch size, I usually pour from the kettle directly into the bucket, no siphon or anything.  I am not sure how bacteria would make it through the boiling process.  But, I do know that if i leave the 1/2 gallon of wort that I haven't used yet, It will likely end up with this in a couple weeks.  I can leave it but I have opened it a couple times already to get wort for a starter so I can't say it couldn't have gotten in at that time. 

I'll get new plastics (can't afford stainless, hate glass), siphon etc and see what happens.

some odd neutral brett species or something. given enough time you might notice some unusual yeast flavours, I have a saison right now that I went to keg last weekend but when I pulled the lid of... boom pellicle. I wasn't totally surprised as the yeast blend I pitched had a little brett in it. But the character is almost not noticeable in that beer at this point. just a very soft and light flavor. I'm going to keg it up soon but I wanted to see if it would drop any lower.

3366
Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 09, 2013, 08:36:23 AM »


I suppose you could mix up some DME or LME with enough water to prevent it from instantly scorching and then caramelize that. if you used the MO extract might work pretty well

That is perfect!  If you need to caramelize some wort, start with an extract that is partially rehydrated.  Since the real time is spent dehydrating the initial wort so that it can be heated to caramelization temperature, starting with a concentrated wort takes that step out of your way.  Caramelization would only take a few minutes if you start with concentrated wort. 

Brilliant!

**blush**

3367
Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 09, 2013, 07:40:11 AM »
I suppose as a one pot alternative, you could pull off a gallon of wort early in the mash and boil like crazy in the kettle while the mash finishes. This is figuring that with well modified malt most conversion is done pretty quickly, so you'd be safe pulling a gallon after 30 minutes.

^ I like this idea.

I've heard pro brewers talk about getting their kettle blazing hot before starting the runoff to achieve some carmelization (for lack of a better term).

It would take some care to do this without scorching on a direct fire kettle. You could probably get the kettle hot during vorlauf and then cut the heat right before starting runoff. Stir like mad until you cover the bottom, then crank 'er up again. Periodically rotate the kettle on the burner to discourage hot spots.

I have a "sort of" colandria so this wouldn't work on my set up. We are getting a 2 bbl direct fired kettle so I may try it for my commercial set up down the road. Too bad there's not just an extract like a Belgian candi syrup you can just add.

I suppose you could mix up some DME or LME with enough water to prevent it from instantly scorching and then caramelize that. if you used the MO extract might work pretty well

3368
Going Pro / Re: Brewing for food commercially
« on: August 09, 2013, 07:37:30 AM »
Interesting hypothetical question :o  I think you would not have to have a license. Here's why. Let's say you made your beer bread or beer battered fish and chips with commercial beer.   Since technically you are "serving" beer... Would you need an alcohol license and be required to buy your beer through a distributor since you are a "commercial" enterprise? Pretty ridiculous. The other technical point is that the food products wouldn't contain any alcohol. The alcohol would be cooked off...thus you aren't selling alcohol. I agree with your wife the beer is an ingredient....homebrew or commercial.

While logically that would make sense but we are taking about the government. I certainly think a licenses would be needed. If you use commercial beer you are buying it from a company that already has a licenses and meets government regs.  It's not just about the alcohol, it's also about insuring that a food product meets regs.

there are 0 federal food safety regs regarding beer production. so long as they get their tax money they are happy. There may be local food safety regs and they may or may not apply to a brewery but they will for sure apply to a bakery.

3369
Going Pro / Re: Brewing for food commercially
« on: August 08, 2013, 02:32:40 PM »
something to consider is that it's not actually that difficult or expensive to get licensed as a brewer. The barriers to entry into the industry have to do with other economic factors of starting up and making a living from the beer you brew. The federal licensing doesn't cost a dime. The only expenditure associated with it is the brewers bond. State and local fees vary but are often not all that large. Vermont for example is around $150.00. Calfornia, around $200.00.

3370
Equipment and Software / Re: Blichmann burner first impression
« on: August 08, 2013, 01:50:13 PM »
They are the same; or so close I cant tell the difference. My first burner was the bayou sp10. Lasted about 12+ yrs before the cast iron port just crumbled where the gas line ties in. Bought a banjo burner thinking it would fit the stand. It didn't. Bought a Blinchman cause that's what my LHBS had in stock and noticed right away it was the same burner as the new banjo I had at home. So, bought it off the shelf and sold the extra on to a buddy.

Don't know who actually casts the burner, but it appears he's selling to both Bayou and Blinchman.

reading the product description on northern brewer it seems to be that the blichman is all stainless while the kab4 is cast iron. I don't know if this is actually true but either it is and that explains the price difference or it isn't and northern brewer is doing some serious false advertising.

3371
Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 08, 2013, 01:42:50 PM »

That's basically what I did. All together was well over a 4 hour boil.

if you wanted to shorten that time you can boil in a vessel that is wide and shallow allowing faster evaporation. that is the part that takes so long and it's not doing anything for you but wasting fuel. once the water concentration gets low enough the flavor development is fairly quick.

So... if I could acquire a hugely-oversized wok and a powerful burner, that might just work. Although it would require a lot of stirring and watching.

at a 5 gallon batch scale when you are only boiling down about 1 gallon you could do it in a big roasting pan on the kitchen stove.

3372
Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 08, 2013, 12:58:11 PM »
I'll probably just try it with specialty malts if I brew it again. Don't really care for taking a break in the brew day to boil a side job several hours.

Can you just keep boiling the side car until it's concentrated enough? I mean, you take the first runnings, boil it and boil it and boil it. At the same time, do your last runnings like normal, chill it, let it hang in the fermenter. Then when the syrup is done, dump that into the fermenter? Then pitch yeast if it's a good temperature?

I ask because I'd like to try this without the brew-day break.

That's basically what I did. All together was well over a 4 hour boil.

if you wanted to shorten that time you can boil in a vessel that is wide and shallow allowing faster evaporation. that is the part that takes so long and it's not doing anything for you but wasting fuel. once the water concentration gets low enough the flavor development is fairly quick.

3373
Beer Recipes / Re: 60 schilling
« on: August 08, 2013, 12:23:47 PM »
I'll probably just try it with specialty malts if I brew it again. Don't really care for taking a break in the brew day to boil a side job several hours.

Can you just keep boiling the side car until it's concentrated enough? I mean, you take the first runnings, boil it and boil it and boil it. At the same time, do your last runnings like normal, chill it, let it hang in the fermenter. Then when the syrup is done, dump that into the fermenter? Then pitch yeast if it's a good temperature?

I ask because I'd like to try this without the brew-day break.

don't see why not. you could even pitch yeast and then add the concentrate after.

3374
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: US-05 flocculation
« on: August 08, 2013, 09:38:35 AM »
Jumping back to this thread for a general US-05 question.  As noted above, 05 has always given me great results.  My most recent batch (a low-gravity, high dextrine session rye IPA) did not drop clear after three weeks.  I bottled and will just sit it out I guess, but I'm curious why this might have happened.  Was it this particular recipe?  Was it this pack of yeast?  Did I manage to infect it with a wild yeast or something else? (tasted fine - but that doesn't say much yet).  Final gravity was 1.015, so it had some viscosity - and the rye no doubt added to that as well.  Is that enough to slow settling that much?

could just be starch/protein haze instead of yeast. or perhaps the us-05 is just slowly chewing away at those dextrins. Majorvices posted about having issue with us-05 over carbing in the bottles for him regularly. maybe it's more capable of metabolizing more complex sugars/starches then we generally think?

3375
Beer Recipes / Re: House IPA search, round three
« on: August 08, 2013, 09:36:34 AM »
@ klickitat jim - What is your typical BU/GU on your IPAs? Do you use that ratio to track the movement of the bitterness up or down, or do you just add hops until it tastes right? Mine are right around 1.200-ish (BeerSmith using Tinseth) and while I personally think that's pretty high, I could still see a little more bitterness as being welcome in my IPAs.

If you have a BU:GU ratio that high and your still looking for a little more bitterness you could try bumping your sulfate up way way high. like 250-300ppm

THIS^^^^  Try it the easy empirical way to see if you like it...add 1-2 tsp. of gypsum to the kettle.

Or you can even dose the beer with gypsum in the glass to experiment with levels.

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