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Messages - morticaixavier

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3451
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 12:34:22 PM »
I agree with all of the above.  However it is unimportant if you are brewing with Extract.  It really only applies to all-grain brewing since the DMS is gone out of extract.

don't the precursors begin to reform once you get the wort above the magic temp? or is that another myth?

Morticai, You are seriously beyond my experience level, but my understanding is that the precursor to DMS, which is SMM is entirely converted in a 90 minute boil.  I'm sure that the process of getting DME or LME goes way beyond what it takes to convert all the SMM to DMS and then blow that off.  However, I always take the safe route and defer to those more advanced than I.

I am pretty sure that anything I know about this is heresay from this forum.

In fact, here is a discussion about this very thing.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=33.0

I only in the last year made the move from the stove with a 4 gallon pot to the garage with a 15 gallon pot and never noticed any off taste before since I always brewed with the lid off.  I do partial mash....and usually do IPA's  which i have never noticed any off tastes.   But recently have made a couple of pale ale and they have all had an off flavor that i can't put my finger on.  It almost has a "burnt" type flavor...

 I do usually leave my lid cracked or the pot tends to want to boil over...but condensation does from and drips back in.....looks like my methods have changed!


What is your batch size?  I boil 40 liter batches (~49 liter preboil for a 90 minute boil) in a 50 liter pot and manage to avoid the worst of the boil overs with flame control. You really only need to see the wort turning over, it doesn't have to be leaping out of the pot.

3452
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 12:14:09 PM »
I agree with all of the above.  However it is unimportant if you are brewing with Extract.  It really only applies to all-grain brewing since the DMS is gone out of extract.

don't the precursors begin to reform once you get the wort above the magic temp? or is that another myth?

3453
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling with fresh yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:16:29 AM »
+1 to Denny. the bottle bombs were not because you added yeast.

One benefit to using champagne yeast over us-05 is there is very little chance champagne yeast will attenuate MORE than your primary yeast in barley beer. It's just not that good at the longer, more complex sugars.

That being said, it hardly matters in this case because your mixed yeasts and bugs will have eaten everything available and only that sugar you supply will be available.

3454
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:13:35 AM »
Off.  Always.  For the DMS reasons stated above.

If boil-off is too great, you can split the difference and leave it partially on.

or turn the fire down.

Lid off, mostly for avoidance of DMS, partially because I don't have a lid for my kettle.

I cover with foil while chilling.

I have been thinking about covering while coming up to a boil to speed things up a little.

3455
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:11:57 AM »
don't even need to wash it really.

3456
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Marshmallow Root Powder?
« on: September 16, 2013, 04:35:39 PM »
Well it does not smell or taste anything like marshmallow cream that you put on your fluffer nutter:) It is a really fine dark tan powder with a herbal taste. Not much help i know. Had 3 people taste it and they couldnt put a finger on what the taste was. 
From what i have found Marshmallow root contains about 37% starch, 11% mucilage, 11% pectin, flavonoids,  phenolic acids, sucrose, and asparagine.

I am going to make a Smores Porter with it.

you would want to add vanilla to make it smell/taste more like the candy/confection. course the confection doesn't taste anything like marshmallow root because it's not used in the production. It's just gelatin, sugar, and modified food starch.

3457
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting yeast
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:29:32 PM »
Maybe just oversize your starter and harvest from that

+1!  I make a starter 500ml larger than the size starter I need.  If I need a 2L starter, I'll make a 2.5L starter and pour all but 500ml.  Set that extra 500ml in the fridge to let settle.  Take a mason jar with 1/4 - 1/2 filled w/ water and microwave for 2 minutes to sanitize the water and jar.  Put a sanitized lid on the jar and let cool in the fridge.   Then take the extra starter, pour out most of the liquid and leave just enough to mix up the yeast on the bottom and pour into the mason jar and put into the fridge.  Next time I need the yeast, I make another starter and make it 500ml more and repeat the process.  Clean yeast every time and much easier than washing yeast from a carboy.

Take it one step further and make one big (5 liter?) starter when you get some new yeast. decant and pitch an appropriate volume of slurry and save the rest as you describe, now make a starter from a dollop of that each time you need one and you've got a clean 1st generation population to propagate from.

3458
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: September 16, 2013, 01:20:36 PM »
Denny - I tried to get my strike temp too be 170 in my kettle so that when I transferred it using a one gallon metal jug I would lose a few degrees to be about 166 so that I could get it to 151 after adding grain. I was at about 156 after stirring for half a minute, then I stirred some more and added some pieces of ice to lower to about 152, after stirring for another half a minute.

VinS, I did pre-heat my cooler with 1 gallon of boiling water that left in sealed, emptied just before adding strike water.

Kramerog, I used 1.75 qt/pd so I guess I could go to 2 qt/pd to limit, though I probably won't have to do much of a sparge on that I suppose.

I stir for about 5-10 minutes till I am getting consistent temp readings throughout the mash. Actually I stir till I am not seeing any more dough balls and that also tends to result in a consistent mash temp. If you are adding a couple degrees to your strike temp you don't really need to pre-heat with separate water, add the strike water and close up the tun for a couple minutes. Plastic will pre-heat very quickly.

3459
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:06:24 PM »
Thats true, I did add that, and opening and briefly stirring may have resulted in some of that. I was just wondering, if you stir at begging of mash in and you take temp, it will still drop more correct given that it takes time for strike water and grain to mix and create one solid temp. Should I strike slightly high with a reading of 154 if I want to hit 151? given it takes time for grain/water mix.

If you have stirred everything in really well the temp should not drop much more than your measurement. Do you see steam escaping around the lid on cold brew days? if so cover the whole thing in some heavy blankets and see if that helps. Add the midnight wheat right before you sparge instead of in the middle of the mash and it will matter even less than KRAMEROG stated.

3460
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Beer Yeast for Bread?
« on: September 16, 2013, 08:00:33 AM »
I've not yet used yeast from a batch of finished beer in bread but I was out of bread yeast and had a packet of us-05 and used that. no noticeable difference from using regular bread yeast.

3461
Ingredients / Re: One pound of cascade hops.
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:48:20 PM »
It's funny to thing about all those centuries when people didn't have vacuum sealers and how the hops were always terrible.  ;D Dry them wrap them well in plastic and foil and freeze them and they will be fine for a year or more. If they start smelling cheesy then compost them but it's not really a big deal if you can't  vacuum pack them.

It's really no different than thinking about all the infected beer people used to drink.  Tastes were different, there was nothing to compare it to, and stale, infected beer with cheesy hops was better than no beer at all.  I mean, some people think Moosehead and Corona are supposed to taste like that!

i'll grant you that but I will also say that there is a practical limit to how paranoid you need to get here. There is good evidence that without some oxidation hops will not develop all the flavour components we are after. Particularly the noble type hops. My point was more along the lines of relaxing a little. pick the hops dry them as gently as you can (This might take a few days, that's okay) and use them in a reasonable amount of time. If you can vacuum seal them then do. If you can't, remove as much air as you can and keep them as cold and dry as you can. It's not like hops turn to cheesy cardboard after a week or even a month. I regularly keep an open bag of hops in the freezer for a couple months wrapped in plastic then foil and have no problem. I just retired a bag of 1 year old amarillo that had been in a paper bag in a plastic bag in my freezer. They were cheesy but only slightly. They went in a bag with some 2009 harvest saaz I am using in lambic type beers.

**EDIT to add at least one reference, however iffy and singular**
"Noble “Spicy” — Hop growers throw the term “noble” around. Technically the term refers to a set of German and Czech hops, Hallertau, Tettnanger, Spalt, and Saaz. The noble hop character is spicy with additional complexity from oxidized oils and beta acids"

http://www.netplaces.com/home-brewing/hops-putting-the-bitter-in/not-all-bitterness-is-the-same.htm

3462
Ingredients / Re: One pound of cascade hops.
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:34:01 PM »
Honestly, with no way to vacuum seal, you can dry them but come brewing time I think you'll be disappointed with the hop quality.  What I would do is use all of them now, as in today if possible. Make an IPA, bitter it with something like Warrior (for clean bitterness) or Chinook (for a more coarse bitterness) and add those fresh hops incrementally over the last 15 minutes all the way down to flameout.

A few days drying. I can find a way to vacuum seal em by then.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

It's funny to thing about all those centuries when people didn't have vacuum sealers and how the hops were always terrible.  ;D Dry them wrap them well in plastic and foil and freeze them and they will be fine for a year or more. If they start smelling cheesy then compost them but it's not really a big deal if you can't  vacuum pack them.

3463
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Marshmallow Root Powder?
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:24:53 PM »
marsmallow root is often used in stouts to add body.. It also contains some fairly non-fermentable sugars similar to those found in licorice root (also commonly used in stouts) so it will add some sweetness to the finished product.

I say try it out and report back. I have never used it.

3464
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Trub in an all-grain starter
« on: September 13, 2013, 12:52:25 PM »
I've always just said screw it and pitched it all in trub and everything when working from saved yeast.  But I am not terribly concerned with trub as I have not seen any negative effects.

3465
The Pub / Re: Beer billionaire
« on: September 13, 2013, 12:50:53 PM »
Jim Koch is an evil 1%er?!   Oh the humanity!!   ::)

What next, Santa's not real?

i have heard that santa has add or dementia.  i mean he does have to keep making a list and check it twice

Did you hear about the dyslexic blues man who went to the crossroads and sold his soul to Santa?
Was he named Johnson Robert?

hey guys, take it easy on us dyslexic types!

Dyslexics Untie!!!!!

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