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Messages - morticaixavier

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I don't know what will happen. I think you should just do it. It's mixed fermentation. if 'regular' brewing is 50% science and 50% art sour brewing is 50% science and 80% art  ;)

What was your overall efficiency setting in beersmith?

1.4 qt/lb is a little thick for me I might bump that up closer to 1.75-2qt/lb.

without knowing what your efficiency was it's hard to say if there is a major problem. I personally would not expect to get 1.055 out of 10 lbs of grain but I get fairly low efficiency and there are many who would.

Some assumptions I am making:

the actual total volume post boil was 5.5 gallons.
The average pppg for the grist was 36

36*10(lbs of grist)= 360 points/5.5 gallons = ~65.5. So 100% efficiency would be 1.065ish.  I would guess beer smith is set to around 85% efficiency and you got around 74% pretty good actually

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 19, 2013, 11:59:38 AM »
On the other hand.... I also have a theory that too great of an efficiency can adversely affect malt flavor. 

Interesting!  I see there may be a practical and reason to limit high efficiency.  Other than using more grain (and spending some more $$), is there a similar argument on the low end?  For example, if you are not at XX% efficiency, you don't develop a certain flavor or head retention characteristic? 

I know that this is a YMMV-thing, but is a range of 70% - 80% considered normal efficiency?

I run in the mid to low 60's but I often do no sparge. closer to high 60's low 70's if I sparge.

All Grain Brewing / Re: how do you add your salts?
« on: August 19, 2013, 11:00:28 AM »
I have not had a problem dissolving calcium chloride in the water but I always add the whole volume of water that is in the kettle into the mash tun. At the end of lift the kettle swirl and pour. I suspect anything that hasn't dissolved before it goes into the mash tun will dissolve when the mash is mixed as the pH goes lower.

Given that I also suspect that adding lactic acid to the mash water in the kettle probably helps the salts dissolve better.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 19, 2013, 09:32:19 AM »
Do you double crush supporters add rice hulls?  Or do you think my mesh screen in my round mash tun should be fine to create a grain bed?

I have never used rice hulls. I won't say that I have never had a stuck runoff, I have for sure but I stir it up and re-vorlauf. Adds maybe 15 minutes to the brew day, 20 when I did an all wheat ale. I had to stir and restart that one about 3 times. gotta love the cheap and easy batch sparge system.

I have been brewing with 50%+/- flaked grain lately and I don't even get a stuck runoff every time. maybe every other time.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 19, 2013, 07:55:27 AM »
Glad to hear that.

I may not dry hop ... already has 7 oz hops in a 5 gallon batch.

do dry hop. if you want a hoppy pale ale. The dry hopping is not going to add any additional bitterness just aroma and a little flavor.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 585 Question
« on: August 18, 2013, 04:54:54 PM »
yeah bump the temp up to the 80* range and rouse the yeast. even with really unfermentable wort you should get below 1.020 assuming the OG was in the 1.050 range.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Top cropping yeast questions.
« on: August 18, 2013, 04:53:37 PM »
Yeah I think Jim is probably right on. make the normal starter you would make for a fresh wyeast or whitelab pitch

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Top cropping yeast questions.
« on: August 18, 2013, 12:23:45 PM »
i would think it would be pretty much 100% or as close to that as it ever is as of harvest. General rule of thumb is I think 20-25% loss per month of storage although I've heard some folks speculate that if it's properly stored this is probably overly conservative.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Refrigerator or chest freezer?
« on: August 16, 2013, 01:46:43 PM »
wow Denny. moving up in the world huh?
I have heard that it will shorten the life of a freezer to run at higher than normal temps but I think that if you can avoid too many short cycles it will be fine. The fridge is a problem because every time you open it all the cold falls out. course you don't have to lift buckets into the fridge.

I would definitely say it is Butterty-popcorn!  I actually left a sample on the counter, came back from work and the aroma/taste was almost gone. I'm not sure the science behind that, but it gives me hope that this thing actually taste pretty good...  Thanks for the input I will keep it in the chamber for a bit longer..

I think if you were to warm the sample up a bit you would start smelling it again.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 1st time messing with water chemistry
« on: August 15, 2013, 03:43:02 PM »
No don't add any acid malt - it'll lower your pH more.  What profile are you using ?  5.2 is low for that style (and most others). Since you are using RO I would use the software to add baking soda to get your pH up to 5.3 or 5.4. That'll put you at a more desireable pH.

I am pretty sure I was using the Pale Ale profile, but I am not sure because I downloaded it on a different computer. I guess I am a little surprised that I would be too low on the pH with this recipe. I was under the impression that it was very difficult to get too low without having a higher proportion of roasted malts. Is this not accurate?

+1 to all of what Mort said. Bru'nWater takes the guesswork out.

So after leaving tab 1 and 2 blank in BrunWater (because I am using RO), and entering in my additions of gypsum and calcium chloride in tab 3 (Water Adjustment), and inputting my recipe in Mash Acidification it gives an estimated pH of 5.2. So does that mean I should leave it be at that point? No need to add the acidulated malt right?

sounds right. Just to check did you set the dilution % to 100 and the dilution water to RO?

Yes I did add that part in, I should have mentioned that originally.

When using RO water it is very easy to make big changes to the pH because there is very little buffer there. You have a fair amount of character malt (25%) in that recipe and it is all reducing the pH. with nothing to buffer that change it will be significant. I would think you could safely add a little baking soda to bring your pH up a point or two (5.3-5.4ish) You can also use pickling lime (a very very tiny amount)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dark colored starter
« on: August 15, 2013, 02:11:50 PM »
I wonder is some of the DME scorched when boiled. If enough actually carbonized it could well turn the whole starter blackish.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cooling my all grain wort
« on: August 15, 2013, 11:04:34 AM »
A cheaper option is to buy 5 - 6 1 liter bottles of water, remove labels, freeze solid, sanitize and drop in the hot wort. You should be able to get 5 gallons of wort chilled quite quickly this way with a little stirring with a sanitized spoon.

No-Chill has also been done with little reported problems. In this method you get an airtight heat resistant container (traditionally done with brand new plastic fuel cans) as soon as the boil is over run off into this container and seal. Let cool overnight.


However it is important to remember that an ambient temp of 70-80 is still quite high for most fermentations. You could do a saison at that temp but just about any other ale you are going to want to figure out a way to chill down to the low 60's and maintain that general range (60-68) for at least the first 3-5 days of fermentation

Ingredients / Re: home grown cider
« on: August 15, 2013, 09:42:35 AM »
On anything bigger than a very small scale you are going to want to rent a cider mill set up. it's a grinder and a press. Usually one rinses the apples well in sanitizer and then grinds and presses.

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