I know that idophor is not recommended to be used at high temp because it causes the active ingredient to off gas much much faster. Don't know that it would matter with star san though.
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Don't make sanitation tougher than it has to be :-) Sanitize right before you use the tool or vessel and be assured it is sanitized. Fresh sanitizer is always the way to go.
"Soaking" for extended times does nothing better and can damage some plastics. Use the contact time stated or a few minutes more. Nothing is gained by keeping things continually soaking.
For carboys and such put in just enough to slosh around and coat the surfaces. No reason to fill the whole thing and have all that weight to deal with and waste sanitizer for no reason. Filling a vessel is a waste at any time for sanitizing. For cleaning a complete fill and soak may be needed due to residuals, but that is for cleaning, not sanitizing.
Mix up only enough sanitizer that is needed to coat the surfaces by submerging or spraying. I usually mix up 1.25 gallons at most, some gets put into the spray bottle to be used as needed, and after the session the rest gets dumped if it will not be needed in the next few days.
StarSan is less than 25 cents per gallon of prepared solution so why waste time and money figuring out ways of keeping it for extended periods? Just because the ratio states one ounce to 5 gallons doesn't mean you make up 5 gallons each time.
Ph below "3" is still good if you can measure. I use strips or my meter if ever needed.
If you keep the sanitizer store it in glass or suitable plastic, not metal or stainless as it will etch the metals.
Hope my two cents helps :-)
you still want to crush it.
i figured but wanted make sure. would you let it rest 10 minutes or so to get the color before draininig?
Alright, I will give not racking it a try. Right now my O.S.G. is at 1.066 so I am excited to see what it drops to. Sadly I do not have a way to keep it at 64...I do not have the space for a second fridge in my house just yet (its an eventual dream as I would love to try my hands at lager)
Wouldn't that be considered "continually adding oxygen"? It's still oxygen molecules, just less ppm than pure O2?
Am I missing something? A Google search of "oxygen toxicity in yeast" turned up nothing related to brewing. And in the "yeast" book, it says,"Generally you do no want to add oxygen later, as it can disturb the delicate balance of flavor and aroma compound creation." It also suggests, in high gravity beers, "adding oxygen between 12-18 hours after pitching can make a tremendous difference in attenuating the beer." But nothing about oxygen toxicity. Doesn't spinning fermenting wort on a stir plate introduce oxygen continually? Why would 30 seconds of oxygenation be a good thing for the yeast 10 minutes before pitching, but be a bad thing 10 minutes after pitching?
I don't mean to be a smarty pants but I'm suddenly cornfused about something I thought I understood!
Well I am brewing stout again, so do you recommend that I just ditch the secondary this time? Also the temp I pitched at was 64 degrees (62 for my current batch).
'fermetation', etc. more accurately than I can type them on a full size key board.
My wife has a large screen android phone that is great for browsing and stuff, so I've played with those. But I can type WAY faster and more accurately on my blackberry keyboard than on her touch screen.
I might do that though, it's on old phone and it's long past time to get a new one.
punatic, amazon has a library you can check books out from, at least for prime users. I haven't used it much.