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Messages - morticaixavier

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: How fast do you carbonate?
« on: September 02, 2012, 01:26:49 PM »
have not made a cider, but I don't think most people wait a couple years to drink. post a recipe and we can see what's up with that.

My regime usually goes something like, 1-3 weeks primary, crash cool for a couple days, into the keg and force carb with gentle shaking then start drinking the next day. Only some beers need an ageing period and some others really don't want that (wheat beers, low gravity session ales) as they want to be fresh when consumed.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 8/24 Edition
« on: September 01, 2012, 07:46:43 PM »
boiling 10 gallons of kolsch now and getting ready to transfer an old ale to 'secondary' for a couple more months.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: White House Brew Recipe
« on: September 01, 2012, 07:45:39 PM »
I look forward to adapting this recipe for the ingredients I have on hand.  Although, I may have to order the honey malt to accentuate the actual honey in the beer.

 I wonder what type of honey the Whitehouse has.  Is it Tupelo, Orange Blossom, or Sam's Best?  :)  I am also wondering if I buy honey at the store do they label it as fluid ounces or by weight?  Does anyone know what 16 oz of fluid honey weighs?

By the way, "Ale to the Chief" is just darn cleaver regardless of partisan leanings.

honey is usually sold by weight but 16 floz weighs ~1.5 lbs.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Style Guidelines and Judging
« on: September 01, 2012, 03:10:19 PM »
this is a good discussion as I work towards the BJCP exam.  I think that the range of gravity is useful from a brewer's perspective when forumulating recipes, or deciding where to place a beer that is in the ballpark of two (or more) different style catagories.

IMO, the extra information is never a bad thing for reference, unless that information is wrong.

Well, I'm in the info biz, and information IS wrong if it's not applicable or consistently used. This is the zymurgical version of "do as I say, not as I do." It's fine to say most beers in X style have the Y-Z gravity range. But for competitive purposes, it's wrong to describe the style as a guideline when (to borrow nateo's point) what tends to win is the teased-hair, blue-eyeshadow, big-shoulder-pad version of the style. I don't mind that competitions give an advantage to over-the-top beers. Innovation rarely comes from the middle of the road. I mind the reality distortion field that says a winning beer is X style when it isn't.

There's an interesting study in here for someone on the average gravity range for winning beers... but anecdotally I believe it to be true. And I tend to brew on the high end of the styles I like, so it's not as if I'm... so to speak... anti-gravity.

HA! ;D have I mentioned that I think librarians rock? well I do.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Buffalo Wild Wings and home brew
« on: August 31, 2012, 03:12:21 PM »
I thought it was hilarious.


I guess I'm old and jaded from spending too many years in the advertising biz....I find about 99% of all commercials stupid and insulting.

to paraphrase Tom Robbins 'The more advertising I see the less I want to buy'

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Style Guidelines and Judging
« on: August 31, 2012, 01:13:05 PM »
I love it when I get score sheets back that has like two to three words in each comment section, like "Dark and roasty"    These judges should not get credit for judging, but when I look at where these brews wer in the flight they usually are towards the end of like a fifteen beer flight.
I think some judges are clueless about how to "fix" a beer too.  There is a great old book out there called "Evaluating Beer" published by Brewers Publication in 1993.  A friend let me borrow this book and I never gave it back.  It is a great book that I take to every comp.  Has great concise info that is easy to find and I think every BJCP judge should have to read this book.   Some of the info is dated but all the basic stuff is great.  There are sections by Papazian, David Eby, Ron Siebel and George Fix.  If you can find this book I highly recommend buying it.

A friend let me borrow this book and I never gave it back. 

Are you still friends? If so, why was he not mad at you about that?

Hey Yeah!!! I was wondering where that book got to!!!!

(just kidding, as far as I know I have never met nor been in the same city as SWI)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I once had too Many Beers.
« on: August 31, 2012, 11:29:13 AM »

All Grain Brewing / Re: composting spent grain
« on: August 31, 2012, 09:56:21 AM »
go online and order yourself some black soldier fly larvae. They will eat that grain up in no time. It's fairly gross to watch as masses of half inch long black magots roll around in the spent grain but they don't smell bad, eat alot quickly and then leave. the flies themselves don't eat so they aren't much of a nuisance once they metamorphose and can actually help reduce the populations of other flies through competition. If you ahve chickens they will eat most of the larvae anyway.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter overflow
« on: August 31, 2012, 09:49:15 AM »
Yeah i do need a bigger boat. I wonder why they only sell 2L erlenmyers at my lhbs.

I decided that a flask as large as I needed was too expensive and I didn't really need a flask anyway since I don't like to boil in them.  I use a gal. glass apple juice jug.  Plenty big enough and nearly free.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Another water question - too much CaCO3?
« on: August 30, 2012, 11:04:54 PM »
lime can be found at any hardware store or grocery/homegoods type store. I would guess in  burlingotn, City market  might have it and ace hardware might, kiss the cook (are they still around) might have it to. It's in the canning aisle, and it costs about 2 bucks for a life time supply

But the problem is that it foams a lot and that foam makes adding yeast suspended in 1-2 l wort difficult.


Any suggestions for pitching dry yeast when there is an excess of foam after shooting some O2 in and shaking it?  I had about 2 inches of foam when I was done.

I typically use liquid yeast, and I figure that would sink through the foam and into the wort because of weight, but I had some dry sitting around and figured I would use it.  It just ended up sitting on top of the foam and once the foam subsided, the yeast turned into what looked like a gooey yeast cake on the surface.  This was in the carboy so I really didn't have much that I could do to break it up properly.

try rehydrating the dry yeast in warm water next time. then it's just like liquid only more so. but it will probably be fine, if it is in contact with liquid it will rehydrate it self eventually.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corn Sugar vs Table Sugar
« on: August 30, 2012, 02:05:06 PM »
go for it. for all intents and purposes there is no difference at all. There is a table somewhere out there, maybe morebeer website? that lists lots of different kinds of sugar and the exact amount to use for carbing but I always just follow the corn sugar weight guidelines and have not had problems.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Another water question - too much CaCO3?
« on: August 30, 2012, 02:03:43 PM »
Thanks guys, looks like the verdict is in - CaCO3 is pointless. It definitely doesn't dissolve in water and thus my question. So why and/or how should I increase my carbonate for darker beers? I'm going off of Palmer and the most recent BYO which had dark beers in the 150-250ppm carbonate category. Is this just pointless?

you CAN disolve CaCO3 but you have to do it in an acidic environment. So you add chalk to water, put it in an empty keg and put gas to it. shake the beeegeeezuss out of it. I don't know for how long. I guess till the chalk disolves.  :o

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Some Basic Kegging/Force Carbing Questions
« on: August 30, 2012, 07:39:21 AM »
My first foray into kegging with force carbonation used a fast carb shaking method.  Didn't come out so great- it involved beer in my regulator and on the ceiling of the garage.  I've since learned to be patient and ride out 12 psi for 5 or 6 days (doesn't help you much in your particular situation).  My only advice is definitely let it rest for at least a few hours if you go the fast force carb route.  Otherwise it's all foam.

you shook it way to hard! I like to pick the keg up, while it's hooked to the gas and hole it by the top handle in one hand and the bottom rubber 'foot' in the other and just gently rock back and forth, you will hear the gas going in and the beer sloshing gently back and forth. about 5-10 minutes and you are good to go. it gets better after a few days but you can drink it more or less immedietly

Equipment and Software / Re: Quick question about Bru'n water
« on: August 29, 2012, 01:23:10 PM »
Cool, thanks!

I am glad I asked.

Although now it will no longer be a 666 beer. oh well.

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