Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - morticaixavier

Pages: 1 ... 229 230 [231] 232 233 ... 519
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water Book?
« on: September 24, 2013, 07:41:05 PM »
I ordered mine from Amazon (sorry Brewer's Publications) and just received an email that I'll receive mine on October 1st (as opposed to the Oct 9th original date). 


Fool me twice, can't be fooled again!  ;)

you forgot the uncertain 'uhh, uhh'  ::)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: sugar instead of DME for yeast starter
« on: September 24, 2013, 07:38:56 PM »
A second running starter wort is an awesome idea. Run it into quart jars then 15 minutes in the pressure canner. I might have to try that.

works a treat.

you can take it a step further and can 1.5 quarts in a 2 quart mason jar. Then you spray with star san, pop the lid, pitch the yeast, set the lid back on gently and walk away. I don't use a stir plate so this works for me. If you use a stir plate it wouldn't really gain you anything and those .5 gallon ball jars are pricey.

The Pub / Re: Operation Takeback: The Great Hop Caper
« on: September 24, 2013, 06:01:55 PM »
should be okay but they will be shocked. It's late enough in the year that it might be okay. Any chance you can leave them there till next spring early? that's ideal.

Start about 6-12 inches from the bine and dig with a fork. loosening more than digging. once the soil is workable use your hands to pull it away from the crown. Cut the crown with as much material as you can leave and transplant that. I would be hesitant to leave any bine at all.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: sugar instead of DME for yeast starter
« on: September 24, 2013, 05:58:14 PM »
you could but you would want to add lots of yeast nutrient. and there is some chance, if Chris White is correct, that you will grow yeast with a diminished ability to metabolize maltose which isn't good.

Are you an all grain brewer?

If so consider adding an extra lb or two to the next brew and pulling off an extra gallon or so of wort. boil/dilute to 1.030ish and pressure can or freeze. If you freeze boil again before use.

This is free! (or nearly) I tend to run around 70% extraction eff so I can just put some extra water through my grain bed and get a few quarts of starter wort.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation not finished
« on: September 24, 2013, 05:07:59 PM »
+1 to brewmasternpb as a starting point.

For future batches I would skip the move to secondary. Even if you had pitched enough yeast you then moved the beer away from the bulk of that yeast before it was done.

This is assuming you used a hydrometer and not a refractometer to take your final reading. If you used a refract and did not adjust the reading for the presence of alcohol you are closer to 1.007.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 24, 2013, 03:49:06 PM »
I meant in terms of all grain brewing - extract is clearly free of DMS issues, as long as you use Muntons, anyway!

well, none of the technical staff at Muntons could think of a reason why there would be a problem.

I can't see how there would be.  Extract is wort that has been boiled.  That drives off SMM/DMS.

failed joke. perhaps an emoticon was in order. simply saying they did not say 'there is no SMM/DMS in our extract' but 'We have never tested for these compounds in the final products, but it is the consensus of our technical team that it is extremely unlikely that they will be found.'

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lid on or off during boil?
« on: September 24, 2013, 02:13:40 PM »
I meant in terms of all grain brewing - extract is clearly free of DMS issues, as long as you use Muntons, anyway!

well, none of the technical staff at Muntons could think of a reason why there would be a problem.

Equipment and Software / Re: Wort chiller
« on: September 24, 2013, 02:12:37 PM »
A while back I was going to build a 50' 1/2" ic until I found that buying one was cheaper. Copper prices fluctuate like a lot

this is true, I happened to score my copper when prices were favorable. All told I put about $40.00 into mine. at the time More Beer was selling a 25' model for 50 or 60. I have heard others say that just the copper was going to cost them around 70. So it matters when you buy.

That being said, I am not a mechanical guy, not stupid about it but not practiced, and I was able to put mine together in about 2 hours.

+1 on the drive-by.  Not even a kiss...  :-*

Yep. Sorry, but I don't fill this kind of stuff out when you only have 1 post to the forum. Next time at least lie and say that you homebrew yourself.

Why? don't you guys want your opinion counted? it doesn't cost anything and actually increases the chance that new products will in some small part reflect YOUR wants and desires.

This comes across as a little elitist on a forum that prides itself on inclusivity.

If I was this kid and I got that kind of response I would not be coming back here and might not want to become a homebrewer even if I was interested.

I'm not saying you have to answer the kids survey but take it easy. It's not like he's trying to offend you.

Equipment and Software / Re: Wort chiller
« on: September 23, 2013, 09:22:32 PM »
Any recommendations for a good, affordable submersion wort chiller?


50' coil of either 1/2 or 3/4 ID copper tubing
2 compression fittings with appropriate attachments for your water source.

If you can get the precoiled copper that's really all there is to it. at some point I wrapped some copper wire to hold the whole thing together so it didn't spread out so much when I picked it up but other than that I have used mine for a couple years now. 11 gallons boiling to ~80 in summer in < 30 minutes

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast harvesting and simple sugar
« on: September 23, 2013, 05:05:50 PM »
I'd love to see somebody post something with a remotely scientific basis for this whole simple sugar destroys yeast contention. I'm not saying it's untrue but it seems to be one of those things repeated a lot but never explained how that conclusion was reached.

It's a highly suspect conclusion. During the mash there are lots of simple sugars created, especially if you are mashing in the 140s. It's not like mashes create maltose and more complex sugars. So it really doesn't make sense how a small amount of sucrose or glucose is going to make the yeast lazy. That is especially true since yeast use enzymes to break complex sugars down into simple sugars that they then ferment out. On the other hand, I think you would have a very difficult time making a starter with just water and table sugar because yeast need certain nutrients to grow healthy. However, if you added some table sugar to your starter it would not ruin the yeast.

I would say there is no problem top cropping from a beer with a sugar addition in the boil or afterwards.

I tend to agree with your skepticism on this point. I can see how too much simple sugar would dilute the trace nutrients enough to cause a problem but I am pretty sure that many yeast propagators use simple sugars like corn syrup with added trace minerals to grow yeast. This is why Wyeast is gluten free after all. They are NOT using wort to propagate that yeast.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Decanting
« on: September 23, 2013, 04:27:18 PM »
Is leaving the flask with the foil over the top enough protection or should I put an airlock on it?


I like to pop a rubber band around the foil just so it doesn't fall off if it gets bumped but that should be fine.

Beer Recipes / Re: Pumpkin spice to the bottling bucket or secondary?
« on: September 23, 2013, 04:12:53 PM »
Some additional thoughts on adding spices post fermentation.
Adding an extract to the finished beer is the best way to get just the right flavor. But by adding a measured amount, you can record it in your notes and just add it to the kettle next time.

I think you'd have very different effects between adding it post fermentation and to the kettle.  If you add it to the kettle, you'll likely get more flavor and less aroma than you would post fermentation.  If that's the case, not only the effects, but the amounts, would be different.

+1, also cooked spices taste quite different than raw spices. This is actually the secret to great indian food at home, cook the spices.

be careful with tinctures of woody spices like cinnamon because you can also extract tannins if you leave it too long.

That being said, your best bet post fermentation is going to be a tincture. Or dry spice. The risk of infection is real but not that significant. Use a sanitized hop bag or tea ball to contain the spices, don't grind any of them too fine and drop in primary after fermentation has settled down or secondary if you are doing a secondary.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Decanting
« on: September 23, 2013, 03:46:00 PM »
No problem. But you may want to wait for some experts to weigh in. I make some darn good beer if I do say so myself. But yeast guru I ain't!

I'm no bona-fide expert either, but what you describe is my procedure exactly as I've done for going on 30 years (with both starters and saved slurries). 
So as far as I'm concerned,  you're right on the money.  8)

Yup that's more or less it. It's way easier than you think it's going to be.

Ingredients / Re: Forgot to add whirlfoc...
« on: September 23, 2013, 03:01:56 AM »
It's an amber ale.

Do isinglass and irish moss have the same electrical charge? I'm not worried about the yeast clearing, I used WLP 001 and it settles out fine. I'm more concerned with clearing out the proteins.

No it is negatively charged.

Pages: 1 ... 229 230 [231] 232 233 ... 519