Not 100% but fairly sure olives have umami. in which case they will make anything taste better. like serving sauted mushrooms on top of the hummus.
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so you get ~4 lbs per plant dry, looks like the industry standard (whatever that is) is about 2.8 tons per hectare which very roughly works out to about 10 lbs per plant.
Yeah, that's about average. It's been as high as 7 lb. from the one plant after drying. Even I can't use 4-7 lb. of Cascades in a year. And around here, trying to give away Cascade hops is like trying to give away zucchini in August!
I think id rather go the real fruit way rather then the extract route. extracts in coffees etc tend to give me heart burn and in this scenario, like most others, id rather make a higher quality product by paying a bit more then go the cheap route. Ill have to start digging threw recipes to find a blackberry wheat i like that also goes along with the barleywine we will make. Ive been eyeing Gordon Strongs English barleywine, maybe ill see if things match up!
Are you weighing out corn or table sugar? Or do you use one of the various carb tabs?
Table sugar, 2.5 g/bottle for ~2.4 vol CO2. If they're intended for competition or tasting (multiple small glasses), I'll use 3.0 g/bottle for ~2.7 vol.
The bines are trainable and much prefer to go vertical. If you train them horizontal you will get less harvest but generally you get a lot anyway so it may be fine.
My Cascade plant goes about 6' up a deer fence, than horizontal across the top. The plant is maybe 10-11 years old now. My harvest averages about 20 lb. before drying from a single plant.
On a whim I ordered some rhizomes; planning to drop them on a hill that has vigorous plant growth without watering. It's north facing, coastal, with some direct sunlight.
Asking for insight:
* what's a minimum depth for soil? It's 1 to 4 inches of hard-pack on clay, all needing rework to make loamy. Can I get by with 8 to 12 inches of depth?
* are hop vines trainable? I can set them up to go 16' tall, but I'd rather have them run horizontally after a 3 to 6 foot rise. Would it negatively affect the plant?
On the blackberry wheat recipe if not partigyle I am fond of 40% 2 row 60% wheat. I don't know how you want to do the fruit part so I will leave that to someone else.
I honestly have no clue how to do the blackberry part, i havent done much reading on fruit beers as they tend to not be my thing. suggestions would be wonderful and i can make a decision from there.
I think you'll find that 3711 will have no trouble taking a 1.039 beer all the way down to 1.000, so I wouldn't hesitate to raise the mash temp to 154 to see if you could leave a couple points on the hydrometer. From a recipe standpoint, I would probably throw in 4 oz of acidulated malt, because my belief is that it adds a little bit of a twang in the finish that really works well in the style. I'm not sure whether I'd go with the Special B myself, maybe a bit of aromatic or special roast to add complexity.
Good luck with the brew! I'm a big fan of making small saisons to build up my yeast, and I would be very interested in reading a followup posted to this thread once you know how it turns out.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably shoot for the mid-150's for my mash temp, then. Aromatic sounds like a good addition - I may end up adding a few ounces of that here. The Special B is partly because I want a touch of crystal malt here to keep it from drying out completely, and partly because I'm just a big fan of Special B (especially in most Belgian styles). I don't necessarily want a big crystal malt flavor, but I've had some Saisons with a considerable amount of crystal malt and they have worked surprisingly well.
I prefer lactic acid to acidulated malt for repeatability purposes, but I agree about the twang. I'm lucky to have low sodium in my brewing water, so I may even add some extra baking soda so I can get a little extra lactic acid in there and still keep my mash pH in the 5.3-5.4 range.
My primary concern is the batch in progress right now, so switching to kegging is not an option in the next 3 days. I am just looking for some info as to whether Biofine will drop out too much of the yeast thereby preventing regular carbonation in the bottle.
I have an Imperial Nut Brown in primary fermentation - today is the 11th day in the primary. After two weeks, assuming I have hit the appropriate FG, I'd like to rack it and add Biofine, then bottle it once the Biofine has done its work (maybe 24-36hrs, based on visual).
I used Biofine recently in a batch of mead I made, and it had an amazing effect even within the first few hours. Over a month after bottling there is almost zero visible sediment in the bottles. So I figured it would be great to use this stuff in beer, but I want to make sure it will not drop out all or too much of the yeast since I will be bottle conditioning.
Just to clarify (no pun intended!), I'm looking for opinions or experience on using Biofine after fermentation is complete, not to stir up (again, no pun intended) epic battles about how long to wait before racking to secondary or whether secondary fermentation is necessary or beneficial. I'm only planning on racking it in order to get the Biofine mixed in without kicking up the yeast cake, so if the consensus is that the Biofine will drop out too much yeast then I'll just bottle straight out of the primary after the two-week mark, again assuming the correct FG has been reached. I would love to be able to drink a home brew straight from the bottle rather than decanting and leaving that precious bit behind, but maybe I'm just crazy.