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Messages - morticaixavier

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Equipment and Software / Re: Fridges vs Custom Made Coolers
« on: June 12, 2013, 10:27:00 AM »
So im currently in the process of redoing my garage and trying to plan out the electrical.  Money is a factor so im wondering if a custom made fridge(essentially a frame with insulation and ac) is as viable as a fridge?  Does anyone who has used both have some sort of opinion or technical advice to weigh in?  I dont have any specs or plans for the custom yet but i know its possible, ive seen others talking about it.


I would go for it. If you get an oversized AC unit for the space and disable the internal temp probe (just put it somewhere that stays warm) you should be able to get pretty cold. For the walls the rigid foam insulation seems to be popular but I don't know the prices of any of this stuff.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Orange Hefe?
« on: June 12, 2013, 10:19:06 AM »
Thanks, everyone! I found some natural orange extract and some sugar free Orange Crush flavoring on Amazon that I think might work but I'm not sure how much of it I would need for a 5 gallon batch. Thoughts?

Natural Orange Extract (a bit pricey)

Orange Crush (cheaper alternative)

Also, would it be crazy to add some lactose to it to give it an orange cream taste?

after the base beer is done pour 4 (four) 2fl samples and dose each one with a different measured amount of extract. When you decide what level you like scale that up to the remaining ounces in the batch and there you go. I would probably add a bit less than the scaled up amount, gently stir, and taste again cause it's easy to add more but...

Equipment and Software / Re: Plastic carboy
« on: June 12, 2013, 07:56:32 AM »
I use buckets myself but I see a lot of folks bemoaning the sucking airlock. I just wanted to point out that if you use the 1 piece airlocks (S shaped ones) this is not a concern as it will just bubble backwards.

Beer Recipes / Re: Imperial (Mexican) Stout Recipe Critique
« on: June 11, 2013, 07:56:28 PM »
I say go for it.

Bu tyeah, pick a neutral hop for 60  minutes. add some of the fuggles and maybe some hallertauer for earthy floral notes at 20 minutes and cal lit good. I have only brewed with cinnemon once and I made a tincture with vodka. It is a decent level of flavour but I think it got a little tanic from sitting on the sticks for a month. I might try some in the boil and then make a tea with water at packaging time and dose to taste with that.

Beer Recipes / Re: red velvet
« on: June 11, 2013, 07:52:25 PM »
well lowering the  gravity that much will change some of the water chemistry but I don't think you have to worry about harshness. It will be a bit minerally but that may be what they are after.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Log & Calculator for iPhone/iPad
« on: June 11, 2013, 07:47:32 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions. It definitely makes a lot of sense to switch to a volume/hour rate instead of a %/hour rate.

I'll put that on the list to update in the near future.

didn't mean to jump on you. hey if you can make it interface with the National Weather Service  or a personal weather station so it can take atmospheric conditions into account.  ;)

Going Pro / Re: First Pro Competition
« on: June 11, 2013, 03:20:50 PM »
Break a leg!

Equipment and Software / Re: Do I really need a wort chiller?
« on: June 11, 2013, 03:16:17 PM »
I've been meaning to ask about this. How many bottles does it typically take you to chill 5 gallons? I have a bunch of old PET bottles that would be perfect for this.

A 1:1 ratio of ice and boiling wort will end up at ~65°F. So 5 gallons of ice, roughly.

you forget the extra energy needed to turn ice into water.

Check out this site I found this at one point when I was trying to figure out how much ice to use a top off water.

1:1 ratio by weight of boiling wort (okay 211*f) and unrealistically warm ice (32*f) results in a temp of only 49*f. It takes approximately 30 times more energy to turn ice @ 32 degrees into water @ 33 degrees than it takes to turn water @ 33 degrees into water @ 34 degrees 

in fact, if you change nothing in the equation except that you are using WATER @ 32 degrees instead of ICE @ 32 degrees the resulting temp goes form 48 to 112

Homebrew Clubs / Re: My Own Beer testing
« on: June 11, 2013, 03:10:09 PM »
Well welcome to the wonderful world of good beer. Be prepared, there are a lot of craft/micro breweries out there and not many of them are striving to produce something that tastes like MGD.

From your list I would guess you might enjoy a number of American wheat beers (Widmer Hefeweizen, Sierra Nevada Old Chico, Pyramid hefeweizen).

MGD is a pilsner beer but I think that many craft lagers are going to seem way to bitter for you at first. The style is actually quite hoppy.

The Pub / Re: Beer Pouch - Capri Sun for adults...
« on: June 11, 2013, 02:49:37 PM »
that looks fairly cool!

it's actually a really innovative idea. I know pouches are not a new idea but this is the first time I have seen them touted for use with bubbly stuff.

If they are reusable (at 6+ bucks per growler they better be) they are a great idea.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold age?
« on: June 11, 2013, 01:43:14 PM »
Doesn't it depend upon the strain of yeast?  Some, like Cal ale will finish in a week.

sure, I have had beer finished and kegged in a week. But it's a narrow range of beers that will be at their best after that short a time (in a homebrew setting).

it depends on the yeast strain and the recipe in general. I was more speaking to the BoP place advertisement and the idea that every beer recipe can be done and ready to go after 1 week fermenting and 1 week cold crash. I would rather they did 1.6 weeks fermenting and .4 weeks cold crashing. for that matter you really only need about 1-2 days near 32 to drop most yeast strains out. so 12 days fermenting and 2 days cold crashing then to bottles.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Orange Hefe?
« on: June 11, 2013, 01:40:14 PM »
If you want a distinctly ORANGE taste you will indeed likely have to use flavourings. pretty sure that's how they make 'shock-top'. However there are hops that can give you a citrus note. You could try orange peel but I am not sure that's going to get you what you want either.

I would brew a nice simple hefe with 40% pils extract 60% wheat extract, bitter with something neutral or something noble. for the yeast you can use a german hefe yeast to get the banana/close thing going to some extent or use an American wheat yeast (or plain old dry us-05) to get a neutral flavor profile and then serve it with orange slices.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold age?
« on: June 11, 2013, 12:34:50 PM »
Cold age, in this context means BS. really what they are saying is that they rush your beer through a 1 week fermentation then cold crash it to drop yeast from suspension whether it is done or not and bottle it for you.

I'm willing to bet that ferment it pretty warm to make sure it attenuates all the way (notice I did NOT say finishes)


Cold crashing can be really useful if you have the ability by the way. If your beer is done, has reached FG and tastes good but the yeast is taking it's time dropping out cold crashing will often do the trick. I cold crash pretty much all my brews but I don't let the calendar decide when it's done. That's for the beer to decide.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Log & Calculator for iPhone/iPad
« on: June 11, 2013, 09:10:45 AM »
Hi Mark,

Just d/l'ed your app.  Looks good, but one problem I have right off the bat is that evaporation is in %, not gal./hr.  That's a deal breaker for me.  I don't boil off twice as much for a 10 gal. batch as I do for a 5 gal. batch.

Thanks for that suggestion.  I'm going to put that on the list.  I guess I designed the app expecting user to use it with just one brewing system.

I don't think the system changed, just the batch size. The point being that the amount of boil off is not a function of the batch size but of the kettle geometry, elevation, relative humidity, etc. If you set up your app to accept a singe volume/hour boil off amount it will work better.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What should I offer this guy?
« on: June 11, 2013, 07:54:39 AM »
Why? The guy is saying make an offer.

Offer him $500 for the pair and then work up from there. I wouldn't pay 2K for the two. Used like new- maybe. But used-used is like a old car. They are never worth what the owner thinks.

Negotiate hard in this case because of the pair's condition.

my point exactly. if he refuses to make a starting offer it's either because a) he doesn't know how much the stuff might be worth or b) he is hoping YOU don't know how much the stuff might be worth. either way if you wicked low ball him to start you will likely end up with a lower final price than if you offer what you think is fair right off the bat.

Unless you do your research and go it with a hard and fast amount you are willing to pay no budge. then offer whatever the stuff if actually worth and don't budge.

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