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Messages - morticaixavier

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Ingredients / Re: One pound of cascade hops.
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:48:20 PM »
It's funny to thing about all those centuries when people didn't have vacuum sealers and how the hops were always terrible.  ;D Dry them wrap them well in plastic and foil and freeze them and they will be fine for a year or more. If they start smelling cheesy then compost them but it's not really a big deal if you can't  vacuum pack them.

It's really no different than thinking about all the infected beer people used to drink.  Tastes were different, there was nothing to compare it to, and stale, infected beer with cheesy hops was better than no beer at all.  I mean, some people think Moosehead and Corona are supposed to taste like that!

i'll grant you that but I will also say that there is a practical limit to how paranoid you need to get here. There is good evidence that without some oxidation hops will not develop all the flavour components we are after. Particularly the noble type hops. My point was more along the lines of relaxing a little. pick the hops dry them as gently as you can (This might take a few days, that's okay) and use them in a reasonable amount of time. If you can vacuum seal them then do. If you can't, remove as much air as you can and keep them as cold and dry as you can. It's not like hops turn to cheesy cardboard after a week or even a month. I regularly keep an open bag of hops in the freezer for a couple months wrapped in plastic then foil and have no problem. I just retired a bag of 1 year old amarillo that had been in a paper bag in a plastic bag in my freezer. They were cheesy but only slightly. They went in a bag with some 2009 harvest saaz I am using in lambic type beers.

**EDIT to add at least one reference, however iffy and singular**
"Noble “Spicy” — Hop growers throw the term “noble” around. Technically the term refers to a set of German and Czech hops, Hallertau, Tettnanger, Spalt, and Saaz. The noble hop character is spicy with additional complexity from oxidized oils and beta acids"

Ingredients / Re: One pound of cascade hops.
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:34:01 PM »
Honestly, with no way to vacuum seal, you can dry them but come brewing time I think you'll be disappointed with the hop quality.  What I would do is use all of them now, as in today if possible. Make an IPA, bitter it with something like Warrior (for clean bitterness) or Chinook (for a more coarse bitterness) and add those fresh hops incrementally over the last 15 minutes all the way down to flameout.

A few days drying. I can find a way to vacuum seal em by then.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

It's funny to thing about all those centuries when people didn't have vacuum sealers and how the hops were always terrible.  ;D Dry them wrap them well in plastic and foil and freeze them and they will be fine for a year or more. If they start smelling cheesy then compost them but it's not really a big deal if you can't  vacuum pack them.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Marshmallow Root Powder?
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:24:53 PM »
marsmallow root is often used in stouts to add body.. It also contains some fairly non-fermentable sugars similar to those found in licorice root (also commonly used in stouts) so it will add some sweetness to the finished product.

I say try it out and report back. I have never used it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Trub in an all-grain starter
« on: September 13, 2013, 12:52:25 PM »
I've always just said screw it and pitched it all in trub and everything when working from saved yeast.  But I am not terribly concerned with trub as I have not seen any negative effects.

The Pub / Re: Beer billionaire
« on: September 13, 2013, 12:50:53 PM »
Jim Koch is an evil 1%er?!   Oh the humanity!!   ::)

What next, Santa's not real?

i have heard that santa has add or dementia.  i mean he does have to keep making a list and check it twice

Did you hear about the dyslexic blues man who went to the crossroads and sold his soul to Santa?
Was he named Johnson Robert?

hey guys, take it easy on us dyslexic types!

Dyslexics Untie!!!!!

Hop Growing / Re: My Columbus hops smell like an electrical fire!
« on: September 13, 2013, 12:48:06 PM »
I'm wondering about mold.

What has your weather been like while they were drying? I am thinking that if it was too humid the cores of the cones might have begun to mold before drying out enough to stop it. the surface is clean so it smells good till you smoosh them then you get a puff of the nasty underneath. Can you try carefully cutting a whole cone in half with a sharp knife or scissors and see if the center smells bad while the outside surface smells good?

Hop Growing / Re: My Columbus hops smell like an electrical fire!
« on: September 13, 2013, 07:45:04 AM »
Any hint of electrical fire with the goldings?

Hermaphrodites tend to happen when the plant is stressed or confused. Hops are sensitive to dark period length and when the dark period gets interrupted too much it can cause a few male flowers to show up on an otherwise female plant. I can't imagine why this would cause nasty smell though. I would at least try flushing the soil really really well with very soft water and then switch up the fertilizer (Try some fish emulsion or similar, maybe mix in some michorizae (sp?)) and give it another year. Unless your desperate for the space.

Hop Growing / Re: My Columbus hops smell like an electrical fire!
« on: September 13, 2013, 07:35:37 AM »
All the hops are or were dry. For this years crop, drying between screens over 3 days drove of 72% of the weight off.  The hops feel dry. 

Anyway, I'm hoping for a solution otherwise I'm not really inclined to pick the rest of my Columbus hops and will probably rip them up.

I grow my Columbus in a container FWIW.

are they the only hops you grow in a container? what kind of fertilizer do you use? I've really got no idea. just tossing things out there at this point.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Inexpensive analysis
« on: September 12, 2013, 08:12:48 PM »
Man, I followed the link expecting a cut rate therapist. But I guess that's cool too.

Hop Growing / Re: My Columbus hops smell like an electrical fire!
« on: September 12, 2013, 08:10:33 PM »
sounds phenolic. are you sure they were totally dry? or were these wet hops?

Beer Recipes / Re: Dill pickle beer
« on: September 12, 2013, 08:09:15 PM »
Now, you guys are just being mean. Guess I'll just eat my pickles WiTH my beer. But I will let my wife know that you talked me out of it. So she knows I just didn't give up without a fight.

C'mon now! Just having a little fun! I'd guess most homebrewers have at least conceived strange beers at some time. It's part of the creative process that makes this hobby fun. I've thought of brewing a Halloween candy beer with all the crap candy my kid gets. Skittles, bottle caps, sweet tarts, bit o honey, razzles, starburst... I can just imagine the lovely puke green color!
Didn't mean to be pissy, guess I should have put a smiley on that. I know this is all in fun, my wife just loves dill pickles.i suppose if I want dill pickle flavoring should just drink the juice. :)

LOL! And I don't just use that willy nilly. I actually laughed out loud. You should definitely drink the juice! But don't drink the kool-aid! Be creative! Brew what you want. Just because NO ONE thinks a good dill pickle beer can be done, doesn't mean it can't be done! Just keep this one to a gallon at most for the first try.

I think it's a fine idea. I think you should go with a sour beer, a full on mixed ferment, hence the rodenbach yeast suggestion.

Beer Recipes / Re: Perfect Pumpkin Beer
« on: September 12, 2013, 02:06:31 PM »
I'm curious about the maple syrup being listed as 2 pounds. Is that a misprint? Fluid volume would be how it's marked and sold.
Just want to make sure if I should use 2 pounds or 2 fluid (ounces, cups, gallons , other)?

I am pretty sure they mean lbs. I buy my syrup in bulk and it is sold by weight.

The conversion would be roughly 1.5 lbs per pint


Syrup is closer to 1.4 lbs per pint or just over 11 lbs per gallon (room temp)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Resin
« on: September 12, 2013, 12:08:02 PM »
I always thought of 'resinous' almost as a mouthfeel component. Its not the type of hop flavors, but the way they coat and stick to my palate.

That would actually make sense to me. But it's usually used in reference to flavor.

I understand "piney" or "pine resin," but resin itself doesn't make much sense to me.

"Dank" makes me think of a feeling or atmosphere, not flavor.

So, what I get from this thread (besides that y'all are a bunch of stoners), is that "resin" and "dank" as flavor descriptors are ambiguous and therefore useless. If we can't think of something known and familiar to use as a reference, why make s*** up?

I would put Dank solidly in the 'smelling slightly like cat pee' area with simcoe and good indica/sativa hybrids.

Resinous is a combination of tooth coating oily/tarry mouthfeel with pine resin/turpentine like flavours/aromas. This goes with retsina (big surprise) strong fatty fish like salmon (particularly when smoked), cascade hops, yarrow, oregano, and classic Single strain indica.

then you get fruity/juicy like lot's of the new NZ hops, actual fruit, and single strain sativa.

Beer Recipes / Re: Strong dark Belgian ideas from mixed grains
« on: September 12, 2013, 11:59:44 AM »
Great, thanks for all the thoughts and I'll definitely decrease the amount of mix I work with in any one batch... maybe I'll get the the carapils down into the 5-8% range of the total grist.

On a slightly related note (and maybe I should go look for threads on this), how much attenuation is possible with malts like Carapils or CaraMunich when mashed with a base malt? I was always under the impression they were completely unfermentable, but learned yesterday that only applies when they are steeped or mashed alone, and that the enzymes from a base malt will allow some level of conversion even in crystal malts. Is this calculable?

I don't think that is quite right. Cara/crystal malts are more or less fully converted. The process of making cara/crystal malt is to essentially mash the whole kernel and then kiln to the desired color. The sugar is not convertible because it is already converted, otherwise they would just add starch which is not sweet at all. I have read experiments that seemed to indicate that crystal malt in the lighter color range are actually fairly fermentable while the darker ones are less so. This also has a lot to do with your choice of yeast and that yeasts ability to effectively metabolize those longer chain more complex sugars.

so in short, I don't think there is a simple rule you can follow or calculation you can perform easily.

You could build out some charts for your favorite yeast through empiric method. Mini mash a bunch of 1 quart batches with a handful of pilsner malt and varying amounts of carapils, or mix up the color crystals and do one with carapils, one with c10, c20, c40... etc.

mash all at the same temp and time and pitch the same amount of the same yeast. you get the idea

Thanks again everyone, and I'll do my best to not repeat thread topics.
Nobody hear gets uptight about that like on other boards. Maybe they don't have enough beer.

mostly cause we all like to hear ourselves type. Any opportunity  8)

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