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Messages - morticaixavier

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All Things Food / Re: Kitchen Knives
« on: December 13, 2012, 08:51:07 AM »
Also be sure to get a sharpening Honing steel.


fixed that for you  ;)

Yes, it's very important to steel your knife every time you use it. I havn't had my knives sharpened in close to a eyar now and some of them (the ones I use most) do need it but it is amazing how much better they cut when you hone the blade before using.

By the way I have a mixed bag, mostly henckle but i have an odd man out paring knife from some off brand made in the USA company that is quite nice.

My small (6 inch) french chef get's the most use, then the 8 inch santuko. I have a 6 inch santuko as well and like it but it is third string for sure.

On the bread knife though I would say save some money and get a cheap stamped blade. They are a pain to sharpen anyway and with the serations you dont' really need to for a very long time. I have a $15 henckly stamped blade bread knife that works just fine

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: nothing is Happening
« on: December 12, 2012, 03:48:25 PM »
for my second batch i was thinking of starting fermentation right away in the Carboy, then use a water bath with a fish heater in the 72 degree range what do you think?

I think 72 is to warm. Think maybe 65.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Virgin Questions
« on: December 12, 2012, 12:17:27 PM »
On the priming front, you can naturally carbonate with priming sugar, just add the dissolved sugar to the keg prior to adding the beer. Seat the lid with some co2 and leave it in a warm place to carb up. It will leave more sediment in the keg but after the first pint or so it's not really a prblem unless you move the keg.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What are you tappin'?
« on: December 12, 2012, 08:56:26 AM »
Nothin really new here. Got a wit beer that turned out really nice even though it was second runnings from a barley wine, Capped the mash with some rolled oats, wheat malt, and a little extra pils (yes it was a pils based barley wine, I used what I had) tapped that the other night and was pleseantly suprised.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 12, 2012, 08:48:43 AM »
I'm surprised nobody has thrown out the idea of force carbing the entire keg, then just bottling from it. You can do it as simply as a bottling wand stuffed into a picnic tap with the springy bit removed. I have a beer gun, but for 6 bottles or so its not worth breaking it out. I do this all the time.

Advantages are clearer beer in the bottles (no sediment), you know the carb level, and it's faster.

somebody did  ;)

Or bring a growler to your friends and pull a growler full after it is forced carbed but before it is all gone.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 11, 2012, 11:34:36 PM »
You could put it all in a bottling bucket, add priming sugar, bottle a few and drain the rest into the keg. Let the bottled and kegged beer condition. Good to go.

That was kind of my original idea. The main thing is I want to get the bottling over with before I go over there due to a time crunch. In this instance I would have to transfer back to a cleaned and sanitized fermentation bucket for transportation since I somehow lost the lid for the bottling bucket.

I think I may have talked myself into this option even though it is probably more complicted than necessary. I think this makes sense due mainly to timing.

Okay, here is a compromise that I think will work alot better. Get the keg from your friend, transfer the whole amount of beer into the keg with the priming sugar and bottle the uncarbed beer from the keg. just force it out with minimal co2. then let the keg and the bottles condition.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: nothing is Happening
« on: December 11, 2012, 07:58:17 PM »
before Fermentation it was at 5.3%  i havent checked it recently, but i did just taste it, and it tastes like watered down beer that is really bitter, what do you experts think?

I think it's done. you said it yourself, watered down BEER wort is sweet and if nothing had happened it would probably also be somewhat sour and nasty but the yeast did their job and you now have beer! bottle it and drink it.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling small amount from full batch
« on: December 11, 2012, 04:45:57 PM »
Or bring a growler to your friends and pull a growler full after it is forced carbed but before it is all gone.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: IPA time
« on: December 11, 2012, 04:43:48 PM »
And if you are nervous about adding gypsum you can wait and add it to taste at packagine time.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: IPA time
« on: December 11, 2012, 12:59:58 PM »
+1 on skipping the amber malt extract. add 2 more lb pale extract, leave the medium crystal, skip the dextrine unless you have some really compelling reason to add it.

On hops I would add enough of your highest AA hops at the begining of the boil or First Wort Hop and a 60 minute to get most of your IBUs then load up at the end with the amarillo and FF and maybe some cascade as well. 1 oz each at 10, 5, and 0 and then Dry hop with a couple oz of similar mix as the late hops

Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 11, 2012, 11:37:46 AM »
alright, I will admit when I am wrong. course the fact that you can't displace all the o2 in a container with co2 is why I purge my kegs by filling with liquid and forcing that out with co2 so I was aware of this issue to some extent.


so does this mean that the 'blanket of co2' argument is false? If I am reading and understanding this discussion correctly it means that more or less all of the o2 that was in my fermenter headspace to start with, less the amount removed by the dilution with co2 from fermentation and the amount removed by disolution into the liquid is still present at the close of fermentation. Which means that even a little stirring of a finished beer risks oxidation.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast starter
« on: December 11, 2012, 10:53:57 AM »
What he said.

have you ever tasted the starter 'beer'? ask yourself how much of that flavour do you want in your finished product.

I like to give starters a week, I start them the weekend before my brew day and let them ferment out for 3 or 4 days then stick them in the fridge till I am ready to pitch. I pitch the day after brew day so that the wort can chill out the rest of the way to pitching temps so it's the day after brew day. If I am stepping the start up I give it a week per step. this may be overkill but it seems to work and it only takes an hour or so (less really) to get the starter going.

I like to do this also because I can't brew every weekend but between making starters, checking gravities, kegging, and bottling I can have some little brewing related task to accomplish pretty much every weekend.

Beer Recipes / Re: Milk Stout
« on: December 11, 2012, 09:00:13 AM »
I wouldn't think that .5 lb of each flaked grain is too much at all. No need to crush, just toss em in.

Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 11, 2012, 08:57:23 AM »
So, how does the oxygen that is in there get purged?

like any standard pin lock - depressing the poppit in the middle.
He said "oxygen."  When you have liquid in the PET bottle you can squeeze all the air out before capping it with the carbonator, then add CO2, but with hops, I don't think you can do that, so there will be some O2 in there, but very little.

I have always assumed that the idea is to fill the container with co2, wait a bit for things to settle down in there and then purge through a top opening which should get most of the o2 out as it will have migrated to the top portion of the container. still some o2 but a lot less

That's not how gases work.  Otherwise, basements would be deadly. :-)

excuse me, let me add 'In absence of any continued mixing' which, for all practical purposes doesn't happen in 'the real world'. and basements CAN be deadly. Think co2 fire extinguishers, or failing co2 bulk tanks for that matter. If you are in a basement with say 500lb of co2 in a tank and that tank suddenly empties that basement will very much be deadly. Why? because the co2 will displace all the other gases from the bottom up. That's why it works to put out fires. that's why a balloon filled with helium rises. That's why the myth buster guys can do the trick with the heavier than air gas in the fishtank and the boat made of foil (look it up, it's pretty cool). It's not perfect statification and any little tiny movement will mix the gases again but it does happen.

Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:51:53 AM »
you want to make sure the yeast have enough calcium but other than that I don't see why that wouldn't work

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