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Messages - morticaixavier

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3721
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 12, 2012, 08:48:43 AM »
I'm surprised nobody has thrown out the idea of force carbing the entire keg, then just bottling from it. You can do it as simply as a bottling wand stuffed into a picnic tap with the springy bit removed. I have a beer gun, but for 6 bottles or so its not worth breaking it out. I do this all the time.

Advantages are clearer beer in the bottles (no sediment), you know the carb level, and it's faster.

somebody did  ;)

Or bring a growler to your friends and pull a growler full after it is forced carbed but before it is all gone.

3722
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 11, 2012, 11:34:36 PM »
You could put it all in a bottling bucket, add priming sugar, bottle a few and drain the rest into the keg. Let the bottled and kegged beer condition. Good to go.

That was kind of my original idea. The main thing is I want to get the bottling over with before I go over there due to a time crunch. In this instance I would have to transfer back to a cleaned and sanitized fermentation bucket for transportation since I somehow lost the lid for the bottling bucket.

I think I may have talked myself into this option even though it is probably more complicted than necessary. I think this makes sense due mainly to timing.

Okay, here is a compromise that I think will work alot better. Get the keg from your friend, transfer the whole amount of beer into the keg with the priming sugar and bottle the uncarbed beer from the keg. just force it out with minimal co2. then let the keg and the bottles condition.

3723
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: nothing is Happening
« on: December 11, 2012, 07:58:17 PM »
before Fermentation it was at 5.3%  i havent checked it recently, but i did just taste it, and it tastes like watered down beer that is really bitter, what do you experts think?

I think it's done. you said it yourself, watered down BEER wort is sweet and if nothing had happened it would probably also be somewhat sour and nasty but the yeast did their job and you now have beer! bottle it and drink it.

3724
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 11, 2012, 04:45:57 PM »
Or bring a growler to your friends and pull a growler full after it is forced carbed but before it is all gone.

3725
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: IPA time
« on: December 11, 2012, 04:43:48 PM »
And if you are nervous about adding gypsum you can wait and add it to taste at packagine time.

3726
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: IPA time
« on: December 11, 2012, 12:59:58 PM »
+1 on skipping the amber malt extract. add 2 more lb pale extract, leave the medium crystal, skip the dextrine unless you have some really compelling reason to add it.

On hops I would add enough of your highest AA hops at the begining of the boil or First Wort Hop and a 60 minute to get most of your IBUs then load up at the end with the amarillo and FF and maybe some cascade as well. 1 oz each at 10, 5, and 0 and then Dry hop with a couple oz of similar mix as the late hops

3727
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 11, 2012, 11:37:46 AM »
alright, I will admit when I am wrong. course the fact that you can't displace all the o2 in a container with co2 is why I purge my kegs by filling with liquid and forcing that out with co2 so I was aware of this issue to some extent.

**EDIT**

so does this mean that the 'blanket of co2' argument is false? If I am reading and understanding this discussion correctly it means that more or less all of the o2 that was in my fermenter headspace to start with, less the amount removed by the dilution with co2 from fermentation and the amount removed by disolution into the liquid is still present at the close of fermentation. Which means that even a little stirring of a finished beer risks oxidation.

3728
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast starter
« on: December 11, 2012, 10:53:57 AM »
What he said.

have you ever tasted the starter 'beer'? ask yourself how much of that flavour do you want in your finished product.

I like to give starters a week, I start them the weekend before my brew day and let them ferment out for 3 or 4 days then stick them in the fridge till I am ready to pitch. I pitch the day after brew day so that the wort can chill out the rest of the way to pitching temps so it's the day after brew day. If I am stepping the start up I give it a week per step. this may be overkill but it seems to work and it only takes an hour or so (less really) to get the starter going.

I like to do this also because I can't brew every weekend but between making starters, checking gravities, kegging, and bottling I can have some little brewing related task to accomplish pretty much every weekend.

3729
Beer Recipes / Re: Milk Stout
« on: December 11, 2012, 09:00:13 AM »
I wouldn't think that .5 lb of each flaked grain is too much at all. No need to crush, just toss em in.

3730
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 11, 2012, 08:57:23 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

That's not how gases work.  Otherwise, basements would be deadly. :-)

excuse me, let me add 'In absence of any continued mixing' which, for all practical purposes doesn't happen in 'the real world'. and basements CAN be deadly. Think co2 fire extinguishers, or failing co2 bulk tanks for that matter. If you are in a basement with say 500lb of co2 in a tank and that tank suddenly empties that basement will very much be deadly. Why? because the co2 will displace all the other gases from the bottom up. That's why it works to put out fires. that's why a balloon filled with helium rises. That's why the myth buster guys can do the trick with the heavier than air gas in the fishtank and the boat made of foil (look it up, it's pretty cool). It's not perfect statification and any little tiny movement will mix the gases again but it does happen.

3731
Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:51:53 AM »
you want to make sure the yeast have enough calcium but other than that I don't see why that wouldn't work

3732
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:27:53 AM »
Eh, so very true. Great point... Maybe I squeak out a 1 gallon AG batch because I'm such a cheapO.  For a strange reason, I think it may be my auto siphon and/or it's hose.  Any particular reason why you mentioned that? Is it common? Thanks

it's hard to get the tubing really clean. I like to replace my tubing every 10 or so batches just because you can never get IN there to really clean stuff up.

Guess I've been lucky, then.  I don't think I've replaced my tubing in 10 years, let alone 10 batches!

either that or I have been over cautious  ;D

3733
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:12:27 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

My understanding of how it works is that the gas does not form layers in that way but rather mixes uniformly in the container (over time, of course, not immediately).

Regardless, purging it a couple times should do a pretty good job.

It mixes initially but in absence of air currents or over movement it will form layers. however it takes very little to cause the gases to mix again. but what hopfen says makes a lot more sense to me. you are really just diluting the o2 until you are at levels where it just doesn't matter anymore.

3734
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 10, 2012, 09:38:28 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

3735
Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 08:40:13 AM »
Try taking the salts out in bru'n water then check the mash ph on the mash acidification and sparge acidification sheets. unless you are doing a very light colored beer it's probably not a huge issue pH wise and you could add them to the kettle. but stirring your sparge water really well should get the salts to disolve, unless you are using chalk, that doesn't like to disolve at all.

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