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Messages - brewsumore

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Kegging and Bottling / Maximum psi for ball lock liquid side QD
« on: July 19, 2015, 11:12:50 PM »
Anybody know what they're normally rated to withstand?  I have a pal visiting from out of state tomorrow and to hurry along the carbing of a Pliny the Elder clone, I was hoping to get it mostly force carbed at 40 psi (34F) over 48 hrs.  I attached the liquid side to a faucet (in my kegerator) to check progress occasionally. 

I went and checked it and there was a bit of beer foaming out the top of the QD.  Had to clean a few ounces of beer from the bottom of the kegerator but no big deal.  I replaced the QD with another one and disattached it from the keg for tonight.

I'm thinking I had a bad QD - the top was screwed down tight.  Still, I'm curious what pressure they normally can take.

I couldn't find info after doing a google search.

If you're adding salts for flavor (chloride, sulfate, sodium), target the concentration based on post-boil volume. If it's for mash pH control (calcium, magnesium, bicarbonate), use the mash volume.

Your logic is sound.

Yeah, so long as you're talking water volume for the mash and not the total mash volume (water + grist).  At least that's the way it is calculated with Bru'n Water.

It only seemed appropriate to brew an American Pale Ale… Fermented with the Liberty strain, of course. 8)

WY 1776?  Just kidding.  I just had a Liberty Ale on Thursday.  It's hard to beat a quality-crafted Cascade fresh hop ale! 

No brewing for me.  I did bottle the last of a keg of cider, and am dissembling / cleaning 7 kegs today.

Happy 4th!

Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer Question
« on: July 01, 2015, 01:15:42 PM »
Right now the fan I put inside my kegerator is wired to turn on and off with the compressor. Do you think one of these will still work well for me?

I don't have a fan in my kegerator and the EV-500 has been doing a great job for nine years now.

+1, but I keep two EVA-500s in mine to be extra condensation free.  Mine is a 7.2 cu ft freezer kegerator.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: July 01, 2015, 08:59:16 AM »

Is there a need to purge the keg prior to transferring? I just assumed doing this followed by an open keg as you transfer wouldn't do anything as oxygen would be re-introduced.

The primary source for oxygenating the beer in the receiving keg, if not purged, is due to splashing of the wort in the receiving keg, along with beer surface exposure to air.  That is why when transferring via auto-siphon you place the the hose end at the bottom of the keg - so that it is quickly buried under the level of beer so as to reduce splashing.

I rarely do it, but especially in certain circumstances purging the keg prior to racking into it is recommended, such as by Vinnie Cilurzo when racking Pliny the Elder into kegs and wanting to minimize oxegenation of the beer.  He explains it in:

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sanitizing tap
« on: June 26, 2015, 06:21:08 PM »
I thought plugs weren't for forward sealing faucets - well at least a few years ago when I checked.   ::)  Similar to narcout, I normally only sanitize my spouts before bottling off of the kegerator.  I use star san in a squirt bottle with RO water.  Occasionally I sanitize my lines and/or even remove and clean the entire faucet with BLC.

However, my kegerator is safe in the basement - no flies, etc.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging Keg
« on: June 26, 2015, 06:13:20 PM »
I've never bothered purging empty kegs prior to transferring before. In my illustrious past 3 or so batches of kegged beer, I've simply transferred over to the sanitized keg and will seal, add gas, and bleed off oxygen 4-5 times.

Is there a need to purge the keg prior to transferring? I just assumed doing this followed by an open keg as you transfer wouldn't do anything as oxygen would be re-introduced.

I do exactly what you do.

I do the same, but to feel extra safe I've gone to bigger co2 tanks and purging 7 - 8 times.  :>

Tomorrow I'm brewing my updated Pliny the Elder clone.  Think hops (and hop extract).  Think fun.  It's supposed to hit 102 - 104F tomorrow here in Spokane, so I'm going to start the brew day at 4 am (11 gal batch).

It's totally global warming adaptation, and relief.

Last weekend I brewed an updated version of my Karmeliet Tripel clone, and grist had both malted and unmalted barley, wheat and oats; 61% pilsen malt.  Also added some coriander and sweet orange peel.  It's coming along nicely.

had one of those sitting on the patio this weekend... absolutely fantastic beer.  i think i feel my first tripel batch coming on, thanks for the inspiration...

As a starting point for you research I recommend reading the info on Karmeliet in Brew Like a Monk.  If you don't own it, it's definitely worth buying.  PM me if you'd like to see my recipe.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Any thoughts on 5.2 pH stabilizer?
« on: June 23, 2015, 10:18:58 PM »
+1 to what Jon said.

Last weekend I brewed an updated version of my Karmeliet Tripel clone, and grist had both malted and unmalted barley, wheat and oats; 61% pilsen malt.  Also added some coriander and sweet orange peel.  It's coming along nicely.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Lid Leak
« on: May 25, 2015, 02:33:39 PM »
I use keg lube on every keg when filled, but a teeny tiny amount run around the lid o-ring between thumb and finger - just so the rubber glistens.  If the lid won't seal at ~15psi, then I add a little more, if necessary initially sealing the keg with high pressure.  Of course certain kegs among my collection are more problematic.

I use it a little more heavily to seal dip tube o-rings.

I normally keep the kegs at 20-30 psi for the first three days, after which reducing pressure normally doesn't cause the same leak I got at low pressure/low lube.

When washing the keg, after soaking in hot PBW or PLC upside down in a bucket, I try to remember to run a wet, soapy sponge or paper towel under the rim of the keg opening to wipe away any residue which is negligible.

I personally don't feel that keg lube when used very sparingly is much of an issue when cleaning kegs.  But when I run out (or maybe before then) I plan to buy CIP Film keg lube since it washes off more easily with hot water than LubriFilm keg lube.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Challenging brew days
« on: May 17, 2015, 10:17:19 AM »
Last Sunday on Mother's day I hurt my back. My mom being the sweet woman that she is offered me up a muscle relaxer. Her exact words were "I take them every day, they don't faze me a bit." Well, mom doesn't drink as much beer and whiskey as I do I guess because I was down all day Monday with what felt like sludge in my veins.

On Tuesday I was still feeling a good bit sluggish, especially my brain.  I brewed a 372 gallon batch of tripel. As I added the last sack of grain I realized it said "Best Wheat" not "Best Pils". I thought, oops. Grabbed a sack of wheat by accident. No big deal. Then, as I was trying to smooth out the grain bed I noticed how heavy and thick it was, unlike any grain bed I had even seen before. Then when I started to vorlauf I noticed how slow and cloudy the grant was. I went back and counted empty sacks - I had doughed in almost 75% wheat. Took me 4 hours to lauter. The weird thing is my brain remembers seeing wheat when I opened the sacks but my brain didn't tell me that I was screwing up.

 The day never got better, and even forgot to add my yeast nutrient and WF.

Keith, that's a sad turn of events.  I hope you are feeling better now.  What are you going to do with your batch of 75% wheat beer?  Will it be a mostly wheat tripel?

Mark, also sad for your bad luck.  I drive my MM 3-roller with a 1/2" DeWalt drill and will be paying closer attention to any stalls that could be related to pebbles!

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Empty Keg Storage
« on: May 12, 2015, 09:55:46 AM »
I keep a couple new keg lids, some extra pressure relief valves, lid feet caps, and extra o-rings on hand.  And when I have a problem lid it goes into the "Use as last resort" bag -- gets swapped out.  And when I find a problem (crease, nick, bend) along the rim of the keg opening, I have done my best to bend it back to the desired shape.  The theory is to remove all the defective parts within my inventory (around 22 kegs) so that when one is brought into use I don't have any that leak.

I don't think that I have any ball lock kegs that require a specific lid.  I do carefully seat the lids, sometimes having to reverse the direction the lid sits to get the best seal.  And spray star san when setting the lid under pressure to check for leaks.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Empty Keg Storage
« on: May 11, 2015, 07:58:52 PM »
I clean/sanitize/dry my kegs, and then store dry with the lid on (with painter tape labeled "clean/sanitized"), and quickly re-sanitize and drip dry before filling.  I normally add keg lube to post o-rings when still wet with sanitizer prior to drying/storing them, but wait to lube the lid o-ring until immediately prior to filling the keg with beer.  I don't feel the need to purge corny kegs of o2 prior to filling them (from the bottom with an auto-siphon), but immediately purge and then pressurize kegs as soon as filled.

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