Author Topic: Yet another Brutus-10 build!  (Read 10564 times)

ohiobrewman

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Re: Yet another Brutus-10 build!
« Reply #15 on: January 24, 2012, 01:18:33 PM »
That will work.
We have a 4 Door Sonata, So that may work.

If not, I will just borrow my Cousins Durango.
Were only talking Macedonia!!!  Small world eh? 
Hell yeah!!! I'm only about 10 miles if that from Olde-Eight :)

That was the Winking Lizard I was thinking about.
There used to be an awesome Chinese buffet up there as well...LOL

Years ago I actually met Charlie P there at Leeners back in the day!!!  haha


Offline jmcamerlengo

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Re: Yet another Brutus-10 build!
« Reply #16 on: January 24, 2012, 01:51:15 PM »
wow it is a small world!

Well let me know whatever you want to do. The brew stand is out my uncle's house and Im there every weekend, so let me know the weekend before you want to meet up and Ill load it up that weekend and meet you whatever day you want!
Jason
-Head Brewer, Brewtus Brewers in the Shenango Valley. Hopefully opening a brewpub/nano brewery in the next couple years.

ohiobrewman

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Re: Yet another Brutus-10 build!
« Reply #17 on: January 24, 2012, 02:22:26 PM »
Sounds good Brother :)

Offline ukolowiczd

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Re: Yet another Brutus-10 build!
« Reply #18 on: January 24, 2012, 02:55:29 PM »
awesome! quick question: those copper colored 4inch tubes sticking out of the mash tun and HLT - are those electric heating elements? Is that how you keep heating your mash and HLT?If so what wattage? 1500? 4000? (I've been talking about this on another thread and this is a perfect example - I think).

I believe you're referring to the RTD tees.  There is an RTD(temperature probe) inside of those copper tees, which are connected to camlocks.  I re-circ the mash and HLT through the out ball valves, which the tee snaps onto easily with the cam lock, I can then attach the hose to the bottom of the tee so Im measuring the outflow temp of the wort and sparge water.  Those probes are hooked into my PID control box. When the burner is set to "auto" position the RTD tells the PID controller on the control box to fire the burner or shut it off based on the temp I need.

Ok so the temp controllers switch on the burners to heat up the mash rather than an electric element. Is the burner set to a low position - i.e. is scorching not an issue? Also doesn't that just heat the bottom of the mash? What about the middle and top parts? Total newbie at this stuff so if these are annoying questions, you can just ignore.

Offline jmcamerlengo

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Re: Yet another Brutus-10 build!
« Reply #19 on: January 25, 2012, 10:47:53 AM »
awesome! quick question: those copper colored 4inch tubes sticking out of the mash tun and HLT - are those electric heating elements? Is that how you keep heating your mash and HLT?If so what wattage? 1500? 4000? (I've been talking about this on another thread and this is a perfect example - I think).

I believe you're referring to the RTD tees.  There is an RTD(temperature probe) inside of those copper tees, which are connected to camlocks.  I re-circ the mash and HLT through the out ball valves, which the tee snaps onto easily with the cam lock, I can then attach the hose to the bottom of the tee so Im measuring the outflow temp of the wort and sparge water.  Those probes are hooked into my PID control box. When the burner is set to "auto" position the RTD tells the PID controller on the control box to fire the burner or shut it off based on the temp I need.

Ok so the temp controllers switch on the burners to heat up the mash rather than an electric element. Is the burner set to a low position - i.e. is scorching not an issue? Also doesn't that just heat the bottom of the mash? What about the middle and top parts? Total newbie at this stuff so if these are annoying questions, you can just ignore.

Not at all! Please ask away.  I have the whole system running on low pressure propane.  I did mount my burner for the mash a little bit "lower" or further away from the bottom of the MLT kettle than I do the HLT or BK.  I have had no scorching issues whatsoever!  Even when I ramp to mashout temps or do step mashing and have to raise the temp 20 some degrees. 

I keep a mounted thermometer right around the center of my mash(blichmann brewmometer) just as a sanity check.  However I have found my PID temp and mounted thermometer temp in the middle of the mash(I also hand check the top of the mash) all are very close and accurate!  The only time this really doesnt hold true is when I am ramping up temps. I constantly stir the mash while ramping up temps so it remains consistent.  If you dont stir the bottom RTD reading will be higher than the top initially but eventually will even out.  I am constantly recirculating that mash through a march pump so the top and middle heat up to the same temp as the bottom very accurately.  During the actual mash I stir it every 15 minutes or so usually.
Jason
-Head Brewer, Brewtus Brewers in the Shenango Valley. Hopefully opening a brewpub/nano brewery in the next couple years.