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Messages - brewsumore

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentis BE-134
« on: July 04, 2017, 10:47:32 AM »
I have a sample from HomebrewCon.  Brewing a saison with it tomorrow.  FWIW, I get pretty good results from Belle Saison, too.  I am brewing it side-by-side with this yeast for this batch, 10 gallons split into 2 fermenters.  I will respond to this thread with info about how the 2 yeasts performed.

Cool!  I look forward to hearing your comments.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yippee!
« on: July 04, 2017, 10:17:50 AM »
Just got back from a trip to the "big city" (Missoula) and I bought a smack pack of WY2308 Munich with a born on date of June 7.  Twenty days ago.  I know this means nothing to you city slickers, but to a guy in the backwoods of Montana, this is the freshest I have seen in 27 years of brewing.

Also bought 16 lbs, of 6-row, and 6 lbs. of flaked maize.  I do believe 10 gallons of 1.048 OG CAP is getting brewed this holiday weekend.

Nice score Chumley.  Hey, as Missoula is my hometown (I live in Spokane now) I'm just curious at which LHBS you got your fresh yeast, and other ingredients.  Thanks.


Using a 1/2" autosiphon with racking tube to the bottom of the keg I can fill a purged keg with beer in the matter of a few minutes.  Seeing that the keg is completely full with co2 to start with I'm pretty confident that very little o2 is getting to the beer.  At least I'm the only one I have to satisfy and I'm ok with my method.  I like not having any star san residing in my keg - just beer.  Each to their own.

For IPA and pale ale, before racking finished beer from fermenter buckets into kegs via an auto-siphon, I just lower an open-ended sanitized gas line from a spare 5-lb co2 tank with gauge, down towards the bottom of the sanitized empty receiving keg and gently/slowly add co2 gas until it blows out a lighter (the long one used to light a BBQ grill) held above the keg opening.  That is, once co2 displaces all of the oxygen from the keg the outgoing co2 blows out the lighter.  Then I add a keg lid until I'm ready to rack in the beer.  co2 is heavier than o2 so the co2 stays in there during racking.

Then I add keg hops in a sanitized fine-mesh nylon hop bag, cinched and knotted closed, and tied into the hole in the welded tab on the underside of a keg lid.  I buy these manufactured - a bit spendy but most people only need one, a couple, or a few of them.

After the beer is racked into the keg, I lower the hops-filled bag (normally a 9" x 12" bag holding 3 oz pellet hops) that is tied off to the lid, and secure the keg lid.

Then I immediately purge the keg head space as follows: 1) attach co2 gas to "in" poppet via QD, 2) fill head space with co2 at ~12 psi, 3) turn off gas, 4) displace all gas/air in headspace via pressure release valve, 5) repeat for a total of 10 times, 6) begin to carbonate the beer in my kegerator.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: June 20, 2017, 02:28:57 PM »
Score!! Found a 2+ year old bottle of bottle conditioned Tripel (8.5 abv) behind a couple of bigger bottles in my beer fridge. Thought the batch was long gone. All in all, it's still excellent. Gotta like it.

I love it when that happens - probably subconsciously on purpose, right??  I "lost" a case of barleywine in my mother's basement for nearly a decade and still have some, that must be around 15 years old.  It originally was "forgotten" because at that time I didn't re-dose with yeast before bottling and it is still.  Nevertheless always intriguing to try a bottle and at around 11% ABV it's held up remarkably well (cool-cellared for the last 5 years or so).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fermentation: carboy or bucket?
« on: June 18, 2017, 01:39:21 PM »
I use buckets.  I gave up on those lids that have a rubber grommet - a true PITA to clean.  Just solid lids for me.  And I found that the replacement lids from Morebeer (no hole - I drill the hole) come on and off quite easily, and still seal well enough, although they are a bit pliable.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: June 16, 2017, 09:01:43 AM »
  All went pretty well and I got my volume and hit the target OG, but I should have started with 1 - 2 more gal of wort total.

yeah, I actually target an extra 1.5 gallons (13.5 vs. 12) to account for the losses to the hops in the kettle and dryhopping.  one of my biggest pet peeves is not being able to completely fill my kegs when packaging.

Yep.  Paul, usually, if I'm brewing with two kettles I brew two 10-gal (finished beer) batches, rather than splitting one mash/sparge into two kettles. So, I didn't think it through carefully enough and compensate for the doubled evaporation from two kettles while boiling two "half" batches.  I figured it out once I filled the kettles with wort, so to hit target volume I did a little dance of reducing boil time, doing a low-to-moderate boil rate, covering the kettles at least partially, and changing my hop additions timing slightly.  Thankfully, I had done a double pass of the grist through my 3-roller Monster Mill so my brewhouse efficiency was good.  Afterwards, re-calculating my recipes in Pro Mash, it appears that my IBUs are still very close to what was originally intended, and the wort hydro samples both tasted very good.  So I'm a happy camper. 

And so I wouldn't screw up, I brewed one "half" batch and then the other, and just kept the one waiting at +150F so no bacterial spoilage could begin.  It ended up being a 10-hour brew day, same amount of time it would have taken for 20 gallons of beer instead of 10.  But you live and you learn!

And thanks Jon - I researched hops for my Western Sunset IPA to balance between citrus and tropical with a  tad of dank.  We'll see how it goes.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: June 15, 2017, 10:01:36 PM »
Tuesday I collected 14 gal of wort designed for the AHA recipe for early version of Blind Pig, and split it between two kettles -- one for a 5-gal batch of Blind Pig clone, the other for a 5-gal batch of an IPA I came up with that has Azacca, Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic (late-loaded -- FWH, 10, 5, 0 and 30-min hop stand).  All went pretty well and I got my volume and hit the target OG, but I should have started with 1 - 2 more gal of wort total.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Moving to dry yeast exclusively
« on: May 09, 2017, 01:52:56 PM »
Didn't know the Mangrove stuff was dry...  For some reason I was turned off with the name and dismissed it/never looked it up until now. 

I haven't used any of the Mangrove stuff. I've heard and read several accounts here and from brewer friends of subpar attenuation on some of their strains. High FGs aren't a good selling point for me. I'm sure it's probably not across the board.

Yeah, I've heard the same.  There's a thread on another forum right now about poor attenuation and flocculation.

I've had poor attenuation with MJ M44 West Coast Ale 2 out of 3 times I used it -- IIRC 2-3 points higher than US-05 on a split batch from 10-gal, but made really good beer both times using their Burton Ale yeast.  I pretty much gave up on the M44, although it flocced better than US-05 for me.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Moving to dry yeast exclusively
« on: May 07, 2017, 02:47:12 PM »
For me in Spokane when ordering from MoreBeer, I've found it helps to buy four ice packs for two packs of liquid yeast, and more in summer, and via online delivery notification be sure I can get home within about 15 minutes from time of delivery on my porch.  Shipping up here and coming from warm California, in my experience we need thermal protection that only extra ice packs can provide...usually.  That's worked for me without having to pay overnight shipping.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: April 30, 2017, 09:04:50 PM »
I made a DIPA today with Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ingredients / Re: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
« on: April 30, 2017, 08:50:41 PM »
If it was me I'd ferment primary and let the beer tell me when it is fully fermented, typically at least 2 weeks for a BDS.  Then let it sit another week in primary for the yeast to clean up any remaining fermentables, ramped back down to around 64 - 66F.  Then, if kegging go to keg and purge of 02, after adding the oak (first steamed or soaked-in-preferred-liquor-or-Everclear) in a sanitized nylon bag that can be removed when at the right level of oak -- typically ~7 days for chips.  I prefer shavings/chips to reduce oaking time.  If you will be bottling, you could go to secondary FULL carboy after the 3 weeks mentioned above, including the oak, again recommending chips instead of stave since you'll want to keep the beer around cellar temp or at least <70F until the oak incorporates, and then get it bottled.

Just don't be petrified of including sulfate in your water. Use enough to dry the finish of your beer to the degree that you prefer. This can be especially true when brewing big beers that may not attenuate very well. Zero sulfate is rarely the proper recommendation.

Off topic, but why I also mash low (149F) when making a BDS.

Ingredients / Re: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
« on: April 30, 2017, 02:03:31 PM »
Agreed with all the above. No worries. Much more important here to hold fermentation temps down for the first few days, so that you don't end up with a fuselly banana bomb.  I'd try to hold 63F-ish for 3 or 4 days before letting temp raise up to 68-70F for the duration.

+1  Good luck with your BDS!  On basic principles, but also be aware that many of the Belgian ale yeasts can become very active and therefore generate krauesen and heat very early in the ferment if the yeast is pitched too warm.  The term "explosive" has been oft used to describe some Belgian ale yeasts.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: kolsch observations
« on: April 30, 2017, 11:52:59 AM »
My last kolsch used Hallertau Mittelfruh (60 min, 25 IBU) and K-97 Safale German Lager yeast, ramped from 60F to 63F, and I thought the beer was excellent.  Just posting to share my personal experience.

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