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Messages - morticaixavier

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4561
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:31:31 AM »
If you're using a priming sugar calculator like that, make sure that the temperature you use to lookup is the highest temperature the beer ever experienced after fermentation. So if a beer fermented at 68, but then warmed up to 75 afterwards, and now it's cold conditioning at 40 - lookup the priming value for 75 degrees because that high temperature will drive out much of the dissolved CO2 and it won't go back when the beer cools.  Not sure if this applies to you.

but, unless the beer spent some time at higher than 70 that mistake would result in overcarbing as the calculator would recommend more sugar given a higher temp.

????? I think your math is upside down.  If you should calculate for 70 degrees, but you instead calculate for 40 degrees, you'll wind up adding less sugar than needed - which is exactly what you said, but not.

right, but the OP said he calculated for the temp the bottles would condition at (70*) I assumed that he fermented cooler than that so if he calced for 70* and the beer never went warmer than say 65* it would be slightly too much sugar. probably fairly negligiable(no spell check at work >:() either way though

4562
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Undercarbed Bottles
« on: July 31, 2012, 07:50:31 AM »
If you're using a priming sugar calculator like that, make sure that the temperature you use to lookup is the highest temperature the beer ever experienced after fermentation. So if a beer fermented at 68, but then warmed up to 75 afterwards, and now it's cold conditioning at 40 - lookup the priming value for 75 degrees because that high temperature will drive out much of the dissolved CO2 and it won't go back when the beer cools.  Not sure if this applies to you.

but, unless the beer spent some time at higher than 70 that mistake would result in overcarbing as the calculator would recommend more sugar given a higher temp.

4563
Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion chiller question
« on: July 31, 2012, 07:46:18 AM »
+1 to moving the wort. I use a sanitized silicon spatula and keep stirring the wort the whole time. I get close to Tin within about 20-30 minutes. for me, in the summer this means putting the wort in the fermenter at ~80* and letting it chill the rest of the way overnight in the fridge. But I can feel the change when I put my hand on the outflow end of the IC and stir the Tout gets higher.

4564
Other Fermentables / Re: Tannin's in Mead
« on: July 31, 2012, 07:40:44 AM »
Did you add an acid blend? those will have some tannin I believe. drying out a sack mead though seems counterproductive. aren't they supposed to be sweet?

4565
The Pub / Re: song title game
« on: July 31, 2012, 07:34:16 AM »
Eye of the Tiger - Survivor

4566
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Saison Dupont
« on: July 30, 2012, 10:26:01 AM »
Find a bottle shop that keeps them way in the back away from windows and bright lights. or better yet ask for one that's still in the box and skip the crap on the shelves.

4567
Kegging and Bottling / Re: NO FLOW
« on: July 30, 2012, 10:01:01 AM »
I had a similar problem some time back. Look at the post and poppet when those are out. The bottom side might be packed full of hop particles. If you see anything, remove the poppet, clean it all out, sanitize, reassemble.

Now the beer is filtered through a nylon mesh bag when racking to keep the hop particles out.

I am going to try this next time. I think my problem started when I stopped worrying about preventing hop pellet gunk from going in the fermenter so I was pulling alot more into the keg. THe yeast gunk, break material and other soft and squishy trub doesn't ussually cause this problem but the hop particles sure do.

4568
Kegging and Bottling / Re: NO FLOW
« on: July 30, 2012, 07:52:34 AM »
I had a problem with a keg clogging up the other day. I transfered a bit too much gunk into the keg and it would pour for a moment, maybe an ounce or so, then stop. I would dump presure, pull the dip tube clean everything out and put it back to get another ounce or so. Finally I too the bottom half of one of those little perforated steel tea balls, attached it to the bottom of the dip tube with a piece of grain bag and a rubber band and it worked from that point to the end of the keg. just a thought.

4569
Ended up brewing a session witesque beer, but with some flaked rye, black pepper, and dried lemon.

But the LHBS did not have wit yeast so I grabbed a WLP565 and a WLP568

so off in the belgian anything goes farmhouse tradition.

4570
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Looking Forward to Fall
« on: July 27, 2012, 12:53:38 PM »
I am working on a beer i am calling "emancipation"  i have no idea what it will be exactly but the og target will be 1.100. this is to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 100th anniversary of the emancipation proclomation.  in otherwords, my 50th birthday. (i was born on the 100th anniversary)  will post when i get something but ideas anyone.  i am thinking of something with a bunch of vienna and munich to high gravity.  as the day is approaching it will be a lager but only with short lagering period.

that's called a sesquicentennial

4571
Also got some yard work to do, gotta finish up the drip irrigation in the garden. Also going to brew 10 g of something with wheat and rye. sounds like a saison to me.

4572
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: We need to talk...
« on: July 27, 2012, 08:28:05 AM »
Something like this (translated to standard west coast american);

"Dude! your beer lines are totally gross. They, like, make me want to, like, barf. If you want to sling this bad a** beer, bro, you are gonna have to strip that s**t down and keep it stripped. WORD"

Can you recommend a good online tool to translate that into standard northeastern American?  ;D

That's easy,

"Lines're a bit ripe"

4573
Ingredients / Re: Ras el Hanout
« on: July 27, 2012, 08:23:49 AM »
Had to google that one. Sounds like a curry powder or garam masala. hard to say how it would be in beer given the variability of recipe. I notice, at least according to wikipedia, that it sometimes contains orris root powder, which is the dried and powdered root of iris plants and is also poison as far as I know. Probably not dangerous at low concentrations but something to think about.

4574
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: We need to talk...
« on: July 26, 2012, 01:31:45 PM »
I think, if you are intending to enter into a business arangement with this guy and you can't talk to him about quality issues related to his end of the business you should run away. Like arthur and the nights of the round table in Monty Python, RUN AWAY!!!!!!

But as a first step just come right out with it. Isn't French culture pretty supporting of in your face honesty?

Something like this (translated to standard west coast american);

"Dude! your beer lines are totally gross. They, like, make me want to, like, barf. If you want to sling this bad a** beer, bro, you are gonna have to strip that s**t down and keep it stripped. WORD"

4575
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is My Wheat Ale Stuck?
« on: July 26, 2012, 11:42:37 AM »
It might cause it to be off a bit as there is disolved co2 in the beer that can cling to the hydrimeter and lift it slightly. until I got a sample cylinder I just used the plastic cylinder that the hydro comes in. Either a wine thief or a clean new turkey baster for pulling samples.

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