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Messages - morticaixavier

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Events / Re: NHC Direct links email
« on: February 26, 2013, 11:21:34 AM »
Thanks Janis,

My email must be being slow. I will keep my eye out for it.


still no go for me.

My membership expires at the end of February, keep meaning to renew. Could this be the problem? your not filtering out NEARLY expired folks are you?

Events / Re: NHC Direct links email
« on: February 26, 2013, 11:20:13 AM »
Thanks Janis,

My email must be being slow. I will keep my eye out for it.

Events / NHC Direct links email
« on: February 26, 2013, 11:05:42 AM »

I got an email last week about the NHC entry opening today (Woo Hoo) and it mentioned that we should get an email today with the list of direct links to the various sites. I havn't recieved that yet has anyone else?

Any idea from the AHA crew when we might expect that? is it going to be a 'last minute before opening thing'?

Ingredients / Re: Grain for just color
« on: February 26, 2013, 10:51:22 AM »
I am working on a Nut Brown ale recipe, and would like to adjust the color a little darker/more brown without changing the flavor or gravity.  I seem to recall a grain that is made for this purpose, but my grain cheat sheet doesn't list it.

What do you suggest?

tiny bit of caraffa? added late in the mash or cold steeped with the 'tea' added to the boil? or that caraffa extract stuff cinemar (?)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Absolute NEWB with a question
« on: February 26, 2013, 08:52:12 AM »
I remember seeing a video with Dr. Charlie Bamforth brewing a batch with filthy water from a duckpond. Everyone loved the beer and it showed to prove how the process of beer making made the water safe to drink historically.

that was from the little 'river' that flows through the arboretum. It is nasty particularly in summer.

I might do my first lager! maybe. maybe next weekend instead. At least I want to get things lined up and make sure I can get the quart of yeast from the local brewery. and decide on a recipe. There is also the 10 gallons of Ordinary Bitter I have to do something with. Gotta drink more porter and get that keg empty.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Woes
« on: February 25, 2013, 12:12:54 PM »
Yes, when I ferment in a bucket I skim the kraeusen. when I ferment in a carboy I let it blow off. Others may have different opinions on this, though.

Is that what you do on all beers?  Do you harvest this stuff, or just dump it down the drain?  I was thinking about that meringue-like kraeusen posted earlier (; would you skim all that off?

I think he is more refering to the gunky brown stuff on top which is made up mostly of harsh bitter hop compounds, trub and gross dead yeast. If you were top cropping you would still skim off and discard that portion, letting fresh clean krausen form again for harvest.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wlp001 for Scottish 60/ or 70/
« on: February 25, 2013, 09:53:55 AM »
I've only brewed one scottish 60/-. I used the edinbourough yeast and I was amazed at the subtle peaty/earthy/smokey character that yeast added. The rest of the recipe was 98% MO 2% roasted barley so there was some of that smoke from the RB but I think most of it came from the yeast.

So I would be hesitant to use a neutral yeast. I'm sure it would still be good though.

Ingredients / Re: Maris Otter
« on: February 25, 2013, 09:40:54 AM »
One of the 'grandparents" of Maris Otter was named Plumage Archer. How is that for another weird name?

Mort - there is also a low color MO that is used in the summer ales by some brewers. That one is not toasty, but you can taste a good malty flavor in the beers.

I love old cultivar names. Back when consumers knew the name of the fruit/veg/grain they were buying so it was good marketing to give your variety a catchy name!

Didn't know that about the low color MO. I don't generally use it because, being on the west coast it's just so energy inefficient to buy a product that travels 6000+ miles to my door when I can get something grown in the next county north (even if it is shipped to washington for malting and back). But the times I have I really liked the result. I used it 98% in a scottish 60/- and it was quite nice.

Ingredients / Re: Maris Otter
« on: February 25, 2013, 09:32:42 AM »
Marris Otter is a specific cultivar of two row malting barley owned by... I want to say Warminster Maltings in the UK. it's grown by a bunch of farmers. While standard '2 row' is any of several cultivars of 2 row barley grown all over the world. Marris Otter, Optic, Golden Promise. These are other 'named' varieties from the UK.

Some MO is floor malted which means that instead of being malted in a big temp/humidity controlled drum that constantly turns it and keeps the moisture and temp exactly right, it is malted the 'old fashioned' way, spread out on a floor and moved by hand (or mechanized rake) as it moved through the malting process.

It is also often kilned to a slightly higher color than 'normal 2-row' and is reputed to have a fuller maltier flavour.

The name I can't speak to. I imagine the breeder that came up with the cultivar had a reason for it.

I was told that my first O-fest was my best beer ever.

well okay euge,

are you gonna toss that out there and then NOT cough up the recipe?

Including me!

I am getting ready for my first lager (voice trembles slightly with excitement) and I am thinking that an marzen/fest might be just the thing.

I have a little over half a sack of munich and some pilsner and two row on hand. a little hallertaur, some saphir, then nelson, goldings, challenger, pacific gem.

I can get more hops if need be.

The yeast is what ever the local brewery uses as I will be grabbing a quart of that (they brew a decent o-fest themselves)

I was looking at the recipe wiki and as always I am drawn to the simplest recipe up there which is the rocktoberfest from VPB which is 100% munich and then several varieties of hallertauer.

Any thoughts?

Good reasons to add some crystal or caramunich or melanoiden?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Fermentis yeast
« on: February 22, 2013, 04:56:02 PM »
This is what Williams Brewing said about it:

CBC-1 CASK CONDITIONING  This yeast is advertised as being for use after beer has fermented in the bottle or cask as a yeast that settles out quickly, and leaves minimal flavors. To be fair, we used this to ferment a light ale with a starting gravity of 1.055. It fermented to 1.025, and the beer produced was a bit fruity, very clear, and we thought slightly off in flavor.

Not too promising.

actually might be exactly what the yeast should do, minus the slight off flavour.

They mention on the site that it is intended to eat as little maltotriose as possible as to not thin out an already finished beer so the low attenuation might be just what they were expecting.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: recarbonating
« on: February 22, 2013, 03:09:50 PM »
That temperature on carb calculators can be confusing. You always want to put the HIGHEST temp the beer was at AFTER active fermetation subsides. That is the temp that will determine how much residual disolved CO2 is present.

That being said, you can open, add carb tabs or boiled cooled sugar syrup (in known dosage) to each bottle and recap. I would ignore the first sugar addition at this point and recalculate using 66 as your temp.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from the keg...
« on: February 22, 2013, 12:56:01 PM »
If you stick the cane part of your bottlng want (sans little spring tip) and crank your serving pressure way down (<4) that can work but for about $0.60 more you can get a stopper (#4?) that will fit over the cane and into the neck of the bottle. this will create a pseudo counter pressure rig that works fairly well at minimizing the foaming in the bottle.

Over carb your beer in the keg just a bit because no matter what you are going to lose some in the process.

Keep the bottles, beer and all tubing as cold as you can without actually freezing them.

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