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Messages - morticaixavier

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3556
Ingredients / Re: General hop guidelines
« on: June 10, 2013, 06:01:48 PM »
all hops CAN be used in all situations but you don't necessarily want to. Like so many other things in brewing there is a large aspect of personal taste involved.

There are a few strains that tend to be very good for bittering because they have a high Alpha Acid content (you will see hops advertised with an AA%, bittering hops tend to be 8%-14% but can go up to near 20% at times. of course there are traditional british recipes that call for using british hops with low AA%.

There are hops that have intriguing flavours and/or aromas that are also very expensive and so you might want to reserve them for situations where you will really taste and/or smell them.

just found this with a quick search on the google machine.

http://www.hopunion.com/assets/file/Variety%20Book%20(2).pdf this is from hop union which is one of the big hop companies.

3557
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What should I offer this guy?
« on: June 10, 2013, 08:42:25 AM »
If he says 'make an offer' I always like to start at 1 dollar and a six pack. you can go up from there.

Maybe add in naming rights; 'The Tom Dichnherrie Memorial Fermenter'

3558
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roselaere Blend repitch
« on: June 10, 2013, 08:39:50 AM »
It is presently in a plastic barrel - 10 gallon batch in 14 gallon plastic barrel that has a metal compression band.  Should I bulk age it in that?  I was thinking of getting it into glass for long term storage - then finish by putting 5 gallons in an oak barrel I acquired...at least for a month or so at the very end.

I would not age in plastic. If you have glass, use it.

is this concern because the plastic may leach unpleasant stuff into the beer? or for o2 permeability concerns? or something else?

I can see some concern over leaching as the beer's pH drops and I have no idea if it's something else, but on the o2 permeabilty side I would think that plastic would be fine. an oak barrel is going to have some significant o2 permeability and that is the traditional fermentation and aging vessel for many mixed ferments. Just curious about your thinking here.
It is the O2 that is a concern. You can find some tables for different materials in Wild Brews. If you don't have that book, info is on page 19 of the talk by Mr. Vinnie Cilurzo.
http://www.ahaconference.org/conference/past-presentations/2007-presentations/

well that answers that. I wouldn't do a long term ageing in a bucket either if I had ANY concern about too much acetobacter activity. that's amazing almost 10x as much o2 permeability as my 20 liter barrel.

3559
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roselaere Blend repitch
« on: June 09, 2013, 08:28:26 PM »
It is presently in a plastic barrel - 10 gallon batch in 14 gallon plastic barrel that has a metal compression band.  Should I bulk age it in that?  I was thinking of getting it into glass for long term storage - then finish by putting 5 gallons in an oak barrel I acquired...at least for a month or so at the very end.

I would not age in plastic. If you have glass, use it.

is this concern because the plastic may leach unpleasant stuff into the beer? or for o2 permeability concerns? or something else?

I can see some concern over leaching as the beer's pH drops and I have no idea if it's something else, but on the o2 permeabilty side I would think that plastic would be fine. an oak barrel is going to have some significant o2 permeability and that is the traditional fermentation and aging vessel for many mixed ferments. Just curious about your thinking here.

3560
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: FG and priming sugar
« on: June 09, 2013, 04:09:36 PM »
both temperature and residual dissolved co2 will skew the reading. for temp there are tables to consult. for the co2 you can pour the sample back and forth between two containers until it mostly stops foaming up and then take your reading.

3561
Equipment and Software / Re: Mash Tun size - I can't decide.
« on: June 09, 2013, 02:16:40 PM »
Alright...maybe one more question. I am actually in my 3rd store for a cooler as I type this. All the 60-70 quart coolers I have found either had wheels which make the interior odd shapes or the lid basically just sits on top making the quality questionable. Any thoughts of a regular rectangle cooler but it is only 52 quarts. Questionable for 10 gallon batches? Thanks again.

the coleman extreme 72 qt is a good cooler. but a 52 qt will be fine for most 5-10 gallon batches.

3562
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Quantity for 1 Gallon Ales
« on: June 08, 2013, 01:32:49 PM »
Thanks! Ran the numbers on Beersmith, I may have under pitched.  I'll check it again in a day, if not much is going on, I'll throw in the 11g of Dry. 

At least I know what to do on Sunday when I make another 1 gallon batch.

11 grams of dry yeast is WAY WAY WAY too much yeast for 1 gallon of beer. at 1.043 what you pitched is fine. you could have pitched 1/3 of the smack pack and been fine too.

Check out mr malty or yeast calc. either one allows you to enter a gravity and volume and gives you the starter size, and the correct amount of yeast in cells or packs and fractions of packs.

Mr Malty says .5 packs if the pack was 6 weeks old.

A smack pack has ~100 billion cells in it fresh. My Malty calculates you need about 30 billion for your 1 gallon batch. Say you lose ~25% of the cells per month, if the pack was 1 month old you would be fine with  half, if it were 2 months old (past it's use by date at this point) you would be fine with most of a pack (or the whole pack) at 3 months old you would want to use the whole pack.

for dry yeast, you would want to use about 2 grams for the 1 gallon batch.

**EDITED** for correction of 1 to 11 in the first line of my response

3563
Equipment and Software / Re: Buidling a Cooler Mash Tun...PLEASE HELP
« on: June 08, 2013, 12:52:03 PM »
+1, I am going on three years with my cooler with some vinyl tubing forced through the drain hole. didn't take the cooler apart at all. I don't even have the fancy valve like Denny has. I just stick the open end under the handle and let gravity be my valve.

(Let Gravity Be Your Valve Baby)

I thought I was weird because that is what I was doing & hadn't heard of anyone else doing it.  It drips a little for me but not enough to worry about.

I'm not sure that the fact that I do something you do means you are not weird. I'm not saying you ARE weird, just that similarity to me does not convey a sense of normality.

3564
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: End of fermentation?
« on: June 07, 2013, 03:34:20 PM »
Never rely on appearance to find the end of the fermentation - specific gravity is the only way to know for sure.
Yeah, but I didn't get OG  :'(
That doesn't matter.  Two gravity readings that are the same over a few days and you know it's done.

additionally, with extract batches, assuming you were reasonably close on volumes you be reasonably close to what the kit and or computer program tells you the OG should have been.

3565
Equipment and Software / Re: Buidling a Cooler Mash Tun...PLEASE HELP
« on: June 07, 2013, 02:43:43 PM »
FWIW, I found that a bulkhead and ball valve didn't work as well for me as the down and dirty method.

+1, I am going on three years with my cooler with some vinyl tubing forced through the drain hole. didn't take the cooler apart at all. I don't even have the fancy valve like Denny has. I just stick the open end under the handle and let gravity be my valve.

(Let Gravity Be Your Valve Baby)

3566
Equipment and Software / Re: Hose material
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:35:48 AM »
a peristaltic pump is one use I have been thinking about with the silicon. I saw something about it on homebrewtalk at one point but I couldn't find it the last time I looked.

They guy built one out of a cake pan, some skateboard wheels and other assorted gear. Silicon would be ideal for that because of it's softness and durability when it comes to repeated bending and squeezing.

3567
Equipment and Software / Re: Torque
« on: June 06, 2013, 01:21:55 PM »
The motor will be too small, even if attached to a gear drive to turn your mill.  If you have gear reduction the torque does increase, but it will take some b*lls to turn your mill with grain in it.  Don't know how many amps that little motor is, but I'm guess it's probably .1 or less, which at 120VAC is less than 12 watts or .016 HP.  Even if you increase it 30 times through a gear drive, it ain't much.  Something like an old sewing machine motor would probably work.

This is what I'm thinking as well. Do you have any specs on the motor or broken coffee grinder?

Not yet. It's at home. I'll take a look and see what, if anything I can learn from the little sticker on the bottom.

3568
Equipment and Software / Re: Hose material
« on: June 06, 2013, 12:21:10 PM »
I've seen PVC free hose material sold online. What's the point? Has anyone here upgraded original tubing they received in a kit for any reason?

I've never dealt with a kit, but I swear by silicone tubing.  It is far superior to other materials.  The biggest characteristic for me is ease of handling.  I could never get the other tubing stay where I want it.

I like the silicon but it is expensive. I got some once but the next time I needed hose I didn't. it was like 2 or 3 times more than the vinyl stuff.

3569
Equipment and Software / Torque
« on: June 06, 2013, 12:20:07 PM »
So my 1 year old blade style coffee grinder broke the other day. The plastic bit that held the blade on to the drive shaft broke so the blade just fell right off. We got a nicer burr style grinder which is lovely and was on clearance so it was not too expensive.

But anyway the question around the house is 'what do we do with this perfectly good electric motor?'

I just started wondering if I could motorize my mill with it.

obviously it goes very fast, far more RPM than I actually need so I can gear it down with a larger pully on the grinder but will I have enough torque to actually grind grain?

Any engineers out there want to help a guy out? is torque a readily available piece of info available with the model number of the grinder or would I have to know the motor info itself?

Can I do the math to determine it from the voltage/wattage rating of the motor?

Does the ratio used to gear it down change the torque at all?

school me.

3570
The Pub / Re: Building Collapse in Philly
« on: June 06, 2013, 12:06:12 PM »
Yeah, Apparently the building that collapsed was actually empty at the time. It was being torn down but something went wrong and it fell on the salvation army thrift next door which was doing business and full of people.

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