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Messages - morticaixavier

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3556
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 19, 2013, 07:55:27 AM »
Glad to hear that.

I may not dry hop ... already has 7 oz hops in a 5 gallon batch.

do dry hop. if you want a hoppy pale ale. The dry hopping is not going to add any additional bitterness just aroma and a little flavor.

3557
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 585 Question
« on: August 18, 2013, 04:54:54 PM »
yeah bump the temp up to the 80* range and rouse the yeast. even with really unfermentable wort you should get below 1.020 assuming the OG was in the 1.050 range.

3558
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Top cropping yeast questions.
« on: August 18, 2013, 04:53:37 PM »
Yeah I think Jim is probably right on. make the normal starter you would make for a fresh wyeast or whitelab pitch

3559
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Top cropping yeast questions.
« on: August 18, 2013, 12:23:45 PM »
i would think it would be pretty much 100% or as close to that as it ever is as of harvest. General rule of thumb is I think 20-25% loss per month of storage although I've heard some folks speculate that if it's properly stored this is probably overly conservative.

3560
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Refrigerator or chest freezer?
« on: August 16, 2013, 01:46:43 PM »
wow Denny. moving up in the world huh?
I have heard that it will shorten the life of a freezer to run at higher than normal temps but I think that if you can avoid too many short cycles it will be fine. The fridge is a problem because every time you open it all the cold falls out. course you don't have to lift buckets into the fridge.

3561
I would definitely say it is Butterty-popcorn!  I actually left a sample on the counter, came back from work and the aroma/taste was almost gone. I'm not sure the science behind that, but it gives me hope that this thing actually taste pretty good...  Thanks for the input I will keep it in the chamber for a bit longer..

I think if you were to warm the sample up a bit you would start smelling it again.

3562
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1st time messing with water chemistry
« on: August 15, 2013, 03:43:02 PM »
No don't add any acid malt - it'll lower your pH more.  What profile are you using ?  5.2 is low for that style (and most others). Since you are using RO I would use the software to add baking soda to get your pH up to 5.3 or 5.4. That'll put you at a more desireable pH.

I am pretty sure I was using the Pale Ale profile, but I am not sure because I downloaded it on a different computer. I guess I am a little surprised that I would be too low on the pH with this recipe. I was under the impression that it was very difficult to get too low without having a higher proportion of roasted malts. Is this not accurate?

+1 to all of what Mort said. Bru'nWater takes the guesswork out.

So after leaving tab 1 and 2 blank in BrunWater (because I am using RO), and entering in my additions of gypsum and calcium chloride in tab 3 (Water Adjustment), and inputting my recipe in Mash Acidification it gives an estimated pH of 5.2. So does that mean I should leave it be at that point? No need to add the acidulated malt right?

sounds right. Just to check did you set the dilution % to 100 and the dilution water to RO?

Yes I did add that part in, I should have mentioned that originally.

When using RO water it is very easy to make big changes to the pH because there is very little buffer there. You have a fair amount of character malt (25%) in that recipe and it is all reducing the pH. with nothing to buffer that change it will be significant. I would think you could safely add a little baking soda to bring your pH up a point or two (5.3-5.4ish) You can also use pickling lime (a very very tiny amount)

3563
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dark colored starter
« on: August 15, 2013, 02:11:50 PM »
I wonder is some of the DME scorched when boiled. If enough actually carbonized it could well turn the whole starter blackish.

3564
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cooling my all grain wort
« on: August 15, 2013, 11:04:34 AM »
A cheaper option is to buy 5 - 6 1 liter bottles of water, remove labels, freeze solid, sanitize and drop in the hot wort. You should be able to get 5 gallons of wort chilled quite quickly this way with a little stirring with a sanitized spoon.

No-Chill has also been done with little reported problems. In this method you get an airtight heat resistant container (traditionally done with brand new plastic fuel cans) as soon as the boil is over run off into this container and seal. Let cool overnight.

**EDIT**

However it is important to remember that an ambient temp of 70-80 is still quite high for most fermentations. You could do a saison at that temp but just about any other ale you are going to want to figure out a way to chill down to the low 60's and maintain that general range (60-68) for at least the first 3-5 days of fermentation

3565
Ingredients / Re: home grown cider
« on: August 15, 2013, 09:42:35 AM »
On anything bigger than a very small scale you are going to want to rent a cider mill set up. it's a grinder and a press. Usually one rinses the apples well in sanitizer and then grinds and presses.

3566
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 15, 2013, 08:10:42 AM »

So I believe I finally figured all this out but have  additional questions:

This last batch I both bottled and kegged. Both the keg and the bottles have been conditioned and refrigerated for the same amount of time at the same temperature. My bottles are pouring crystal clear, commercial quality pours. My keg is tapping cloudy and it is not simply chill haze.

I am still getting a little too much foam and I have 5' of liquid line. My taps are approximately 3' to the center of the keg. For this issue I am assuming I should lengthen the lines, perhaps to 7-8'? The pour is kind of quick and the lines are 3/16 ID. They are refrigerated from keg to tower completely.

I noticed with my first keg that the dip tube goes basically all the way down almost into the little recess in the bottom of the keg. Is it possible that I am continuously sucking up trub each time I tap? Should I have cut the dip tube a little shorter to leave a little more space and avoid this suck up of sediment?

Appreciate the continued help!

more line or less push should help with the foamy pour. I suspect you are correct about the cloudiness. it should clear up eventually.

I would have thought so to on the cloudiness but it has been almost 2 weeks at 39F like an extended cold crash and still cloudy, even after consecutive pours, that's why I asked about dip tube length. I don't think line length would really fix that issue as the beer in the lines is cloudy as well.

line length is for the foamy not the cloudy. you can shorten the dip tube but I find that eventually the sediment clears if its that. I suppose the keg could be infected so new sediment is being deposited all the time. or there is just a lot in which case shorten the tube and/or transfer to a clean keg.

3567
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 15, 2013, 07:30:18 AM »
So I believe I finally figured all this out but have  additional questions:

This last batch I both bottled and kegged. Both the keg and the bottles have been conditioned and refrigerated for the same amount of time at the same temperature. My bottles are pouring crystal clear, commercial quality pours. My keg is tapping cloudy and it is not simply chill haze.

I am still getting a little too much foam and I have 5' of liquid line. My taps are approximately 3' to the center of the keg. For this issue I am assuming I should lengthen the lines, perhaps to 7-8'? The pour is kind of quick and the lines are 3/16 ID. They are refrigerated from keg to tower completely.

I noticed with my first keg that the dip tube goes basically all the way down almost into the little recess in the bottom of the keg. Is it possible that I am continuously sucking up trub each time I tap? Should I have cut the dip tube a little shorter to leave a little more space and avoid this suck up of sediment?

Appreciate the continued help!

more line or less push should help with the foamy pour. I suspect you are correct about the cloudiness. it should clear up eventually.

3568
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dark colored starter
« on: August 15, 2013, 07:20:01 AM »
are you sure it wasn't powdered graphite? Coal Dust?

3569
Beer Travel / Re: Boston
« on: August 14, 2013, 09:28:21 PM »
Brewery tours are fine, but there are lots of good craft beer bars in Boston - I would recommend Bukowski's, Deep Ellum, The Lower Depths, and the Sunset Grill - There is a Yardhouse near Fenway, but that's a different kind of crowd then you'll find in the other bars.  There is a brewpub called Boston Beer Works near Fenway, too - there are several brewpubs outside of Boston - Watch City in Waltham MA, John Harvard's in Framingham, British Beer Company; a restaurant in Worcester called Peppercorn's is home to Wormtown Brewery - I recommend it highly - If you want to travel, Cape Ann Brewing in Cape Ann on the North Shore is a brewpub on the harbor (you can get your Perfect Storm fix there, too)  Check out Beer Advocate for lots more info on breweries, etc in and around Boston and MA generally. Cheers!

+1 to bukowskis. a little aggressively hipster but great beer list

3570
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1st time messing with water chemistry
« on: August 14, 2013, 09:27:05 PM »
+1 to all of what Mort said. Bru'nWater takes the guesswork out.

So after leaving tab 1 and 2 blank in BrunWater (because I am using RO), and entering in my additions of gypsum and calcium chloride in tab 3 (Water Adjustment), and inputting my recipe in Mash Acidification it gives an estimated pH of 5.2. So does that mean I should leave it be at that point? No need to add the acidulated malt right?

sounds right. Just to check did you set the dilution % to 100 and the dilution water to RO?

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