.75 gallons tops. if you use anti-foam probably more like .85.
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thanks fellas. crazy that it's shipped to washington and back. i hadn't even thought about where it would've been malted. i was born in yakima so i suppose that's okay too.
Yeastcalc mentions an "ideal gravity" of 1.037 for a starter - perhaps that was done to keep the grams of DME to milliliters of water ratio at a nice comfortable 10:100.
I'll assume the growth rate calculators were set up based on that OG, but does it really make that much of a difference in the growth rate or overall yeast health between a liter at 1.037 and a liter at 1.030?
I will leave the discussion of yeast health to the microbiologists, but overall growth rate would be less at a lower gravity just because there's less food for the yeast to eat.
since we are on the topic, anyone have general guidelines/thoughts on how big a single step starter should be? ive wondered if a one step 2.5ltr starter at 1.035 is fine, vs. 2 steps at 1.25lt each.
Sweet, thanks. I had it once in an ale. That was enough for me. What about lagers though?
Or ship it by a legal method.
I sometimes wonder at our collective mentality that businesses should just accept our defiance and that we shouldn't be expected to read the fine print on the ticket, agreeing to the contract of the what is accepted practice.
Sorry for the rant. I mean no offense. Its an $8 fix to a multimillion dollar problem is all...
Would we disregard BJCP guidelines or the Reinheitsgebot with such wanton? I think not! I rest my case. No further questions your honor
I learned from this forum to taste test for Acetaldehyde along the way. I don't know the fix if one exists but I would cold store a month and see what happens
But you're talking about ambient temperature, not the temperature of the fermenting beer, correct? Since yeast generate their own heat, and you're probably using a s#!%-ton of hops, I would go with the 60 degree spot. I know you're already done, but who cares if it takes a week or two longer to finish? Unless I'm mistaken, you were looking for a place to start fermentation, so if that stage takes a little longer, you will still dry-hop for the same amount of time, so don't have to worry about age affecting your hop character. If you're using the California or American ale yeast, it's pretty versatile and will just make a cleaner beer at a lower temperature. Just my 2 cents...
So I recently went with a friend to our LHBS to pick up ingredients for an 10 gallon extract recipe that we will be brewing for Big Brew day on Saturday.
Some of the grain that my friend gathered was not crushed while some was (the LHBS's mill is a little strange and you have to move the rollers on the bottom to get it going). I don't think he noticed it wasn't crushing properly. I didn't notice until I got home when I was putting away the grain that there appeared to be whole grain in the bag. I opened it up and...sure enough there was whole grain along with grain that was crushed.
My question is, can I run the grain through again without compromising the recipe? I know that double crushed grain will extract more flavor/sugars so I am concerned of extracting too much since we are using extract.