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Messages - morticaixavier

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3736
You only want to age sour beer on fruit for a few months[...]

I am curious as to why you say this? is there concern with tannins? As Iunderstand it traditional fruit lambics are aged on the fruit for many many months. often there is nothing left of the cherries but the pits.

I had a bottle of the Almanac Brewers reserve which was aged in a wine barrell on plums and cherries for a year before bottling. It's delicious

Like with hops you can lose some of the fresh character of the fruit after a few months. Cherries hold up really well to long term aging on the beer but they seem to have a unique staying power. Admittedly, I've never used plums in a sour beer so I'm not sure when it's best to pull them off. Apricots tend to be aged for only a few months, even by the largest lambic brewers.

good to know. I have just embarked on this wild and crazy ride that is sour brewing so all info is welcome

3737
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 5.2 PH Mash Stabilizer??
« on: July 13, 2013, 08:48:51 PM »
I think that you took my post the wrong way. My point was that using a pH meter was the best move I made, along with using DI water to cut my existing water profile. I do not need 5.2 because I now use acidulated malt in my mash to reduce the pH. I did not mean using acidulated malt made my beers better. You can use any acid (hydrochloric, latic, phosphoric, sulfuric, acidulated malt, etc.) to reduce pH, but without a way to measure the impacts your flying in the dark. I do brew mostly German beers and I try to keep to the Reinheitsgebot, so utilizing acidulated malt and carbonating with speise is my way to adhere to the law.

I understood your point.I was mostly just asking why people use acidulated malt in place of plain lactic acid to control pH?

3738
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 5.2 PH Mash Stabilizer??
« on: July 13, 2013, 12:40:52 PM »
I threw out what I had remaining of 5.2, bought a pH meter, and haven`t looked back. I now use acidulated malt for my mash and Latic or phosphoric acid for my sparge water to lower my pH. In my case it was one the best moves I made to make better beers, along with cutting my existing water with DI water.  ;D

So I understand why Kai likes acidulated malt, being german  ;D but I don't really get the point.

I mean it's just pilsner malt sprayed with lactic acid right? My little bottle of 88% lactic acid has already lasted 10-20 brew days and I'm not even half way through it and I don't have to remember to buy yet another specialty grain that does nothing for the flavour of the beer other than adjust the pH.

Any insight?

3739
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aeration Equipment Question
« on: July 13, 2013, 12:38:52 PM »
For those using the mixer are finding any loss of head retention? 


Just curious, whats the reason behind this?  I just brewed a saison, and used my drill mixer for the first time and noticed a very thin, quick dissipating head.  I thought it was the grain bill, but now you've got me wondering...

the theoretical concern is that you will destroy too many head forming proteins. The thinking goes like this:

The proteins that form the head only work once therefore if you make foam in your wort and or beer you are using up some of those proteins and they will no longer be available for forming a head on the beer when you serve it.

However there are many many other things that can negativly affect your head retention and this doesn't seem to be a practical problem if you are doing other things right.

3740
You only want to age sour beer on fruit for a few months[...]

I am curious as to why you say this? is there concern with tannins? As Iunderstand it traditional fruit lambics are aged on the fruit for many many months. often there is nothing left of the cherries but the pits.

I had a bottle of the Almanac Brewers reserve which was aged in a wine barrell on plums and cherries for a year before bottling. It's delicious

3741
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with Berliner pellicle.
« on: July 13, 2013, 12:24:15 PM »
My last Berliner kept chugging for months (ma in October, kegged and consumed at a Cinco de Mayo party this past spring....  If you want it quick, then you should do a sour mash, then boil or approach 180f for short time then chill and pitch the yeast at ambient temps;  or skip the Brett and go with the straight lacto pitch followed by the yeast a few days in.  At least that is what I read from experienced sour guys around here.

Hmm, this is an interesting thought.  Straight lacto pitch for a few days then yeast.  There is some white labs berliner yeast I saw at the lhbs that I may pick up

you can do that to. pitch lacto only and hold the temp around 100*f for a few days till you get your sourness then heat to 180 or above and chill and pitch.

3742
What a out boiling them down, pureeing, freezing, then adding? Even leas chance of infection?

Sure... If you feel that froggy... Take the leap!

I'm just trying to mitigate any possible risks!

wait, we are talking about a sour beer here right? it's going to be infected right? so what's the worry. with the low pH and moderate alcohol content of the mostly finished beer it's unlikely that anything really unpleasent is going to happen. Cooked fruit is not going to taste anything like raw fruit you can steam them or soak them in sanitizer to kill stuff on the outside if you want. still no guarantees but that is sour brewing with fruit.

3743
fruit sour?

do a simply golden ale with some simple sugar and pitch lots of bugs and bottle dregs at it and then add the fruit as well. whole hog

So pitch the fruits whole when I pitch the yeast?

I would wait till fermentation slows way way down. You could even transfer to a secondary if you wanted to free up a primary fermenter (I say this because I have glass carboys that I never use and I only have 6 or so buckets) I might freeze them first and maybe chop them a  bit. There is some question about adding pits to the beer but I am skeptical about the risks

3744
fruit sour?

do a simply golden ale with some simple sugar and pitch lots of bugs and bottle dregs at it and then add the fruit as well. whole hog

3745
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Refractometer Sale
« on: July 12, 2013, 01:22:07 PM »
Mine showed up today.  Only a soft case, but still quite happy with the purchase
The fact that that detail is inconsistent, keeps me away from the "deal".

I bet if you read the fine print is says that another product will be substituted if supply requires. I got the hardcase and cloth and all just like in the picture.

3746
Ingredients / Re: When to add sugar for Biere de Garde
« on: July 12, 2013, 01:21:03 PM »
I certainly didn't mean to imply that he had to, just doesn't seem like that much more work to me. given that there are situations where it WILL potentially make a difference why not get in the habit?

3747
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Water
« on: July 12, 2013, 01:19:54 PM »
Any reason to adjust my water for an extract brew?  Normally an all-grain brewer.  My water tastes fine but I do have high bicarbonates-275 ppm per Ward Labs.

I'm learning this whole forum, and I'm not sure if I posted in the right place, but my question somewhat pertains to water, but the volume amount of the boil.

I'm brewing an American IPA, extract. In the past, I've boiled either 2 or 3 gallons, added all my grains, syrup, and hops to that volume amount (2 or 3 gallons). I'm thinking this time around of boiling all 5 gallons, and adding my respective ingredients to 5 gallons, rather than the 2 or 3.

Will this affect my flavor? I've noticed a lot of extract recipes calls to boil 2, 3, or even less water, rather than 5. Thanks.

always feel free to start a new post if you have a question. It will be more likely to get seen and fully answered but I will try.

The main reason to boil 2 or 3 gallons for extract is that you don't really NEED to boil it all so why waste energy? however there are some benefits to boiling the full volume. You should have no problem with straight extract and specialty grains so long as you pay attention to the pH OR pull the grains before the water temp exceeds 170*f. Hop utilization, the amount of bitterness you get from a given amount of hops, will be different depending on the gravity of the wort you are boiling them in. The level of darkening due to maillard reactions is also dependent on the amount of sugar and protein in the wort so a more concentrated boil will darken more.

3748
Ingredients / Re: When to add sugar for Biere de Garde
« on: July 12, 2013, 07:32:34 AM »
I think you should add the sugar to the fermenter after the first few days. It is supposed to be healthier for the yeast as it keeps the osmotic pressure on the fermenting beer down and I find that it helps with keeping the temp rise down on a big or a really digestible beer.
 

3749
Beer Recipes / Re: The Gargoyle
« on: July 11, 2013, 01:05:01 PM »
Shouldn't a beer with that name be dark? That's what I'm thinkin'...

Gargoyles are protectors from evil spirits... So, gargoyles scare off darkness. They are ugly but good.

Actually I didn't look that deep into when naming it. We have gargoyles around our koi pond, so as I sat on the porch putting together the recipe, I looked at one of the gargoyles and thought that should be the name. But I see your point, but it's my beer so your point doesn't matter  ;) :P

who says darkness is inherently associated with evil spirits?  ;D

3750
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Flake looking material in bottles?
« on: July 11, 2013, 09:26:47 AM »
[...]
if the yeast were all gone you wouldn't get any carbonation. yes it looks like totally normal yeast sedimentation from bottle conditioning. What yeast did you use? I suspect it was a fairly clumpy one like 1968 or similar.

568 Saison blend from white labs

hmm not known for it flocculence but I still stick with yeast.

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