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Messages - morticaixavier

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4396
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison Vert Dregs
« on: October 09, 2012, 01:55:36 PM »
My assumption is that rayot vert does have active brett in it.  I could be wrong.

From Green flash website

Quote
Bottle conditioning with fresh ale yeast and Brettanomyces finishes the beer, adding a delightful effervescence, dryness and continuously evolving character. Rayon Vert is Green Flash.

4397
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: October 09, 2012, 12:48:42 PM »
Was wondering if I have sours going and I sanitize my thrift after pulling a sample from a sour wit, is my bucket of starsan infected with bugs. I rinsed the thrift after pulling a sample

nope. If you star san gets infected it's not going to work anyway. It's designed to kill just those bugs afterall.

4398
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison Vert Dregs
« on: October 09, 2012, 12:41:58 PM »
I think he was planning on transfering to a carboy for the addition of the brett. then giving the empty keg back.

Oh... well that would be OK.

still, it there is something to Joe Sr.'s (wow, internet handles make for some interesting puncuation) point about his friend not learning and improving.

Doesn't mean you shouldn't do the brett experiment. Just maybe tell your friend about what's going on first.

4399
Beer Recipes / Re: Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Stout
« on: October 09, 2012, 12:37:20 PM »
I tend to think of nutmeg when I think of oatmeal raisin cookies. More so than ginger. Perhaps that would be good in tincture?

Let us know how it turns out! I'm not set up for all-grain yet, nor do I feel experienced enough, but the recipe sounds epic.

A touch of nutmeg does sound nice. I am hesitant as I used nutmeg in a mead once and went way over the top with it. but perhaps a few shavings in the tincture with the ceylon cinnamon.

4400
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison Vert Dregs
« on: October 09, 2012, 07:40:19 AM »
I think he was planning on transfering to a carboy for the addition of the brett. then giving the empty keg back.

4401
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: more aeration on day 2-3?
« on: October 09, 2012, 07:38:38 AM »
I mainly ask because on the last few big beers I have done i have gotten some slightly hot flavours. I kept the temp down fairly well with a fridge and controller. and they did age out.

You're going to age the barley wine, right?  So any hotness should mellow by drinking time.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with the re-aeration.  Like Denny, I really haven't had a problem with attenuation on big beers.

Unless you're hot to try a new technique and see how it works, I'd just pitch the yeast and let it go.

Yeah this one will age for about 5 months before it goes into a bottle or keg. I don't normally have any problem with attenuation either. Given that I am probably to lazy to drag out the mix stir again tonight anyway I am not going to worry about it.

4402
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: more aeration on day 2-3?
« on: October 08, 2012, 01:41:38 PM »
Well that's confusing to. Just checked Mr Malty and he says 1.8 packs even if they are a month old. He also recomends >300 billion cells but says that 1.8 packs will deliver that.

I must be missing something here.

ahh well. I guess I will RDWHAHB and pitch the two packs as planned. There is something wonky in my understanding of this whole thing.

4403
Ingredients / Re: flaked oats
« on: October 08, 2012, 12:21:36 PM »
Quick oats would be about the same.  If you use regular oat,meal, you'll need to cook it first.  Quick oats can go right in the mash.

 
Ehh???? Regular oats cook in like 3-4 minutes. I've always put them in the mash.

Not the "regular" oats I'm familiar with.  They take a good 30 min.  I'm talking about the steel cut oats (IIRC).  Quick oats are faster and instant oats are ready in a couple minutes.

Here's an example....

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/steel-cut-oatmeal-recipe/index.html

mmmm steal cut oats are delic. They are also totally raw. but regular non-quick quaker are rolled oats. pre-gelentinized (that is NOT spelled right)

4404
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: more aeration on day 2-3?
« on: October 08, 2012, 12:19:04 PM »
I'm sure I read somewhere it was OK to aerate until the SG passed the halfway mark on your planned attenuation.  So if you're aiming for ~1.020 from 1.100 then unless it's past 1.060 I think you should be OK.  I've never tried it though

I've read something similar, I couldn't remember what the cut-off is. If it were my beer, my cut-off would be a lot more conservative, maybe more like <20-25% of planned attenuation. I'd aerate if gravity > 1.080-84.

What I recall is that's it's OK up to 14-24 hours unless there's active fermentation at that point.  And do you really need it?  I've never re-aerated on any high gravity beer and always gotten great attenuation.  Maybe it's better to deal with it up front with a large healthy starter and adequate aeration at the beginning.

I mainly ask because on the last few big beers I have done i have gotten some slightly hot flavours. I kept the temp down fairly well with a fridge and controller. and they did age out.

Probably I am over thinking this and will just whip it to a froth before pitching and call it good.

Check my math here

Fermentis says at packaging the s-04 has 6X10^9 cells per gramme (is gramme equivelent to gram?).
so two 11.5 gram packs should have;
6X10^9 = 6,000,000,000 X 11.5 = 69,000,000,000 X 2 = 138,000,000,000. Assuming a desired pitch rate of ~300 billion cells for this brew am I still only half way to proper pitching rate even if the yeast are perfect? I do have a third packet and could get more tomorrow but the third packet was destined for the small beer and the brew store is closed on mondays. grrr.

4405
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wee heavy help!
« on: October 08, 2012, 12:06:41 PM »
ALL MUST SALUTE THE NOOB. =(


 I didnt cool the wort before reading the refractometer after boiling. My friend just told me his refractometer does not compensate for temperature. Assuming it was at 70C when I measured it (blowed it like hot food so it wouldnt break the thing), I did the math here.

it measured 28Brix at the time. Compensating temperature to 20C, it goes almost 34Brix, which translates to 1.135 SG

Today I measured my fermenting wort: 1.060


Now what? I'm thinking of pitching some WLP099 or WLP028 (bought both) to make it less sweet. It tastes good, but i think it tastes more like a barley wine at this stage.

first off, it's only been a week, there is no reason to think it has finished fermenting at this point. 1.060 is no where near done even at 1.135 OG. although that is a ridiculously high gravity ;)

Check it again in a week and I suspect you will see a further drop in gravity. Are you taking these post pitch readings with a hydrometer or refractometer? if refreactometer you need to do some more math to get the actual reading. The presence of alcahol throws off the refractometer enough to matter unlike a hydrometer. If you google Sean Terrill refractometer adjustment you will find a good resource for that adjustment.

overall RDWHAHB. patience will be rewarded...with beer.

4406
Yeast and Fermentation / more aeration on day 2-3?
« on: October 08, 2012, 10:30:03 AM »
I've got 5.5 gallons of 1.102ish Barley Wine wort in the fridge at home getting down to temp. I drained it out of the kettle into the fermenter at ~80* with a drop of about 4 inches from the spigot to the top of the bucket. Tonight I will whip the bee jee sus out of it with the mix stir before pitching 2 11g packets of s04 properly rehydrated in boiled, cooled RO water at about 90*.

I added a little over a tsp of generic C&B yeast nutrient at T-10 minutes from flameout as well. I had planned to add a bit more than that but that was all that was left as it turned out.

So my question is should I hit it with the mix stir again tomorrow night? or the next night? night after that? or just leave it be?

as an aside, this was the first time I used Sean Terrills partigyle simulator and it worked like a charm. My overall efficeincy was a little higher than I planned (BW was 1.102 when I planned 1.091, small beer was pretty right on, 1.036 instead of 1.040)

the above is not really germaine to the original posted question but I wanted to give props to sean.


4407
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Labeling bottles
« on: October 06, 2012, 06:51:32 PM »
For real labels, I use Microsoft Publisher.  After I print them out I attach them using a glue stick.  The glue is water soluble so they come off easily when the bottles are empty.  For down and dirty beer ID I just write the batch number on the cap with a Sharpie.
Do you just use like a card stock or some other paper.  I am not planning on a big production here but for some of the big beers that will be around longer or given as gifts I think it would be neat to design a nice label.  Not to mention the fun of coming up with names and descriptions.
For keepers and gifts I do the same as denny, for gifts I use nice resume paper.something with a high rag content and texture so they feel nice in you hand as well. You can buy label paper that is pre gummed and it goes through a laser printer well enough but it's expensive

4408
All Grain Brewing / Re: Recipes for some grain I've acquired
« on: October 06, 2012, 06:46:10 PM »
Wow 55 kb of carafa is going to take a while to get through.
The vienna can be used as a base grain as long as you don't user too many non enzymatic adjuncts.

Do you have access to fermentation temp control? You could do lots and lots of vienna lager.

The good news is that as long as it's not milled yet it will last a very long time as long as you keep it dry and away from bugs

4409
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wee heavy help!
« on: October 04, 2012, 01:06:56 PM »
one of the cool things about big beers like this is how much amazing complexity you can get just from process.

this link is to a really well regarded wee heavy recipe that a regular here on the forum created. You will notice that there is exactly 2 malts and one of them is only 1% of the recipe. His trick of boiling down some of the first runings to create caramel, coffee character is quite good and I have used it to good effect.

anyway here is the link
www.skotrat.com/skotrat/recipes/ale/scottish/recipes/10.html

EDIT: to add that one of the most important aspects of any scottish style, in my mind, is the yeast. the edinborough ale yeast gives a slight smokey earthy peaty thing that really makes a scottish ale. Some folks put a pinch of smoked malt in scottish ales for this reason but you don't really need it with that yeast. I suspect this will not be particularly useful for you in brasil but if you have a friend coming to visit from the states try to get them to bring a tube of yeast with them. You'd have to step it up ALOT after that trip but if you really like scottish ales...

4410
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wee heavy help!
« on: October 04, 2012, 12:34:44 PM »
Welcome to the obsession!

Pitching at 77 and fermenting at 77 isn't ideal but as you said you have to live with the situation you have. Scottish ales particular benefit from lower ferm temps however. One thing you might be able to do is to put the fermenter in a tub of water and add frozen water bottles to the water to keep the temp down. If you can do this I would aim for something between 62-65.

1.080 from less than 20 lb of grain isn't bad efficiency at all (69%) for a big beer and 1.102 is a perfectly acceptable OG for a wee heavy.

in terms of secondary it's really up to you. I don't think you will have a problem with autalysis in 4 weeks even at 77. I have left saisons at 80+ for about that long without issue. transfer if you wish but also don't worry to much about it.

Timeing, however is not up to you. it is up to the yeast. after a week or two take a sample and check the gravity. then check again in a week. If the gravity has not dropped it's probably done. you can leave it for a week or two more just to be safe after that or you can just bottle it up as soon as the gravity is stable.

on the recipe, it's a little cluttered. I good guideline is to never put an ingredient in your beer unless you know exactly why you are doing it. Justify every addition.

I think you will see some significant higher alcahol production as the internal temp of the fermenter can reach 5-10 degree higher than ambient especially with a big beer like this. Some of that will age out over time but you might find you get a wicked headache after drinking this beer.

First tries are what they are good on'ya for going AG right off the bat though.(not that there is anything wrong with extract brewers)

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