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Messages - brewsumore

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: mandarina
« on: Today at 11:30:06 AM »
MB has less oils than Mosaic, Simcoe, Citra and so on. IIRC it has about 1% or less, those others have 2 to 3 % oil. If you want an aroma punch like those hops give, you need to double or triple.

That's a great bit of info.  I'm glad I have a pound of pellets to work with!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: mandarina
« on: Today at 11:16:27 AM »
I made an all Mandarina pils (90:10 pils munich) 1.053/41 IBUs

Just kegged 2 weeks ago. Took a sample last night and the orange citrus character screams out on this one.  Also get some lime and melon.

Orange is nearly as strong as the zest in a fresh keg of witbier.

Hop flavor is a bit lacking - I think this particular recipe might have been better with tett or mittlefruh for flavor additions and MB for flameout only.

Still a bit of haze in the beer but will post back w pic once it has cleared up and is actually on tap.

Paul, I look forward to hearing back about how this turned out.  I'm thinking my next brew will be a Mandarina IPL with 34/70 (4th generation).

I have four Perlick 425's on my kegerator.  Perlick stopped making them about 5 years ago, but they have the removable spout and still are still working great for me.  I too have a bottle/growler filler screw-in adapter for the 425's exactly like the VM one in your article.

Thanks for sharing the article - if the 425's were to fail I would definitely go with the VM's.

I run just a teensy tiny smudge of keg lube between thumb and finger run around the threads where the spout goes on to make removing and putting on the spout easier, and less likely to lead to cross threading.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Winter/Garage Brewing
« on: September 27, 2015, 01:30:41 PM »
My individual preference is to brew 10-gal batches, winter, spring, summer, fall.  However I'm lucky enough that there are enough +32F days in winter to wait for one to do what I prefer which is to brew on my covered patio outside.  This way my hoses don't freeze solid, and when I chill with an IC the runoff doesn't turn to ice before it evaporates (usually).

To each his own, but I recognize that it is much more challenging in a more northern/frigid climate, and in that event I would try to adapt by brewing in a garage, even if I needed a space heater and a fan.  Water runoff would seem to pose the biggest problem, so as not to create a skating rink on the lawn and/or driveway.


Maybe you should cut a keg sized hole in the lid of an 10G Igloo water cooler and place the keg down in that hole. That should cover 90% of a keg at least and insulate your cooling water for less frozen bottle additions.

I did this for a portable kegerator, except with a 70-quart igloo ice chest.  You can see what it looks like with a ball lock keg via my posts with photos on page 4 and 5 of the old thread on another board at:

FWIW, it insulates really well.  I can keep the beer ice cold serving at least 2 - 3 days in hot summer weather, without adding more ice.  With a keg inside it holds 40 lbs of ice, so plenty of room for frozen bottles to maintain a ferment temp with fewer bottles as suggested above.

In case you want to reconsider another alternative to the ferment cooling bag...

And it could do double duty as a portable kegerator / jockey box.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Yeast Company
« on: September 09, 2015, 10:57:43 PM »
If I could go back to organic vs "normal".

Question is:

if I take normal yeast and keep making  organic wort and I am on let say 5-th generation. Is my yeast organic at that time? As we know all original cells are dead by then.

The same goes if I get organic yeast and feed it with normal wort and I am on 5-th generation. Is this yeast still organic or not?

Thank you.
Good questions. I have similar thoughts about non-organic seeds that turn into plants raised organically. I don't really think the yeast cells matter so much its probably the wort they grow them in and hence the barley. Don't forget that organic farming is not just about the food we ingest but also the effect on our ecosystem. The more people buy organic the less pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers are used and less toxic materials are getting into our water supply and food and soil. Also less unintended consequences like beehive collapse disorder. Also the more people who buy organic the more farmers see it as profitable and produce a critical mass to get advantages of scale and lower prices.

Pete - I just want to say how grateful I am for all of your posts in this thread.  I agree on all fronts.  I appreciate the efforts of many in this time in our history to attempt to return at least a healthy segment of our overall food production to sustainable, natural farming methods that enrich the soil through traditional methods such as crop rotation and livestock "fertilizer" that in balance create "systems" that provides the platform to manage a typically diverse array of more nutritional, and much better tasting vegetables, fruits and meats, which "systems" big business has attempted to convince us as a nation are not in our best interest. 

I just read that 1/2 of the U.S. population has, or is in danger of getting diabetes.  Something like 65% of our food production is starches, mostly wheat, and the majority of companies have stripped out so many of the nutritional and tasty parts of bread for the sake of making products shelf-stable (and therefore more commercially viable for long term transport and storage), that it's no wonder that many people have become gluten intolerant and suffer other toxic effects from what for ages has been hailed as "the staff of life".  If only we could convince people to just say "no" to the fast food, giant production company mentality.  It is indeed interesting that organic farmers are now sometimes sought out as experts to improve the bottom line for until now non-organic enterprises.

I must admit that I buy only a limited amount of organic foods due to cost but I do try to enjoy satisfying food and stay healthy, and desire to support good stewards of our lands and our people's right to healthy food, even if only by buying from a farmer's market or roadside stand.

Do you care to share what product and water to product ratio?  I'm curious if you use a hardware store product or order pure lye, or other approach.  Thanks!

Since I'm only using the lye as an equipment rinse, I'm not concerned with it being food grade. On top of that, the potential for hazardous impurities in this type of chemical is not high. I use the typical hardware store product. Red Devil is the brand currently on my shelf.

I do not mix the solution to any set strength. I just dip my finger tip in the solution and rub my fingers together. If the solution feels slippery, its strong enough. It's slippery since the solution is turning the fats and oils in my skin into soap. Needless to say, I wash it off my fingers IMMEDIATELY.

Thanks for the usage tip - and I do mean just the tip of my finger!  I'll grab some lye at the hardware store to add to my arsenal!

Here's another tip for general consumption - if you want to GOOGLE the product Penetrate mentioned by Amanda, use the string "Penetrate beer line cleaner" and NOT "red devil penetrate".   

I like BLC, but sometimes my lines develop a biofilm that BLC can't defeat. That is when a strong lye solution works wonders. I hang the line in a U configuration and fill it with the solution. An hour or two soaking leaves the tubing interior film free. After rinsing the line, it goes into starsan.

PS: lye solution is dangerous and you need to protect your skin and eyes from any contact. Use something like goggles and gloves to prevent contact.

Do you care to share what product and water to product ratio?  I'm curious if you use a hardware store product or order pure lye, or other approach.  Thanks!

I had to wrap a lot of Teflon tape on mine to maintain pressure. Connecting to the flare isn't too bad, better than connecting to the faucet shank.

True that!  But I had leak problems, had to go with barbed hose adapter connections to different size hoses, hose clamps, etc.  A mess.

I first tried the Watts A-176 (part #) flare fitting and it would not fit into my liquid post, so that's why I went back to the store with FloMaster bottle and liquid post in hand, and tried parts until I got one that worked.  YMMV.

Martin - thanks for the lye suggestion.  Much better than replacing lines!

I use a modified garden sprayer. I clean all of my lines at the same time reusing the BLC. I want to build a pond pump based recirculating system, but that is low priority right now.

The hardest part of the build was finding a liquid post with the right threading. I took the fitting to my LHBS and went through a bin of posts until I succeeded.

That's a long thread - I didn't read much of it, but I liked its simplicity and wanted to upgrade from the pump bottle beer line cleaning tool I previously made, that was a pain because it screws onto the liquid line flare fitting rather than directly into a QD.

Anyway, so I bought the FloMaster bottle at Home Depot, and found a Watts brand brass adapter at Lowe's that, similar to the initial post via the link, connected the ball lock liquid post to the FloMaster with a single fitting.  It's probably also found in the HomeBrewTalk thread, but here's the Watts brand brass compression adapter fitting that will work to connect the FloMaster to typical Pepsi threads of a ball lock liquid post:

WATTS Part# LFA-117  labeled as Compression / Lead Free / Adapter  3/8 in OD x 3/8 in FIP

It is NOT a flare fitting.

Caveat:  the 3/8 OD post on the adapter only turned several turns, and just a tad loosely into the liquid post, but it was plenty of purchase to create a good seal when using teflon tape.  I had to wrap a lot of teflon tape (7 - 10 wraps) on the adapter male side, and 5 - 6 wraps on the FloMaster plastic male threads to get a great seal.  But tightened down this works well - nary a drip when the bottle is pumped up with pressure.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature of US-05
« on: August 24, 2015, 10:42:30 PM »
I've been getting good results with US-05 pitching a healthy amount at 64F where I hold it for 48 hrs, then up to 65F for 24 hrs, then up to 67F for remainder of ferment - at least for IPA or PA.

Ingredients / Green Magic experimental hops
« on: August 22, 2015, 08:39:35 PM »
This past May I redeemed a coupon with YVH and got 8 oz of these for free with my order, leaf hops.  Does anybody have any experience with them?  Mine are still in my freezer.  Thanks.

Today I brewed 10 gal of RR Blind Pig clone except amped up IBUs, and used 20 lbs of Golden Promise for the base malt, since I wanted to use it up before it went stale.  Not at all unhappy about that as a sub for US pale or 2-row.  The brewday went well.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Maximum psi for ball lock liquid side QD
« on: July 20, 2015, 12:33:27 PM »
Thanks guys.  Huh, the cheap ones I have don't have a top gasket (under the screwdriver fed cap) - only one gasket, on the stem.  Anyway, the one I swapped on works fine at 40 psi, as you suggest.  And the beer is at least reasonably carbed now.  A few of us will be headed to see Bruce Hornsby and the Noisemakers tonight here in Spokane after fish tacos and of course homebrew at my house.

I'll just toss the offending unit.   8)

Kegging and Bottling / Maximum psi for ball lock liquid side QD
« on: July 19, 2015, 11:12:50 PM »
Anybody know what they're normally rated to withstand?  I have a pal visiting from out of state tomorrow and to hurry along the carbing of a Pliny the Elder clone, I was hoping to get it mostly force carbed at 40 psi (34F) over 48 hrs.  I attached the liquid side to a faucet (in my kegerator) to check progress occasionally. 

I went and checked it and there was a bit of beer foaming out the top of the QD.  Had to clean a few ounces of beer from the bottom of the kegerator but no big deal.  I replaced the QD with another one and disattached it from the keg for tonight.

I'm thinking I had a bad QD - the top was screwed down tight.  Still, I'm curious what pressure they normally can take.

I couldn't find info after doing a google search.

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