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61
Equipment and Software / Re: Help a Technical Dummy Understand His Temp Controller
« Last post by a10t2 on July 03, 2015, 10:05:53 AM »
No experience, but the way it's worded seems straightforward.

r1 and r2 are a dummy-check to keep your set point reasonable. As long as r1 < sp < r2, you're good. If you need to move sp outside that range you'll need to adjust.

c2 and c3 are the on/off times for the failure mode where the probe is disconnected or broken. 5 min on, 5 min off isn't going to be great for a compressor, and since you're running a freezer would probably result in it freezing. I'd change c3 to 45 min, since that's what seems to be working for you.

c4 is the minimum time the compressor will stay on. I don't see any reason to increase it.

c5 is the minimum time between compressor cycles. As above, 10 min is pretty short but it seems unlikely you'll ever cycle it that much.
62
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: dryhopping at the end of primary fermentation
« Last post by a10t2 on July 03, 2015, 09:55:06 AM »
I would consider that there's a risk of oxidation by dry hopping late, except I've never experienced it!  I would guess that I've dry hopped 200-250 batches and never had an oxidized beer from the dry hops.  If it doesn't happen, I'm not going to worry about it.

Risks can be mitigated, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

I'm not going to worry about oxidizing a beer by dumping in some hop pellets and resealing the fermenter, but I'm also not going to toss the pellets in one at a time from across the room. ;)
63
Equipment and Software / 1/6 Bbl kegs for homebrewing
« Last post by yso191 on July 03, 2015, 09:45:37 AM »
A friend of mine here in Yakima swears by commercial 1/6 barrel Sankey kegs.  He says they are easy to clean and don't have the sealing problems that corny kegs do.  And they are roughly the same cost.  So I'm curious.  I'd love to simplify the kegging process as well as get rid of the 'is it going to stay sealed' issues.

Does anyone agree with my friend?  If so, what is the best way to get the kegs clean, purged with CO2 and refilled?
64
Nobody has experience with this controller?

I've been playing around with it for a few days and with my current settings the compressor kicks on about every 45 to 50 minutes and runs for about 2 or 3 minutes. Does that seem reasonable for compressor life? I only have 1 keg in there at the moment, it may run less when it's full.



These are the setting I'm using at the moment, and they are keeping a glass of water about 40 0F. I should probably adjust the settings to get a little warmer.

SP = Set Point = 42
r0 = Differential or hysteresis = 2
r1 = Lower value for SP = 40
R2 = Upper value for SP = 44
c0 = Minimum stopping time of load = 10
c2 = ON time of fault cycle, when ambient probe is broken = 5
c3 = OFF time of fault cycle, when ambient probe is broken = 5
c4 = Minimum time since compressor start-up until the next stop = 0
c5 = Minimum time since the compressor start-up until the next start-up = 10


I still have no idea what c2 and c3 are supposed to be doing.
65
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation problems/inconsistencies?
« Last post by curtism1234 on July 03, 2015, 09:35:50 AM »
Pryoffs mostly from the local homebrew store. I'm just too flat lazy to remove labels ::)
66
I would consider that there's a risk of oxidation by dry hopping late, except I've never experienced it!  I would guess that I've dry hopped 200-250 batches and never had an oxidized beer from the dry hops.  If it doesn't happen, I'm not going to worry about it.

+1.  As easily as hop aromas can oxidize and disappear, I wouldn't do it if I felt it diminished the beer.
67
Equipment and Software / Re: Orbital Shaker
« Last post by denny on July 03, 2015, 09:07:14 AM »
Well, much like hot side aeration, I'm not going to worry about something I've never actually experienced.  :D

Finally!  Someone with some common sense!
68
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: dryhopping at the end of primary fermentation
« Last post by denny on July 03, 2015, 09:05:38 AM »
Then I guess I'm not going to apply the Bryndilson method. I don't see convincing arguments.

I think it's absolutely the way to go provided you can cap the fermenter and rouse the yeast. If you aren't fermenting in a corny or conical, you have to compromise, either by dry-hopping early and risking the loss of some aroma, or by dry-hopping late and risking some oxidation.

I would consider that there's a risk of oxidation by dry hopping late, except I've never experienced it!  I would guess that I've dry hopped 200-250 batches and never had an oxidized beer from the dry hops.  If it doesn't happen, I'm not going to worry about it.
69
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Silicone
« Last post by denny on July 03, 2015, 09:03:08 AM »
If you are using a cooler, I wonder if the tun itself is food grade or meant to be utilized in the manner you intend? Probably not.

I'll go out on a limb and say go ahead and use the GE product.

Euge brings up a good point about the tun material. In my case, I found a cooler that was BPA free and was as close to food grade as possible. Check the data sheets for the silicone you chose. Some are construction only and are not even under water rated.

I have yet to see a cooler that isn't BPA free.  Have you seen one that used BPA?  AFAIK, coolers are made of HDPE, which is food safe.
70
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Silicone
« Last post by denny on July 03, 2015, 09:02:08 AM »
If you are using a cooler, I wonder if the tun itself is food grade or meant to be utilized in the manner you intend? Probably not.

I'll go out on a limb and say go ahead and use the GE product.

Meant to be utilized that way?  Probably not.  Safe to use?  99.99% OK.
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