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Messages - morticaixavier

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The Pub / Re: best ereader
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:16:04 AM »
My wife has a large screen android phone that is great for browsing and stuff, so I've played with those.  But I can type WAY faster and more accurately on my blackberry keyboard than on her touch screen.

I might do that though, it's on old phone and it's long past time to get a new one.

punatic, amazon has a library you can check books out from, at least for prime users.  I haven't used it much.

when I first got an android phone I felt the same way about typing speed, but then I learned to use the swype function and I think I am much faster on the touch screen now. instead of tapping each letter you just touch the first letter and move your finger through all the other letters in the word lifting off at the last letter. pretty slick once you get used to it and it gets used to you. It has learned all the brewing/beer specific vocab I have thrown at it quite well at this point and can get words like 'krausen' or 'grist', 'fermetation', etc. more accurately than I can type them on a full size key board.

The Pub / Re: Best TV theme song
« on: April 28, 2013, 10:00:33 PM »
I was going to go with Tom on the Greatest American Hero but then it came to me...

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract Mint Stout
« on: April 28, 2013, 07:47:18 AM »
For how you described the lack of head retention, yes perfectly.  It appears lasts for like 30 seconds and is gone.  As for the secondary fermentation, everyone has told me that its super important to do.   Should I really not bother with it?  If so, what styles of beer should I secondary ferment with as opposed to which ones I shouldn't?  As for the temperature, my beer got warm during the second week.

Well second week temp spike shouldn't really matter for feusels. What temp was the wort at when you pitched the yeast?
Is it possible the had retention issue is because your glasses aren't well rinsed?
On secondary, there is really one reason to do a secondary and that is if you want to save the yeast from primary and also want to add lots of fruit our dry hops. If you are planing to age a beer for a year before bottling that might be a second reason. But the beer it's fine in primary for better than a month.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Taking Newly Bottled Beer on a Plane
« on: April 26, 2013, 02:14:27 PM »
yeah it'll be fine. no worries. just give it some time to settle after the trip.

Ingredients / Re: Online stores
« on: April 26, 2013, 02:12:24 PM »
I'll put in my obligatory plug for 7 Bridges which is the only mostly organic store I have found. Rebel brewer and Northern Brewer and Morebeer occasionally will have some organic ingredients but 7 bridges has a great selection all the time!

As we've started selling our beer to a little deli that specializes in organic food.  I offered the owner to brew an organic version of our Amber.  I intended to buy such from 7 Bridges.  The owner said that they have had organic beer in the past, and nobody liked it, especially given the price premium for such.

I have noticed and heard from producers of both beer and wine that even if you brew/vint with organic ingredients you sometimes are better off leaving that info off the label because people still have an attitude about organic wine and beer that if it were really good they wouldn't need to advertise. meh. I have not noticed a difference in ingredient quality.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Extract Mint Stout
« on: April 26, 2013, 10:12:01 AM »
Alright, I will try weighing form now on but...most of my stuff has only given me measurements.  Should I just then get a scale and go off of a cup is 8 oz so if I need 3/4 a cup weight to 6 oz?  Also heat may have been an issue, I came home one day to our air conditioning being off and the whole house being 81 degrees.

A cup of sugar is around 6 oz. (actually 4.5-6.5 probably, depending on size, of granule, humidity etc.)

I would guess that part of the problem is a but too much sugar (overcarbed problem) but the lack of head retention... you say it's like pepsi? so it pours and foam forms but then immediately falls back leaving no foam? When in the ferment process did it get up into the 80s? if that happened in the first three days or so it could well have caused fuesels to form which can wreak havoc on head retention. There are a range of infections that could account both for the lack of head and the higher than expected carbonation as well.

A couple of things to try next time:

1) Skip the secondary, not needed, just an additional opportunity for something to get messed up.
2) skip the dark DME and make up for the color with some more dark malts and some dark crystal in the steeping grains
3)watch that ferm temp, particularly in the early (first 3-4) days of fermentation.
4) weigh instead of measure the priming sugar
5) think about using a no-rinse sanitizer. When you rinse sanitary vessels with un-sanitized water you risk undoing your sanitation.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Want to help me name a beer?
« on: April 26, 2013, 08:31:57 AM »

HA HA!!!!

Although to work I think you need the question mark "Tim?"

Ingredients / Re: Online stores
« on: April 26, 2013, 08:10:44 AM »
I'll put in my obligatory plug for 7 Bridges which is the only mostly organic store I have found. Rebel brewer and Northern Brewer and Morebeer occasionally will have some organic ingredients but 7 bridges has a great selection all the time!

Pimp My System / Re: Finished 1BBL system
« on: April 25, 2013, 01:55:47 PM »
Sweet set-up.  Very jealous.  Good luck with it!


Thanks Dave
When I get home from the road I will be buying a large freezer for the 40 gal conical fermenter and them i will be able to ferment the whole batch rather than using 6 carboys.

why skimp now? go for a walk in! you'll want the space before long. I mean are you really only going to get the 1 40 gallon conical?  ;D

Pay no attention to me, just jealous

Equipment and Software / Re: Spoon material
« on: April 25, 2013, 11:50:41 AM »
I use a silicon spoonula but mostly just because that's what I have around. If your talking about stirring while chilling then go with something that can be sanitized (stainless is first choice but the silicon seems to work well at least so far **knock on wood **)

Gonna make a starter for next weekends kolsch. and continue quality control on the last batch of course, can't let QC slip man. Let that go and it's all down hill.

Equipment and Software / Re: Boiling question for propane burners
« on: April 24, 2013, 02:56:31 PM »
10-15% evaporation is plenty for what we're looking to accomplish in the boil. Any more than that and you're just wasting propane.

Just to clarify, would more evap. simply make less beer or is there another risk involved (taste, etc.) with increased evap. during boil? Thanks!

less stronger beer. but if you hop a beer expecting say 4.5% abv and you end up with 6% abv the beer will taste quite different. Not as bitter and potentially unbalanced.

I sometimes intentionally do a very long boil with lots of evaporation on strong beers like barley wines because it will develop different flavours do to the longer boil. It is refered to as kettle carmelization although it is not really carmelization. The wort will get darker and sweeter and it can produce more raisiny dark fruit flavours.

Equipment and Software / Re: Boiling question for propane burners
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:53:16 AM »
Measuring evaporation would be tough for me to judge. Are you saying its doesn't need to be an explosive boil the whole time?

for sure not explosive. and you will learn your systems range of evaporation. think boiling pasta.

Equipment and Software / Re: Boiling question for propane burners
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:50:24 AM »
I was going to add that, at least with my kettle, you can sort of tell when the temp of the kettle has reached equilibrium with the wort after flame out when the wort actually stops boiling. for me that takes maybe 30 seconds or so. so yeah a minute should be safe.

Equipment and Software / Re: Boiling question for propane burners
« on: April 24, 2013, 11:19:24 AM »
Once a boil is achieved you can feather the flame back to maintain a rolling but not rollicking boil. I think it's safe to assume that the bottom of the pot is considerably hotter than 212 degrees when the flame is on but I would guess (An I too am not one of those science guys) that it will drop pretty quickly after flame out. as long as the water is already in the tub when you lower the kettle in it won't melt... I think...

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