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Messages - morticaixavier

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3451
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 24, 2013, 08:49:06 AM »
I meant in terms of all grain brewing - extract is clearly free of DMS issues, as long as you use Muntons, anyway!

well, none of the technical staff at Muntons could think of a reason why there would be a problem.

I can't see how there would be.  Extract is wort that has been boiled.  That drives off SMM/DMS.

failed joke. perhaps an emoticon was in order. simply saying they did not say 'there is no SMM/DMS in our extract' but 'We have never tested for these compounds in the final products, but it is the consensus of our technical team that it is extremely unlikely that they will be found.'

3452
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 24, 2013, 07:13:40 AM »
I meant in terms of all grain brewing - extract is clearly free of DMS issues, as long as you use Muntons, anyway!

well, none of the technical staff at Muntons could think of a reason why there would be a problem.

3453
Equipment and Software / Re: Wort chiller
« on: September 24, 2013, 07:12:37 AM »
A while back I was going to build a 50' 1/2" ic until I found that buying one was cheaper. Copper prices fluctuate like a lot

this is true, I happened to score my copper when prices were favorable. All told I put about $40.00 into mine. at the time More Beer was selling a 25' model for 50 or 60. I have heard others say that just the copper was going to cost them around 70. So it matters when you buy.

That being said, I am not a mechanical guy, not stupid about it but not practiced, and I was able to put mine together in about 2 hours.

3454
+1 on the drive-by.  Not even a kiss...  :-*

Yep. Sorry, but I don't fill this kind of stuff out when you only have 1 post to the forum. Next time at least lie and say that you homebrew yourself.

Why? don't you guys want your opinion counted? it doesn't cost anything and actually increases the chance that new products will in some small part reflect YOUR wants and desires.

This comes across as a little elitist on a forum that prides itself on inclusivity.

If I was this kid and I got that kind of response I would not be coming back here and might not want to become a homebrewer even if I was interested.

I'm not saying you have to answer the kids survey but take it easy. It's not like he's trying to offend you.

3455
Equipment and Software / Re: Wort chiller
« on: September 23, 2013, 02:22:32 PM »
Any recommendations for a good, affordable submersion wort chiller?

DIY?

50' coil of either 1/2 or 3/4 ID copper tubing
2 compression fittings with appropriate attachments for your water source.

If you can get the precoiled copper that's really all there is to it. at some point I wrapped some copper wire to hold the whole thing together so it didn't spread out so much when I picked it up but other than that I have used mine for a couple years now. 11 gallons boiling to ~80 in summer in < 30 minutes

3456
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast harvesting and simple sugar
« on: September 23, 2013, 10:05:50 AM »
I'd love to see somebody post something with a remotely scientific basis for this whole simple sugar destroys yeast contention. I'm not saying it's untrue but it seems to be one of those things repeated a lot but never explained how that conclusion was reached.

It's a highly suspect conclusion. During the mash there are lots of simple sugars created, especially if you are mashing in the 140s. It's not like mashes create maltose and more complex sugars. So it really doesn't make sense how a small amount of sucrose or glucose is going to make the yeast lazy. That is especially true since yeast use enzymes to break complex sugars down into simple sugars that they then ferment out. On the other hand, I think you would have a very difficult time making a starter with just water and table sugar because yeast need certain nutrients to grow healthy. However, if you added some table sugar to your starter it would not ruin the yeast.

I would say there is no problem top cropping from a beer with a sugar addition in the boil or afterwards.

I tend to agree with your skepticism on this point. I can see how too much simple sugar would dilute the trace nutrients enough to cause a problem but I am pretty sure that many yeast propagators use simple sugars like corn syrup with added trace minerals to grow yeast. This is why Wyeast is gluten free after all. They are NOT using wort to propagate that yeast.

3457
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Decanting
« on: September 23, 2013, 09:27:18 AM »
Is leaving the flask with the foil over the top enough protection or should I put an airlock on it?

Thanks!

I like to pop a rubber band around the foil just so it doesn't fall off if it gets bumped but that should be fine.

3458
Beer Recipes / Re: Pumpkin spice to the bottling bucket or secondary?
« on: September 23, 2013, 09:12:53 AM »
Some additional thoughts on adding spices post fermentation.
Adding an extract to the finished beer is the best way to get just the right flavor. But by adding a measured amount, you can record it in your notes and just add it to the kettle next time.

I think you'd have very different effects between adding it post fermentation and to the kettle.  If you add it to the kettle, you'll likely get more flavor and less aroma than you would post fermentation.  If that's the case, not only the effects, but the amounts, would be different.

+1, also cooked spices taste quite different than raw spices. This is actually the secret to great indian food at home, cook the spices.

be careful with tinctures of woody spices like cinnamon because you can also extract tannins if you leave it too long.

That being said, your best bet post fermentation is going to be a tincture. Or dry spice. The risk of infection is real but not that significant. Use a sanitized hop bag or tea ball to contain the spices, don't grind any of them too fine and drop in primary after fermentation has settled down or secondary if you are doing a secondary.

3459
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Decanting
« on: September 23, 2013, 08:46:00 AM »
No problem. But you may want to wait for some experts to weigh in. I make some darn good beer if I do say so myself. But yeast guru I ain't!

I'm no bona-fide expert either, but what you describe is my procedure exactly as I've done for going on 30 years (with both starters and saved slurries). 
So as far as I'm concerned,  you're right on the money.  8)

Yup that's more or less it. It's way easier than you think it's going to be.

3460
Ingredients / Re: Forgot to add whirlfoc...
« on: September 22, 2013, 08:01:56 PM »
It's an amber ale.

Do isinglass and irish moss have the same electrical charge? I'm not worried about the yeast clearing, I used WLP 001 and it settles out fine. I'm more concerned with clearing out the proteins.

No it is negatively charged.

3461
Ingredients / Re: Forgot to add whirlfoc...
« on: September 22, 2013, 06:30:10 PM »
This is on my list of experiments to be performed. I have read on the internet that you can use Irish Moss (the active ingredient in whirlfloc) post fermentation in the same way you would use isinglass of gelatin but I have not found the time yet.

If gelatin is an option for you go with that. If not, give the whirlfloc a try. It's not going to hurt anything. But also Cold and Time will often suffice to clear most beers.

3462
All Grain Brewing / Re: amber wheat recipe feedback
« on: September 20, 2013, 02:37:55 PM »
My yeast selection is based on years of dealing with sulfury beers made with wit beer and hefe yeast. The sulfur has all  almost frustrated me enough to move away from the styles completely. I did however do a smash beer the other day with notty and it was sulfury and it cleared nicely after raising it up to room temperature for a few days.

yeah, I noticed a hint of sulfur in the Wit yeast half. I actually suspect this as part of the ham flavor. supposedly very brief contact with copper will largely alleviate the sulfur issue. Just a stir with a bit of copper pipe or similar. longer is NOT better.

3463
All Grain Brewing / Re: amber wheat recipe feedback
« on: September 20, 2013, 02:01:47 PM »
so back to my original question. Does the recipe look good or.....?

looks fine. Personally I would not use that much crystal malt and just do 50% munich 50% wheat but that's me.

I don't actually know how much 1.5 oz orange zest is but last batch of wit I did I included the zest from 3 oranges in 11 gallons.

Make sure you get the right kind of coriander (Indian I think) or you risk a slightly hammy beer. I was always a little confused by this and this last batch I used... I don't honestly know, Mexican would be my guess... coriander and there is a slight but definite savory aspect to the flavor at first. Only with the half of the batch that got the white labs Wit beer yeast. the half that got American Farmhouse blend doesn't have that character. In fact the American Farmhouse half is a much cleaner, brisker, and sharper flavor. the bitterness from the orange zest really comes through a lot more in that one while the coriander is subdued.

I also included a couple oz of chamomile in mine and it's a really nice herbal/honey flavor in the background

3464
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: September 20, 2013, 12:59:44 PM »

3465
Ingredients / Re: One pound of cascade hops.
« on: September 20, 2013, 07:49:39 AM »

If you already froze them wet, it may be too late. They'll turn to mush.

Yes. My understanding is you have to pick them and either dry them or use them within 24 hours wet. Freezing them is not advised.

I froze them for about 16 hours and then brought them out and laid flat for three days drying.

They were very brown by the time they were dry, i would say a brown hop for every green hop. Still had a hop smell, and yellow at the base of the petals. Think I'll just scrap this batch and see if i can pick more.

I'm not asking Freud, but does size matter? I picked a lot of the larger hops last time. But the vine had lots more smaller hops on it.

I think as long as I look for the yellow base and stickiness of the base they should be good hops. Yet i still need to ask, does size matter?

it might,

the smaller cones could be less mature so they would have a less strong flavor. They might just be slightly more stressed so they might actually have a more strong flavor.

The larger cones, if older, might have been oxidized slightly more on the bine which might either make them smell/taste better or smell/taste worse.

so I guess the answer is a definite maybe.

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