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Messages - morticaixavier

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All Things Food / Re: What to do with my fresh hops
« on: August 29, 2013, 01:36:58 PM »
The decision to process in a water bath or in pressure has to do with the pH of the food you are canning. cucumber Pickles, if made from a trustworthy recipe with vinegar of known acidity is safe to preserve with a water bath but if the pH is too high there is risk of botulism and you need to get the processing temp up there well above 212 to be safe.

That's when the pressure canner comes in.

All Things Food / Re: I want a new class of sodas
« on: August 29, 2013, 01:27:45 PM »
Yeah but I need recipes.  I'm not much of a great experimenter in some such cases, and like a good starting point.

Hmm... making syrups.  I don't think I could build a custom system for syrup deployment, but... hmm.  I bet I could use the pressure cooker to cook ginger root and infuse it into water without vaporizing much off.  Likewise vanillas or root beers (if I could get the root--you can't, it's illegal because you can make MDMA from the safrole, so says Google).

No idea where I'd go with Dr Pepper clone.  Technically these are called "Pepper" drinks or something; Dr Pepper Co has been taken to court for monopoly over "Pepper flavored drinks" that are "Technically not Colas".

safrole is a carcinogen which is why you can no longer use it in commercial soda. you can however grow your own and it is totally legal to grow, harvest, own, cook with, eat, drink, fondle. There are also de-carcinogenated versions of extract available. However look into Wintergreen, Licorice root, burdock root, birch twigs, etc. many many herbs can make a nice soda. Ginseng makes a nice one two. Maple syrup, vanilla and some wintergreen would make a tasty cream soda I bet.

All Things Food / Re: I want a new class of sodas
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:59:43 PM »
Not hard. and you don't need a dedicated kegging system, just a keg or two. even better go old school and carbonate just the water and make the syrups for custom sodas

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why didn't anyone tell me?
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:57:21 PM »
I would have told those guys to go squat myself. I am an all grain brewer and love it very much. I would fully encourage you to make the switch as soon as possible but do it because you WANT to not because a bunch of a-holes displayed their ingnorance and lack of upbringing.

Extract with steeping grains and even just extract is absolutely brewing.

sorry to hear this happened to you. don't let it color your impression of all grain brewers.

The Pub / Re: Can you get drunk on Non-Alcoholic Beer?
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:18:18 PM »
My understanding is that none of those beers are totally non alcoholic.  All have at least a fraction of a percent. So I suppose if you drank enough you could get drunk.

Read the link old man. ;)

Theoretically, it would take 56+/- of them to reach 0.08 BAC.

consumed fast enough that your liver can't keep up?

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Samuel Adams Ruby Mild
« on: August 29, 2013, 12:16:42 PM »
Sounds like mild can describe a large range of beers. My original comment is based on the BJCP category 11A Mild. This definition of milds describes beers with ABV between 2.8-4.5%.

I have had some very tasty home-brewed beers which fit into BJCP 11A. I would like commercial brewers to offer some also.

Mind you I am in Mississippi so I don't have a great selection to draw from at the beer store.  Maybe these beers just aren't being sold here.

yeah, modern milds are session beers. There really aren't a lot of breweries on this side of the pond that are packaging milds. I guess that's not totally out of line as mild was, and is still to some extent anyway, a cask conditioned beer.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Samuel Adams Ruby Mild
« on: August 29, 2013, 10:22:27 AM »
I have had Hardy and Hanson's Cursed Galleon Mild at 5.5% in Nottingham. Might not be brewed anymore.

Then there is Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby Mild at 6.0% ABV.

Those are extreme for today, but there were much stronger molds in Victorian times.

indeed a XXX mild could run 1.100+ for OG

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How low can you go?
« on: August 29, 2013, 10:21:00 AM »
Good stuff! I think that thinking about it in extremes helps gain an understanding of the whole process.
Would you do a step mash? Lowest temperature? Won't enzymes continue to break down sugars by simply mashing for a longer time? How long til enzymes are denatured?

I would aim for a mash temp of 153 or so. this is in the sweet spot for Alpha activity and on the high end but not too high for beta activity. Mash a LOOOOOOONG time. like overnight or for a day or two. You might get some funk going in the mash (sour mash). try to keep mash temps in the low 150's high 140's the whole time. Use some 6 row for added enzymatic power.

I don't thing the enzymes will denature unless the temp gets too high or the pH gets too low. If the temp drops the activity will go down. But both beta and alpha amylase are dextrin limited. so when there are no more sugar chains of the right shape for them more time will not mean more conversion.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How low can you go?
« on: August 29, 2013, 09:43:38 AM »
I guess I should have filed this under "all grain". More attenuative yeast is the obvious answer especially posted under "yeast and fermentation ". How would one mash to achieve a wort that is 100% fermentable with no long chain sugars?

I'm not sure that it is practically possible. The alpha amylase will leave behind one fermentable bit and one less fermentable bit. The Beta amylase will nibble off the end of the less fermentable bit but still leave a less fermentable bit behind.

The molecules that each enzyme is looking for, once the enzyme has acted on it, will always leave behind an unfermentable bit (This is based on my limited understanding of amylase activity and perhaps others can correct/confirm my thoughts).

There are likely other enzymes one could ADD to the mash to increase fermentability though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How low can you go?
« on: August 29, 2013, 09:05:04 AM »
Add some Brett.

+1 I think that without some very specialized yeast there will always be some longer chain sugars that will not ferment out. By the way are you talking about 100% Apparent Attenuation? ie. a finished gravity of 1.000? I've done that with the belle saison but I added some honey.

100% true attenuation would land you below 1. How much below would depend on the worts starting gravity

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cleaning and passifying question
« on: August 28, 2013, 08:54:35 AM »
Is it really necessary to passify stainless steel?

it can get pretty rowdy

Equipment and Software / Re: Devising a Mash Tun for One Gallon Batches
« on: August 28, 2013, 08:54:12 AM »
That will probably work but I gotta ask, what's there to deal with with BIAB. you've got to clean out your mash tun as well right?

If I were you I would go BIAB get a nice heavy duty colander that will rest on top of your boil kettle nicely and you can just lift the bag out and put it in the colander to drain while you start the boil. ideal for you situation I would think.

Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian IPA
« on: August 28, 2013, 08:50:47 AM »
my guess is that the OG is a typo. maybe supposed to be 1.057?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 27, 2013, 03:34:55 PM »
[...] Reusing dry yeast is somewhat trickier, I tend to pitch almost a third of a yeast cake for ales and almost half a yeast cake for lagers (harvesting the yeast cake at about up to a month from original pitch date).  [...]

what makes you say that reusing dry yeast is any different than reusing 'wet' yeast? by the time you are reusing I would think that the population is mostly new and those cells that have survived from the original population have used up any reserves given them during the drying process so there should be zero difference at that point.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: More Beer in Pittsbugh
« on: August 27, 2013, 07:53:13 AM »
So when did Morebeer open a warehouse in Pittsburgh? This is great news! I love their free shipping for $60 orders, but could never order yeast from California. Does anybody know if it's just a shipping warehouse or is it a store as well?

isn't your yeast coming from California anyway? or Oregon?

** actually lallemand is all over the place**

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