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Messages - morticaixavier

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4186
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cleaning/sanitizing a Whiskey Barrel
« on: February 18, 2013, 03:11:50 PM »
You can rinse with very hot non-chlorinated water and then hit it with some whisky to replace the lost whisky character then add more beer. that's what I did.

4187
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Hop adjustment for a partial boil.
« on: February 15, 2013, 04:56:39 PM »
You've more or less got it.

The IBU's should be ~twice what you want in the finished beer. as the gravity is a little less than twice the intended finish gravity. I am not sure about specific numbers on utilization reduction do to partial boil though.

4188
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm going to Cellar The Abyss 2012???
« on: February 15, 2013, 04:54:07 PM »
I've got a 2011 in the closet somewhere I think. at least I think it's a 2011.
The year I got that one there was a vertical at the club christmas party and one year, I wanna say the 2010 had an infection and it was actually quite good. nice sour note with some funk in the background. major gusher though.

4189
Ingredients / Re: Natural Spring water vs Distilled water
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:04:49 PM »
I use a 50/50 blend, mostly because spring water is cheaper.

Does your tap water taste good? If so, just run it through a Brita filter. It gets to be a PITA to buy 10 gallons of water before every brew!

My tap water tastes pretty bad.  I can usually find the natural spring water for $1/gal and the distilled for about that or $1.50/gal.  I usually only buy 6-7 gal per batch, but yeah, it just adds onto the already not so cheap brewing expense.

Try to find a water machine in a supermarket or something. I buy 15 gallons of water in 3 5 gallon jugs for each 10 gallon batch and it's about $0.34 per gallon so really I am adding less than the cost of a yeast package to my brew and I can know more or less exactly what my water profile is because anything in there was added by me. Cheaper than a pH meter and a TDS meter for a quite a while anyway.

4190
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Long fermentation - is it time to bottle?
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:02:10 PM »
That makes sense about the temperature. It's at a pretty constant 68°F in there though... and with the fermentation slowing down I would think the temp would drop slightly, if anything. Are there other things that would cause the CO² to come out of suspension?

I appreciate the help though guys, thank you. I guess the only way to be sure is to get the ol' beer thief out and take a reading. I was just hoping to avoid that. Call me greedy but I wanted as much finished beer to bottle as possible :-P I think I'll adjust my recipes to allow for a 6 gallon batch and then I don't have to worry about those losses ;-)

Thanks again, ya'all!

co2 will just slowly come out of suspension until it is in equlibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.

4191
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 1st Yeast Harvest
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:10:06 PM »
I would think the bigger concern with yeast from a pliny clone is that is a pretty big beer and the yeast are going to be a little stressed. Not really at their best. You might want to use a small amount of that yeast and make a start with it to increase the percentage of younger healthier cells in your population. (I could be wrong on this but some one will correct me if so)

There are differing opinions on how many times you can harvest. I know I have seen some brewers say the will to 10+ generations. others don't like to go more than 3 or so.

The yeast will evolve over generations and there for the flavour may change over time. this is one of the reasons for putting a limit on the number of generations you go if you are trying to maintain a known yeast character.

I would think it would be better to make a big starter, step it up a couple times even and then take part of that each time you brew rather than pitching the whole thing and re-havesting. This should reduce the drift in charcter over time because the dormant yeast in the fridge won't change as quickly as the yeast actively fermenting and being harvested and washed etc. and facing all the selective presures involved with that.

4192
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Long fermentation - is it time to bottle?
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:01:29 PM »
And don't worry to much about o2. I mean don't splash around in there but taking a gravity sample of even pulling a hop bag out is not going to oxidize your beer.

4193
With my (failed) doppelbock, it's similar to a chalky texture.  So I suppose it could be astringency.

yeah, chalky says astringency to me.

4194
I have noticed a grainy character to several beers I have brewed. Mostly with pils malt but I suspect it's just a green beer thing. After a couple days in the keg chilling out and settling most of the grainy flavour is gone.

This is assuming what you are tasting is like chewing on a piece of malt. If you are talking about grainy astringency that dries out your tongue that's when to look at your sparge temp and/or pH.

4195
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Conference pointers
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:53:07 AM »
HA

4196
Beer Recipes / Re: Just Kinda Happened
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:48:09 AM »
Denny's the king of all batch sparging...that's how.  ;)

He uses hippie power during the mash man.  :D :P :)

It's this special little dance I do....but it only works when the moon is in Feces.....

Why would the moon be in feces? that's kinda gross!

Pices maybe?

4197
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My water profile
« on: February 13, 2013, 09:28:57 AM »
i understand how strange it is, but absolutely no softener, filter or anything. my well is very deep, about 375ft. my well system comprises a submersible well pump and pressure tank inside the house..thats it.

so live about 30 miles southeast of cleveland in suburbs - chagrin falls ohio 44023.

so when you use bottled water, whats the PH of it (does it matter?)- or do you not make any adjustments for PH when using bottled water. my grist for this pilsner is calculated at about 1pt of acidity if recall correctly.

sorry if this sounds stupid, but is RO water the same as bottled water? 

using Ro water, im still adding 3.3gr of gypsum, 2.6gr cal chloride, and 1.3ml lactic acid - result is 5.3PH, and brings everything in target range for this beer profile (according to bru'n water yellow balanced)

Without knowing your grist details that sound about right to me. I build my water from RO and for 5 gallons ~3 g gypsum, ~3 g calcium chloride and enough lactic acid/pickling lime to bring the pH in line is all I add.

4198
All Things Food / Re: My new Love affair with Pho
« on: February 13, 2013, 06:59:04 AM »
There is a restaurant in Davis called the Pho King.  ;D

4199
Equipment and Software / Re: Aeration Systems
« on: February 11, 2013, 11:32:26 AM »

As for the water, do you have an analysis of your tap water or do you plan to build it from RO?  And have you downloaded Bru'n Water? 

I recently got my water analysis back from Ward Labs. I have not yet downloaded Bru'n Water. I usually just add a Campden Tablet and a teaspoon of Gypsum simply because my Calcium is a bit low.

Where can get Bru'n Water?

Here ya' go

https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/

4200
Equipment and Software / Re: Aeration Systems
« on: February 11, 2013, 10:43:58 AM »
I've been very concerned about my level of pre-fermentation aeration. I feel it is lacking.

Does anybody know of any good / affordable aeration systems or aquarium pumps or something else.

Thanks!

Why concerned?

I use either a mixstir attachement for a cordless drill (like a paint stirrer, in fact you can USE a paint stirrer) or lateley I have been sanitizing my balloon whisk and just going at it.

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