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Topics - jimbo44

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Equipment and Software / CFC to Whirlpool question
« on: October 13, 2010, 10:03:08 PM »
I have a chillzilla CFC that I have been using for a year with great success.  I am lucky to have cold ground water and it will chill wort to 65 no problem.  I recently set my boil kettle up to whirlpool.  I have the wort run through the chiller into a pump and back into the kettle at an angle.  I know others have done this and results vary, but I have been having great success.  My wort is cooled down fairly quickly and haven't noticed an increase in DMS or lack of late hop addition aromas. 
My question:  Do any of you chemists out there know if cooling the wort to 65 and then pumping back into wort that is basically 212 can negatively effect enzymes?  the overall wort cools down pretty fast so this only happens for the first 5-10 mins, but can cooled wort being reheated have an effect on enzymes or anything else for that matter?  Will the late hop additions being cooled and then re-heated be driven off or further isomerised.  Thanks in advance.

Equipment and Software / Keggle False Bottom
« on: October 11, 2010, 04:00:21 AM »
Alright forum.  I have a two tier Rims system with 10" false bottoms on my mash tun and boil kettle.  Both are keggles.  The false bottoms are filled with 3/32 holes (prefab.)  I'm looking for something that will completely cover the the bottom of the keggle just where it starts to curve in.  Then I'll place my pick up tube in the middle.  This would make a 15" false bottom with hinges so it can fit through the keggle hole in the top.  I've seen examples of this and even found them on the sabco page.  I'm a chronic do it yourselfer and I already have the pick up tubes in place so I would like to make the false bottoms work with the pickup tubes I have.  I would like to hear about and see your keggle false bottoms.  Also, would love some pointers on where to find supplies and how you made your own.  The problem with the 10" false bottom is that it sits in the middle of the bottom of the keggle.  This allows for grains to filter around the edges because of the curvature.  It even does it when I use a hose clamp to really push the false bottom to the keggle.  Thanks in advance.

General Homebrew Discussion / Comp Question
« on: October 03, 2010, 04:13:38 AM »
I am planning out my attack for NHC.  I was planning on doing some wood aged stuff.  Does a 22C Wood Aged Beer have to have a Base Beer that is a specific category or can I make a specialty ale 23A and wood age it?  Would you enter that in 22C or 23A or both?  Same Question applied to 22B Other Smoked Beer?  Hope this question makes sense and thanks in advance.

General Homebrew Discussion / Sour Mash
« on: May 25, 2010, 07:45:06 AM »
I recently (Kind Of) enjoyed a sour ale from Big Horse in Hood River.  On the notes, it says the brewer employed a sour mash to make the ale.  I have heard of sour mash four hard A, but not for brewing..   Can anyone explain this means in a beer brewing sense and the techniques used. 

All Grain Brewing / fly with rect. cooler
« on: January 27, 2010, 07:52:09 AM »
I've posted about getting better efficiency before, and I've always applied the suggestions to the equation.  I have a manifold that covers about as much as the bottom without it being a false.  I have a sparge arm that very slowly and evenly distributes.  The only question I have.

Does anyone FLY sparge with a rectangular cooler?  If so, do you use a manifold, and Sparge arm?  If so, would you please post a picture of your system and your average efficiency.  Just curious whether I should bag fly sparging with a rectangular cooler or if my system is missing something.  I don't know why, but i really want to nail fly sparging.

I understand the million variables.  Just want to see your system.  Want to know I'm lautering as best i can before I worry about some of the other variables.  I already sparge for 30 to 45 minutes with my PH between 5.2 and 5.6

Kegging and Bottling / Beer Gun or Conditioning with priming sugar?
« on: December 29, 2009, 08:03:08 AM »
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't find any history.  My question is, When bottling a whole batch of beer is it good to use priming sugar, Or should I force carbonate and use a beer gun.  I know for shorter term bottling and comp. beers a beer gun is great.  What about long term bottled beers or just the whole batch in general.   

All Grain Brewing / DMS in Beer
« on: December 25, 2009, 06:23:21 AM »
yesterday i brewed a high gravity baltic.  I believe I sparged too quickly.  After cooling and pitching my OG came in lower then it should have.  I decided I wasn't happy with that so I Boiled 0.5 lb of DME in about 3 cups of water for 15 minutes.  Cooled and added it to the wort.

I am worried that because I didn't do a full boil there may be larger amounts of Dimethyl Sulfides in that DME wort.  My question is, Has anyone ever done this and what where your results?  Also, Is DMS prevelent in all grain wort only, and because DME has been processed it will be absent of DMS?  Its a dark beer so I am not as worried but I am curious.

General Homebrew Discussion / Good resources for labels?
« on: December 13, 2009, 05:50:56 PM »
I am going to be brewing a extra stout in a couple weeks.  Plan on conditioning for the year and giving as a christmas gift to folks next year.  Thought maybe it would be cool to work on a label for it.  Anybody have good websites or computer programs for beer bottle labels.  Want something decent that won't run when wet.

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