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Messages - morticaixavier

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4186
Classifieds / Re: 5 Gallon Whiskey Soaked Barrels now available!
« on: December 04, 2012, 09:32:14 AM »
dang, quite the mark up from the $50 balcones charges huh?

I guess if you only need one though... does that include shipping?

4187
Ingredients / Re: Dry Hopping research - Interesting
« on: December 04, 2012, 09:27:52 AM »
Insight in how to get rid of that unpleasant onion/foot aroma with certain hops!

Quote
[...]it had been shown that adding granular copper dramatically reduced the presence of currant-like and onion aromas in beer[...]

4188
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Well...I drank my first homebrew
« on: December 04, 2012, 08:44:08 AM »
1.010 is not to low for a lightish ale.

Ahh, yup, my brain put another Zero in there.

Does anyone have any idea how much oxidation can play a role based on headspace? I know I want to limit headspace in a secondary, but If it's not mixing, how much headspace is too much?

I.d skip secondary all together unless you have a good reason to do it (adding fruit, possibly dry hopping if you want to use the yeast again, REALLY long bulk aging like months and months at room temp) The smaller the beer the less ideal a secondary is really. A nice light ale is going to be completely ruined by a little oxidation while a big barley wine can actually improve with a little oxidation. That being said I think it's about surface area. so fill your carboy up to the neck and there is less beer/air contact so less oxidation.

4189
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First Batch
« on: December 04, 2012, 08:40:56 AM »
Perfect, this seems to be simple and efficient.

Euge brings up a point I've often thought about but never done anything about. When trying to chill my wort, I usually stir, but in the process, it feels like I am subjecting myself to HSA and increasing the haze of my beer down the road. Does everyone stir their wort post-boil? Does no-one stir their wort post-boil? Does the cold break just fall out of solution once I get it in the fermenter?

I have not had a problem with HSA. I stir every time. It's no different than using an IC with whirlpool return. don't spash too much but I really don't think it's an issue. I get brilliantly clear beers using only irish moss and time.

After I get it down as low as I am going to with the IC I pull the chiller and gt the wort moving as a mass then let it settle and much of the cold break drops to the bottom of the kettle where I can leave it behind by slowly opening the valve into the fermenter.

4190
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging without a fridge
« on: December 03, 2012, 11:12:32 PM »
It is wintertime. In most parts of the country you can serve most beer at ambient temp nicely. When I first started kegging it was good enough to keep the kegs in the back room away from any heat and it was not overly warm or foamy. It was generally in the 50s or 60s in my backroom.

Hehe, you should try that in Florida! I'm still wearing shorts.

gotcha. well you could also try a swamp cooler but it's probably pretty humid down there too.

4191
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging without a fridge
« on: December 03, 2012, 10:28:44 PM »
It is wintertime. In most parts of the country you can serve most beer at ambient temp nicely. When I first started kegging it was good enough to keep the kegs in the back room away from any heat and it was not overly warm or foamy. It was generally in the 50s or 60s in my backroom.

4192
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Sour beer
« on: December 03, 2012, 02:35:13 PM »
Eh - I'd sterilize the mouth of the bottle even if I was only pouring once. The cages are not sanitized, and the outside of the mouth is open to the elements.

I like to wipe down the mouth really well with alcohol, dry, and then flame. If you have any stickiness or a small part of cork left over, it can burn, stink, and make the beer taste like burnt plastic.

(I've done this...)

cool thanks! The bottle shop in my town has a really nice selection of sour, wild, and lambic beers and I think it would be cool to do some bottle dreg projects.

4193
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Sour beer
« on: December 03, 2012, 02:20:00 PM »
Making a little starter (or stepping up) just ensures success in culturing bottle dregs.

If its a rare beer and you've only got one shot at it, its worth making a starter.

If you drink the beer a lot and normally have dregs to pitch, don't worry about it.

I add a few ounces of starter wort to freshly-emptied bottles. Once it starts smelling nice or forms a good pellicle, I'll wait another week or two and top up with another few ounces.

Keep it clean - the wild yeast in bottle dregs are normally weak and slow to start, so its fairly easy for contaminants to take hold if you're not careful.

In your experience how clean is clean enough? If I pour the beer in one go and then add the wort and slap an airlock or sanitized foil over the top is that clean enough or should get the rubbing alcahol out and flame the top before opening and after pouring?

4194
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling from the keg
« on: December 03, 2012, 12:44:43 PM »
Thanks Denny, That's actually the info I was after but I get verbose sometimes. It's like I just can't stop expounding on my point. You know when you have thoroughly explained what you are trying tos ay but you just seem to keep adding more and more details and/or tangents? It's kind of like when you are talking to someone and you really want them to understand and even though they are nodding their heads as if they already do understand you feel the need to keep explaining and adding more details.  :o
Since you live near a shop, why not just take one of your bottles with you and check for fit?  Or since they will likely sell bottles too, use one of theirs.  Are you buying online?  I trust Denny's numbers, but it's good to make sure it fits the way you want it to.

10-04

4195
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Well...I drank my first homebrew
« on: December 03, 2012, 12:44:17 PM »
Id it was LME, it's possible the extract was already oxidized and it didn't happen during the process.

This...

Or
[...]Racked it into the secondary, trying to avoid splashing and sealed it up.  Sat in the secondary for 2 weeks and clarity greatly improved.

[...]

this

could well account for the stale taste.

4196
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling from the keg
« on: December 03, 2012, 12:39:55 PM »
I am interested to hear what folks have to say, but when I use the cobra tap, I raise the tap/bottle/hose combo higher up in the air (I actually stand on a chair) for a few more feet of rise...this seems (to me, anyway) to reduce foaming/co2 loss (along with cold bottles).
All you are doing is increasing the head pressure and reducing the flow rate.  You could get similar results by using a longer line or by venting the keg and bottling with low psi.  When I bottle (rarely) i vent the keg and then turn the gas on to get a very slow flow.

This is what I do as well, I vent the keg and bottle at the lowest pressure that will let beer flow, usually somewhere around 3-4 PSI according to the regulator on the tank.

IIRC, it's either a #2 or 2 1/2.  I think 2.

Thanks Denny, That's actually the info I was after but I get verbose sometimes. It's like I just can't stop expounding on my point. You know when you have thoroughly explained what you are trying tos ay but you just seem to keep adding more and more details and/or tangents? It's kind of like when you are talking to someone and you really want them to understand and even though they are nodding their heads as if they already do understand you feel the need to keep explaining and adding more details.  :o

4197
Kegging and Bottling / bottling from the keg
« on: December 03, 2012, 11:27:30 AM »
Hey all,

I am fairly happy with my bottling from the keg process. It seems like the carbonation level is okay and for the most part I don't usually get any oxidation but I think I can do better. I have gotten notes on some bottles that have some oxidation problems or carb level problems which says to be I am being inconsistant.

I am probably not going to buy a beer gun or CPF but in the best Cheap-N-Easy style inspired by Denny I can probably see my way to buy a rubber stopper that fits in my bottles. But what size is that?

Currently I stick a bottling wand or piece of tubing on the end of the cobra tap and fill the bottles from the bottom, lifting the tube at the end to make sure I get a complete fill and cap on foam.

It is possible that it's not an issue with the bottling at all but that the capper sometimes crimps the caps with little inconsistancies like one crimp sticking out a little further than the rest. (cheapo italian red handled capper by the way)

I was considering putting a tiny bit of sugar syrup in each bottle and doing a hybrid force/natural carb like Sierra Nevada does as well. Thoughts?

anyway, any cheap and easy bottling advice welcome.

4198
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Well...I drank my first homebrew
« on: December 03, 2012, 11:19:56 AM »
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

My OG was 1044 which was spot on for my kit.

I have to figure out the oxidation situation.  I don't want to ruin batches due to this problem. 

I am hoping some more time to carb will help.  It has been carbing for 2 weeks at room temp (65 degrees). 

Cheers to progress on the next batch!  I'm thinking of an IPA.

give us a rundown on your process and we can maybe pinpoint any oxidation points. If you are doing extract batches the OG should pretty much always be spot on with what the kit says.

How much sugar did you use to prime? did you make sure it was well mixed with the beer before bottling? if so, how did you ensure mixing? That's a tricky moment because you want the sugar thouroghly mixed in to avoid variable carbonation levels in the bottles but you also want to be very gentle with the beer to avoid oxidiation.

4199
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First Batch
« on: December 03, 2012, 11:17:07 AM »

You'll pay more at HD than necessary, though I'd price there. Here's a better example: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-horsepower-submersible-utility-pump-68422.html


Sorry to bump a dead post, but do you really need this much pump for this? I'll be setting this up soon as chilling my wort is one of the longest and most wasteful parts of brew day for me, but I was hoping to get away with a tiny aquarium pump (closer to 10 dollars) We do this with the rotovap in my lab, and a relatively low flow of water is all that is necessary. In fact, I thought I read somewhere that the slower your IC flow, the greater your cooling efficiency. Thoughts?

are you after more water efficiency or more time efficiency? it's a trade off. The way I look at it though I am not sure how much trade off it really is. When I have my water going full blast, as long as I keep stirring the wort the whole time the outlet water is more or less the same temp as the wort which means that I could not be chilling any more efficiently by going slower. I am putting as much energy as possible into that water on it's way through the coil and giving each unit of water more time with the wort will not change that.

For what it's worth, with tap water I use ~15-21 gallons of water to chill 6 gallons of wort from a boil to ~80*f and do it in about 15 minutes. Then I let the fridge take it the rest of the way. I am thinking about getting a little sump pump and trying the ice water recirc once I get to 80* to see if I can get to lager pitching temps. although it is also temping to try Euge's method of frozen water bottles first. seems far more efficient.

4200
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Well...I drank my first homebrew
« on: December 03, 2012, 11:11:55 AM »
congrats! enjoy it and get started on that next batch.

1.010 is not to low for a lightish ale.

+1 on oxidation if it tastes/smells like slightly stale beer.

Give it a little more time at room temp to carb up the rest of the way, this should take care of the slightly sweet, the lack of sediment and possibly the watery impression as proper carbonation makes a huge difference in the perception and mouthfeel of a small beer.

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