Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jimbo44

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
I think you should always support your LHBS.  With that said I built a two stage temp controller for the price of a single.  It's very easy and it works great.  Plus its fun to make your own.  Check this link out.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/

17
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Tap handle locations?
« on: May 25, 2010, 12:30:33 AM »
I like the side mount but you can also connect the fridge and the freezer door.  I like it that way because I build my own taps and I can make a nice tall tap and not worry about one to many pints making me open the freezer to grab hops and opening all my taps in the process.

18
Equipment and Software / Re: ATC Refractometers
« on: May 25, 2010, 12:24:32 AM »
I simply pull of a pipette full of wort (about four drops) and run the bulb under cold water for about 5 seconds.  then I drop a couple on the refrac and look.  I have broke a refrac with 212 water.  also be gentle when you flip the lid down.  really hot wort and an impact can break the prism.  It doesn't happen every time, but if it happens once, thats one to many.  Side Note:  I use beer smith and there's a nice conversion tool for measuring fermenting wort.  I have ran some tests and that can be off by more than three points.  That can really start to add up, so I suggest always using a hydrometer once it is fermenting.

19
The Pub / Re: Old Sayings - Cryptic Quotes
« on: February 26, 2010, 04:55:16 PM »
"How ya been."  "Finer than Frogs hair."

"I'm hornier than a two peckered billy goat"

20
All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Depth
« on: February 03, 2010, 01:07:46 AM »
Not that I'm a pro, but we live in the same town so if you ever want someone to look your system over let me know.

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing Salts...
« on: February 03, 2010, 12:59:11 AM »

Sulfates; bittering and ?

Chlorides: what?   ???


Sorry, Should have read the last two lines.  Chlorides = malt, Sulfides = bittering.  The brewstrong episodes on water will help a ton.

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing Salts...
« on: February 03, 2010, 12:56:53 AM »
check out the  Brew Strong series on Water (4 episodes, IIRC).
Excellent reference material.

Also read the PH and water profile section in Palmer's book.  I found that reading it meant alot less re-winding on brewstrong.  Then listen to the four episodes on brewstrong.  The most important thing i took from it all.  Water chemistry and salts are important.  But, first figure out the mash in relation to efficiency.  Figure out fermentation temp control.  Figure out Aeration.  Then start focusing on water profiles, and salts.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's brewing this weekend 2/5
« on: February 03, 2010, 12:49:36 AM »
Caldera IPA

I just had a two hour tasting at calderas tap house a couple weeks ago.  They have nearly twenty on tap.  It was cool because their tap house is the original Rogue tap house in Ashland OR.

24
All Grain Brewing / Re: malt crushing and wort polyphenols
« on: January 27, 2010, 10:31:48 PM »
Not only is it my favorite pils, it's one of my all time favorite beers.  It's on tap several places around Eugene.


Name a place it's on tap, would you.  I'd like to try it next time I'm over the hill.

25
All Grain Brewing / Re: Roasting your own grains
« on: January 27, 2010, 01:03:19 AM »
I've roasted some crystal 60 for an Irish red.  The next time I brewed that same beer I forgot to roast (by forgot I mean I had to many homebrew's and had an impromptu brew day).  The second batch was very much difference.  The first batch had a rich (not sweet) malty flavor with a wonderful mouthfeel.  The second batch was much dryer, with a lighter mouthfeel.  All I can say is it doesn't take much time or much heat.

26
All Grain Brewing / fly with rect. cooler
« on: January 27, 2010, 12:52:09 AM »
I've posted about getting better efficiency before, and I've always applied the suggestions to the equation.  I have a manifold that covers about as much as the bottom without it being a false.  I have a sparge arm that very slowly and evenly distributes.  The only question I have.

Does anyone FLY sparge with a rectangular cooler?  If so, do you use a manifold, and Sparge arm?  If so, would you please post a picture of your system and your average efficiency.  Just curious whether I should bag fly sparging with a rectangular cooler or if my system is missing something.  I don't know why, but i really want to nail fly sparging.

I understand the million variables.  Just want to see your system.  Want to know I'm lautering as best i can before I worry about some of the other variables.  I already sparge for 30 to 45 minutes with my PH between 5.2 and 5.6

27
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: brewing....and music
« on: January 17, 2010, 09:35:47 AM »
I would have to second Dave Matthews.  Also, some John Butler Trio, maybe a little Jack Johnson or Brett Dennen.

28
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer Gun or Conditioning with priming sugar?
« on: January 07, 2010, 11:44:36 PM »
thanks for all the help.  I think I will condition my baltic for next Christmas and carb. bottle a couple winter ales and save for next year.  They're somewhat similar.  I think my baltic will benefit from conditioning with yeast.  Good info. thanks.

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: Double pass milling
« on: January 07, 2010, 11:30:02 PM »
This may be a long one.

I am new to AG but (dare I say) I am fairly well studied on the topic.  I have been having an issue with efficiency lately.  about ten points off the estimates on beersmith that is calculated to a 75% which means that I am at about 55-60%.  I fly sparge.  I slowed it down alot and got better results one time but then back to 55-60%.  I upped my mash to 75 minutes.  my iodine test are showing complete conversion.  I am using the proper runoff before boil and I've calculated my evaporation rates and the other variables.  I am hitting my strike temps within 2 degrees.  Still getting poor efficiency.  I use a 8 gallon cooler and have a very evenly distributed sparging/lautering system that is far enough from the edges to prevent channeling down the sides.  I know enough about water chemistry to keep my mash around 5.1-5.5.  Here are some ideas.  I don't really mash out.  my sparge water seems to keep the mash in the 150s.  Could that be an issue.  Is beer smiths percentages off and I'm actually doing o.k. The only other idea is this.  I dont have a mill and I use my LHBS mill.  the crush always looks picture perfect to me but I might be wrong.

Sorry for the rambling.  I going to continue to make some adjustments.  double mill, mash out at higher temps.  Heres my question.  Can anyone think about something else that could help with my poor efficiency? 

30
I've been looking for a specific Belgium style tulip.  I personally like a bigger bowl with a short stout stem.  I finally found what I was looking for and thought I'd share it.   

http://www.amazon.com/Stolzle-Berlin-Beer-Glass-13-75/dp/B001LQLMM2/ref=acc_glance_ktch_ai_-2

Pages: 1 [2] 3