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Messages - morticaixavier

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4126
Equipment and Software / Re: hop rhizomes newbie
« on: March 05, 2013, 03:08:23 PM »
On a whim I ordered some rhizomes; planning to drop them on a hill that has vigorous plant growth without watering.  It's north facing, coastal, with some direct sunlight.

Asking for insight:

* what's a minimum depth for soil?  It's 1 to 4 inches of hard-pack on clay, all needing rework to make loamy.  Can I get by with 8 to 12 inches of depth?

* are hop vines trainable?  I can set them up to go 16' tall, but I'd rather have them run horizontally after a 3 to 6 foot rise.  Would it negatively affect the plant?

Thanks!

8-12 inches of rich welld drained loam will be okay, you will want to top dress every year so that will increase with time as well.

Some direct light is not great. They will take as much light as you can give them and will produce much better with more.

The bines are trainable and much prefer to go vertical. If you train them horizontal you will get less harvest but generally you get a lot anyway so it may be fine.

4127
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 05, 2013, 02:10:02 PM »

On the blackberry wheat recipe if not partigyle I am fond of 40% 2 row 60% wheat. I don't know how you want to do the fruit part so I will leave that to someone else.

I honestly have no clue how to do the blackberry part, i havent done much reading on fruit beers as they tend to not be my thing.  suggestions would be wonderful and i can make a decision from there.

I THINK the Long Trail Black Beary wheat is made with blackberry flavoring. There are a range of extract and flavoring products available. If you use one I would wait till fermentation is over and dose a small sample before packaging to determine the correct level, then scale it up. If you do this the generally accepted wise course is to cut the 'scaled up' amount by 20% or so and taste again after adding that to the full batch.

You could add real (fresh or frozen) fruit but it is out of season and will be expensive. there might be fruit purees available. Check out oregonfruit.com. those you could just add to the primary after most the fermentation starts to die down a bit.  The general rule is 1-2 lb per gallon (low side for purees I believe.)

4128
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:56:26 PM »
My Ding-A-Ling - Chuck Berry

4129
Beer Recipes / Re: Low gravity saison
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:06:18 PM »
I think you'll find that 3711 will have no trouble taking a 1.039 beer all the way down to 1.000, so I wouldn't hesitate to raise the mash temp to 154 to see if you could leave a couple points on the hydrometer.  From a recipe standpoint, I would probably throw in 4 oz of acidulated malt, because my belief is that it adds a little bit of a twang in the finish that really works well in the style.  I'm not sure whether I'd go with the Special B myself, maybe a bit of aromatic or special roast to add complexity.

Good luck with the brew!  I'm a big fan of making small saisons to build up my yeast, and I would be very interested in reading a followup posted to this thread once you know how it turns out.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably shoot for the mid-150's for my mash temp, then. Aromatic sounds like a good addition - I may end up adding a few ounces of that here. The Special B is partly because I want a touch of crystal malt here to keep it from drying out completely, and partly because I'm just a big fan of Special B (especially in most Belgian styles). I don't necessarily want a big crystal malt flavor, but I've had some Saisons with a considerable amount of crystal malt and they have worked surprisingly well.

I prefer lactic acid to acidulated malt for repeatability purposes, but I agree about the twang. I'm lucky to have low sodium in my brewing water, so I may even add some extra baking soda so I can get a little extra lactic acid in there and still keep my mash pH in the 5.3-5.4 range.

If you are adding the lactic for twang and not for pH adjustment why not just add it to the kettle? then you don't have to mess around with adding lime or soda and acid.

4130
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 05, 2013, 11:20:40 AM »
You should be able to do that.

Check out sean Terrill's partigyle calculator, that's a goodplace to start. It is targeted at batch spargers, so if you fly sparge google partigyle calculators and there are some others out that with that assumption built in.

So for the barley wine you want (and this is just ball park assuming 5 gallons of each beer)
~25 lbs grain (I like mostly to all 2 row or mostly to all munich for a super malty BW)
mash around 2 qt/lb and a low temp (149-153)
after 1-2 hours run that off into your kettle and start boiling

Add a couple lb pils malt or 2 row, some 3-4 lbs wheat or wheat malt or a combination and mash in with an amount of water = to your desired pre-boil volume on the second beer + a couple quarts. aim for a higher temp, maybe (155-160) and let that mash for another 30-45 minutes. Run off into a second kettle and start that boil.

On the blackberry wheat recipe if not partigyle I am fond of 40% 2 row 60% wheat. I don't know how you want to do the fruit part so I will leave that to someone else.

4131
My primary concern is the batch in progress right now, so switching to kegging is not an option in the next 3 days. I am just looking for some info as to whether Biofine will drop out too much of the yeast thereby preventing regular carbonation in the bottle.

I'm sorry  I really didn't mean to sound snarky. And I do not know the answer to your question but I would be hesitant to remove that much yeast and still attempt it. I would go ahead and add a little yeast at bottling time. maybe .5 packets of us-05 per 5 gallons.

I was simply saying that you WILL end up with sediment if you do this so the idea of drinking straight out of the bottle is out unless you want to drink some yeast which is not that big of a deal either.

4132
I have an Imperial Nut Brown in primary fermentation - today is the 11th day in the primary. After two weeks, assuming I have hit the appropriate FG, I'd like to rack it and add Biofine, then bottle it once the Biofine has done its work (maybe 24-36hrs, based on visual).

I used Biofine recently in a batch of mead I made, and it had an amazing effect even within the first few hours. Over a month after bottling there is almost zero visible sediment in the bottles. So I figured it would be great to use this stuff in beer, but I want to make sure it will not drop out all or too much of the yeast since I will be bottle conditioning.

Just to clarify (no pun intended!), I'm looking for opinions or experience on using Biofine after fermentation is complete, not to stir up (again, no pun intended) epic battles about how long to wait before racking to secondary or whether secondary fermentation is necessary or beneficial. I'm only planning on racking it in order to get the Biofine mixed in without kicking up the yeast cake, so if the consensus is that the Biofine will drop out too much yeast then I'll just bottle straight out of the primary after the two-week mark, again assuming the correct FG has been reached. I would love to be able to drink a home brew straight from the bottle rather than decanting and leaving that precious bit behind, but maybe I'm just crazy.

There will be a little yeast left behind in the bottle. I don't see how you would avoid that AND bottle condition. The yeast that produce the co2 will drop out when the food supply is exhausted.

If you want perfectly clear beer that you can drink straight from the bottle (does it matter if it's perfectly clear at that point? can you see it?) try kegging and bottling from the keg.

I regularly see a little sediment in a bottle of Sierra Nevada because they are bottle conditioned.

4133
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: March 04, 2013, 01:03:33 PM »
Good Time Charlies Back In Town - Spider John Koerner

4134
All Grain Brewing / Re: hochkurz mash
« on: March 04, 2013, 09:49:02 AM »
Decoction can boost efficiency because more starch is gelatanized (sp?) during the boil stage so conversion efficiency is higher. Longer overall mash times will also increase conversion and possible overall efficiency.

Did you do anything to control your mash pH that you don't normally do? that can also boost efficiency.

4135
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: silly yeast prop questions
« on: March 02, 2013, 04:20:56 PM »
I know there are yeast nutrients on the market that are made out of autolyzed yeast. The idea being that the things yeast need to grow are in other yeast already.

4136
Ingredients / Re: Adding Gypsum to Beer
« on: March 01, 2013, 02:54:27 PM »
I can't claim to have tried it. I did try calcium chloride to interesting effect. I think it was Martin that was talking about that. maybe Kai? one of the water gurus

4137
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Mini-Keg Stainless Steel 2L Growler
« on: March 01, 2013, 09:04:27 AM »
That site has a lot of cool stuff. And $34.50 for a 7 gallon stainless steel carboy is not a bad price at all.

34.50 for that carboy would be a rockin deal, unfortunatly if you actually click on the link the carboy is 186.00  :'(
http://www.dwbrewproducts.com/shop/product_info.php/gal-stainless-steel-carboy-p-59?osCsid=7e086b2f63873607b77b87df186c7687

4138
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: silly yeast prop questions
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:52:15 AM »
Look for white yeast descending as the starter gravity approaches its final destination.

 :), I have had a nice krausen for a few days now, and am getting a nice white layer on top of the grey.
I am going to step it up and give it a taste when I am done.

Any common household ingredients that can act as yeast nutrient?  I appreciate your recommendation Tom, but do not have any on hand.  Just wondering.

Thanks for the advise.

you could boil some yeast for yeast nutrient. boil in a little water and add that? I don't know if this is a good idea or not. Tom can probably tell us though.

4139
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Bigfoot 2013
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:48:28 AM »
Sooooooooo, how is it?

It's good. I much prefer the bigfoot with a couple years on it but as usual it's not cloying, big hop bitterness and some late hop character. Well positioned for some age. as those late hops dissapear and some of the edge fades off the bitterness the sweet malty/caramel character will fade in nicely I suspect.

4140
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: a10t2 - Sean, why don't you like Chico?
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:44:13 AM »
i guess that makes sense., as long as the package is not mislabeled.  Is there a thing as trojan yeast?

I hear using Trojan yeast is a good method to prevent infection.
Trojan yeast is all candida albicans

okay, so I had to google it but ewww

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