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91
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 oz of hops
« Last post by goschman on June 23, 2016, 05:04:11 PM »
Guess I misread, Chris - so you're wanting to skip the hop stand? Great flavor and little to no bitterness from a 170F hop stand. It'll be good regardless.

Well I am kind of back to experimenting and hoping to save a bit of time. My current APA is 2 oz at 20 min, 2 oz at 5 min and 1.5 oz dry hop. Some versions have turned out well depending on hop selection. Before I go back to hop stands I want to try keeping it simple and quick. I am keeping the amount of hops the same except trying a traditional bittering charge with magnum or bravo for 50 IBU.
92
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 oz of hops
« Last post by HoosierBrew on June 23, 2016, 04:57:30 PM »
Guess I misread, Chris - so you're wanting to skip the hop stand? Great flavor and little to no bitterness from a 170F hop stand. It'll be good regardless.
93
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 oz of hops
« Last post by goschman on June 23, 2016, 04:55:03 PM »
Got a hoppy APA coming up soon. Planning to get all of my IBUs from bittering addition and will be using 5-6 oz split between flame out (no hop stand) and dry hop. My question is should I just use all as dry hops or split between dry hop and flame out? Preferences?


Assuming you use 6 oz to split between stand and dry, I'd add 4 oz to the stand and dry hop 2 oz. I love hoppy APAs !  I normally stand 5 oz and dry hop 2.5 - 3 oz (5.5 gallon batch) for hoppy APA, but you'll make a good beer.

So if I am just doing a standard flameout addition with no stand would you still recommend the same? I edited my original post to remove the 'hoppy' designation because it probably isn't enough to deserve that name
94
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 oz of hops
« Last post by HoosierBrew on June 23, 2016, 04:49:12 PM »
Got a hoppy APA coming up soon. Planning to get all of my IBUs from bittering addition and will be using 5-6 oz split between flame out (no hop stand) and dry hop. My question is should I just use all as dry hops or split between dry hop and flame out? Preferences?


Assuming you use 6 oz to split between stand and dry, I'd add 4 oz to the stand and dry hop 2 oz. I love hoppy APAs !  I normally stand 5 oz and dry hop 2.5 - 3 oz (5.5 gallon batch) for hoppy APA, but you'll make a good beer.
95
General Homebrew Discussion / 6 oz of hops
« Last post by goschman on June 23, 2016, 04:43:40 PM »
Got an APA coming up soon. Planning to get all of my IBUs from bittering addition and will be using 5-6 oz split between flame out (no hop stand) and dry hop. My question is should I just use all as dry hops or split between dry hop and flame out? Preferences?
96
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Stirring the fermenter
« Last post by drgmg on June 23, 2016, 03:31:55 PM »
The thing is, you never really know when the yeast are done with their growth phase. I think you'd run a much bigger chance of oxidation by continuous aeration rather than a one-time shot of oxygen. For a big beer, I'd rather hit it with a 2nd dose of oxygen about 18-30 hours after pitching. I've had good results up to 1.142 O.G. with this.

How do you do this? I'll be making a Dark Lord clone and its kinda big.
97
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO 2 Questions
« Last post by Joe Sr. on June 23, 2016, 03:20:42 PM »
I turn off the CO2 in case I have a leak.    I believe that rising stem valves like those used on gas tanks will leak unless fully open or fully closed.

I do the same and have the same understanding regarding the valve.  I don't know that they "will" leak, but it's more likely.

I would go ahead and get a 20lb or 15lb tank.  Chances are it costs the same per fill as the 5lb.  At least it does over by here.
Without seeing the inside, is it possible that there are seals that don't engage if not fully open? There is never a reason to open part way as it will not control the pressure.

My MoreBeer manifold leaks if I don't have the valve partly closed (or part open for the optimists). I noticed by mistake when I knocked one and it started hissing.

I assume it works like a gate valve or a faucet valve.  When full open or full closed the washers are compressed and seal better.  The stem goes through the washer, so without compression you could lose gas.  Pretty much every plumbing shut-off valve I have dealt with will drip from the stem in a part-open or part-closed scenario.  Full-open/closed and there are no leaks.

At least that's my layman's description...
98
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Anyone have some 3726 I can have?
« Last post by HoosierBrew on June 23, 2016, 03:12:32 PM »
I'm sure they would love to offer more year round, but they need to draw the line somewhere. My LHBS always have packs of past date random strains that nobody bought. I'm sure part of the fault is with the LHBS, what sells just sells and what doesn't sits.

One lhbs employee was telling me that often times they order less popular strains to make minimums, bundled shopping or hit price tiers. Not sure how true that is, just what one guy told me.



I get all that. I just hate to see arguably better strains sit on the shelf. I'm confident it would do really well, especially with brewers who don't want to tackle 3724 but want to try something other than 3711. Oh well, all good.
99
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO 2 Questions
« Last post by Stevie on June 23, 2016, 02:55:07 PM »
I turn off the CO2 in case I have a leak.    I believe that rising stem valves like those used on gas tanks will leak unless fully open or fully closed.

I do the same and have the same understanding regarding the valve.  I don't know that they "will" leak, but it's more likely.

I would go ahead and get a 20lb or 15lb tank.  Chances are it costs the same per fill as the 5lb.  At least it does over by here.
Without seeing the inside, is it possible that there are seals that don't engage if not fully open? There is never a reason to open part way as it will not control the pressure.

My MoreBeer manifold leaks if I don't have the valve partly closed (or part open for the optimists). I noticed by mistake when I knocked one and it started hissing.
100
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO 2 Questions
« Last post by Joe Sr. on June 23, 2016, 02:47:49 PM »
I turn off the CO2 in case I have a leak.    I believe that rising stem valves like those used on gas tanks will leak unless fully open or fully closed.

I do the same and have the same understanding regarding the valve.  I don't know that they "will" leak, but it's more likely.

I would go ahead and get a 20lb or 15lb tank.  Chances are it costs the same per fill as the 5lb.  At least it does over by here.
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