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Messages - morticaixavier

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: My fermentation...oh my!
« on: June 16, 2015, 05:31:16 AM »
so you added 1 lb/gallon of the D45? give tghe fermenter a swirl and see if it kicks back in. I wouldn't bother with more yeast at this point.

are you taking gravity readings with a hydrometer or a refractometer? if the later have you adjusted your gravity reading to account for alcohol?

The Pub / Re: If I could bother my friends here for a little help...
« on: June 16, 2015, 05:24:35 AM »
done and done. 48% of the vote so far Keith, way to go. I've even had a few of the options and can honestly say your's was the best I tried there.

Wood/Casks / Re: Porter burbon oaked and dryhop
« on: June 16, 2015, 04:59:52 AM »
I've not dryhopped with saaz before so I can't speak to that. Worst case scenerio is it's a bit muddled. if it works in your taste imagination than go for it.

Wood/Casks / Re: Porter burbon oaked and dryhop
« on: June 15, 2015, 06:14:45 PM »
The oak might want to stay on there a bit longer but let taste be your guide. You should be able to recycle the oak although it will lose character quicker than a barrel because it's smaller

Even if he stirred well the mash temp was too low and the mash too short. Because he added the strike water at mash temp instead of higher he ended up at 142 for 1 hour. Usually when lower temps are used 90 minute rests are used because the enzyme active in that temp range takes longer. And by lower we usually are talking about 148. 142 is technically in range for the enzyme (iirc the lower temp enzyme is alpha amalayze) its quite a bit lower than normal so maybe with a 2 hour rest a more normal efficiency might happen albeit with a very dry beer.
Also correct. (Although the enzyme in question is beta amylase)

you say to tossed the grains in, poured 150 degree water and walked away. did you stir well before walking away? this is a recipe for dough balls which will kill your efficiency. did you notice any dry areas when dumping your grain?

both the cooler and the grains will absorb a lot of temp. I wouldn't be surprised if your mash temp was lower than 145.

pulling the bag and rinsing by pouring water over it is a bad way to sparge. leave the grain in the cooler and refil, stir again, and then drain again.

All Things Food / Re: recommend some Pots and Pans
« on: June 09, 2015, 11:46:14 AM »
Amanda how do you like your induction range?

+1. I'm quite interested to hear how it performs

Beer Recipes / Re: Commission Brew Need ideas/Recipes
« on: June 09, 2015, 04:44:53 AM »
If you've got temp control a kolsch is great summer quaffing. Classic American Pilsner (Pre-Prohibition, whatever) is great for the BMC crowd but take a bit of time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter with water
« on: June 08, 2015, 04:48:14 PM »
I think you are misreading.

If you are using dry yeast you don't need or want to make a starter because the yeast are packaged with sufficient reserves to get going and making a starter will only results in them depleting these reserves.

Rehydrating the dry yeast in plain, boiled and cooled water will help cushion the yeast a but so they are not as stressed when introducing them to the wort.

you are correct that you will not increase your yeast count using only water.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: June 08, 2015, 12:59:26 PM »
Reserving the grain technique does NOT avoid an overly tart beer. Get your water right and the beer will follow.

+1.  I brewed a heavy RIS with this technique last summer that I ended up dumping due to lack of proper water salt additions and balancing the proper pH in the mash(before I studied water).  The beer came out tart and acidic past the point of my likability.  Drain pour!
For others that have a tart beer, try adding some baking soda or pickinling ime in small doses until you like it. Beats having to dump a batch.

+1 to this.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mash to Batch
« on: May 28, 2015, 05:57:42 PM »
I find the no sparge to give a better malt presence. I use it a lot for smaller beers where you want a lot of flavor without a lot of alcohol. It may be a reduction in tannin extraction that makes it seem maltier and richer or it may be my imagination but it does seem to work well. you target a much thinner final mash when no sparge is used. I will often to a mashout to get my final volume and hopefully knock out the last of the enzymes to maintain a less fermentable wort.

Here's an article by John Palmer that explains the no sparge method:

It should give you an idea of how to adjust the recipe if you wanted to batch sparge instead.

Thanks for the link, but that version of no sparge is different than what I'm seeing in this book. There is no increase in the grain bill here. For example, his New World IPA recipe calls for Step Infusion and no sparge.

Step infusion and no sparge are not mutually exclusive. step infusion just has you increasing the temp of your mash by adding hot water. no sparge just means only draining the mash and not adding more water after.

Beer Recipes / Re: WERID BEER
« on: May 28, 2015, 02:04:02 PM »
Smokey and spicy should go very will together. Think barbque(the kind with sauce) or smoked chili peppers. Black pepper bacon for that matter.

Beer Recipes / Re: WERID BEER
« on: May 28, 2015, 11:27:30 AM »
I think it highly unlikely that it will stop at 73% attentuation with that yeast. Saisons dry out even without sugar. that said, and above comments about why black... but if you want it black make it black. I would use the darker carafa in lower quantity though.

Beer Recipes / Re: Sprucey rye saison
« on: May 28, 2015, 06:40:15 AM »
The only thing I'll add is to get out there right away and get the spruce tips and freeze them. you want to use the fresh light green spring tips which are still out here in VT, USA but I'm not sure what the seasonal progression is like where you are.

It's about time to get this year's xmas beer test batch brewed. I am thinking of brewing a double black ale based on my schwarzbier recipe.

Right now my plan is to use the exact same grain bill but decrease the batch size to hit an OG around 1.080. Also I will increase the hop additions to match the IBU:OG of the normal beer. I will probably mash lower and longer than usual in order to encourage attenuation and am considering a small amount of sugar.

Any feedback?

two things leap out at me. first, I don't think you need the sugar at 1.080. mash long and low and pitch plenty of yeast into well aearated wort and it'll dry out just fine.

Second, I would consider scaleing down your specialty malts with the batch size so as not go get too roasty/munichy. when I'm 'imperializing' a recipe I bump the base malt and/or sugar to get my target gravity and leave everything else alone.

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