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Messages - morticaixavier

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3451
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Should we avoid bottle conditioned beer?
« on: September 18, 2013, 01:12:36 PM »
A 5 gal fermentor of Mosaic IPA 1.070 OG been fermenting since September 7. I pulled the airlock, coincidently the same size as my one way breath sample mouth piece (hmmmm, an idea)
Anyway, I placed it on the pbt and inhaled air through it from the fermentor. Gag!!! Cough!!!
Reading was .390
There's no way in hell he blew that high without drinking unless he had a belly full of high test and belched into the pbt.
Its a bs story

that's the point, he had a belly full of hightest. the air coming out of his belly was very high in volatile alcohols. many of which likely blow out of the fermenter during fermentation. but because he WAS the fermenter they were blowing out of him.

if you stop someone and ask them if they have had a drink in the last x minutes aren't you asking because while there is a significant amount of alcohol in the mouth and stomach the reading will be way way high? same thing here.

Go and chug a beer and immediately test yourself. I bet you'll blow pretty high. don't drink water in between or anything, drink and blow.

3452
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Should we avoid bottle conditioned beer?
« on: September 17, 2013, 03:43:34 PM »
Oy vey!
DUI is .08. But it's not percent even though some signs say that. Breath alcohol is measured in grams per decalitre or .08 grams in a decalitre of breath.
The measurements are close though, or so I'm told. FYI, .3 would be dead or comatose for most people, so IF this guy stumbled in and said anything understandable, he's a hard core conditioned drunk. The amount of beer one would half to brew in their gut to get to that level wouldn't fit. If he weight 100 lbs he'd need 120 ounces of 4.5% in an hour to get there.

okay  but if un-metabolized alcohol was wafting out of his gut he wouldn't need that BAC level to blow that level. problem with breathalyzers.

3453
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Should we avoid bottle conditioned beer?
« on: September 17, 2013, 03:34:51 PM »
who says it has to be bottle conditioned? if it's not sterile filtered or pasteurized there is still live yeast in there.

I think we should avoid antibiotics instead of beer.

3454
Trying to convert grain bill percentages to pounds an ounces. Is there software?

Yes lots' I like beersmith, others like other products. There are even some free on line ones but I am not familiar.

Important things to know, your efficiency first and foremost.

How many lb of grain would it take for you to get to 1.055 og? that many lbs * .60 gives you your munich... etc.

3455
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 01:07:21 PM »
I make both 5 gallon and 10 gallon batches.....with the lid on and me not paying attention a 5 gallon batch will boil over....been done more than once!

Oh yeah, with the lid on I can imagine. the only time I have had a boil over on a 5 gallon batch was when there was a lot of wheat in the grist... and I wasn't paying attention.

3456
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 12:34:22 PM »
I agree with all of the above.  However it is unimportant if you are brewing with Extract.  It really only applies to all-grain brewing since the DMS is gone out of extract.

don't the precursors begin to reform once you get the wort above the magic temp? or is that another myth?

Morticai, You are seriously beyond my experience level, but my understanding is that the precursor to DMS, which is SMM is entirely converted in a 90 minute boil.  I'm sure that the process of getting DME or LME goes way beyond what it takes to convert all the SMM to DMS and then blow that off.  However, I always take the safe route and defer to those more advanced than I.

I am pretty sure that anything I know about this is heresay from this forum.

In fact, here is a discussion about this very thing.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=33.0

I only in the last year made the move from the stove with a 4 gallon pot to the garage with a 15 gallon pot and never noticed any off taste before since I always brewed with the lid off.  I do partial mash....and usually do IPA's  which i have never noticed any off tastes.   But recently have made a couple of pale ale and they have all had an off flavor that i can't put my finger on.  It almost has a "burnt" type flavor...

 I do usually leave my lid cracked or the pot tends to want to boil over...but condensation does from and drips back in.....looks like my methods have changed!


What is your batch size?  I boil 40 liter batches (~49 liter preboil for a 90 minute boil) in a 50 liter pot and manage to avoid the worst of the boil overs with flame control. You really only need to see the wort turning over, it doesn't have to be leaping out of the pot.

3457
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 12:14:09 PM »
I agree with all of the above.  However it is unimportant if you are brewing with Extract.  It really only applies to all-grain brewing since the DMS is gone out of extract.

don't the precursors begin to reform once you get the wort above the magic temp? or is that another myth?

3458
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling with fresh yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:16:29 AM »
+1 to Denny. the bottle bombs were not because you added yeast.

One benefit to using champagne yeast over us-05 is there is very little chance champagne yeast will attenuate MORE than your primary yeast in barley beer. It's just not that good at the longer, more complex sugars.

That being said, it hardly matters in this case because your mixed yeasts and bugs will have eaten everything available and only that sugar you supply will be available.

3459
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:13:35 AM »
Off.  Always.  For the DMS reasons stated above.

If boil-off is too great, you can split the difference and leave it partially on.

or turn the fire down.

Lid off, mostly for avoidance of DMS, partially because I don't have a lid for my kettle.

I cover with foil while chilling.

I have been thinking about covering while coming up to a boil to speed things up a little.

3460
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 11:11:57 AM »
don't even need to wash it really.

3461
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Marshmallow Root Powder?
« on: September 16, 2013, 04:35:39 PM »
Well it does not smell or taste anything like marshmallow cream that you put on your fluffer nutter:) It is a really fine dark tan powder with a herbal taste. Not much help i know. Had 3 people taste it and they couldnt put a finger on what the taste was. 
From what i have found Marshmallow root contains about 37% starch, 11% mucilage, 11% pectin, flavonoids,  phenolic acids, sucrose, and asparagine.

I am going to make a Smores Porter with it.

you would want to add vanilla to make it smell/taste more like the candy/confection. course the confection doesn't taste anything like marshmallow root because it's not used in the production. It's just gelatin, sugar, and modified food starch.

3462
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting yeast
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:29:32 PM »
Maybe just oversize your starter and harvest from that

+1!  I make a starter 500ml larger than the size starter I need.  If I need a 2L starter, I'll make a 2.5L starter and pour all but 500ml.  Set that extra 500ml in the fridge to let settle.  Take a mason jar with 1/4 - 1/2 filled w/ water and microwave for 2 minutes to sanitize the water and jar.  Put a sanitized lid on the jar and let cool in the fridge.   Then take the extra starter, pour out most of the liquid and leave just enough to mix up the yeast on the bottom and pour into the mason jar and put into the fridge.  Next time I need the yeast, I make another starter and make it 500ml more and repeat the process.  Clean yeast every time and much easier than washing yeast from a carboy.

Take it one step further and make one big (5 liter?) starter when you get some new yeast. decant and pitch an appropriate volume of slurry and save the rest as you describe, now make a starter from a dollop of that each time you need one and you've got a clean 1st generation population to propagate from.

3463
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: September 16, 2013, 01:20:36 PM »
Denny - I tried to get my strike temp too be 170 in my kettle so that when I transferred it using a one gallon metal jug I would lose a few degrees to be about 166 so that I could get it to 151 after adding grain. I was at about 156 after stirring for half a minute, then I stirred some more and added some pieces of ice to lower to about 152, after stirring for another half a minute.

VinS, I did pre-heat my cooler with 1 gallon of boiling water that left in sealed, emptied just before adding strike water.

Kramerog, I used 1.75 qt/pd so I guess I could go to 2 qt/pd to limit, though I probably won't have to do much of a sparge on that I suppose.

I stir for about 5-10 minutes till I am getting consistent temp readings throughout the mash. Actually I stir till I am not seeing any more dough balls and that also tends to result in a consistent mash temp. If you are adding a couple degrees to your strike temp you don't really need to pre-heat with separate water, add the strike water and close up the tun for a couple minutes. Plastic will pre-heat very quickly.

3464
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:06:24 PM »
Thats true, I did add that, and opening and briefly stirring may have resulted in some of that. I was just wondering, if you stir at begging of mash in and you take temp, it will still drop more correct given that it takes time for strike water and grain to mix and create one solid temp. Should I strike slightly high with a reading of 154 if I want to hit 151? given it takes time for grain/water mix.

If you have stirred everything in really well the temp should not drop much more than your measurement. Do you see steam escaping around the lid on cold brew days? if so cover the whole thing in some heavy blankets and see if that helps. Add the midnight wheat right before you sparge instead of in the middle of the mash and it will matter even less than KRAMEROG stated.

3465
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Beer Yeast for Bread?
« on: September 16, 2013, 08:00:33 AM »
I've not yet used yeast from a batch of finished beer in bread but I was out of bread yeast and had a packet of us-05 and used that. no noticeable difference from using regular bread yeast.

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