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Author Topic: Building heat sticks  (Read 7266 times)

Offline roguenationpatriot

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Building heat sticks
« on: January 19, 2012, 08:53:34 am »
I'm planning on building some heat stick to allow me to brew in my basement. I found this link and it seems to be a very simple construction.  Does any one have any insight or advice on making these??

http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick

« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 09:03:12 am by roguenationpatriot »
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Offline Slowbrew

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Re: Building heat sticks
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2012, 10:21:04 am »
The instructions look good to me.

One thing to note about his comments about using nail polish remover to thin the JB Weld.  Most nail polish removers now days are not Acetone based anymore.  I have 3 daughters and a SWMBO and made mistake of making the same comment once.  Check the label before yo assume its acetone.

Paul
Where the heck are we going?  And what's with this hand basket?

Offline djt17

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Re: Building heat sticks
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2012, 10:50:51 am »
I tried the Acetone method; but in order to get the J-B Weld to pour I had to add more than the recommended amount. After 3 days of curing I tested the heatstick, it kept tripping the GFCI. I then cut the stick open, the J-B Weld in the center was still soft. I then used this method to seal the electrical connections --> http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-awesome-142803/index28.html#post1839989 except I used heavy tape to contain the j-b while it cured. After if was finished curing I sealed the element to the drain pipe with a minimal amount of j-b weld. After several batches it is still working great.

Offline euge

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Re: Building heat sticks
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2012, 10:57:38 am »
I built mine with the Cedar Creek instructions over four years ago. There isn't any need for the JB weld or any type of sealant. I used a gasket (washer) and another slip joint nut instead. The gasket was in the same section as the other plumbing parts at Lowes.

Slip joint nut model 916DK
Sink strainer washer model 8556OK

If it does happen to leak then it stops working via the GFCI. Then it's easy to take it apart and dry the element in the oven for a few minutes until it works again.
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Offline tom

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Re: Building heat sticks
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2012, 11:00:53 am »
My homemade heatsticks failed.
These commercial "bucket heaters" work well and you can find them for ~ $30 at your local tack shop.
http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-742G-Bucket-Heater/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326995951&sr=8-1
Brew on

Offline roguenationpatriot

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Re: Building heat sticks
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2012, 12:32:26 pm »
My homemade heatsticks failed.
These commercial "bucket heaters" work well and you can find them for ~ $30 at your local tack shop.
http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-742G-Bucket-Heater/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326995951&sr=8-1

Can you get away with just having one of these, or would two necessary to get a solid boil?
Be sure to check out my Blog and website at
http://homebrewblog.webs.com/
http://nickfilipow.blogspot.com/

On Tap
HomeBrews
Oaked Barrel Aged Russian Imp. Stout
English Mild
Welsh's Juice Concentrate Wine
Infused Garlic Ginger Vodka
Infused Vanillia Coffee Bean Vodka

Commercial Favorites
Weasel Boy Russian Imperial Stout
21st Amendment Back In Black
Dogfish Head 90 Min IPA
Troeg's Dreamweaver