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Messages - morticaixavier

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3571
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 26, 2013, 12:24:42 PM »
People say there is no reason to rehydrate, if this is true why does the Safale website have these instructions?

(Rehydration Instructions
Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°C ± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes.
Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.
Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle
the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the
wort using aeration or by wort addition.)

I rehydrate per the instructions and have never had a problem and I dont have to spend the extra for more packs, (32 gallon ferment at a time), I rehydrate (7) packs instead of pitching 11-12 packs dry.

Is this a trick question? The instructions you posted not only suggest that you can use wort instead of water for rehydration but they also suggest that you can rehydrate directly in the fermenter.

also, have you considered trying to get professional pitch packages? it would probably save you money at that scale. Or reusing/propogating.

3572
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Old Schoolhouse Brewery, Winthrop WA
« on: August 26, 2013, 08:31:37 AM »
I've had their beers a number of times at festivals and in bottles.  One of these days I'll get up there.

I believe Evan Ruud (old assistant brewer, son of owner, brother of head brewer) just went down to Durango Brewing where seanterrill used to work.

did he really name his son after an outboard motor?

3573
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First RIS - not quite done
« on: August 23, 2013, 12:50:49 PM »
are you measuring with a hydrometer or refractometer?

3574
beer smith has a place to adjust the utilization %. it mentions that for larger system it should be greater than 100%.

overall though I go +1 on upping the early hops to get your IBUs

3575
do you have any software? beersmith should be able to calculate those additions for you pretty well.

There are also on line calculators that will get you close but for 20$ I would grab a copy of beersmith.

Just out of curiosity why two coolers? I have the 72 qt with a SS braid and that works as a mash and lauter tun. (You could sell one and get beersmith!)

3576
Ingredients / Re: ginger and hops
« on: August 22, 2013, 07:32:24 AM »
Start low and if you want more you can add more to the fermenter.

I don't know. adding fresh ginger to the fermenter might well result in biological activity that you did not intend. Lots of critters living on/in ginger.

I buy on, but in? I added a pound of peeled ginger to a fermenter once and didn't see new biological activity. Took a year for the ginger to mellow out though.

well there you go. I guess if your careful peeling and don't contaminate the peeled ginger too much it might be fine.

3577
Ingredients / Re: ginger and hops
« on: August 21, 2013, 02:55:27 PM »
Start low and if you want more you can add more to the fermenter.

I don't know. adding fresh ginger to the fermenter might well result in biological activity that you did not intend. Lots of critters living on/in ginger.

3578
Ingredients / Re: How many lbs. of blueberries in my wheat?
« on: August 21, 2013, 02:53:41 PM »
I'm using wild blueberries which always seem more sweet to me than the store bought ones.  I think I'm going to use 7 lbs and I can always use some extract later in the keg if it's not enough.

Wild blueberries have a much stronger flavor per lb as well. I think 7 lbs is a good starting point and can I say that I am so jealous that you have 7 lbs of wild blueberries in your freezer.

3579
Beer Recipes / Re: Summer/Session Ale
« on: August 21, 2013, 07:40:46 AM »
Hoping to get under 80% attenuation for this attempt but not sure to what degree a 2 degree change in mash temp will really change...

when is the last time you calibrated your thermo at mash temps?

Try 162*

How do you calibrate a thermometer at mash temps?

that's the tricky part. You have to get access to a thermo that is to be trusted in the 150-170 range and check it against that. Usually this means a NIST certified old school glass and alcohol model.

It may or may not be worth it. I personally have not done this with any of my thermos I just play around till I figure out the mash temps that work for me with my equipment. I calibrate at boiling on occasion and once in a great while at 32* but that's kind of a pain in the butt too.

3580
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Popping My Homebrewing Cherry
« on: August 21, 2013, 07:32:08 AM »
don't worry about sanitizing in shifts. they will stay reasonably sanitary for a while. If you want extra assurance you could cover the opening of each bottle with sanitized foil until they are all done.

I like to sterilize my bottles in the oven the night before. I stack as many bottles as will fit, or as many as I need anyway, in the cold oven and then turn it on to 350. once it hits temp I let it ride for 20min-1 hour then turn the oven off and walk away. I bottle the next day and just pull the bottles right out of the oven 6 at a time. again, if you want you can put a bit of foil over the opening of each bottle before baking and then they will be all sealed and sterile inside when you fill them.

3581
Beer Recipes / Re: Summer/Session Ale
« on: August 20, 2013, 03:39:58 PM »
Hoping to get under 80% attenuation for this attempt but not sure to what degree a 2 degree change in mash temp will really change...

when is the last time you calibrated your thermo at mash temps?

Try 162*

3582
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Accident
« on: August 20, 2013, 01:19:15 PM »
We are brewed a Belgian double last week. We did not realize that the gravity was high enough that we would need a different airlock set up. Needless to say, it fermented rapidly and on the third day the lid blew off. We got it cleaned up and the beer seemed to be bubbling away and happy in there. Is there anything we need to do to make sure it is not contaminated etc?

Thanks!

Nope, it either is or isn't. probably isn't. RDWHAHB

3583
Ingredients / Re: All Zythos
« on: August 20, 2013, 10:39:06 AM »
I've recently had a few beers that were heavy on the Zythos.  It plays nice with C hops, if you wanna do a blend, but would probably stand up nicely on it's own.

it's already a blend no need to blend your own unless you want to.

3584
IME the Wyeast blends produce higher levels of acidity and wild beer-type flavors on the 2nd and 3rd pitch (I haven't gone past 3).

If you're going for a lambic-esque beer with puckering acidity and lots of funk, using slurry from a previous blend pitch is the way to go.

I pull a few pints of slurry and wash down the fermentor before dumping in the next batch. Otherwise you'll collect a LOT of trub/dead yeast over the course of a few batches on the same yeast.

Oak is nice in this type of beer. If it will be in there for awhile (and you want to harbor bugs in them) oak cubes are best. Wider breadth of oak flavors to contribute, more internal surface area for bugs to live.

When you are talking slurry vs trub, how do make the distinction? I was just going to rack the beer off using the spigot and toss the next batch right in. How do you go a out separating the yeast slurry from trub?

I don't think he was suggesting separating yeast from trub. just scoop out a quart or so into a sanitized mason jar and then wash the fermenter.

3585
The Pub / Re: Oktoberfest planning
« on: August 20, 2013, 08:27:17 AM »
Spaghetti ice cream! I just learned about this stuff. I guess it's a big deal in Germany. Basically it's ice cream put through a spatzle press with strawberry topping and something creative for meatballs (I've heard Fererro Rocher works well).
https://www.google.be/search?q=spaghetti+eis&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=aXwTUuaMKIag0QWc5IFw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1414&bih=734

hilarious. and also a little disgusting.

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