[darvyle]

Everyone,

I'm looking to try partigyle style brewing.  What i was thinking about was making a 5 gallon barley wine and then a 10 gallon session beer or ale.  I wanted to know how i should calculate efficiencies and OG of both brews before hand so i know how much grain to buy.  Anyone have a good book i should purchase or online resource i should know about that would help?

Thank you,

[denny]

Here's a good one...

http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.2/mosher.html

[morticaixavier]

that's what I use. and I generally get fairly good efficiency, or I should say by efficiency is usually around what it is for a 'normal' batch.

[darvyle]

Thanks guys, Giving it a quick scan it looks exactly what I was looking for.  I'll give it a read tonight.

[darvyle]

Ok I read the resource and doing some planning, an excellent article on planing out gravity.  One thing i'm missing is the re-use of Hops.  My plan was to make a big IPA or Barley wine then a small with a similar hop profile.   How can i calculate my IBUs with my left over hops? 

[dbeechum]

You don't typically re-use hops. Each batch is tpyically run as a separate boil with it's own charges.

[morticaixavier]

I usually build out three separate recipes in beer smith, first for the whole mash, batch size sum of first and second runnings beers, grist, hops etc. sum of whole batch (although this recipe is mostly for gravity and color calculations). Then I build out one recipe for the big beer and calc the hopping schedule for that and one for the small beer and use that to calc hopping for that. I don't re-use the hops though.

I have heard of people reusing dry hops later as a bittering charge but that's not really the same thing.

[darvyle]

In the words of Homer Simpson "DOH!".  Thinking about it more using new hops would keep that part simple but i was hoping to use this style in helping me a bit in saving some $.  I'm always looking at driving down the costs of brewing.  I'll try it anyway, sounds like a fun process to experiment with.

[tom]

If you batch sparge, start testing the gravity of each running to help you plan a no-sparge/parti-gyle batch.  If you don't, check out Kai's info here:  http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparge_and_Party_Gyle_Simulator
My 2nd runnings beer is generally the same volume as the first and half the gravity of the first.  If you have a 2nd boil kettle you can have the 2nd runnings beer boiling within 15 minutes of the first.

[darvyle]

Tom, great idea the only problem I have with your idea is that i don't have a second chiller.  I'd prefer to have ~30 minutes between each just to ensure i have enough time to chill the beer.

[a10t2]

Just in case it isn't clear, Mosher's tables are for fly sparging and Kai's are for batch sparging.

Tom, great idea the only problem I have with your idea is that i don't have a second chiller.  I'd prefer to have ~30 minutes between each just to ensure i have enough time to chill the beer.

In that case, just sparge with hot (>185°F, 85°C) water so that you're doing a mashout. The wort can then sit in the tun as long as needed.

[morticaixavier]

Just in case it isn't clear, Mosher's tables are for fly sparging and Kai's are for batch sparging.

that's good to know, I have been using the mosher tables and they work okay but I will take a look at Kai's calculator.