Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - morticaixavier

Pages: 1 ... 274 275 [276] 277 278 ... 517
4126
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 06, 2013, 08:56:15 AM »
I think id rather go the real fruit way rather then the extract route.  extracts in coffees etc tend to give me heart burn and in this scenario, like most others, id rather make a higher quality product by paying a bit more then go the cheap route.  Ill have to start digging threw recipes to find a blackberry wheat i like that also goes along with the barleywine we will make.  Ive been eyeing Gordon Strongs English barleywine, maybe ill see if things match up!

not familiar with it but if it's mostly two row with minimal crystal malt it should work well if you just cap the mash with ~5 lb of wheat/wheat malt and a little pils or 2 row (maybe a lb)

4127
Are you weighing out corn or table sugar?  Or do you use one of the various carb tabs?

Table sugar, 2.5 g/bottle for ~2.4 vol CO2. If they're intended for competition or tasting (multiple small glasses), I'll use 3.0 g/bottle for ~2.7 vol.

This is interesting. I have had consistant issues getting the right carbonation on the 6er or two I bottle for comps etc. I will try this next time.

4128
Equipment and Software / Re: hop rhizomes newbie
« on: March 05, 2013, 03:35:14 PM »
The bines are trainable and much prefer to go vertical. If you train them horizontal you will get less harvest but generally you get a lot anyway so it may be fine.

My Cascade plant goes about 6' up a deer fence, than horizontal across the top.  The plant is maybe 10-11 years old now.  My harvest averages about 20 lb. before drying from a single plant.

so you get ~4 lbs per plant dry, looks like the industry standard (whatever that is) is about 2.8 tons per hectare which very roughly works out to about 10 lbs per plant.

4129
Equipment and Software / Re: hop rhizomes newbie
« on: March 05, 2013, 03:08:23 PM »
On a whim I ordered some rhizomes; planning to drop them on a hill that has vigorous plant growth without watering.  It's north facing, coastal, with some direct sunlight.

Asking for insight:

* what's a minimum depth for soil?  It's 1 to 4 inches of hard-pack on clay, all needing rework to make loamy.  Can I get by with 8 to 12 inches of depth?

* are hop vines trainable?  I can set them up to go 16' tall, but I'd rather have them run horizontally after a 3 to 6 foot rise.  Would it negatively affect the plant?

Thanks!

8-12 inches of rich welld drained loam will be okay, you will want to top dress every year so that will increase with time as well.

Some direct light is not great. They will take as much light as you can give them and will produce much better with more.

The bines are trainable and much prefer to go vertical. If you train them horizontal you will get less harvest but generally you get a lot anyway so it may be fine.

4130
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 05, 2013, 02:10:02 PM »

On the blackberry wheat recipe if not partigyle I am fond of 40% 2 row 60% wheat. I don't know how you want to do the fruit part so I will leave that to someone else.

I honestly have no clue how to do the blackberry part, i havent done much reading on fruit beers as they tend to not be my thing.  suggestions would be wonderful and i can make a decision from there.

I THINK the Long Trail Black Beary wheat is made with blackberry flavoring. There are a range of extract and flavoring products available. If you use one I would wait till fermentation is over and dose a small sample before packaging to determine the correct level, then scale it up. If you do this the generally accepted wise course is to cut the 'scaled up' amount by 20% or so and taste again after adding that to the full batch.

You could add real (fresh or frozen) fruit but it is out of season and will be expensive. there might be fruit purees available. Check out oregonfruit.com. those you could just add to the primary after most the fermentation starts to die down a bit.  The general rule is 1-2 lb per gallon (low side for purees I believe.)

4131
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:56:26 PM »
My Ding-A-Ling - Chuck Berry

4132
Beer Recipes / Re: Low gravity saison
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:06:18 PM »
I think you'll find that 3711 will have no trouble taking a 1.039 beer all the way down to 1.000, so I wouldn't hesitate to raise the mash temp to 154 to see if you could leave a couple points on the hydrometer.  From a recipe standpoint, I would probably throw in 4 oz of acidulated malt, because my belief is that it adds a little bit of a twang in the finish that really works well in the style.  I'm not sure whether I'd go with the Special B myself, maybe a bit of aromatic or special roast to add complexity.

Good luck with the brew!  I'm a big fan of making small saisons to build up my yeast, and I would be very interested in reading a followup posted to this thread once you know how it turns out.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably shoot for the mid-150's for my mash temp, then. Aromatic sounds like a good addition - I may end up adding a few ounces of that here. The Special B is partly because I want a touch of crystal malt here to keep it from drying out completely, and partly because I'm just a big fan of Special B (especially in most Belgian styles). I don't necessarily want a big crystal malt flavor, but I've had some Saisons with a considerable amount of crystal malt and they have worked surprisingly well.

I prefer lactic acid to acidulated malt for repeatability purposes, but I agree about the twang. I'm lucky to have low sodium in my brewing water, so I may even add some extra baking soda so I can get a little extra lactic acid in there and still keep my mash pH in the 5.3-5.4 range.

If you are adding the lactic for twang and not for pH adjustment why not just add it to the kettle? then you don't have to mess around with adding lime or soda and acid.

4133
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 05, 2013, 11:20:40 AM »
You should be able to do that.

Check out sean Terrill's partigyle calculator, that's a goodplace to start. It is targeted at batch spargers, so if you fly sparge google partigyle calculators and there are some others out that with that assumption built in.

So for the barley wine you want (and this is just ball park assuming 5 gallons of each beer)
~25 lbs grain (I like mostly to all 2 row or mostly to all munich for a super malty BW)
mash around 2 qt/lb and a low temp (149-153)
after 1-2 hours run that off into your kettle and start boiling

Add a couple lb pils malt or 2 row, some 3-4 lbs wheat or wheat malt or a combination and mash in with an amount of water = to your desired pre-boil volume on the second beer + a couple quarts. aim for a higher temp, maybe (155-160) and let that mash for another 30-45 minutes. Run off into a second kettle and start that boil.

On the blackberry wheat recipe if not partigyle I am fond of 40% 2 row 60% wheat. I don't know how you want to do the fruit part so I will leave that to someone else.

4134
My primary concern is the batch in progress right now, so switching to kegging is not an option in the next 3 days. I am just looking for some info as to whether Biofine will drop out too much of the yeast thereby preventing regular carbonation in the bottle.

I'm sorry  I really didn't mean to sound snarky. And I do not know the answer to your question but I would be hesitant to remove that much yeast and still attempt it. I would go ahead and add a little yeast at bottling time. maybe .5 packets of us-05 per 5 gallons.

I was simply saying that you WILL end up with sediment if you do this so the idea of drinking straight out of the bottle is out unless you want to drink some yeast which is not that big of a deal either.

4135
I have an Imperial Nut Brown in primary fermentation - today is the 11th day in the primary. After two weeks, assuming I have hit the appropriate FG, I'd like to rack it and add Biofine, then bottle it once the Biofine has done its work (maybe 24-36hrs, based on visual).

I used Biofine recently in a batch of mead I made, and it had an amazing effect even within the first few hours. Over a month after bottling there is almost zero visible sediment in the bottles. So I figured it would be great to use this stuff in beer, but I want to make sure it will not drop out all or too much of the yeast since I will be bottle conditioning.

Just to clarify (no pun intended!), I'm looking for opinions or experience on using Biofine after fermentation is complete, not to stir up (again, no pun intended) epic battles about how long to wait before racking to secondary or whether secondary fermentation is necessary or beneficial. I'm only planning on racking it in order to get the Biofine mixed in without kicking up the yeast cake, so if the consensus is that the Biofine will drop out too much yeast then I'll just bottle straight out of the primary after the two-week mark, again assuming the correct FG has been reached. I would love to be able to drink a home brew straight from the bottle rather than decanting and leaving that precious bit behind, but maybe I'm just crazy.

There will be a little yeast left behind in the bottle. I don't see how you would avoid that AND bottle condition. The yeast that produce the co2 will drop out when the food supply is exhausted.

If you want perfectly clear beer that you can drink straight from the bottle (does it matter if it's perfectly clear at that point? can you see it?) try kegging and bottling from the keg.

I regularly see a little sediment in a bottle of Sierra Nevada because they are bottle conditioned.

4136
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: March 04, 2013, 01:03:33 PM »
Good Time Charlies Back In Town - Spider John Koerner

4137
All Grain Brewing / Re: hochkurz mash
« on: March 04, 2013, 09:49:02 AM »
Decoction can boost efficiency because more starch is gelatanized (sp?) during the boil stage so conversion efficiency is higher. Longer overall mash times will also increase conversion and possible overall efficiency.

Did you do anything to control your mash pH that you don't normally do? that can also boost efficiency.

4138
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: silly yeast prop questions
« on: March 02, 2013, 04:20:56 PM »
I know there are yeast nutrients on the market that are made out of autolyzed yeast. The idea being that the things yeast need to grow are in other yeast already.

4139
Ingredients / Re: Adding Gypsum to Beer
« on: March 01, 2013, 02:54:27 PM »
I can't claim to have tried it. I did try calcium chloride to interesting effect. I think it was Martin that was talking about that. maybe Kai? one of the water gurus

4140
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Mini-Keg Stainless Steel 2L Growler
« on: March 01, 2013, 09:04:27 AM »
That site has a lot of cool stuff. And $34.50 for a 7 gallon stainless steel carboy is not a bad price at all.

34.50 for that carboy would be a rockin deal, unfortunatly if you actually click on the link the carboy is 186.00  :'(
http://www.dwbrewproducts.com/shop/product_info.php/gal-stainless-steel-carboy-p-59?osCsid=7e086b2f63873607b77b87df186c7687

Pages: 1 ... 274 275 [276] 277 278 ... 517