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Messages - morticaixavier

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3781
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Infection
« on: June 06, 2013, 08:08:54 AM »
I'm sure it could. I would wipe the whole inside of the freezer down with dilute bleach OR vinegar solution.

The odd thing is that lacto doesn't really like it cold. It should take quite a long time to be noticeable at cold (60s) temps.

3782
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Straining your wort
« on: June 05, 2013, 03:17:24 PM »
I drain my wort through a spigot and hose. I attach a sanitized lady's leg stocking to the hose with a zip tie. I drain into a bucket and then pour the bucket through a funnel into a carboy. It is very effective and cheap. I just bought 20 pair at WalMart for 18 cents a pair.

doesn't the ladies leg get sticky? She doesn't mind?

Another nice thing you can do is put some whole cone hops in the strainer or funnel and drain through them. they will act as a filter bed and give you some great hoppy aroma

I gotta figure that one out. When I've tried that in the past the hops float and swirl around. I don't get a filter bed. What am I missing? Thanks,

perhaps let it drain through more slowly so it doesn't float the hops? or press them gently between the funnel and a strainer. When I do it the strainer doesn't fill up with liquid so the hops don't float.

3783
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Barrel Aged Barleywine
« on: June 05, 2013, 02:20:55 PM »
I dont mean to hijack the OP's question, but have a similar beer. How do you prepare the maltodextrin?  Do you just dump it in, or boil it with water, etc?  And any suggestion on amount?
No worries about hijacking. I think it was a valid question.  Thoughts on DME?

dme is just going to mostly ferment out. If you have picked up a wild yeast from the barrel I think that even maltodextrin or lactose will eventually ferment back out. DME though, that's just more yeast food.

3784
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Straining your wort
« on: June 05, 2013, 02:17:42 PM »
I drain my wort through a spigot and hose. I attach a sanitized lady's leg stocking to the hose with a zip tie. I drain into a bucket and then pour the bucket through a funnel into a carboy. It is very effective and cheap. I just bought 20 pair at WalMart for 18 cents a pair.

doesn't the ladies leg get sticky? She doesn't mind?

Another nice thing you can do is put some whole cone hops in the strainer or funnel and drain through them. they will act as a filter bed and give you some great hoppy aroma

3785
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: All grain jump
« on: June 05, 2013, 11:26:46 AM »
Another, admittedly less noble, reason is that it is cheaper to brew all grain.
How so?

grain is cheaper per unit of extractable sugar than extract.

3786
All Grain Brewing / Re: Residual Sweetness
« on: June 05, 2013, 10:19:12 AM »
In my experience perceived sweetness can come from a few different sources.

Crystal malt, high mash temps - these lead to longer change and thus less fermentable sugars. These sugars tend to taste less sweet than shorter more fermentable sugars and lend body and mouthfeel as well as sweetness. How much of these sugars are fermented and how much is left is largely an effect of yeast strain. Which brings me to the second item on the list

Yeast Strain has a huge affect on perceived sweetness both because of how the yeast play with the hops and how that affects perceived bitterness (PRS is affected by PB and vice versa) and because of how yeast strain effects body and mouthfeel.

Carbonation. Higher carbonation tends to make flavours and aromas pop a little more. I find that with yeast strains that accentuate sweetness and vinous flavor characteristics (Belgian and saison yeast particularly) more carbonation can actually accentuate fullness in the body by building a thick creamy head and making the beer seem to fill your mouth more. Whereas with a full bodies british beer too much carbonation can actually make them seem brighter and more refreshing which can be nice or not so nice depending on what you are after.

Pilsner malt. Pilsner malt, in my experience adds a lovely grape like sweetness even when it ferments out pretty dry. It can be overwhelming but if not used to excess it can add a nice bit of perceived sweetness that will not ferment out.

That's about all I got. Hope it helps.

3787
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: All grain jump
« on: June 05, 2013, 09:49:36 AM »
[...]Plus, the spent grain makes great chicken food!

+ 1

the chickens LOVE the spent grain. They couldn't care less about the normal chicken food but give them a pile of spent barley and rye and a couple cockroaches and they are happy little birds.

3788
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: All grain jump
« on: June 05, 2013, 08:25:57 AM »
1) Basic setup can be as simple as a large fine mesh nylon bag that fits inside your kettle, a kkettle >= 7gallons and a strong back.
2)not really. If you can check the temperature of water and stir porridge you should be all set.
3) I think there is a noticeable difference. If for no other reason than because when you buy extracts some other brewer has decided what's in your beer in terms of crystal malts and base malts. that being said I have had some outstanding extract beers.
4)It's also a lot of fun to serve a beverage you made from a simple pile of grain.

3789
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash temp calculation
« on: June 05, 2013, 07:56:23 AM »
Greg Doss from Wyeast presented an experiment at the NHC last year which showed that 153F was the mash temp that led to the most fermentable wort. My only question with his experiment setup was that the mashes were all conducted for a standard time. If the lower temperature mashes were held for a longer time, I still wonder if they would have surpassed the fermentability of the 153F mash.

Personally. I shoot for 153 for the majority of my beers. I'll go as low as 147-148 for really big beers that I want to ferment down as far as I can get them. For session beers I mash in the 160-162F range to leave enough dextrins behind. If I had a beer that I was rebrewing a bunch of times I might try to dial in a specific mash temp, but normally I don't see enough of a difference between 153 and 156ish where I'd bother with that small of a difference in mash temp. I generally try to dial in the other parts of the recipe first before I start with mash temp unless it is grossly off.

FWIW, Lagunitas mashes the majority of their beers at 160F, so it's not like a mash temp in this range means you're doomed to be drinking malt syrup. A lot of brewers seem to have this idea that mash temps above the mid 150's are way too high, but I just don't find that to be the case in my experience.

+1

or rather +162. I like that mash temp for session beers a lot. Even at modest gravities (1.035~) and minimal crystal additions (<.5 lbs/5gallon) you can get a ton of malt character but it's still plenty drinkable.

And with a really big beer like a barley wine or IIPA mash at 148, add simple sugars and you will still have plenty of body to support lots of hops.

3790
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bretta B. and Those crazy Danish guys
« on: June 05, 2013, 07:36:48 AM »
It may or may not get to 1.000. Personally I would prime it as normal. You might get carbonation over 2.4 over time but at 1.001 it's not like there is much residual sugar to create a high risk of explosions.

that's what I'm thinking. There was a lb of honey in the recipe so I guess it MIGHT drop a tad below 1.000 but not too much.

3791
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bretta B. and Those crazy Danish guys
« on: June 04, 2013, 08:44:47 PM »
bump for an update

Just tasted this after three weeks on the bugs and it's amazing. Already so complex and funky. A touch of sour but far from over the top. It's got about 1-2 lb of cherries in it at this point I have been adding slowly as I find them in the kitchen and there is a hint of cherry but not much.

yum.

This started at 1.048 and was ~1.004-1.006 or so when it got the bugs. It's down to 1.001 and I am thinking of bottling some of it up. Maybe pulling 1 gallon and replacing the volume with cherries to really up the cherry thing on the rest of it.

Any idea, oh great collective wisdom, if I could safely calculate priming sugar for say 2.4 volumes and bottle at this gravity in normal recycled commercial 12 oz bottles and not live to regret it?

3792
I could have sworn I had one of yours. Huh, there I go misattributing things again.

It's possible. I put one together but stopped sharing it years ago because Kai's was so much better. I didn't realize there were still any copies "in the wild".

well after closer examination it apears to be Kai's after all. Sorry Kai.

3793
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bourbon barrel porter
« on: June 04, 2013, 08:19:00 PM »
1. I don't know about minimum, but I've got a couple of jars of chips and bourbon just sitting around waiting.  I also use all of the bourbon they soak in, not just the chips.
2. As long as you enjoy the flavor.  I wouldn't waste top shelf bourbon as that's simply better by itself.  I use a variety of cheaper good tasting bourbons.
3. No worries.
4. I use mason jars.  If the plastic bowl has a lid, that should be OK.  I'd be worried about picking up flavors from the plastic, though.  Perhaps unnecessarily so.
5. I don't think I've gone beyond seven days.  Maybe 10 or so.  I would taste it every couple of days to check. Pull the chips when you hit the flavor you like.

FWIW, I like the flavors of the darker oak chips.
So you are saying the chips themselves never go into the beer? I just use them to flavor the bourbon then pour that in?


nope use both. just make sure to use the bourbon too cause it's got lots o' goodness

3794
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Gelatin fining and FC Question
« on: June 04, 2013, 03:14:37 PM »
Recently did  a 10 gallon Gratzer (Oak-smoked wheat beer) and fined with gelatin. i was gonna force carb by setting the pressure on a 28* corney and rolling it around on the floor. Will this cloud the beer up again? Or will the finings drop back out after a few days?

Yes it will redistribute all of the "stuff" you dropped out of solution with the gelatin.

I doubt it will re-clear because the gelatin has already been introduced and congealed. If you take a jello mold and shake the s*** out of it, it wont set back up in the mold; it will be water on top, jello on bottom. So you'll have some "chunks" of stuff fall out, but it will redistribute some of the haze.

If this is the case, can he clear with gelatin, pull the gunk out and then force carb by shaking?

he could jumper to a clean keg, and pull bright beer off the sediment/fining/gunk, then force carb in the clean keg.

3795
alternately you can download Sean Terrill's batch sparge simulator

I think you mean Kai's. That would definitely be my suggestion. If you're only using the first runnings estimating gravity becomes pretty simple.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparge_and_Party_Gyle_Simulator

I could have sworn I had one of yours. Huh, there I go misattributing things again.

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