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Messages - morticaixavier

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1056 Smack Pack Viability
« on: July 17, 2013, 08:26:27 AM »
Do I need one or two packs?  I'm not too familiar using pitching rate calculators...

FWIW, this won't be ready to pitch by Friday.

How long does starter prep usually take?

if you make the starter now and are able to give it a good swirl every hour or so for the next 36 it should be mostly done by tomorrow night, Friday morning at the latest. Then you have to crash cool it to decant the spent 'beer' that will take another 12-24 hours.

so you could pitch on Saturday morning or afternoon. I leave wort overnight without pitching all the time.

Other Fermentables / Strawberry Soda
« on: July 17, 2013, 08:24:35 AM »
So my 2.5 year old REALLY wants to brew this weekend. I asked him what he wanted to brew and he said strawberry soda.

Well I am not one to deny my child's wish to brew so.

I am thinking I will make a strawberry syrup by soaking strawberries overnight in sugar to draw out the juices. maybe a little heat or maybe not. Add this syrup to an empty two liter bottle with water and enough additional sugar to get to the sweetness we want.

I have some us-05 in the fridge I figure .25 packets of that and leave it on the counter till the bottle gets tight and then chill.

Anybody have any additional ideas?

would a few drops of vanilla or almond extract go amiss?

Oooh how about some fresh mint leaves?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1056 Smack Pack Viability
« on: July 17, 2013, 08:04:47 AM »
If the yeast is good you should only need to use one of the packs and save the other.

pitch one smack pack into each.

Do I need one or two packs?  I'm not too familiar using pitching rate calculators...

If you are looking to pitch 10 gallons of 1.050ish ale with packs with best by dates probably sometime in august as the latest you are going to need both packs in a 3 liter starter to approach ideal cell counts. I think you would be fine with both packs in two liters but that is under pitching according to best practices.

check out enter your batch volume and expected gravity. enter the production date which is stamped right on the pack of wyeast I think. if not that is the best by date and the production date is minus 4 months from there. Select intermittent shaking from the aeration method menu and you can play around with the steps and the starter volumes and see the cell count change.

I would pitch each into it's own 1 liter starter, when they are done on Friday morning or so put them in the fridge to crash. during the boil pull off 2 liters of wort and chill it as quickly as you can. decant the spent starter wort and add the fresh wort. Let that work while you finish your boil, chill etc. when you are at pitching temp just pitch the full volume.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1056 Smack Pack Viability
« on: July 17, 2013, 07:35:03 AM »
+1 to a starter. 200 grams of DME + enough water to make 2 liters boil for 5 minutes and chill to room temp. pitch both packs.

If you don't have a 5 liter flask or a gallon jug, use two .5 gallon or even 1 quart jugs and make 700 ml starters with 70 grams of DME each. pitch one smack pack into each.

If you got this yeast back at the end of may it's already getting somewhat elderly anyway. give it a pick me up.

Going Pro / Re: Going Pro Cheap - NJ Farm Brewery Licensing and Fees
« on: July 16, 2013, 02:15:58 PM »
Massachusetts is doing something similar. you still have to deal with the feds and pay a bond but that goes towards your taxes due them anyway. I imagine your locality will have some ideas around what can and can't be a) a brewery and b) a tasting room not to mention local ordinances regarding intent to serve alcohol. but yeah it's pretty cool!

Ingredients / Re: WLP050 Tennessee Whiskey Yeast
« on: July 16, 2013, 01:43:26 PM »
Any other ideas on how to use this yeast in a higher gravity beer?

I actually think it would work well in any high gravity beer. I was just taking the pi$$ on the peated malt thing. If you like that though you should try it. I might be tempted to get the scotch whisky yeast instead if you are after the smoke character. It reminded me of the edinborough yeast in the mild earthiness it lent.

I had to change my vote. turns out I have brewed 36 sub-categories if you include mead. 33 without the mead.

Going Pro / Re: Logo Design
« on: July 16, 2013, 11:53:54 AM »
looks good! simple and impactful

Ingredients / Re: WLP050 Tennessee Whiskey Yeast
« on: July 16, 2013, 11:51:58 AM »
I actually tasted a beer brewed with this yeast at NHC. it was okay. clean with a hint of sweetness. peated barley wine sounds super gross!  ;D good luck!

All Grain Brewing / Re: OK, did I ruin 15 gallons of beer
« on: July 16, 2013, 08:40:05 AM »
seems like the answer, based on history, is... it depends. I have read that it can really improve some beers and others lose some flavor complexity. What kind of beer was it?

It's your product so your taste buds are going to have to be the final arbiter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Geek Green Mountain Ale
« on: July 15, 2013, 03:50:02 PM »

no idea about the yeast. sorry

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Geek Green Mountain Ale
« on: July 15, 2013, 03:38:42 PM »
never heard of it. also can't find a single thing about 'Yeast Geek' on the interwebs. Where are they out of?

Equipment and Software / Re: Outdoor Gas Cooker
« on: July 15, 2013, 02:56:07 PM »
My husband and I have been brewing on our electric stove and we find that it is so inconsistent and takes so long. I was looking in to buying a Bayou Classic SP10 High-Pressure Outdoor Gas Cooker, Propane.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

I have the SQ10 and am quite fond of it. I wish mine had a wind guard around the burner and it looks like the newer models do so that's good. I like the SQ over the SP because the square platform makes the kettle seem more stable to me. This could well be imagination though so... grain of salt and all that.

Some folks on here have been raving about the blichmann burner of late. I believe it's more expensive but something to think about.

You only want to age sour beer on fruit for a few months[...]

I am curious as to why you say this? is there concern with tannins? As Iunderstand it traditional fruit lambics are aged on the fruit for many many months. often there is nothing left of the cherries but the pits.

I had a bottle of the Almanac Brewers reserve which was aged in a wine barrell on plums and cherries for a year before bottling. It's delicious

Like with hops you can lose some of the fresh character of the fruit after a few months. Cherries hold up really well to long term aging on the beer but they seem to have a unique staying power. Admittedly, I've never used plums in a sour beer so I'm not sure when it's best to pull them off. Apricots tend to be aged for only a few months, even by the largest lambic brewers.

good to know. I have just embarked on this wild and crazy ride that is sour brewing so all info is welcome

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 5.2 PH Mash Stabilizer??
« on: July 13, 2013, 08:48:51 PM »
I think that you took my post the wrong way. My point was that using a pH meter was the best move I made, along with using DI water to cut my existing water profile. I do not need 5.2 because I now use acidulated malt in my mash to reduce the pH. I did not mean using acidulated malt made my beers better. You can use any acid (hydrochloric, latic, phosphoric, sulfuric, acidulated malt, etc.) to reduce pH, but without a way to measure the impacts your flying in the dark. I do brew mostly German beers and I try to keep to the Reinheitsgebot, so utilizing acidulated malt and carbonating with speise is my way to adhere to the law.

I understood your point.I was mostly just asking why people use acidulated malt in place of plain lactic acid to control pH?

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