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Messages - morticaixavier

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The plasticy bandaidy say's chlorine/chloramine to me although there are infections that could cause it as well. What kind of water did you use?

The licorice/alcohol says fermentation temp to me. What was the temp during the first 3-4 days of fermentation? actually the licorice might be a result of the dark malts and crystal combined with slightly higher than normal esters from a high ferm temp.

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: March 15, 2012, 03:20:20 PM »
I no longer have place for a garden but back when I did I'd plan my onions very shallow and cover them in a thick layer of grass clippings.  We have very heavy soil and it doesn't work well for bulbs, tubers or anything harvested from under ground.  By the end of the growing season the onions were all above ground but under 5-6" of grass clippings.  Worked great for many years.


My mother in law was telling me that this is how she used to do potatoes. in hay or straw.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer of the Week
« on: March 15, 2012, 02:45:13 PM »
I have a question. Why not just boil longer to get more of the water out instead of freezing and skimming?

can't say for sure, but I would guess it has to do with differences in flavour. A beer with a 1.100 OG fermeted out to 1.020 is going to taste different than a beer with a 1.070 OG fermented out to 10.14 and then freeze concentrated.

I would think that the freeze concentrated one would have a cleaner profile as the yeast would have been healthier during the lower stress fermentation.

the other reason would be to make a beer that would be more or less impossible by simply making the OG higher. you'de be hard pressed to get a 1.200 beer to ferment for instance but if you made a 1.100 beer, fermented it out and removed half the remaining water...

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: March 15, 2012, 02:31:57 PM »
I did not know this, but apparently Swiss Chard and Rhubarb are relatives! Except while you eat the leaves on chard, the leaves on rhubarb are toxic. The more you know.

and they are both a type of beet.


and as I discovered, in some places chard is perennial. I've been fighting with giant three foot chard plants that the prior resident of my house let go wild all over the lawn.

Other Fermentables / Re: Acid in cider
« on: March 14, 2012, 09:42:17 PM »
Wow, 40 is a really good score! you can add any off those acids you mentioned, just not LSD, the dose would to high by the time you got your desired tartness level. 8)

The Pub / Re: AHA joke thread
« on: March 14, 2012, 09:38:54 PM »
That rapist picture is hilarious and I'm guessing it's real.

Pretty sure it belongs in the Meaningless Thread.

.....again, I got nothin. ;D

The problem with that picture is that they don't look that much alike beyond both being black and both having mustaches.

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: March 14, 2012, 09:36:21 PM »
8).  Wow, I am impressed most of you folks start your seeds.

I am a bit lame in that arena still.  Other than stuff that sprouts in place, I buy plants at the local greenhouse.  Maybe because my garden tends on the small side, and I cannot use a whole packet of certain seeds.  Like, I might plant one sungold cherry tomato, a couple of brandywine, 4 poblano and 4 jalapeno, etc.  I guess the greenhouse has a good selection, but probably more $pendy. ::)

I have been screening and packing compost.  Trimmed back the raspberries, planted some spinach, lettuce and cilantro.  Garlic just came up this week.

So onions.  I want to get onions right this year, and be able to stick a bunch away for use all winter.
My success with them in the past has been spotty, which seems odd to me because they seem simple enough.
I start with the little bulbs; is that what most of you do?  Most come up, but a lot went to flower right off the bat last year, which looks cool but does not make a large, storable onion.  Any thoughts on that?

for storage purposes it's a good idea to start onions from seed. They store better than way and are less likely to bolt on you.

5648 spend your entire lunch hour and breaks on the AHA forum.  8)

You spent your entire lunch hour and breaks doing something other than the AHA forum...because you are on it the rest of the time you are at work  :o

I don't know what you are tal... oh crap the boss.

If the rain lets up long enough friday night I will brew 10 gallons of rye stout.

This is NOT a celebration of the christians driving all the pagan kings out of ireland, I just like stout.

Welcome to the obsession

first things first, get your next batch started ASAP. This one will disappear all to quickly.

your procedure looks good for the most part. a couple notes

the instructions to pitch at 80* should... if you will excuse the pun... be pitched. Try to chill down to the low to mid 60s before pitching. and try to keep the temp there throughout fermentation. There are a lot of ways to control the ferm temp which you can explore at length here on the forum.

don't automatically expect fermentation to be done in a particular number of days. I think your fine on this one 1.011 sounds like a reasonable FG given the recipe.

The bitterness will fade given time however the flavour and aroma will also fade and with a beer of this stature it may not really be at it's best by the time the bitterness is where you want it. However as the carbonation gets up to a higher level some of the bitterness will... fade is the wrong word but mellow might work. This is a perception thing more than anything else.

It is possible that the bitterness is exactly where the designer of the kit intended it and your tastes don't match with their tastes. No worries just try some other styles. pale ale is a good starting point because as you see it's pretty simple. But if you don't like the level of bitterness you could try an amber or brown ale which tend to be less hoppy. You can try adding less hops at the begining of the boil and more at the end to get more aroma and less bitterness.

generally hops added in the first 30 minutes of the boil will lend almost entirely bitterness with little or no flavour or aroma, hops added around 30 minutes will add some bitterness and some flavour but little or no aroma, and hops added in the last 15 minutes will add flavour and aroma but little bitterness. That being said many people perceive hop flavour as bitter because they 'know' that hops are bitter.

well a long answer to a long question. let us know if there are more!!

You notice that the AHA website is down faster than your own website.


I was just about to post

... when you discover the AHA forum is down and it makes you a little uneasy.

Ingredients / Re: does rye malt always have a gray-blueish tint to it?
« on: March 14, 2012, 03:47:34 PM »
Rye are you so worried about this?  :D

Don't forget to tip the wait staff.

My my Bo, aren't don't we have a rye sense of humor

The more I think about it, the less adding nutrients to beer fermentation makes sense to me. I haven't found many hard numbers for yeast available nitrogen content in wort, but one study found a typical range to be 1-2g/L, or 1000mg/L - 2000mg/L.

Brewers' yeasts' nitrogen requirements aren't published, but wine yeasts' are. The "standard" winemaking yeast available nitrogen recommendation at 28 Brix (1.120) would be 375-425mg/L. Wine yeast nitrogen requirements vary pretty widely, with some needing nearly twice as much as others. I assume beer yeasts are similar in that regard. Even if the yeast needed twice the nutrients, that'd only be 850mg/L, well below the minimum reported amount of yeast available nitrogen in wort.

In order to need nutrients for a wort fermentation, you'd need to have a very nutrient-deficient wort, and a yeast with exceptionally high nutrient needs.

this is an interesting idea. However you are only looking at 1 nutrient. Perhaps it would be worthwhile to find a yeast nutrient with low or no N but I have noticed (in a very unscientific way) better results when using nutrients then when not, at least with big beers.

Beer Recipes / Re: Munich malt question
« on: March 14, 2012, 03:10:53 PM »
Yeah it's great as a single malt beer. my barley wine is all munich (SMaSH in fact) as is my ordinary bitter.

with 9 lbs you could do a nice ESB or similar. gives a great malty flavour.

Now, one caveat is that I used the 10Lish version of munich, I do not know if the darker stuff will self convert well or not. but the lighter stuff is just fine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Batch 500
« on: March 14, 2012, 02:37:05 PM »

nice, how long did you kiln for the munich? I assume you started with plain old 2 row? or pils?

it was plain old breiss 2-row.  i used the table out of homebrewer's garden.  i will look and make sure what i did when i get home but i think it was 400 degrees for 20 minutes.  i used my rival roaster.  stunk up the garage ( i liked it wife not so much) the rival roaster was a failed attempt at using as an electric kettle but it worked great for this.  let grain mature post roast for about 3 weeks in paper bag.  i made bread out of the spent grain and was pretty good.

cool. I have that book. Guess it's time to dig it out again. I forgot it had time/temp tables.

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