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Author Topic: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water  (Read 164 times)

Offline John M

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AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« on: March 27, 2024, 04:20:43 pm »
Hey guys, as posted in another thread, I scored a great deal on an AIO system. Been a BIAB for years, so just need a little help adapting to the AIO system.

What is the recommended mill gap is for brewing in them?

Should I use rice hulls?

How do you figure your sparge water? I haven't played with Brewfather yet (for AIO recipes), but I'm guessing it figures it for you?

Any other tips also welcome! Cheers
Don't judge a beer by it's cover.

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Favorite Styles- German Lagers & Ales, Belgians of all kinds, Adjunct Stouts, Barleywines/Old Ales

Offline erockrph

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Re: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« Reply #1 on: Today at 12:07:57 am »
When I switched from BIAB to an Anvil Foundry, I kept my mill settings the same. I ended up with more grain material getting through the perforations in the grain pipe than I liked, so I started using my BIAB bag in the malt pipe as a liner. Problem solved.

I know you can sparge in an AIO if you really want to, but I never have. There's no need, at least for my batch sizes in my system.
Eric B.

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Offline Kevin

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Re: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« Reply #2 on: Today at 08:39:03 am »
First off most, if not all all-in-one systems are BIAB. They may be brew in a Basket instead of brew in a Bag but it's the same thing... mash and boil in one vessel.

Determining your best mill gap would be the same process as for any other system. Set the roller mills as small as you dare and if it's too much then open them up a bit.

You should only need rice hulls if you mill to finely or use an ingredient known to be thick or gummy.

For sparge you can go full volume with no sparge which is what I  do with both my Anvil Foundry and SS Brewtech SVBS... or fill the vessel with all the water, heat to strike temp, and then reserve as much as you want to sparge with.

I have found that these tips work well with the Anvil Foundry:
1. The water between the malt pipe and the kettle does not get pulled into the recirculation flow if using the recirculation kit. This results in quite a bit of water not coming into contact with the grain so when you lift the mash basket it's like pouring plain water into your mash... the efficiency takes a hit. To combat this just lift the basket 2 to 3 times during the mash.
2. Ditch the malt pipe and use a bag. This will do two things for you... help eliminate that efficiency hit mentioned above and allow you to use a larger grain bill.
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Offline denny

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Re: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« Reply #3 on: Today at 09:01:14 am »
Hey guys, as posted in another thread, I scored a great deal on an AIO system. Been a BIAB for years, so just need a little help adapting to the AIO system.

What is the recommended mill gap is for brewing in them?

Should I use rice hulls?

How do you figure your sparge water? I haven't played with Brewfather yet (for AIO recipes), but I'm guessing it figures it for you?

Any other tips also welcome! Cheers

Same mill gap as with my cooler or other systems. As fine as my mill will go.

I use the water amounts given in the Grainfather app.

I have never needed hulls on any system
Life begins at 60.....1.060, that is!

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Offline ynotbrusum

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Re: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« Reply #4 on: Today at 10:12:25 am »
I use a mill gap of .040, batch sparge volume like I would for a 3 vessel system and use a bag with my Anvil Foundry instead of the malt pipe.  Great results with efficiency in the high 70’s to low 80’s.  I mash 90’ but boil only 30’.
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Offline John M

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Re: AIO Brewing: Mill Gap, Rice Hulls, and Sparge Water
« Reply #5 on: Today at 12:37:22 pm »
Thanks guys. Yeah, I realize it is a similar concept as BIAB, and can be identical. If not using the bag, you're relying on a false bottom, which is not as fine as a bag. That's why I wasn't sure about mill gap. My mill is currently set up at .030, and always thought you needed to be around .040 for lautering and sparging.

I like the idea of heating all the water, and reserving your sparge water. 

I got the 65L unit, so I'll be doing larger batches, as well as high gravity batches, so I'm looking forward to sparging. I never messed with sparging while brewing BIAB, as it was just a mess. And I kinda like the idea of not having to squeeze the dickens out of a bag either.

I believe the Gen 4 Brewzilla malt pipe has perforations on the side now also, so the recirculation issue outside of the malt pipe shouldn't be an issue (hopefully).
Don't judge a beer by it's cover.

BJCP "Recognized" - Aspiring to Certified
Ohio Valley Homebrewers Association
Favorite Styles- German Lagers & Ales, Belgians of all kinds, Adjunct Stouts, Barleywines/Old Ales