[nofunsally]

Hello,
I made sure to the correct gas in fitting on the keg by making sure it had notches.  However, I didn't pay attention when screwing on the "out" -- They both are notched (I was cleaning the four kegs I bought at once). I carbed the brew.  I tried to attached my quick disconnect for my beer line and it wouldn't go on.  This is when I noticed the double use of the notched fittings. 

Any one have suggestions on what to do next?

Thanks,

[bluesman]

I recommend replacing it with the correct fitting. What kind of keg do you have? Assuming it's a corny...here's a handy instruction.

Complements of our very own Mike Dixon.

http://www.dresselbrew.com/Keg_Info.htm

[nofunsally]

Thanks. That was my plan.  Can I do the switch-a-roo with the beer already carbed? Or do I need to something about the carbonation first?

Cheers,
Mike

[richardt]

Using the pressure release valve on the corny lid, you'll need to vent the headspace CO2 slowly over time to reduce foaming--the beer will still be carbed.  Once you stop hearing gas escape, you can vent and turn the pressure release valve ring 90 degrees to keep it "open", or vented.  Now you have no head space pressure trying to drive beer out the fluid out tube/post; i.e., if (atmospheric) pressure is the same on both sides of the beer, you get no flow.

Now switch out the fluid out post (which you currently have as a gas-in post) for the correct one (no gash in the post).  Leave the dip tube in. 

Close the pressure release valve and re-carb by turning on the CO2.

[nofunsally]

Thanks for the info.  I wasn't sure if it was possible to prevent a beer geyser.

Cheers,
Mike

[tom]

OR just use a gas-in QD on your serving line.

[jmcamerlengo]

OR just use a gas-in QD on your serving line.

Ive done this and switched it out after the keg kicked.

[oscarvan]

If it was me I would indeed bleed the head off the beer, and switch out the post. Don't forget to sanitize the new post.