I certainly didn't mean to imply that he had to, just doesn't seem like that much more work to me. given that there are situations where it WILL potentially make a difference why not get in the habit?
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Any reason to adjust my water for an extract brew? Normally an all-grain brewer. My water tastes fine but I do have high bicarbonates-275 ppm per Ward Labs.
I'm learning this whole forum, and I'm not sure if I posted in the right place, but my question somewhat pertains to water, but the volume amount of the boil.
I'm brewing an American IPA, extract. In the past, I've boiled either 2 or 3 gallons, added all my grains, syrup, and hops to that volume amount (2 or 3 gallons). I'm thinking this time around of boiling all 5 gallons, and adding my respective ingredients to 5 gallons, rather than the 2 or 3.
Will this affect my flavor? I've noticed a lot of extract recipes calls to boil 2, 3, or even less water, rather than 5. Thanks.
Shouldn't a beer with that name be dark? That's what I'm thinkin'...
Gargoyles are protectors from evil spirits... So, gargoyles scare off darkness. They are ugly but good.
Actually I didn't look that deep into when naming it. We have gargoyles around our koi pond, so as I sat on the porch putting together the recipe, I looked at one of the gargoyles and thought that should be the name. But I see your point, but it's my beer so your point doesn't matter
if the yeast were all gone you wouldn't get any carbonation. yes it looks like totally normal yeast sedimentation from bottle conditioning. What yeast did you use? I suspect it was a fairly clumpy one like 1968 or similar.
568 Saison blend from white labs
I do all of my starter wort in quart canning jars. 2.5 oz per jar. 15 min at 15 psi. I do about 14 quarts at a time. Always room temp when I need it.
Pics. But, try a commercial bottle conditiond like Sierra Nevada, there's floaties. I wouldn't sweat it
Oh, not sweating it, just trying to figure out why it's there because there was little to no yeast in suspension when I bottled, so I'm curious what caused these flakes to form in 3 days
I wouldn't worry either. I used to have hop floaties in my beer. Then I started racking into the fermenting bucket instead of pouring the whole thing and that took care of most of it.
Now I whirlpool the wort at the end of the boil to make a pile of trub in the center of the kettle and rack into the carboy from the edge of the kettle. No more trub in the finished product other than yeast.
I'd expect plenty of yeast to still be in suspension though. What is your method of filtration?
Maybe filter isn't correct. I do the same thing whirlpool wise, then rack from the edge. I rack into secondary and finally rack into the bottling bucket, so 3 total racks. I had assumed that most of the yeast was gone. When I saw all this I was wow, where did that come from?
So bottom line is the yeast in suspension, when hit with the priming sugar, flocs out again?
Well, I just got mine in today and everything looks as advertised. Nice case, and the refractometer seems very sturdy. I'm looking forward to testing it out tomorrow.Me to. all looks well.
My only complaint is that the SG scale is way too small for my crappy eyes to read.
For the tubing you could use polycarbonate or borosilicate glass (McMaster-Carr) and use a couple of silicone O-rings in place of the metal compression ring.That's how my sight glass is constructed. I bought it from www.bargainfittings.com
Thanks. If you get around to it, can you post a pic?
I did not really want to add it to the boil, but rather let the yeast get
to high Krausen (no need for a giant starter)on a lower gravity
then supplement the sugar, once maybe twice as the fermentation progresses.
I guess recalling some fermentations I watched in a carboy, the turbulence
was enough to keep all the ingredients in flux. I think I am just going to
carefully maintain sanitation, and add the syrup to the bucket. The contents
of the food grade syrup was probably packaged Hot and must be sanitary else
you would have moldy syrup upon opening of the commerical packaging.
That refractometer sure didn't get very positive reviews. Kind of apprehensive after reading some of those. Usually there's one or two bad reviews, but that one has quite a few.
I made a mistake of under pitching (I think) this weekend into an Altbier. Chilled the wort in the fridge over night down to 55F. Rehyrdrated one packet of US-05, aerated for a minute with pure O2. 36 hours, no activity, raised temp to 60, nothing. Ended up pitching another packet last night and have a krausen forming this morning. I probably should've pitched 2 packs. Gravity was 1.050 for 4 gallons (that's the batch size I brew these days). Plus I rehydrated at 95F for 15 minutes, then pitched right into the wort, that probably wasn't the best idea either...An 11 gram packet should be plenty for 4G of a 1.050 beer. They are twice the size of Red Star packets.
Found past winners on line.
2012 Seattle, CA = 36
2011 SD, CA = 48
2010 Minneapolis. CA = 62
2009 Oakland. CA = 39
2008 Cincinnati. CA = 35
2007 Denver. CA = 48
I want to look at Michigan next.
The right way to do this would be by percentage since it's pretty obvious that CA skews the results due to high numbers. But I don't think we have those numbers.
"Stop when full" - are you talking about filling bottles? If so, add a bottling wand which will only fill when you push down on the bottom of the bottle.
Yes, sorry for not clarifying. I'm talking about filling bottles.
Perhaps racking cane wasn't correct. The little bottle filler that has the spring loaded tip. It works fine, but I'd prefer something I can set on the bottle and it will automatically stop once full. Is something like this made?