[morticaixavier]

Fining or filtering just speeds up the process.

 there are things we can do to expedite the process.

That's what I'm looking to do. 
I'm brewing all grain, my mash temps depend on my brew but they are in line with normal temps (149-155 depending).  I monitor my pH with a hand-held pH meter that is calibrated fairly frequently and I try to mash at about pH 5.4.  I cool with an immersion chiller and I think my hot/cold break is ok.
In short, my beer will clear just fine with time and usually the last glass is crystal clear but I want to get the rest of the keg clearer.  I fine with gelatin dissolved in water and added to cold beer (fridge temp or colder).  I just find that although it helps, it isn't as clear as I'd like. 

Is there any reason to fine a second time with the same fining? 

Mostly this applies to beer I want to clear quickly to take somewhere or enter into competition.

I think someone already mentioned polyclar which, if I remember correctly, works for haze particles that gelatin can't handle. I also think that if you keep the beer really cold for a good long time that will make the gelatin work better because the chill haze particles get bigger.

[a10t2]

In short, my beer will clear just fine with time and usually the last glass is crystal clear but I want to get the rest of the keg clearer.

Are you cold-crashing? By which I mean taking the beer from fermentation temp to near-freezing in as little time as possible.

[The Professor]

In short, my beer will clear just fine with time and usually the last glass is crystal clear but I want to get the rest of the keg clearer.

Are you cold-crashing? By which I mean taking the beer from fermentation temp to near-freezing in as little time as possible.

That's the real key.  Get it to as close to freezing as possible without actually freezing it.  Then after a few days (giving the chill haze a chance to form), fine it with gelatin.  This is what I do routinely, even though I later raise to a more palatable serving temperature.

I've never had a brew that didn't drop bright within a day or two of adding gelatin finings to the near frozen brews....not even massively hopped ones, and regardless of my yeast choice for the fermentation.
Clearfine is great for this...but the inexpensive Knox Unflavored Gelatin from your local supermarket shelf works almost as well (it just takes an extra day or so).  This is based on my experience...YMMV, of course.

[gmac]

Guess I'm not getting it cold enough for long enough maybe.  I try to cold crash it but I put it in the cold room which is pretty cold right now but probably a few degrees warmer than what you are suggesting.  I'm using Knox gelatin because on another post I was told it was as good as buying gelatin from the LHBS.

[tschmidlin]

I would try what they suggest above, but if that doesn't work for you . . . I have never recommended this for anyone, but you might want to start filtering.  You're still going to want to get it super cold since it is easier to filter stuff out that way, but I think it will be the fastest way to get you where you want to be.

Either that or brew a couple of batches ahead so they have time to clear before you get to them

[a10t2]

If you need to use something, try Biofine Clear A3. It's like fairy dust.

Relatively new, though, so I don't know if it's available in home brewer-friendly sizes.

[gmac]

Either that or brew a couple of batches ahead so they have time to clear before you get to them

I wish!  I'm trying to get ahead.  I need more kegs though.  I find that part of the problem is I have enough fermenters for the beer to sit for a while but then I end up sucking up some yeast or something when I transfer to the keg.  I'm brewing twice a week at least now and still can't seem to get an inventory ahead. 

[jeffy]

Guess I'm not getting it cold enough for long enough maybe.  I try to cold crash it but I put it in the cold room which is pretty cold right now but probably a few degrees warmer than what you are suggesting.  I'm using Knox gelatin because on another post I was told it was as good as buying gelatin from the LHBS.

I used to use a whole packet in 5 gallons and it worked great, really fast.  Upon reading in this forum that half a packet or less is more appropriate and following those instructions, it takes longer.  I'm going back to a whole packet next time.

[a10t2]

I'm brewing twice a week at least now and still can't seem to get an inventory ahead.

I see larger batches in your future.

[dak0415]

If you need to use something, try Biofine Clear A3. It's like fairy dust.

Relatively new, though, so I don't know if it's available in home brewer-friendly sizes.

Maybe an enterprising young pro brewer could repackage the bulk pack to homebrew sizes (8 oz?)?

[tygo]

I used to use a whole packet in 5 gallons and it worked great, really fast.  Upon reading in this forum that half a packet or less is more appropriate and following those instructions, it takes longer.  I'm going back to a whole packet next time.

I think I'm one of the ones that posted that I used less.  I've generally only used maybe 1/2 - 1 teaspoon and it's worked well for me.  On the other hand, I'm rarely in a critical hurry to clear.  I've been able to achieve brilliantly clear beers without the use of finings so I haven't had the opportunity to really play around with the amounts much.  More probably does work better if you're trying to get the beer cleared in a shorter period of time.

[tschmidlin]

If you need to use something, try Biofine Clear A3. It's like fairy dust.

Relatively new, though, so I don't know if it's available in home brewer-friendly sizes.

Is this the same product?  They don't mention the A3 part.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/11772//Biofine_Clear_Clarifier_-_1oz

[a10t2]

Is this the same product?  They don't mention the A3 part.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/11772//Biofine_Clear_Clarifier_-_1oz

It sounds like it, but Kerry's naming convention is a little confusing. There's "Biofine Clear" and "Biofine Clear A3". The MoreBeer page has the product description copied from the A3, but no "A3" in the name. I'll probably call them to check.

[malzig]

I monitor my pH with a hand-held pH meter that is calibrated fairly frequently and I try to mash at about pH 5.4.

It wouldn't hurt to try a point or two lower.  That will promote protein precipitation, if that is your problem.
Do you get complete conversion of the starch in the mash?  If you have moderate to low efficiency you might be pulling starch out with your sparge water.

I'm brewing twice a week at least now and still can't seem to get an inventory ahead.

I see larger batches in your future.

...and liver disease if you're drinking 2 batches a week!

[narvin]

After cold crashing at 33 degrees, I've had great results with gelatin.  Other products may do better but I doubt you'd notice the differnce.  Try gelatin after crash cooling.