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Messages - morticaixavier

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4351
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First Christmas Beer - Got questions!
« on: September 12, 2012, 07:44:34 AM »
Also,

doesn't flaked wheat need to be mashed to bring anything but starch to the game? been a while since I did extract and I can't remember for sure.

but +1 on the less crystal and the light or extra light extract suggestions. I once did an extract RIS and added a healthy dose of crystal malt because I wanted a big chewy beer. It never got below 1.030 and was pretty much undrinkably sweet.

4352
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: washing WLP002
« on: September 11, 2012, 10:23:23 AM »
Even in the presence of maltose and other sugars, this yeast seems to flocculate. You can give it a try and report back, but when I tried to de-flocculate this yeast with extract to count it under the microscope I did not have much success.

Kai

yeah it's chunky alright. Sounds like you have tried what I was intending so perhaps I will not waste my time and energy. Out of curiosity though, and this is probably a question for Tom S., is there a way to counteract the substances on the yeast surface that cause floculation? enzymatic? environmental?

Are you worried that much about the trub?  How much of an effect do you think it will have?  I reuse saved slurry all the time unless I've dry hopped.

Dave

Not really worried about the trub to much, just thought I would give it a try. I have also just pitched reused yeast without problems in the past. I will probably make a starter out of a portion of the cake.

4353
Yeast and Fermentation / washing WLP002
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:15:55 AM »
So I have a couple quart jars of harvested yeast slurry from a batch of irish red sitting in the fridge. I was thinking of washing it as it has a lot of hop trub and gunk in there but this yeast does not want to de-floculate once settled. I am thinking that if, instead of distilled water I were to use some simple extract wort as a first step I could get all the healthy live cells back into solution and then let just the trub and dead cells settle, then after a day in the wort pour the liquid portion into a new jar and keep that as a starter. does this make sense? the plan is to use it in a big wheat wine.

4354
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: surprisingly low wort fermentability
« on: September 11, 2012, 07:43:27 AM »
I used beano once. it was the liquid kind. If I recall I added about 10-15 drops to 5 gallons of an imperial stout that would not go below 1.036 (extract batch) It worked and got down to 1.020 before i bottled because it seemed stable. about a month later the bottles started to break  :'(. the beano just keeps working slowly.

4355
Equipment and Software / Re: Keg Mash/Lauter Tun Insulation
« on: September 10, 2012, 02:51:18 PM »
If it's direct fired I have seen people use metal wool or rock wool (fiber glass) sheethed in metal flashing.

4356
All Things Food / Re: Lactic Acid and Ricotta
« on: September 10, 2012, 12:38:07 PM »
I've done that to make something like paneer. It turned out fine. I'm not sure I'd call it "better" than using lemon juice, but I think the flavor was less distinct. I just added a little bit at a time until the milk curdled nicely. You could dilute it in water to make that process easier to control.

good call, maybe I will dilute to ~6% and use the standard amount as if it was lemon juice.

4357
All Things Food / Lactic Acid and Ricotta
« on: September 08, 2012, 12:24:31 AM »
I was going to make some 'ricotta' from whole milk. I usually use lemon juice or white vinegar to sour it but I wondered if the 88% lactic acid I have for brewing might not be even better.

Any idea on how much? thoughts? warnings?

4358
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP670 - waiting for something funky
« on: September 07, 2012, 06:45:01 PM »
yeah, if you want to increase the brett character and shorten the time needed to pick up the brett you can add some sugar directly to the fermenter. That will speed it up nicely.

I'll account for this in the recipe formulation. Sounds like a good excuse to use some local honey or maple syrup. One supplier barrel-ages their syrup!

Where do you find barrel aged syrup?!?!?!?! Canadian Breakfast Stout comes to mind, AKA Founders!

They have it at williams sonoma. but 29.95 for 12.6 oz!! come on! good grade B dark amber syrup already has lovely wood notes. add a touch of bourbon and your good to go and you can usually get grade B for about 12-15 bucks a lb.

+1.  I've got friends who own a maple shack.  Funny that everyone wants light syrup which costs more when dark or amber costs less and tastes so much better. 
Want to try something awesome, they picked up a cotton candy machine and make cotton candy from pure maple syrup.  Fantastic.

oh yeah, I get maple cotton candy at the field days when I am back east.

4359
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NB Marris Otter Extract
« on: September 07, 2012, 03:14:57 PM »
Is this extract really all MO?

I know both the munich and rye extracts are still blends. still got some crystal in there etc.

4360
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Root beer and kegs
« on: September 07, 2012, 02:52:27 PM »
I have a keg 'dedicated' to plain (plane?) water. just so it doesn't taste like beer. I keep meaning to make up some soda syrup to mix in the glass. gotta get a good from scratch rootbeer recipe. and some sarsparilla root.

4361
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP670 - waiting for something funky
« on: September 07, 2012, 02:47:19 PM »
yeah, if you want to increase the brett character and shorten the time needed to pick up the brett you can add some sugar directly to the fermenter. That will speed it up nicely.

I'll account for this in the recipe formulation. Sounds like a good excuse to use some local honey or maple syrup. One supplier barrel-ages their syrup!

Where do you find barrel aged syrup?!?!?!?! Canadian Breakfast Stout comes to mind, AKA Founders!

They have it at williams sonoma. but 29.95 for 12.6 oz!! come on! good grade B dark amber syrup already has lovely wood notes. add a touch of bourbon and your good to go and you can usually get grade B for about 12-15 bucks a lb.

4362
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: homebrew turning black
« on: September 06, 2012, 11:43:52 AM »
any chance a LARGE amount of idophor got in the beer? could be a reaction between unconverted starch and iodine.

4363
Equipment and Software / Re: New Equipment - What to get?
« on: September 05, 2012, 08:30:51 AM »
If I had $500 to spend I would start with

a) more kegs
b) a bigger kettle (at least 15 gallons maybe a keggle)
c) gotta have a bigger mash tun if you are going to use that 15 gallon pot to make 10 gallon batches!
d) more kegs

Bigger kettle yes, but keggle's make bad kettles. Bigger batches might require bigger burners too.

Your mash tun is way oversized for fly sparging 5-gal batches.  I was pretty happy with my 40 qt mash tun for 10-gal batches except for making beers with 7+% alcohol.  I can't imagine why you would want a mash tun bigger than 52 quarts.

perhaps with fly sparging but batch spargeing I can fill my 72 qt to the brim doing a no sparge 10 gallon batch or a really big 5 gallon batch. in fact, I just did 10 gallons of 1.051 kolsch and i had to reserve about 1.5 gallons of my mash out water till I had run some off because it was to full.

This is the first I have heard that keggles are bad, why for?

4364
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How fast do you carbonate?
« on: September 05, 2012, 07:50:54 AM »
Just keeged a dry stout, a amber lager, and an Oktoberfest. The Oktoberfest and lager have been lagering 3 and 4 weeks respectivly. Now that it is kegged, do you FC now or wait till it's done conditioning (another 2 months at least)?

that's up to you. however, if the beer is carbed the temptation to 'sample' will be greater.

4365
Equipment and Software / Re: New Equipment - What to get?
« on: September 04, 2012, 03:37:15 PM »
If I had $500 to spend I would start with

a) more kegs
b) a bigger kettle (at least 15 gallons maybe a keggle)
c) gotta have a bigger mash tun if you are going to use that 15 gallon pot to make 10 gallon batches!
d) more kegs

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