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Messages - morticaixavier

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4291
I'm considering leaving the drain plug open on my new chest freezer/fermentation chamber for just that reason.

OH SURE! turn a keezer of death into a brewery of death  ;D probably not.

4292
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stir-Plate 3000 yeast stirrer review
« on: January 23, 2013, 01:21:35 PM »
Or you could use .5 gallon ball jars and step up your starters

4293
Equipment and Software / Re: Warming Fermenters a Few Degrees
« on: January 23, 2013, 12:53:05 PM »
I foolishly set up for a lager batch this weekend without thinking about the fact that I already have a couple ales in the fermentation chamber. My garage is holding about 2°C, so I don't need to warm it too much above ambient, and I only need to worry about it for maybe 4-7 days before it can go in the chamber with the ales.

Once fermentation kicks in it should help with keeping the temps up, but I'm wondering if anyone has a proven solution for warming a fermenter without temperature control. Warm water bath? Chemical hot packs? Move it in and out of the fermentation chamber a hundred times a day?

water bath with fish tank heater? haven't tried it but it might work.

4294
Wood/Casks / Re: How full should a barrel be?
« on: January 23, 2013, 12:52:15 PM »
FYI that cherrilicious beer cask was topped off one time with a 6 pack of Modelo Negra

HA!

4295
Ingredients / Re: Prefered base malt for brewing?
« on: January 23, 2013, 09:20:18 AM »
More than anything else I use GW california select and/or munich (weyermann when I am feeling wealthy and not careing overly about environmental impact and gambrinus otherwise) I'll grab a sack of pils (again, weyermann for the richie rich days and gambrinus or GW others)

4296
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Looking for a Good Online Supply Store
« on: January 23, 2013, 09:12:18 AM »
If yo have interest in organic ingredients,
 7 bridges out of santa cruz is great, really the only place on line with a large selection of organic ingredients, although I think rebel brewer has some and maybe even morebeer and northern brewer at this point.

4297
Wood/Casks / Re: When do you RETIRE a barrel or solera?
« on: January 23, 2013, 08:42:33 AM »
If your really done with it why not drain it, and make a planter.  it'd be a shame though. that was truely cherrylicious goodness

4298
Wood/Casks / Re: How full should a barrel be?
« on: January 23, 2013, 08:40:50 AM »
Jonathan that is a good method.  I prefer to fill with BEEER tho....

well sure, if you've got some around.

4299
Zymurgy / Re: Printing a page
« on: January 19, 2013, 10:25:44 PM »
In windows that would be a... print screen button  ;D

or alt+printscreen if you want to paste it into a document.

4300
Wood/Casks / Re: How full should a barrel be?
« on: January 18, 2013, 02:11:17 PM »
you got it, more oxidation if there is headspace. topping up with the irish red was a good call. small barrells are already going to mico-oxidize quicker than big barrels because the o2 is coming through the wood and surface to volume ratio and all that.

I got a bunch of those little glass button things that go in planters and boiled the beejeezus out of them to sterilized ( I think I even used a presure cooker) then added to the barrel till it was right up to the bung.

that's right, I filled it to the bung with glass buttons  ;D

4301
Equipment and Software / Re: BrewSmith fly sparge question
« on: January 17, 2013, 04:12:37 PM »
I don't know that fly sparging will necesarily increase your efficiency. I generally get ~75% batch sparging and I don't even usually 'sparge' perse. I mash pretty thin ~2 qt/lb and step the temp up to mash out range before running off and still git 73%

I would look in other areas (Specifically mash pH) before assuming it's the batch sparge

4302
The Pub / Re: Pint Glass Pricing Poll
« on: January 17, 2013, 03:17:00 PM »
I voted 8 bucks assuming it came filled with beer. I might pay 8 regardless but if I was at a tasting room and could buy the glass filled with beer for 8 bucks I would snap it up.

4303
All Grain Brewing / Re: First all-grain, help me make a SMaSH APA recipe?
« on: January 17, 2013, 02:25:31 PM »
Honestly, I'm really hoping I don't have to obsess about water too much, but it might not be possible given the fact that I like IPAs and APAs and live where I do. Diluting with RO and going with it seems a lot more my speed, and requires less hauling than buying all RO and adding back minerals.

Then again, in my experience, locally made stouts and porters tend to taste great, while the paler hoppy stuff comes across as harsh.

It's not that much work, you can keep it pretty simple, Three 'powders' and one acid.

I like Gypsum (calcium sulfate), Calcium Chloride, Pickling lime, and lactic acid (because that is what they had when I was as the LHBS, others prefer other acids)

Download bru'n water and set it up for 100% dillution with RO and save it that way.

I generally add a few grams of calcium chloride and a few of calcium sulfate to the mash and pickling lime only with really dark beers like stouts and lactic acid only with really light beers like kolsch. You can adjust the ratio of sufate to choloride by adjusting the relative amounts of each while getting all the calcium you will need. I do not own a pH meter and have not seen any issues just relying on martin's calculations from 'standard' RO numbers. If I was adding the complication of adding any % of the local water it would be to much for me.

4304
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: travelling with lots of beer
« on: January 17, 2013, 08:50:17 AM »
I've wrapped up bottles in my checked bag, but there is a limit to that. For a full case I'd consider this.
http://www.mrboxonline.com/bottle-styrofoam-beer-shipper-p-7582.html?osCsid=2a869669b8f3d4ed9e9ac62be274c954

ooooh that is awesome! Thanks for that link.

4305
Equipment and Software / Re: propane vs natural gas
« on: January 17, 2013, 08:48:05 AM »
Take one jet down to the gas appliance store and have them give you a definative answer.
Dur.  Great idea :)

■100,000 BTU/hr furnace will use about 97 cubic feet of natural gas (100,000 ÷ 1,030 = 97.1) in one hour
■100,000 BTU/hr furnace will use about 40 cubic feet of propane (100,000 ÷ 2516 = 39.7) in one hour

This might be what you are looking for.

http://www.propane101.com/propanevsnaturalgas.htm
I meant to thank you for this advice - I looked it up and it has a bunch of info, which led me to a local page with good info on local price comparisons.  Anyway, belated thanks. :)
http://www.pse.com/savingsandenergycenter/ForHomes/Pages/Natural-Gas-Cost-Comparisons.aspx

No problem. glad to help.

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