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Messages - morticaixavier

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4126
Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:51:53 AM »
you want to make sure the yeast have enough calcium but other than that I don't see why that wouldn't work

4127
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:27:53 AM »
Eh, so very true. Great point... Maybe I squeak out a 1 gallon AG batch because I'm such a cheapO.  For a strange reason, I think it may be my auto siphon and/or it's hose.  Any particular reason why you mentioned that? Is it common? Thanks

it's hard to get the tubing really clean. I like to replace my tubing every 10 or so batches just because you can never get IN there to really clean stuff up.

Guess I've been lucky, then.  I don't think I've replaced my tubing in 10 years, let alone 10 batches!

either that or I have been over cautious  ;D

4128
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:12:27 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

My understanding of how it works is that the gas does not form layers in that way but rather mixes uniformly in the container (over time, of course, not immediately).

Regardless, purging it a couple times should do a pretty good job.

It mixes initially but in absence of air currents or over movement it will form layers. however it takes very little to cause the gases to mix again. but what hopfen says makes a lot more sense to me. you are really just diluting the o2 until you are at levels where it just doesn't matter anymore.

4129
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 10, 2012, 09:38:28 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

4130
Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 08:40:13 AM »
Try taking the salts out in bru'n water then check the mash ph on the mash acidification and sparge acidification sheets. unless you are doing a very light colored beer it's probably not a huge issue pH wise and you could add them to the kettle. but stirring your sparge water really well should get the salts to disolve, unless you are using chalk, that doesn't like to disolve at all.

4131
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 09, 2012, 09:12:44 PM »
Eh, so very true. Great point... Maybe I squeak out a 1 gallon AG batch because I'm such a cheapO.  For a strange reason, I think it may be my auto siphon and/or it's hose.  Any particular reason why you mentioned that? Is it common? Thanks

it's hard to get the tubing really clean. I like to replace my tubing every 10 or so batches just because you can never get IN there to really clean stuff up.

4132
Ingredients / Re: Cinnamon
« on: December 09, 2012, 08:24:00 PM »
On the astringency front I can speak to that. I just kegged a stout with a tincture of ceylon cinnamon 3 sticks in a small bottle of vodka for about a month. I am noticing a distinct woody astringency. similar to that found in oak aged beers. It's okay and once the beer warms up a bit it fades into the background but be aware.

Cinnamon is bark from a tree so woody astringency from a one month soak does not surprise me. (Bet it went into the Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Stout.) I limit my cinnamon soak between 1-2 weeks.  The common cinnamon, Cassia is much worse. It smells sweeter but is much more astringent.  Stick with the Ceylon, it is the best.

Yup it was the stout. it still tastes good but there is a note of woodiness. I was thinking about adding a little cassia to bump the flavour a bit as the ceylon is quite subtle but I think I am going to leave it be at least for now.

4133
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 09, 2012, 08:22:24 PM »
I'm using three piece.  It won't fit with S type unless I'm using a 3 gallon carboy.. What do you mean about the foil, u skip the airlock all together, throughout the entire fermentation??

In the short term, fermentation is putting out enough CO2 to keep oxygen out of the beer, even without an airlock. This is why open fermentation works. I wouldn't do any long-term aging without a proper airlock, but a couple of weeks in the initial primary vessel shouldn't pose any significant issues. I have more fermenters than airlocks, so I have just loosely placed an undrilled lid on a bucket fermenter when I've run out of airlocks with no ill effects.

yup that's what I meant

4134
Ingredients / Re: Cinnamon
« on: December 09, 2012, 03:04:25 PM »
On the astringency front I can speak to that. I just kegged a stout with a tincture of ceylon cinnamon 3 sticks in a small bottle of vodka for about a month. I am noticing a distinct woody astringency. similar to that found in oak aged beers. It's okay and once the beer warms up a bit it fades into the background but be aware. 

4135
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 09, 2012, 02:59:48 PM »
Thank you for reply. Acetobacter, is what the gentlemen said!  What about a plastic auto-siphon?  Little pricey and I rather not toss that.. but I guess if I need to I will. And is bleach OK? (is that chlorine dioxide  :-\?)

Also, I feel like I don't over fill that airlock and I still get issues. In fact, I feel I'm a little anal about hitting that line. Thanks again

Are you using the S type airlock or the three piece type? I don't know of a way to prevent some suckback on the 3 piece type.

+1 on NOT the mold. I have mold in my chamber all the time and I never get infections from it. I even skip the airlock and just put a piece of sanitized foil over the hole in the bucket sometimes with no ill effects.

4136
All Things Food / Re: Sourdough starter from sour mashed grain
« on: December 07, 2012, 04:31:18 PM »
that's pretty cool! alot of sourdough starter recipes actually have you add a small amount of bread yeast at the begining so I bet adding a bottle of BW to a normal bread sponge starter would be a great way to kick start your sourdough, then just leave it alone and feed it as normal and you would still develope some funky wild yeast over time.

4137
All Grain Brewing / Re: step mashing or single infusion
« on: December 07, 2012, 09:54:44 AM »
For an all pils malt tripel or pilsner, I almost always do a 90 min, mash at 148.

Denny - do you think the Pils needs longer to convert?  Just curious, as last brew session my Belgian blonde came out lower than I expected (again) with a 60 minute mash.

My stout was spot on, but was MO and not Pils.  Same mash schedule.

I did not do an iodine test, though I know I should.

I think it is more to do with the temp than the malt, although lower diastatic power malts will also take longer. The enzymes act more quickly at higher temps so if you mash lower you need to mash longer to get full conversion.

4138
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Update, racked to keg, taste
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:52:07 AM »
To me, it seems that whole cinnamon sticks really need extended contact time to release their flavor. I'm not surprised that your not getting much from a 5 minute steep.

+1, I just added 250 ml of vodka that had been soaking on 5 broken up cinnamon sticks(true cinnamon instead of cassia, so the flavour and heat is more subdued) for a month almost to 5 gallons of stout and it's still a subtle note in the flavour and a bit more in the aroma. you might be able to steep some additional cinnamon in boiling water, like making tea, and add that if you want more flavour.

4139
Classifieds / Re: 5 Gallon Whiskey Soaked Barrels now available!
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:44:20 AM »
Thanks for the feedback everyone. We pushed a sale price out at $89 and dropped shipping to a flat $25. Hope this helps for those looking for barrels. Let me say the profit on these barrels for us is very minimal after freight from the distillery, shipping/packing supplies, etc.

http://www.homebrewing.com/equipment/whiskey-barrel.php

Sorry to bust your B***s. I really didn't mean to imply that you were marking them up too much. If I was in the market for another and didn't have access to 15 or 20 other folks that wanted some at the same time I think your price is pretty good. They are great barrels, I did not get the blue corn, I got the rumble but it is great and others in my club got the blue corn and made some very tasty beers with them.

4140
All Grain Brewing / Re: step mashing or single infusion
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:42:10 AM »
I would do a single infusion. mash pretty low (~150-153 tops) for 90 minutes and it'll be fine. Pilsner malt, unless you specifically are using an undermodified product, is plenty modified and does not really need any non-sach rests. And I find that an higher temp alpha rest when you are after high fermentability doesn't really help.

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