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Messages - morticaixavier

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4036
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Look what the stork droped off...
« on: April 23, 2013, 08:09:40 AM »
[...]2- sure you can do a 2.5 gallon boil and then top off with filtered or boiled and cooled water I would not use distilled water though as the mineral content in spring water is beneficial to the flavor and the yeast health. Just a FYI don't ever use reverse osmosis water though as it can kill the yeast as the osmotic pressure of RO water is higher than the cell wall of the yeast.

[...]

Are you sure about this? RO water is simply water that has been purified by being forced through a semi permeable barrier. Distilled water has less minerals than RO as it was evaporated and recondensed.

Regardless in an extract batch all those minerals are already in the extract and there is no need for more.

4037
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling Yeast Choice for Imperial Stout
« on: April 22, 2013, 03:44:25 PM »
I would not worry about bottle bombs with the champagne yeast. particularly with champagne bottles. those bottles can hold like 5 volumes can't they?

The "bombs" I was referring to were the bombs of messiness when you open a bottle and it foams all over the counter, not the actual glass-breaking kind of bottle bomb, which I have never encountered and consider to be a "homebrew myth." I think I may just go with the Champagne yeast due to its known consistency and the fact that it is 50¢. IME, if I use no additional yeast, it may take months to carbonate (this if from 4+ years ago when I tried to bottle-condition a ~1.070 chocolate stout that I had put considerable effort and expense into). I would rather use something that costs 50¢ and works than something that costs $4 and works.

Gotcha,

But gotta say. it is no myth. I have had several bottles explode and while I was not there it witness the violence of the explosion I have heard it happen (a soft pop from a closed cooler on the porch while I was on the other side of the house wall.) and seen the bottle that failed and the three bottles near it that were also broken by the shrapnel.

4038
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling Yeast Choice for Imperial Stout
« on: April 22, 2013, 03:13:27 PM »
I also agree you should be fine bottling with fresh ale yeast but using a wine/champagne yeast would not be a wrong idea since they are good into the double digits. It may be worth the added insurance to use wine yeast.

I've used EC-1118 champagne yeast to bottle several sours. It works well although it sometimes leaves behind a biscuit flavor the first few weeks. It does go away eventually. Once I run out of my EC-1118 supply I plan on switching to the rockpile strain. It is more neutral, hence why it is used at Russian River and other breweries for bottling. I'd suggest using that strain if you decide to use a wine strain.

Also keep in mind that while that stout has aged it will lose some dissolved CO2, especially if it was kept at warmer temperatures. If you have only aged it for a couple of months I would add just a touch extra priming sugar to make up for the lost dissolved CO2. I don't know of a priming calculator that calculates lost CO2 from aging and I don't know exactly how much is lost over what time at what temperature. For a couple of months of aging I would calculate priming sugar based on an extra 1-2 tenths of volume depending on how warm it aged. (So if you're carbing to 2.5 plug 2.6 or 2.7 into the calculator to find how much priming sugar to use.)

most of the priming calculators I know of take beer temp into consideration if you enter it accurately.

4039
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Look what the stork droped off...
« on: April 22, 2013, 03:11:53 PM »
Yeah, 2.5 gallon boil is fine. You can even use store bought ice to 'top off' although that is easier with a bucket then a carboy.

Secondary is not needed, not only because it's your first batch but because, with exception of a few specialized situations) it's just not needed. search around on here and you will see lot's of discussion on that topic.

+1 million on starting your second batch sooner rather than later. you will run out of your first batch faster than you can imagine.

4040
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wlp029 got hot on me
« on: April 22, 2013, 12:15:54 PM »
I use this yeast in my Kolsch and porter it's great and works fine in the upper 50s.

Funny thing though. I just sent my kolsch to a comp last weekend and the notes from the judges were that it was too clean.

one quote: "This should be a fruit ale"

and that from a national ranked judge. sad. anywho. I find that at 58-64 it's very clean. haven't had it hit 70 except at the end when I was trying to get it to finish up. Hadn't thought of it as a d-rest but I didn't have any diacetyl in the finished beer.

4041
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Fixing underprimed/undercarbed bottles
« on: April 22, 2013, 12:12:25 PM »
I would think that if you dissolved the known quantity of sugar in a known quantity of water and used a syringe you could avoid the mentos  effect. and probably get a lot closer to exactly the right amount of sugar in each bottle.

4042
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling Yeast Choice for Imperial Stout
« on: April 22, 2013, 12:10:08 PM »
I agree that the primary yeast is fine. However I recently went with champagne yeast on a barley wine and it worked really well. first time in a while I got really consistent carbonation on a strong beer. but that one was ~13% so slightly different.

I have heard and read in several places that champagne yeast has less ability to ferment maltose and other malt sugars than most ale yeast so on that front I think that you are right. I would not worry about bottle bombs with the champagne yeast. particularly with champagne bottles. those bottles can hold like 5 volumes can't they?

4043
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Making sure it carbonates?
« on: April 22, 2013, 12:04:39 PM »
Assuming it's not a high gravity beer (1.080+) it should be just fine. It doesn't hurt to add a little extra yeast at bottling though. I usually use a neutral yeast like us-05. Dry yeast is great for this because it's easier to dose out just half a package or so (and that's all you need).

4044
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Topping off a fermenter
« on: April 18, 2013, 02:29:40 PM »
i often have a few quarts of wort left over from mash, as my efficiency seems to be a touch higher than my program calculates. i top off with that when needing extra volume, and i do boil it just to be sure.

with wort that is a very good idea. there are a lot of microbes on that grain and not all of them are going to die at mash temps.

4045
Ingredients / Re: Cloudy Maris Otter - how to clear my EIPA
« on: April 18, 2013, 01:19:03 PM »
An opaque serving vessel?

just a thought. seems like I remember this discussion and it finally came down to wait it out or drink it cloudy.

4046
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopping a Kolsch
« on: April 18, 2013, 09:33:38 AM »
I go with just a FWH and 60 minute.

However, the first time I brewed my kolsch and entered it in a contest it was all FWH and they said it wasn't hoppy enough. second time I brewed and submitted I split the IBU's 2:1 between FWH and 60 minute. now the notes so far are too hoppy.

4047
Ingredients / Re: RO water
« on: April 16, 2013, 09:54:47 AM »
Thanks -- we probably have the same water source (Hetch Hetchy).

actually I think you're water is likely much better than mine. I live in Davis and we have (or had anyway) several deep wells that supplied our water. just full of all sorts of nasty minerals. I don't know if the East bay (Oakland and Berkeley) share a water resource with SF but I know the east bay water is quite good for brewing a variety of styles.

Going forward (and this might have already happened, I am not sure on the timeline) we will be getting our water out of the delta as Sacramento does now. That's quite good brewing water as well so hopefully in the future I will be able to start learning how to brew with more natural water.

4048
Ingredients / Re: RO water
« on: April 14, 2013, 02:50:46 PM »
Gosh, that was a long time ago. Not sure I remember. certainly couldn't make any definitive statements about the efficacy of cutting RO with spring water for cali common. but there were not major flaws that I would associate with water problems.

4049
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acetaldehyde
« on: April 12, 2013, 01:14:16 PM »
If you find some acetaldehyde you can sometimes mitigate it with an even warmer rest than your diacetyl rest. Acetaldehyde has a boiling temp of around 72f IIRC. so it will gas out if you keep the finished beer there for a couple days.

4050
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing Attire
« on: April 12, 2013, 09:07:06 AM »
My thesis:

All of the MOST bad a$$ manly men throughout history, until very recently, wore skirts of one kind or another.

The scotts, the romans (and associated cultures), the pacific islanders, the list goes on and on.

Germans don't wear kilts because they don't make them long enough.

ahh but back when they kicked the Romans buts they wore skirts.

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