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Messages - morticaixavier

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3721
Ingredients / Re: Grain for color in a Saison?
« on: July 24, 2013, 10:58:07 AM »
I've been enjoying a healthy % of... wait for it...

munich malt in my saisons. right around 20%.

the saison yeast and some added simple sugar will ensure that the munich doesn't make things too malty but it gives a lovely orange hint to the color and a little more complexity in malt profile.

3722
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 10:54:18 AM »
I dont have access to MO, thats why i am asking, thanks for your comments!

And that great smooth bitterness that you feel at the end when you taste yeti, how do you do that? because its not hoppy aroma. I was thinking it 40% of my hop bill at FWH and 60% at 60 minutes. Also adjusting my water salts to enhance maltiness...what do you think?

try it out and see. it'll be beer probably. I like to favor the FWH over 60 minute but some at 60 really does provide a more solid bitterness than FWH alone. for cure choose a bittering hop that is known for smooth bitterness. I like Bravo and Magnum. I just did one using some centennial as bittering addition and that's a nice smooth bitterness.

I have not had Yeti so I can't speak. flaked barley can add a lot of mouthfeel which might help accentuate smoothness. This coupled with a really present bitterness might get you there.


3723
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: And So the Solera Begins
« on: July 24, 2013, 08:46:14 AM »
The pellicle will protect against oxidation.  Thats why they use a nail in the head, to drain a sample without stirring up the pellicle.

Why did you wax?  I didn't do this to my barrel and its going ok, going on year two I think.  In fact I need to pull and replace soon.

The idea of waxing is to make the small 20 liter barrel behave more like a 200-400 liter barrel in terms of o2 diffusion. From what I have read it works to some extent.

Perhaps it is an overblown concern and there are enough other influences that the increased o2 diffusion has minimal impact. However it was not hard or expensize. I used about 6 bucks worth of bees wax. Had I used paraffin it would have been like 2 bucks worth. and it took all of 1 hours time.

How much do you pull each time? Are you using a small 20ish liter barrel for your solera?

3724
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 08:42:39 AM »
Maris otter does not provide a "malty backbone" per say. It is more "biscuity", like English "biscuits". Yes, there is some malt character, obviously. But if you want malt flavor you might look to Munich and Vienna styles of malt. Moderate doses of lighter 10-40 L also provide some malt characteristics. Higher loco bond levels will be more raisin like.

Loco bond? is that like bail for crazy people?

3725
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hydrogen peroxide as a cleaner?
« on: July 24, 2013, 08:19:18 AM »
I read on a description of one-step (an oxygen-based cleaner, I assume similar to oxyclean) that it releases hydrogen peroxide when in solution. If that's the case, it seems like just diluting bottled peroxide in water might be cheaper. Anyone try this?

the bottled peroxide is only like 3-5 % peroxide, I don't think you would want to dilute it. I used to gargle with that stuff so it's not very strong. you could probably use it as a cleaner as you suggest but I don't think it would be cheaper. put together a group buy and get 5 lbs of PBW it'll cost pennies to clean all your equipment each time.

3726
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Dry Yeast
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:43:24 AM »
+1 on the citrus notes. I don't have my notes in front of me but I didn't use any particularly citrusy hops in my batch, except some free centennials (Thanks hop union) from NHC*. I get big lemon. It was particularly apparent at the beginning of the keg when I was getting more actual yeast in the beer.

* I was almost certain I was going to open my suit case in California and find a nice little yellow note from the TSA informing me that the brick of dried green plant material had been confiscated. But it was fine. My clothes smelled lovely as well.

3727
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:39:50 AM »
smooth hop bitterness comes with paying attention to your beta acids and choosing a high alpha hop variety so you don't have to use as much.

I have not heard that Beta acids play a role in smoothing hop bitterness.  Can you explain please?

I could well be mistaken or misunderstanding things here but as I understand it the beta acids will also provide bitterness but they tend to be the harsher more astringent bitterness. so if you can get a variety with very high alpha so you don't have to use as much to get your desired bitterness, and low beta you can minimize the harshness or bite.

I am always open to being correct though so if others have a different understanding...

3728
Equipment and Software / Re: Frig in hot utility\ storage room
« on: July 23, 2013, 08:56:31 PM »
sounds like you need to get some ventilation going in there. I bet if you can bring in some outside air and vent the hot air (vent from high up, make up air from low down) it would help some. also make sure your coils are cleaned our regularly.

3729
The Pub / Re: Want to plant a hachiya, can I?
« on: July 23, 2013, 06:59:33 PM »
Hey BFI, long time no post

3730
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kegged Beer Tastes Boozy
« on: July 23, 2013, 06:57:28 PM »
Any chance the keg froze? you might be getting a concentrated brew. Or you could have a wild yeast infection (tee hee) that is causing fusel alcohols to form.

or the carbonation could be dropping, has it been attached to co2 the whole time?

3731
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 23, 2013, 03:16:38 PM »
Not sure about the RyePa, but the Great divide website does not mention anything about marris otter. it's pretty easy to get big smooth malty-ness from a stout though.

Never underestimate Munich malt and very dark crystal malts for color and malty smoothness. You can reduce possible harsh burnt notes by cold steeping some or all of your roasted grain as well.

You can accentuate malty-ness to some extent with calcium chloride but too much becomes noticeable.

big hop flavor punches come from lots of late hops, last 5 minutes of the boil all the way into the whirlpool. smooth hop bitterness comes with paying attention to your beta acids and choosing a high alpha hop variety so you don't have to use as much. Some varieties will lend a smoother bitterness than others.

3732
The Pub / Re: One more reason to be impressed by Sierra Nevada
« on: July 23, 2013, 02:33:52 PM »
I think it should be called Not-So-Ruthless.  There's just not enough rye there!

but the label is effing amazing.

3733
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: And So the Solera Begins
« on: July 23, 2013, 10:41:20 AM »
I don't think you need to top off every time you sample - there's a trade-off there between minimizing head space and introducing oxygen during filling. Since you waxed most of the barrel, there will be considerably less evaporation, so you may not have to top off at all before you pull.

Pull when it tastes great.

Are you using a breathable bung/airlock? Even though you attenuated that far, brett will still metabolize compounds and produce CO2.

I'm excited to hear how this project comes along - sounds fantastic!

I actually need to get a breathable bung. At the moment it's just got the silicon bung that came with the barrel. I might drill it out and stick an airlock in although the breathable bungs seem like a less labor intensive solution I will pull the  bung out tonight to release any pressure that might have built up.

I'm really excited to. the beer already taste pretty great to me but I am trying to remain patient for at least a couple more months.

I'll have to get a bottle to you as your somewhat responsible for this madness!

3734
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 10:38:36 AM »
Blatz, LOL very funny.

Mort, I refridgerated a gallon once for three days, it did not carbonate before three weeks time, at which point they were all gone. The rest of that batch was carbonated fully  at about day 5. It was a 1.063 ale with us-05.

well that's the beauty of this hobby every day is an adventure. It certainly doesn't hurt to sprinkle a little extra yeast in at bottling time anyway.

3735
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 08:59:16 AM »
Will there still be enough viable yeast in solution to ensure carbonization?

sure - unless you filter it out, there will still be enough.  bear in mind, you will need to let the bottled beer sit at room temp in order to carbonate though.

good luck!

No, you will need to add yeast back to the beer. 2-3 days at 38 should drop most all of the yeast out of suspension, this works great for filtering out yeast and "clearing" the beer.  If you bottle from this vessel you could rouse the yeast back into suspension while mixing in the sugar, but I don't know how well this would work at 38 degrees.
[/quote]

I have never had a beer not carbonate after cold crashing added yeast or no. There is still plenty of yeast in suspension after 48 hours cold time.

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