[phillamb168]

I know some of you guys filter. 5 micron is ok, or not fine enough? This is for clarity - getting rid of hop particulate, break material that got picked up, etc. I've seen a few systems that use a standard whole-house filter with a sediment cartridge. This certainly seems way cheaper than the SS plates that I've seen, and the polypropylene is AFAIK the same material as is used with plastic bucket fermenters, so backflushing with PBW/StarSan is doable. Has anybody tried this?

[majorvices]

I have never heard anything positive about the canister filters. Plate filters can be a PITA. I have totally eschewed filtering. I have single walled bright tanks that are held around 36-38 degrees. I use a product called Biofine Clear A3 (it's vegan, if that means anything to you) and add it to the bright tanks after a yeast dump. the BFCA3 drops the beer brilliantly clear, so much so that I have had to back way off on my IPA because it was stripping out all the hop flavor and aroma.

I know Thirsty Monk filters, but I would recommend trying to avoid it if at all possible.

[bo]

I could be wrong, but I think 5 micron will strip out the yeast, as well.

[phillamb168]

I could be wrong, but I think 5 micron will strip out the yeast, as well.

It's ok, I force carb.. I just don't want to strip out all the flavor.

[phillamb168]

I have never heard anything positive about the canister filters. Plate filters can be a PITA. I have totally eschewed filtering. I have single walled bright tanks that are held around 36-38 degrees. I use a product called Biofine Clear A3 (it's vegan, if that means anything to you) and add it to the bright tanks after a yeast dump. the BFCA3 drops the beer brilliantly clear, so much so that I have had to back way off on my IPA because it was stripping out all the hop flavor and aroma.

I know Thirsty Monk filters, but I would recommend trying to avoid it if at all possible.

How much BFCA3 do you use per barrel for the IPA?

[majorvices]

around 40 ml.

[denny]

Having the good fortune to have tried a few of Keith's beers, I can say that whatever method he's using works!  They were bright and clear as well as absolutely delicious!

[majorvices]

Having the good fortune to have tried a few of Keith's beers, I can say that whatever method he's using works!  They were bright and clear as well as absolutely delicious!

Gonna be hard to get a better endorsement than that! 

[denny]

Having the good fortune to have tried a few of Keith's beers, I can say that whatever method he's using works!  They were bright and clear as well as absolutely delicious!

Gonna be hard to get a better endorsement than that! 

I'll be waiting for the check.....

[majorvices]

Better take a deep breath. 

[a10t2]

I have never heard anything positive about the canister filters. Plate filters can be a PITA. I have totally eschewed filtering. I have single walled bright tanks that are held around 36-38 degrees. I use a product called Biofine Clear A3 (it's vegan, if that means anything to you) and add it to the bright tanks after a yeast dump.

I'll second all of this advice. I used the Biofine in the fermenter after cold-crashing and dumping yeast and that also works very very well. I didn't have standpipes in the bright tanks, so dropping sediment in the brights would have been a Bad Thing.

[Thirsty_Monk]

I did use both 2.5" X 10" and 5"X20 canister filters.
First, let me tell you, filtering sucks.
Second if you filter is is better to filter non carbonated beer.
If you filter carbonated beer you need to create counter pressure as you would not knock off the carbonation.

5 micron is very course filtering.
You need to use 1 micron to filter the yeast off.

After I got my Bright Tanks I wanted to use findings to avoid filtering.
My bright tanks are at 33F.
I started to use Biofine clear (the same as majorvices).
First time I used it on dark beer (about 18 SRM).
Beer is clear now and I am as happy as I can be that I do not have to filter.
The true test will be my Bohemian Pilsner.
I transferred Pilsner to the bright tank yesterday and add Biofine clear today.
I used 50 ml per BBL.

You want to flock as much yeast as possible in the fermenter.
So to my opinion Cold crashing in the fermenter is desirable.

[joshb]

I have never heard anything positive about the canister filters. Plate filters can be a PITA. I have totally eschewed filtering. I have single walled bright tanks that are held around 36-38 degrees. I use a product called Biofine Clear A3 (it's vegan, if that means anything to you) and add it to the bright tanks after a yeast dump. the BFCA3 drops the beer brilliantly clear, so much so that I have had to back way off on my IPA because it was stripping out all the hop flavor and aroma.

I know Thirsty Monk filters, but I would recommend trying to avoid it if at all possible.

At what concentration are you adding the BioFine?  The recommended?  More or less?  Also, how big are your brights and how long are you waiting before packaging?

[Thirsty_Monk]

About dozing. Read post above.
I wait about week before I start packaging.

[jmcamerlengo]

Question...are bright tanks necessary? If I cold crashed and biofined the primary tank then kegged from there, would that be acceptable as well?

My plan is to eventually open a brewpub and I am costing as much as I can. I plan to do 3 BBL batches and only serve from the pub, no back door distribution.  On another note, can you server directly from the bright tanks as opposed to kegging?