Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast shipped warm.
« Last post by Phil_M on Today at 04:35:38 PM »
The other issue with using dry yeast is that the beers I prefer to brew aren't always possible to make with dry yeasts.

What do you brew?

Summer favorites that I don't think I can do with dry yeast are hefewiezen, (Wyeast 3068) Patersbier (Wyeast 3787) and belgian wits (Wyeast 3944)
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pedio for barrel aging
« Last post by brewinhard on Today at 04:17:01 PM »
The beers were put in the barrel at the end of April 30, 3015.

There has been little to no development in sourness since the beers were put in the barrel.

Man, that is one Futuristic Brew! 

As the beer ages in the barrel, micro-oxidation should occur over time allowing more acetic character to be created which could enhance the sourness in a positive way.  So, maybe time will benefit you?

You could go through with the pedio pitch, but by the time it starts to get going the gravity might be worked down even further by the other micro-organisms not leaving much in the way of residual sugars for the pedio to work on.  Just a thought.

 If it were me, I would probably just give it more time and see what happens.  I bet it will continue to sour more, just slowly.  You could also try adding some boiled maltodextrin to the barrel along with your pedio pitch which only bacteria and brett can consume which could lead to additional sourness down the road. 
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wild Yeast Revisited
« Last post by brewinhard on Today at 04:06:13 PM »
+1 to looking like a classic yeast fermentation.  Looks like when a krausen starts falling back into the beer. 
The Pub / Re: Simplified BJCP Score Sheet
« Last post by klickitat jim on Today at 03:16:42 PM »
I'm not a total fan of the check list but in big events they really are necessary for time reasons. Though that probably depends on the judge. Given that the check list is pretty abriviated, I think I could write out a few one or two word descriptors just as quickly as I can read through the check list to pick the right ones.

I'd like to see judges get back to describing the bottle. When you enter a big dark malty beer and the judge dings it for being too pale, too hoppy, and too sour... it would help if they described the bottle.  If yours were brown long necks with black caps, but they wrote green caps, it might explain the issue.
I think that a lot of whole leaf hops we get as homebrewers are not stored well and are starting to oxidize. 

That's why I try to purchase my hops as close to the original source and as close to the harvest date as possible. 
Is there any info anywhere on what concentration of O2 really matters? I've been purging an empty keg 3 or 4 times, and have noticed no oxidation, even for beers that are over a year old in the bottle.
One of the first signs of oxidation is that hop aroma fades. Oxidation takes on many forms, it is not always cardboard. Active yeast can scavenge some O2 too. The pros take lengths to minimize the Total Packaged O2.

Sean might have insights from the pro perspective. Pro Brewers have DO meters for a reason, those aren't sheep.
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast shipped warm.
« Last post by S. cerevisiae on Today at 03:07:40 PM »
When making a starter with older yeast, I've read the wort gravity should be lower than my normal 1.040.  Is this true?

Technically, yes, the cells in an older culture benefit from lower osmotic pressure.  However, there is a tradeoff in that a lower gravity starter has less carbon available for growth; therefore, starting with a lower gravity often means stepping the starter.   A four month old White Labs culture is not that old in the grand scheme of things; therefore, I would not sweat it.   
I should mention that purging techniques are pretty contentious over on ProBrewer. There's a continent that thinks that it requires less CO2 to fill from the bottom while constantly bleeding the tank from the top via a spunding valve or restricted butterfly.

I've only checked product DO levels, but it would certainly be an interesting thing to test with a sniffer.
There are also links out there that talk about continuous purges of ducts and piping. Haven't gotten into that.
Is there any info anywhere on what concentration of O2 really matters? I've been purging an empty keg 3 or 4 times, and have noticed no oxidation, even for beers that are over a year old in the bottle.
My weekend starts Tuesday, but I did get my lacto starters going. It looks like I'm spending the next few months brewing my way through the new American Wild category. Bottling bret saisons tuesday, brewing mixed fermentations Wednesday. The fruits will be brewed mid august. Woo hoo
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10