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Messages - morticaixavier

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3436
All Grain Brewing / Re: Rather than doing a decoction...
« on: June 19, 2013, 08:48:05 AM »
guess I need a bigger pressure cooker  ::)

mine is much smaller than that.

Mine is the Presto 23-quart and it's plenty big enough...

http://www.amazon.com/Presto-01781-23-Quart-Pressure-Canner/dp/B0000BYCFU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371655986&sr=8-2&keywords=presto+pressure+cooker

Yeah, the one I have right now is only a 6qt or maybe 8. I imagine though that a big pressure cooker should be an easy purchase to justify. Especially as the garden starts to come in.

3437
All Grain Brewing / Re: need help converting a recipe to no- sparge
« on: June 19, 2013, 08:29:14 AM »
you will likely have to change the efficiency settings. do you mean no sparge or first runnings? these mean two different things to me at least.

no sparge means that you don't run off, re-fill and run off again. essentially you don't rinse the grain at all. When I do no sparge I include a 'mashout' step that brings my water/grist ratio up really high, like 6-7 liters per kilo (about 3.5 qt/lb) then runoff. I get around 67% brewhouse eff doing this.

First runnings only means to me that you are building a partigyle recipe and not doing a second runnings beer. In that case you mash with your normal water:grist ratio and runoff whatever is there. If I calculate the brewhouse efficiency on the first runnings beer ONLY on a partigyle brew I get ~52-55%.

I don't really see the difference here.  The only reason most partigyle beers use a "normal" water to grist ratio is that the first runnings beer is usually something big like a barleywine.  If you're doing a first runnings beer for something with lower OG, your water to grist ratio is going to be higher but you'll still need about the same amount of total liquor to hit your desired volume (adjusting for absorption differences).  You don't want to go too thin, so the mashout step is a good idea for anything above 2.5 qt/lb or so.

true, it depends on the gravity of the recipe. that is the main difference. However if you are calculating your efficiency that is what it primarily depends on in my experience.

When I am doing no-sparge it is for a small to medium beer. I'm not leaving a lot of sugar behind at that point. If I do no-sparge on a big beer though I am leaving enough sugar behind to make another whole batch of beer. so perhaps a difference in degree rather than kind but I still see a pretty significant difference.

So lets say this...

If at a high but not too high water:grist ratio you can reach your preboil volume, accounting for all boil off and grain absorption that your overall efficiency will likely be lower than if you can/have too add additional 'mash out' water to meet your volume needs.

3438
All Grain Brewing / Re: need help converting a recipe to no- sparge
« on: June 19, 2013, 07:58:55 AM »
you will likely have to change the efficiency settings. do you mean no sparge or first runnings? these mean two different things to me at least.

no sparge means that you don't run off, re-fill and run off again. essentially you don't rinse the grain at all. When I do no sparge I include a 'mashout' step that brings my water/grist ratio up really high, like 6-7 liters per kilo (about 3.5 qt/lb) then runoff. I get around 67% brewhouse eff doing this.

First runnings only means to me that you are building a partigyle recipe and not doing a second runnings beer. In that case you mash with your normal water:grist ratio and runoff whatever is there. If I calculate the brewhouse efficiency on the first runnings beer ONLY on a partigyle brew I get ~52-55%.

3439
All Grain Brewing / Re: Rather than doing a decoction...
« on: June 19, 2013, 07:49:16 AM »
guess I need a bigger pressure cooker  ::)

mine is much smaller than that.

3440
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What should I offer this guy?
« on: June 18, 2013, 10:01:39 PM »
I'd start with the scrap value of stainless steel and tell the guy that you will not charge him for hauling them away.

My guess is this guy does not know the value of what he has, and is hoping for the best.  He just wants to make some money off of something that's collecting dust and taking up space.

Hell, he may take $100 for the pair and think he got over on you.

If you get them for scrap price, and they turn out to be useless, you will still be able to recoup your investment.

He asked you to make an offer.  Don't be in a hurry to give money away unnecessarily.

+1, this. he's not going to run away no matter how low you go. If he had that many buyers he would have named a price to beat.

3441
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Water
« on: June 18, 2013, 03:52:22 PM »
If the beer tastes good then don't worry about it. If it seems too minerally try brewing a batch with distilled water.

3442
All Grain Brewing / Re: Rather than doing a decoction...
« on: June 18, 2013, 09:27:40 AM »
When you do a decoction, you are producing melanoidins at boiling temps, as the decoction is not boiled long enough or hard enough to concentrate. I don't boil the decoctions too hard, as I don't want scorching to happen.

Pressure cooker decoction, baby :)  No constant stirring, no scorching

tell me more

3443
Hop Growing / Re: Wilting Hops
« on: June 18, 2013, 09:27:18 AM »
IIRC it's not recommended to plant hops in a pot.  That the roots grow as long as the vines.  Is there a place you can transplant them in the ground?

Dave

this may be something of an exaggeration. Hops do have extensive root systems but I don't think they grow 20 feet+ deep. very very few plants have root systems that deep.

3444
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hot Side Aeration
« on: June 17, 2013, 02:30:59 PM »
It seems this would be an incredibly easy test to make. run off into two kettles and whip the beejeesus out of kettle one with a wire wisk then let it set for 30 minutes to an hours. leave the other still the same amount of time and boil both. If you want to get really scientific about it split the post boil into 4 separate fermenters and whip the beejeesus out of two post boil, pre-cooling.

at least one of those three portions that have been whipped should fairly quickly show signs of HSA.

3445
They're racking on top of bagged coarse ground Kona after fermentation. The beer has great coffee aromatics and I'd say it's certainly the most forward flavor in the beer. I'm liking the 4oz number. I think I'll boil a hop bag, add the "dry beans" and chuck that in the keg. Maybe bottle when the flavor is right? Or do you think flavor extraction will max out at some point?

I would monitor. Cold steeped coffee is not supposed to get bitter because you aren't extracting tannins or acids from the beans to nearly such a degree but I like the bag idea. Tie it with flat unflavoured dental floss so you can pull it if you so decide.


I use about 2 oz in a single 20 oz serving of coffee but that is the only ingredient there and I am counting on all the flavor and body to come from that coffee. (I did the math at one point and my cup of coffee from home costs me the same as a cup from starbucks. but I figure I use close to twice as much coffee in mine so it's still a bargain  ;D)

3446
Going Pro / Re: O2 Carbonation Stone Sizing
« on: June 17, 2013, 01:39:58 PM »
I would think you would need a spare to catch vorlauf while you empty the other pitcher.

That's how I did it pre-pump.

I batch sparge so it's a little different, but I just stop the runoff and pour it back then start running off again.

3447
2.1 oz rather than lbs. doesn't seem like enough now.

(25lbs*16)/(30bbl*31gallons)=.43 OZ per gallon or 2.1 oz

I would assume greater 'utilization' on the larger system, similar to hops. Plus the homebrewers ability to ignore cost for all intents and purposes and go with at least 4 oz

3448
Hop Growing / Re: Wilting Hops
« on: June 17, 2013, 12:56:29 PM »
I'd agree with the nutrient deficiency, except that you said you used miracle gro potting soil. That usually has fertilizer added into the mix.

It looks like you may have planted in a plastic bucket. Do you have enough drainage holes in the bottom so that the roots aren't sitting in water? Most roots need air and won't do well if constantly submerged.

this would be my second guess... given your response, maybe my first now. take it off the plate and let it drain. Hops like lots of water but they don't like having wet feet.

3449
Hop Growing / Re: Wilting Hops
« on: June 17, 2013, 11:50:56 AM »
you might also have some deficiencies going on. the pale green between the veins is, IIRC sign of a nitrogen deficiency. Try some fish emulsion used in the next watering and also as a spray on the leaves.

3450
Beer Recipes / Re: Bourbon barrel porter recipe formulated
« on: June 17, 2013, 09:55:42 AM »
sounds really good. looks a lot like my porter recipe, except I think I didn't use any roasted/black barley. the munich is really the bomb in this style. I mean I love munich malt anyway, put it in almost everything, but this style particularly really benefits from the rich fruity maltiness.

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